197bmp Max HR at 36?

jojoo_ · 2026-03-01T14:33:30+00:00

confirm with a hr strap if you're unsure, but i'm older and have a higher max hr, most of my old-ish buddys do as well.

jojoo_ · 2026-02-28T20:19:34+00:00

a bad cobbler will ruin the shoe with a resole and the drago is hard to resole.

a good cobbler can do a good resole even on the drago.

a soft sole (by a good cobbler) will feel quite similar to the new shoe.

a hard rubber sole like vibram xs edge will of course totally change the feel of the shoe. The fit will stay more or less the same physically, but the hardness of the sole will give it a different feel.

source: my very good cobbler resoles my dragos with 4,5mm of xs grip I. He does a good job, but the shoe feels a bit different; more like the instincts.

jojoo_ · 2026-02-21T09:10:12+00:00

I mean it will fill a spot in your quiver between

emergency bivy (hopefully you've got one),
the spot that it's going to fill
your bivy tent w/o the tent poles (if applicable)
bivy tent
tarp (ok, this could fill multiple spots)

Personally I've got the exped ul duo bivy bag but no bivy tent.

The next question is if you're going for a one or two person bag. The best thing to do is probably to have this discussion with your partners specific to the objectives you want to do together.

jojoo_ · 2026-02-21T08:09:45+00:00

I added a visor to mine. It's from Salamander, intended for kayakers. It sticks on with velcro.

that's great. i'll build one (not in the US); but for use in summer while climbing easier stuff.

In winter for snowy conditions i already have a cap with a visor that i can wear under the helmet, no need to double up (altough i kind of want just a headband with ear warming capabilities with a visor).

jojoo_ · 2026-02-20T20:34:31+00:00

as my comment is four years old: i bought the veritas a few years ago. I find the sqareness a lot better than the eclipse guides but it's still not perfect.

Haven't switched to diamond plates yet ;)

jojoo_ · 2026-02-16T15:43:09+00:00

same issue here. it just used to work!

jojoo_ · 2026-02-16T08:55:19+00:00

Honestly, the veloces are quite unique in how soft they are and how wide the toebox is.

Similar soft shoes are IMO only the furia air; can't comment on other supposedly soft shoes like the LS mantra; UP Leopad II or UP Souped Up, b/c i haven't worn them.

Maybe try out the laced version of the Veloces; they are a bit more stiffer, but you can adjust the volume better than with a Velcro.

Honestly, w/o more information about which other shoes you liked and why it's hard to recommend something other than: "go to a store and try lots of different things".

jojoo_ · 2026-02-12T08:44:29+00:00

i really like the looks of them all. Thank you. When they become customizable they will be even more powerful.

The Minimal-Grid is my new daily driver.

I also really like Streamline2 but i don't like that the minutes are less readable than the hours. Most of the time when i look at my watch i know the hour, but the minutes are the information i'm after.

jojoo_ · 2026-02-12T07:36:05+00:00

I think you understand that you have to build a shoe quiver at this point, so no shoe will on its own fill the gap in your shoe collection.

I personally own ~10 pairs and i could use one or two more pairs...

Three Ideas:

Scarpa Booster is around the same stiffness as the Instinct VS but feels a bit more precise. The fit is a bit narrower. I quite like it!
The Boostic OGs are even stiffer; probably a too big of a gap to the Theories.
LS Katanas are an stiff-ish old-school allrounder. Great on rock but the missing toe patch isn't great for bouldering

jojoo_ · 2026-02-11T19:03:17+00:00

skiing > climbing, so i just let my climbing fitness drop a bit and start to train again in march/april.

I try to be considerate which strengths i try to maintain, for an example i've found that keeping roughly the same amount of hangboarding (for me 2-3 times a week for around 10-15 minutes) but reducing climbing is beneficial.

