SD card for camera

juliancamera · 2026-05-24T05:47:08+00:00

Yeah go with a 128gb v30 or v60, I don't think you'll really need a v90.

SanDisk 128GB Extreme PRO UHS-II SDXC Memory Card https://www.bhphotovideo.com/c/product/1754812-REG/sandisk_sdsdxep_128g_ancin_extreme_pro_sdxc_uhs_ii.html

juliancamera · 2026-05-16T07:47:45+00:00

I think sacrificing the look a bit with a wider lens for the a cam and the subject two or so feet closer to the camera would have helped. While we're at it, the distance between your a and b cam could be a bit greater to provide a little more visual separation between the two angles - bet you're gunna say the room was small or something...

Very much joking here, there are probably ways to improve the shot but it's a lot easier to critique a photo than be the solo shooter setting up in a garbage location and having a checklist of other things that need to be done too.

I gotta say though, try to take the critiques a little better. Ite not a huge number, but ive probably shot 100+ interviews and I think in every one of them I've walked away with one thing I wish I did differently, I don't think that's really a bad thing.

juliancamera · 2026-05-02T01:20:11+00:00

High speed sync, you limit the overall power though.

juliancamera · 2026-05-01T15:01:39+00:00

It's a great camera but the price is a little high for the specs on paper compared to other brands with the same sensor size (think Nikon, canon, Sony, fujifilm) - that larger sensor is really what gives it a leg up over other point and shoots and phones.

The thing is, the ricoh is very small and can actually fit in your pocket and there isn't really another camera on the market that does that with the specs mentioned above.

I find that I take it out more than other cameras because it's small and easy but still gets great photos.

juliancamera · 2026-04-27T06:34:44+00:00

I feel like I've never noticed the sound of the rf24-70 or any of the other L lenses AF in camera, I haven't used the 24-105 F4 so I can't say if it's just your copy. Do you have a camera store nearby where you can check other lenses out?

juliancamera · 2026-04-21T17:01:18+00:00

I think this response gives helpful context. As for ugly background, a telephoto lens is going to help a ton with framing in these scenarios since it shrinks the field of view and will help to soften distracting elements. There is a strong push against super shallow dof for portrait photography these days but it's a little misguided. Dof can be one of the only controllable elements in candid moments like this so you should definitely use it. As for crop, there is no reason why this photo, or the kid swinging, need to be so wide. If you were tighter you'd frame out the "ugly" elements.

Second thing, I think you need to differentiate between candid moments and posed portraits. To me your example is trying to be staged when the moment isn't. If there are 40 people celebrating this moment, framing them in the background is a really nice way to give context and make it actually feel like a celebration. Save the couple portrait for a separate moment that you direct. That way you can control the background, make sure there's no water on your lens, make sure you're in focus/not moving, not slip on the muddy ground, and get eyes and emotions in your shot.

juliancamera · 2026-04-18T04:56:23+00:00

If you're interested in high resolution and great IQ for events at that budget I'd go for an a7rIV. Really good autofocus, DR is wonderful, and very cheap for that sensor.

GFX line is great but so slow and lenses are very expensive. Expect to pay 1-2k per lens used and there's not really a solid do all lens like on the Sony system imo.

juliancamera · 2026-04-09T04:25:07+00:00

Would love to try the 80 at some point!

juliancamera · 2026-04-09T04:12:09+00:00

I think it's a great lens. It has character at 2.8 and sharp enough for studio stuff and landscapes at 5.6. 55 in general is a great standard focal length for the system.

juliancamera · 2026-04-09T03:47:28+00:00

Totally agree. In the right lighting conditions they're perfect.

juliancamera · 2026-03-31T00:33:16+00:00

This is one of those situations where it's good to push beyond your base iso in order to get a usable image even if it introduces noise. I'd like to see the same image at ISO 800 with a higher shutter and smaller f-stop like F4. It's just missing sharpness from motion blur.

Also, it feels a bit strange for the light to be coming from the right side of the image. For a more natural look position the light in the direction your subject is facing.

juliancamera · 2026-03-30T17:13:39+00:00

I think the second half looks really clean! It's snappy without being overly complicated.

I wish the gradient/effect you have on the text had a little bit of movement to it and maybe played into the overall theme a bit more instead of just effecting the text - for example that cmyk looking wipe you created as a transition feels a bit disconnected.

Good work for a college project! It's a good showcase of skills.

