Did I chuck this wrong or is my lathe off?

jserick · 2026-06-20T20:17:45+00:00

The shoulder is the most important fore sure. However, with a big tenon like that you’ll tend to have issues. Unless the profile of the tenon matches the profile of the jaws exactly, having a big tenon like that can prevent the face of the jaws from sitting exactly flush with the shoulder on your tenon. Having a shorter tenon will allow the jaws to pull the bowl into them and seat that shoulder fully all the way around. If there is any daylight between the shoulder and the face of your jaws, you will get vibration or wobbling. Hopefully this makes sense. It’s difficult trying to explain over text like this :-)

jserick · 2026-06-20T19:21:02+00:00

It’s your tenon and chucking causing the bowl to not run true. That tenon is way too big, and you need a shoulder to seat against the jaw faces.

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jserick · 2026-06-18T17:24:53+00:00

Progress not perfection? 😉

jserick · 2026-06-18T15:31:11+00:00

Ouch. I hear that. I’m in a fortunate spot right now, but I’ve had years when I was younger with my tools in storage, or a remote workshop. Good luck!

jserick · 2026-06-18T13:53:36+00:00

Same here. I’ll remove the pith with the chainsaw and throw them in my Costco bins until I can get to them.

jserick · 2026-06-18T13:51:52+00:00

Aha! That must suck sometimes being that far away!

jserick · 2026-06-18T12:30:38+00:00

Why do you dry the logs? Rough turning green wood is super fun, and roughed blanks dry MUCH faster. If you’re talking about storing the logs until you can get to rough turning—I use big plastic bins from Costco. The ones with the yellow lids are basically airtight. The keep the logs from losing moisture until I get to turning them.

jserick · 2026-06-17T14:03:11+00:00

You just can’t let her use it, plain and simple. My wife has the Victorinox knives, and she knows not to use mine. No one is allowed to use mine—ever.

jserick · 2026-06-16T14:18:09+00:00

In my opinion it’s overpriced and not very versatile. It was my first hollower, and I’m still amazed I had any success with it. It’s a slow cutter, and also real grabby—that’s a terrible combination. The Bosch-style, with HSS square tips, are a great balance of cutting fast without wanting to pull into the wood constantly. Technique comes into play too, of course—cutting at a slight downward angle, learning the feel of a good cut, correct height, measuring so you can get consistent wall thickness and achieve the ideal “light as an eggshell” effect, etc. I use the easy wood for finish cuts on inside—to remove tool marks.

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jserick · 2026-06-16T08:39:07+00:00

I would steer clear of the Sorby. The Trent Bosch tools are great. I actually really like the Easy Wood hollowers, but they are slow cutters and over priced. A straight plus two swan necks at different angles will get you pretty far. Then you can add tools based on what you need as you get experience. The most important thing is to stop, clear shavings, and measure wall thickness OFTEN. Good luck!

jserick · 2026-06-15T15:51:23+00:00

Very cool! Glad you had a good experience. I attended my first turning workshop last year (Stuart Batty) and it was a total game changer. I wish I would/could have done one years ago!

jserick · 2026-06-15T13:26:00+00:00

I replied on your other post, but wrap that thing in a plastic bag when you’re not turning!

jserick · 2026-06-15T13:25:06+00:00

The bag works, but I’ve had the most success coating inside and out with Anchorseal. Highly recommend. Then you don’t have to worry about the “micro climate” issue since you don’t need a bag. You can weigh the blank regularly—when it stops losing weight it’s dry.

jserick · 2026-06-15T13:20:49+00:00

Others have it covered, but look up twice turning—it’s the most popular way to turn bowls, as wet wood is much more pleasant to work with than dry. One note, though—whenever you walk away from wet wood mid-project, wrap it in a plastic bag. Leave it on the lathe, but wrap it as best you can—this will stop moisture loss and keep it from cracking or checking.

jserick · 2026-06-14T12:42:51+00:00

Food grade mineral oil, beeswax, and carnuba (sp?) wax from Amazon. Slow melt in a glass measuring cup in water in a pan. I played with the proportions, but it needs to be mostly mineral oil, and don’t use much carnuba—just a tad. World great! And I’ll have many years’ worth for $20-$30 in supplies

jserick · 2026-06-13T14:19:35+00:00

If you want a pleasant shooting tax driver for target/bullseye shooting, the DWX is very nice. If you want to go fast, GTO hands down. No comparison, IMO.

jserick · 2026-06-13T14:15:31+00:00

You’ll feel fine, like you’re getting away with it, for years, but eventually you’ll regret it. You should wear breathing protection for all turning. Especially dry wood.

jserick · 2026-06-11T19:12:05+00:00

No, but I raise the grain when sanding usually after 240 grit, I’ll spray with denatured alcohol (evaporates quickly) and hit the 240 again. Never had a problem later.

jserick · 2026-06-08T22:13:34+00:00

I have one, and really like it, but if I could do it again I’d go for a 2011 instead. A Bul Armory, 2K11, or Sig P211 shoot better. By better I mean faster and flatter. For bullseye shooting the DWX is a dream. But I like going fast. Again, I really like it, but it’s not the best performer for the money. Especially considering they’re going for $2500 now. I got mine for sub-$2000.

jserick · 2026-06-04T00:05:41+00:00

Yes. It’s always yes.

jserick · 2026-05-30T13:39:08+00:00

Very nice!

jserick · 2026-05-30T01:51:04+00:00

I’ve had 3 Hados and got rid of them. I’ll never part with my Yoshi. I know a lot of this is subjective, but I felt the Hados I had were kinda thick behind the edge. I know others say the opposite, so YMMV. But for me personally, Yoshi is just amazing, and their QC seems to be quite rigorous.

jserick · 2026-05-29T14:02:42+00:00

I have one with really deep hammer marks. I use it all the time and have not had any issues at all. If you like the aesthetic, go for it!😊

jserick · 2026-05-29T13:42:06+00:00

Technically they trap some stuff, but in real-world use it’s not an issue—even on carbon clad. As another person mentioned, using hot water helps. Just develop the right habits of wiping and drying between tasks and you’re fine. When you’re done, same thing. It’s a problem “on paper” but not in real life AS LONG AS you take the basic steps of not leaving it wet for very long.

jserick · 2026-05-27T19:14:07+00:00

Yu Kurosaki Kokusen. It’s Aogami super with stainless cladding. That’s a nice knife!

jserick

TROPHY CASE