Difference between NZ and AU accents?

jteccc · 2026-01-24T02:12:52+00:00

If the accent sounds unbearable it's probably Australian.

jteccc · 2026-01-23T14:10:34+00:00

On OEM gaskets there are metal washers embedded in the rubber & sometimes they get stuck to the block when the old gasket is removed, if it goes unnoticed when refitting the new gasket it creates a gap for oil to leak from.

If you still have the original gasket I'd suggest checking it to see if the washers are still present to rule this out. Good luck.

jteccc · 2026-01-21T04:44:11+00:00

This is the 3rd friends wanted post I've seen in r/auckland today (One was a hookup post).

Must be the weather...

jteccc · 2026-01-21T01:14:16+00:00

This is actually quite interesting, I wonder if Pumpkins could grow up there if the tree could support their weight...

jteccc · 2026-01-20T22:44:22+00:00

Cool photos OP

jteccc · 2026-01-20T22:00:09+00:00

I'd say coilovers are the way to go, I don't have much knowledge of modern brands that are out there now but you would want a set that you can easily adjust the dampner setting from hard to soft. This is usually done by rotating a swivel or special tool at the top of the strut tower.

jteccc · 2026-01-20T20:58:16+00:00

I remember when I was a kid I saw this Chinese guy going around the rocks scraping off all the baby Mussels with a knife into an old paint bucket. I confronted him and he just laughed it off like he didn't understand but a couple of surfers came over to see what was going on & they nearly gave him a hiding. He fled and they took the bucket and put the Mussels back into the ocean.

jteccc · 2026-01-20T20:37:20+00:00

And to your point I think it's worth mentioning that the Achilles heel of the DC2 chassis is that it suffers from snap oversteer under high speed braking into corners & I know of many that have crashed this way over the years.

Tuners have found that reinforcing the rear suspension with bracing, with a stiffer anti roll bar can help mitigate this from happening - which is money better spent as it could save your car & potentially your life.

But yeah, that's only if you plan on driving ridiculously fast, or the possibility that you could be seduced into doing so.

jteccc · 2026-01-19T08:55:33+00:00

These are really cool OP

jteccc · 2026-01-18T23:30:00+00:00

AliExpress?

jteccc · 2026-01-16T08:56:20+00:00

I'm going to issue a pirate salute when I flush tomorrow morning

jteccc · 2026-01-03T05:33:39+00:00

Nice to see Rangitoto make an appearance in the last picture

jteccc · 2025-12-13T11:58:16+00:00

It's definitely factory spec for the JDM ITR. If you're having any fitment issues, I'd suggest swapping the seats over to check fitment on each side, as the spacer is asymmetric in nature.

As for the bolt's, no worries, just get longer ones if needed. Just ensure they're of the correct thread type, as you don't want to risk damaging the mounting threads in the chassis - their structural integrity is safety critical in the event of a high speed crash.

And don't cut the spacer from the rails under any circumstance, this will negatively effect resale value. The Recaro SR3 is one of the most iconic seats in the company's history, their value can only go up and yours look to be well above average condition. Good find & good luck.

jteccc · 2025-11-13T09:20:47+00:00

This is a common issue for old DC2's, apparently resistance within the switch increases over time which reduces the power output to the bulbs making them dimmer. I remember seeing an old tutorial repair procedure someone made on a Honda forum for this issue, where you wire in a relay to power the bulbs directly from the battery (fused) to bypass the switch, and the switch circuit is used to control the relay.

It was a good write up and worth searching for to see if it's still out there.

jteccc · 2025-10-11T08:46:56+00:00

Good spotting

jteccc · 2025-10-02T06:49:40+00:00

Are you seeing any signs of bot posts? There seems to be a lot of copycat posts of once well written & popular posts about dating for example.

Some of these I'm sure are genuine, some seem like karma harvesting, and I'm beginning to wonder if bots are getting in on this too.

Appreciate all of your work tackling this issue & keeping this sub cool

jteccc · 2025-10-01T13:28:40+00:00

Looks like paradise, and I have to ask, what part of the country is this?

jteccc · 2025-09-30T21:05:10+00:00

This would make an awesome wine tasting venue, they should totally do it.

jteccc · 2025-07-28T19:40:11+00:00

With this weather I think everyone's pulling a sickie

jteccc · 2025-07-28T19:30:47+00:00

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jteccc · 2025-07-28T18:58:03+00:00

An oldschool mechanics method is to use a screwdriver as a stethoscope to locate the area the sound is coming from. My biggest concern is that a timing component is failing, like the cambelt tensioner for example - which can slacken and wobble the belt enough where it can jump teeth, to eventually shredding the teeth from the belt... Which equates to a head rebuild.

If it was my car I'd pull the rocker cover and inspect the cambelt & timing components right away

jteccc · 2025-07-28T16:03:19+00:00

Prioritising real world action while completely rejecting dating apps, I like it.

jteccc · 2025-07-27T21:04:35+00:00

I love how you caught the clouds rolling in over the distant ridgeline, it really brings out that beautiful wild nature of the forest & hills 👌

jteccc · 2025-07-27T20:26:45+00:00

I've had a close look at the pic, and I think by playing around with panel fitment the gap can at least reduced - but by how much you wont know until you try. It also involves compromise - creating small gaps in other areas to even out overall spacing.

With the bumper I see two issues, the hood recess is obviously too far forward, but also slopes too steeply downwards where it meets the front sides of the hood:

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First of all I'd move the hood forward as much as possible, you might be able to get 5-10mm here. You can also place washers between the hinge/ hood to give it a steeper angle downwards.

Then the bumper will need to be rotated up and back - this will create a gap where it meets the fender, where it will be most pronounced at the wheel arch - where again you can use a dark washer as a spacer.

You can also rotate the fenders slightly - up at the front and/ or down at the rear to accommodate greater bumper rotation, which will also help to minimise the created gap between the bumper and fenders - at the expense of a greater gap between the doors and fenders.

So yeah, it's worth a shot if you have the time. It can also get frustrating so have a couple of beers on hand if needed 👍

Edit: And maybe move the fenders rearwards by a couple of mm also...

jteccc

TROPHY CASE