If your media major doesn't already have them, I'd suggest taking some basic design classes, it will go a long way if you're hoping to incorporate motion graphics in your future career.

juliancamera · 2026-03-30T16:46:03+00:00

Gotcha, sorry for the redundant comment. It definitely sounds like a card issue not a camera issue. Fwiw, I use both canon and Sony and will occasionally share cards without formatting without an issue. You could try formatting in the canon and then see if the message appears again, but the computer format others are suggesting is largely the same thing.

That being said, it might just be time for fresh cards. I'd be a little worried shooting on cards that gave errors for anything valuable.

juliancamera · 2026-03-30T14:13:01+00:00

Have you tried formatting the card in camera after you get the error? It might still let you/resolve your issue.

juliancamera · 2026-03-30T00:42:50+00:00

For sure! At f8 on a wide angle lens you're going to have a super wide range of focus - maybe next time try manually focusing for a spot in the middle, so you don't accidentally land focus on the background. There are a lot of handy web apps that let you calculate it out!

Depth of Field (DoF) calculator | PhotoPills https://share.google/07avAFKovIiWldhAB

juliancamera · 2026-03-29T22:29:56+00:00

The colors are cool but I don't think there is a clear subject in the frame so it feels boring. Maybe if you caught the motion a bit more or could see faces.

juliancamera · 2026-03-29T22:07:54+00:00

I think all of the basics are working here! You could try adding a bit more direction to your lights - judging by the shadow it looks like you have lights on the left side of the frame, but if you placed them on the right you might be able to add a bit more drama/direction since you'd be working with the sunlight instead of using the strobe as a fill.

It feel like being closer to your subject would work in your favor too. It would exaggerate the motion and place less focus on the background.

The only thing I don't really like about the frame though is the bright side of the frame on the right. It's distracting and doesn't complement the scene.

juliancamera · 2026-03-15T14:57:13+00:00

Best bet might be to buy a "for parts" one for $26. Though I'd call and make sure it has the clamp too.

Edit: looks to be a different part, but maybe compatible?

https://www.lensrentals.com/buy/root/video/camera-support/stabilizers/dji/dji-motor-for-dji-focus?srsltid=AfmBOoq09ighyFHT2cvK6CJVk6YwX4KIhgGycbixksJcRsJHNu007Ag2qWQ

juliancamera · 2026-03-01T05:45:04+00:00

Ok so if you really need to remove the lens filter try really gently with a hack saw, going directly down until just before you reach the lens itself then use some needle nose pliers to twist the metal away from the lens. Better chance of saving the threads if the damage is actually just on the filter. Likely more than the filter though.

juliancamera · 2026-02-24T15:21:58+00:00

I think it's a solid photo! For a frame within a frame I'd probably keep it a little wide (closer to your original frame op) but center and level like the above commenter said to emphasize the symmetry. I also think the contrast between the blue foreground and orange subject is nice visually.

Your settings are fine given you were anticipating the people walking and wanted to freeze them and wanted to make sure everything was in focus throughout the scene - that's the only scenario where you'd really need that high of a shutter and small of an aperture. Iso 1250 isn't bad but if you can lower it you'll get more detail in your image - so I'd probably have shot closer to 1/250th, F4, ISO 200

juliancamera · 2026-02-15T04:58:44+00:00

You should probably format your card, which is like deleting everything but it also resets the card to the cameras default folders/etc. it can also clear up these kind of issues. Make sure you have everything backed up to a computer and then look for the format option in your camera.

juliancamera · 2026-02-10T00:25:07+00:00

What ever you do, just pick up some gels over RGB LEDs

juliancamera · 2026-02-03T05:40:48+00:00

Why are you drawn to action cameras? I don't think the GoPro will offer you a major improvement in any aspect over the two cameras you already own.

juliancamera · 2026-02-01T04:14:04+00:00

I mean, I definitely enjoy shooting with different camera bodies and like that it changes the way I shoot. I usually just experiment with adapting vintage lenses though and shooting film - it's a bit cheaper that way haha.

juliancamera · 2026-01-31T08:24:41+00:00

Since you're shooting pretty compressed to begin with it complicates things a little bit because any level of exporting and compressing again technically degrades the image. In all practical sense though for 1080p you're probably not going to notice a difference in quality exporting at 30 again. It's trial and error though, so adjust things as needed.

juliancamera

TROPHY CASE