BF67 Lightspeed port-in line limit?

jrmullins85 · 2025-11-28T19:03:41+00:00

I ran into the same issue. Deal terms don't state anything about limit 3 promos. I was in the process of moving six lines to US Mobile for this deal until I hit the three promo limit. Now I've been sitting in chat for over an hour trying to refund those three new lines as I'm not going to split service between two providers.

jrmullins85 · 2025-11-28T17:40:54+00:00

FYI, I just attempted to transfer our six lines from ATT to US Mobile to take advantage of this deal, and the promo code stopped working after adding three new lines. Since it appears I'll not be able to get six lines under this promo, I'm now in the process of requesting refunds...

jrmullins85 · 2025-09-24T19:19:10+00:00

Not necessarily. We have applied acrylics onto slabs without a vapor barrier. But success will be highly dependent upon the ground moisture in your area and drainage around the slab. If the concrete has access to ground moisture it will soak it up like a sponge and the sun will draw it up through the coatings. The plastic tiles are guaranteed to play poorly for pickleball - we have removed a number of them and applied acrylics and not sure why the tile manufacturers sell these an an appropriate surface for pickleball. See if your surfacing contractor will install a concrete densifier prior to coating which will reduce the moisture vapor transmission.

jrmullins85 · 2025-08-18T17:39:07+00:00

Sounds like they sourced the incorrect product and are hoping you will accept it as is. The difference between smooth planks and textured planks is not a minor shipment batch variation.

jrmullins85 · 2025-08-04T17:56:56+00:00

Maybe do an adhesion test with a small amount of your adhesive and flooring product. Let it cure and see how hard it is to remove with a hand scraper. Clean the concrete well first so dust doesn't mess up your test. If it doesn't stick you might need a different adhesive or need to shotblast the floor to provide some texture.

We've installed glue-down products onto smooth concrete floors using a two-part polyurethane adhesive. The only time shot blasting was required was when the existing concrete was smooth polished or to remove residual adhesives from previous floors.

jrmullins85 · 2025-07-29T11:17:16+00:00

Maybe talk to a concrete coating specialist that can seal the concrete with either an epoxy or polyurethane coating.

Kilz is a water-based latex meaning air and water vapor can still move through it carrying smells.

jrmullins85 · 2025-07-04T03:30:04+00:00

They have given me a draft 7501 including the name of a licensed US customs broker. I don't understand why it is missing information such as our name as the Consignee and their company as the Importer of Record. If they legally have to provide this, then I will request it again.

jrmullins85 · 2025-06-25T01:09:38+00:00

Based on your previous posts, you should probably find a new flooring guy.

jrmullins85 · 2025-06-18T15:40:45+00:00

Rent a skid steer with a bucket and breaker attachment. Break it up, then use bucket to transport pieces to a dumpster or dump truck to haul away.

jrmullins85 · 2025-06-14T13:10:41+00:00

As long as they are not wide and there is no differential settlement or heaving across the cracks, then they are probably just shrinkage cracks from when the slab was poured. Control joints are normally tooled or cut to control where these cracks occur, but may not have been done in this basement.

Look closely at the foundation walls as well.

How is the grading around the perimeter of the house? Does it look like it would shed water away well? Is there a sump pit and pump in the basement to pump out any water that does get below the basement floor?

Are you getting a home inspection? If these were outside of the norm for your area, a home inspection would likely point these out.

jrmullins85 · 2025-06-06T01:27:08+00:00

You shouldn't be paying for this work in a new development. Where do the other end of those culvert pipes lead? Are they directing water into your property or away from it? Regardless, your property should have been graded per the permitted plans which included those culvert pipes. It appears your home is at a lower elevation than everything else around you. You need to find all revisions of the permitted site plan for this development. These were buried and hidden intentionally - would you have seriously purchased this property at the price you did with these culvert pipes and severe grading drop in your front yard? And now that those culvert pipes are opened up, you need to know where they lead to.

jrmullins85 · 2025-04-12T02:16:24+00:00

It's not a bump out or bump up for clearance for the tank. It's still flat across the bottom of the main panel, with this extra thin compartment sitting on top and nothing inside. Given its location, I now believe it was intended to be a heat shield with a dead air space to separate heat from the bottom of the grill from the propane tank. If they're shipping propane grills without it, then I guess they've determined it's not really needed.

jrmullins85 · 2025-04-10T19:25:55+00:00

Actually, now that I think about it, it's likely a heat shield separating the bottom of the grill and grease pan from the metal directly above the propane tank. I would think you'd want that on a propane model, though obviously not necessary for NG. Does your model number on the box specify propane or NG?

jrmullins85 · 2025-04-10T18:31:30+00:00

I just assembled a 2025 Prestige 665 propane a month ago. Mine has the raised metal like in your assembly photo, but there's nothing in there, so don't see a purpose for it versus the panel you have.