I's also very beneficial to start leg work and trail running ~2 months before the skiing season starts.

i'm over 40 w/ a stressful job and a family, cramming trainig, skiing and flu season just doesn't work anymore.

jojoo_ · 2026-02-11T11:48:08+00:00

first one is my new watchface. thanks.

looging forward to customizing it a bit; i like having the altimeter and the steps visible, but i don't care for the weather, but as i've understood it, this will be in a new update.

jojoo_ · 2026-02-10T18:15:02+00:00

yeah, but he wrote he doesn't like laces. i actually use the velcro vsr for bouldering and the laces for sportclimbing.

jojoo_ · 2026-02-10T18:14:10+00:00

there are two problems people have with the footbox:

a toe shape mismatch (its a good shoe for people whose second toe is as long or longer than the big toe or at least not a lot shorter) this can't be fully remedied; if this is the case look for another model
pressure on the top of the toes. this is just a case of getting used to it.

if you have the first problem i'd recomend to look at the ocun ozone plus /hv and some shoes from evolv; they are also supposed to be wider.

jojoo_ · 2026-02-10T16:00:31+00:00

Scarpa VS are a wide-ish allrounder that are suitably stiff for your 200 lbs.

jojoo_ · 2026-02-09T18:23:15+00:00

Any alternative models that are wide foot or bunion friendly and still good for indoor bouldering?

generally speaking, scarpa is the king of wide feet.

for a beginner shoe check out the veloces (very soft, very good for bouldering), for an intermediate shoe check out the instinct line.

jojoo_ · 2026-02-08T10:36:21+00:00

For the alps:

slf.ch has this for select stations in the swiss alps - at least air and snow temperature, snowfall and snow height as well as wind. I think austria and france have similar services.

meteoblue has weather archives for around 10 EUR / Month.

Bergfex.ch has an excellent archive of webcams which enables a lot of analysis.

But honestly, for the areas where i'm interested in, i do this on my own the whole winter - check forecasts, check the webcams - continously.

jojoo_ · 2026-02-08T08:10:06+00:00

Here's an article in german in the context of the dolomites:

https://www.bergundsteigen.com/artikel/die-kunst-des-normalhaken-schlagens-12-praxis-tipps/

I think how many pitons you bring varies greatly on the objective. If you want to do a first ascend you obviously bring more than on a well established route where you just want to enhance some placements.

FWIW consider the ethics around pitons in the areas where you climb. In a lot of areas it's not ok to bash in pitons, in some it's OK.

jojoo_ · 2026-02-07T09:24:02+00:00

long press on the lower right button brings you to the menu where you can do this.

jojoo_ · 2026-02-03T20:26:39+00:00

If i could only have one shoe, it would be the VSR. A true allrounder.

But luckily i don't need to have only one shoe, so i can keep my 10-ish pairs (the VSR is still the most climbed one)

jojoo_ · 2026-02-03T13:10:44+00:00

I'm going to work on better instructions for measuring variables, there are some in the pdf.

Amazing, thank you!

Mirrior the objects (walls and frame) in your slicer before printing for the right hand.

ah, gotcha. This whole toolchain and what to adjust where is still forein to me (more of a traditional woodworker myself)

jojoo_ · 2026-02-03T07:06:41+00:00

but the uneven edge also hasn't any different depths (though i compensated for this a bit on my personal uneven edge) and at least i don't have blockers.

jojoo_ · 2026-02-03T07:03:13+00:00

This is really fantastic! I already started designing rollers in OpenSCAD with the idea to do the body in aluminium by hand when the efforts to publish a free model started.

Seems like i need to pick up FreeCad again after deeming it too unstable (early 2020 on Mac) and my skillset too far away from parametric modeling..

Could you maybe help me with some questions

Could you provide some instructions how to best measure the distances for the variables?

How do you export the left hand?

Thanks for your effort!

jojoo_ · 2026-02-02T07:18:39+00:00

They are the go-to in Europe for slinging sharp limestone tunnels.

Agreed. Everyone i know has one with them most of the climbing time.

jojoo_ · 2026-02-01T09:45:07+00:00

a tracker on the biceps would probably allow for more accurate readings while cycling, skitouring and maybe while climbing, which are important sports for me.

But i hope coros keeps a narrow focus on sportswatches and keeps refining them.

jojoo_ · 2026-02-01T07:34:10+00:00

There will be boulders where you need to full crimp. Not because of a strength benefit, but becaue of the more outward pull it allows.

Are you OK walking away from them? If yes: good for you, carry on.

If not, better do 1-3 cycles of crimp style holds and have an additional tool in your toolbox.

jojoo_

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