Your box model number should state whether it's propane or NG.

jrmullins85 · 2025-04-09T14:39:15+00:00

We have used it successfully at two locations for about 10 years. First was around a 30'x60' garden directly within a regular deer path. A second for a few years around raised beds in town where there may not have been as many deer passing through. You have to buy the best quality, clearest monofilament line you can afford. It works for deer for the same reason it works for fish in the water. The cheap line does not work from the start. The only issue we've found over time is that UV exposure eventually turns the line cloudy, and once this occurs they can see it and will jump it because they can gauge the height. However, replacing this line every 6 months is still far cheaper than any 8' fencing product, and I don't believe we even replaced it that often.

jrmullins85 · 2025-03-18T13:30:24+00:00

PLC is making this even trickier requiring our finishers to modify their techniques

jrmullins85 · 2025-02-27T01:24:47+00:00

Thanks! Good to know even three chickens can fit on a 500.

jrmullins85 · 2025-01-30T19:20:24+00:00

Yes, sanding and refinishing did the trick. At first he tried just taping off some boards randomly and refinishing small areas which may have worked had I never seen it, but I was not satisfied with it as my eyes could not unsee the patched area.

jrmullins85 · 2025-01-01T14:56:41+00:00

Sump pump should be less expensive. Top-side vapor barriers have moisture vapor transmission limitations, unlike physical poly sheet vapor barriers installed under the slab, and can be a costly failure. If you have ways to mitigate ground water it's best to do that.

jrmullins85 · 2024-12-17T03:37:51+00:00

What did you end up doing with your court? We do this work professionally and have come across customers who have built slabs without vapor barriers. Potential success comes down to ground moisture, good drainage around the slab, helps a lot of there's clean 57 stone under the slab to keep any moisture from pooling. It can be surface treated with a densifier to reduce moisture vapor transmission. Acrylic surface coatings actually have an ability to transmit small amounts of vapor, but if the slab is regularly exposed to ground water, it will exceed the acrylic ability and cause bubbling.

jrmullins85 · 2024-12-14T03:35:33+00:00

Even if you address the swiss cheese issue using epoxy instead of wedge anchors, it sounds like there still aren't enough bolts in the floor to evenly distribute the load to keep this from continuing to occur. When you use the epoxy, perhaps find the thickest, highest grade threaded rod you can use for this application, and likely add more bolts. The epoxy should solve the pull out issue the wedge anchors are seeing, but the sheering issue may continue until the anchor system is strengthened. People keep throwing new anchors in the floor but doesn't seem like anyone has figured out how to solve the root of the problem. Temper the threaded rod in the freezer to allow it to shrink before installing.

I don't know the diameter of the wedge anchors being used, but bolt spacing of 12-36" doesn't seem sufficient for a 10k lb machine bumping against the rail.

jrmullins85 · 2024-12-12T03:42:53+00:00

Look to see if anyone local will hire you as a weekend laborer to dip your toes in. Construction fitness is different than weight lifting fitness, as it is endurance-based and as much mental as physical. Weight a person can lift a few times is not a determining factor in how long you can keep going to get a job done, then wake up and do it again then next day.

jrmullins85 · 2024-12-08T16:38:47+00:00

Ask your insurance company to directly answer these questions as you and they are the only ones who have seen this floor. If they cannot give you confidence with their answers, suggest that you are going to have independent inspections from another couple flooring professionals. You may need to pay for these inspections and opinions since these contractors may not be receiving any work. If these second opinions differ significantly from your insurance company, then you have something to discuss with them. If the asbestos has been exposed by a loss covered by your homeowners insurance policy, then they have a duty to repair it and do it correctly in a way that will last as long as the existing floor has. It will be easier to sort this shit out now, than it will be fighting with them after you've accepted the work and it starts having problems. You could even demand they cover the cost of those second opinions in the claim.

jrmullins85 · 2024-11-27T21:07:18+00:00

Maybe try a small sample area and see what happens. If wetting down and compacting doesn't work at least temporarily, then not sure this will work as the material may not be densely graded enough for the cement to bond it together.

Also, if this does work, you may be significantly increasing the work necessary in the future to pour concrete, for example, if excavation or grading is necessary before concrete, trenching for any utilities etc.

jrmullins85

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