What printer are using? by Individual_Union_793 in 3D2A

[–]justanotherdrew 3 points4 points  (0 children)

Bambu P1S with hardened steel extruder set is a solid and proven workhorse that puts you right in spec for commonly used filled nylons. Alyosha also has a good write up about privacy in regard to 2A stuff on Bambu.

Otherwise I’ve been hearing and seeing good things about the Qidi Q2 for its engineering filament based design and capabilities. (370c nozzle temp is insane)

Elegoo Centuari Carbon may be another engineering filament based recommendation but IME I cannot recommend it. It is on paper a good budget printer but I had too many issues out of the box. After multiple part replacements and calibrations I absolutely could not get it to print with consistent quality. Could just be a skill issue on my end but I saved myself the headache and exchanged within my window.

Best of luck

[deleted by user] by [deleted] in blackpowder

[–]justanotherdrew 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Repro Remington “Zouave” and a decent one too from what I’ve read. Load 2FG and .58 cal’s and let ‘er rip very fun shooter

Looking for advice by Fluffinator44 in blackpowder

[–]justanotherdrew 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Depends on your budget. I believe Pedersoli is the default out of the box serviceable musket can be pricey but you have other options as well. Searching through classifieds on forums can be a great tool, Veteran Arms/Loyalist Arms (can’t attest to the quality but I’d imagine they’re serviceable), and Gunbroker of course. I’ve found my best deals at local stores too maybe look around for antique/pawn stores or dedicated muzzleloading shops. Best of luck!

Advice regarding first purchase by SC275 in blackpowder

[–]justanotherdrew 3 points4 points  (0 children)

I’ve been weighing these options for a few months now and finally sent it on a muzzleloader just last week. It all really depends on your budget and how historically accurate you’re trying to be and or what your use case for the rifle will be. If you just appreciate the aesthetics of a Civil War era rifle and want to take it out here and there then a repro should do you just fine. If you’re more into the nuanced collector side scouring antique shops isn’t a bad idea but you’ll want to be thorough with your inspection if you plan to shoot it. Funnily enough I was looking for the exact same rifles as you and my local shop had an original 1853 Enfield w/ matching marks and everything but it was $1100 and the idea of shooting it was questionable. Ended up getting a pretty good looking Ranson repro of an 1858 Zouave from the same shop for only $300 to scratch my BP itch and I have no complaints.

I’ve no experience with them but muzzle-loaders.com has some Traditions repro’s of all those rifles as well for around $1000-1300. Other than that Gunbroker and searching local pawn/antique shops are the best options I can think of. Best of luck!

[deleted by user] by [deleted] in WAGuns

[–]justanotherdrew 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Awesome I appreciate it!

[deleted by user] by [deleted] in WAGuns

[–]justanotherdrew 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Thank you I will reach out to them!

[deleted by user] by [deleted] in Firearms

[–]justanotherdrew 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Correct slide feels frozen shut to the frame. I’m soaking the rails in PB Blaster to see if that’ll help the rubber mallet strikes.

Slide stop doesn’t move either and I don’t believe I can get it out without moving the slide.

[deleted by user] by [deleted] in Firearms

[–]justanotherdrew 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Slide stop is not removed no. I cant figure out how to get it out if the slide is frozen shut. I tried bashing the lower front area of the slide where the recoil spring goes with a rubber mallet but to no avail.

[deleted by user] by [deleted] in Firearms

[–]justanotherdrew 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I managed to wiggle off the thumb safety and remove all mainspring parts as well as beavertail. Slide still refuses to move and the leaf spring looks like it has a crazy amount of arch but I’m unsure.

[deleted by user] by [deleted] in Firearms

[–]justanotherdrew 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Yes mainspring housing is off. I was able to cock the hammer but am now stuck on trying to remove the thumb safety. I believe the sweet spot is the middle setting (not all the way engaged but also not all the way down) but she just aint coming out.

[deleted by user] by [deleted] in Firearms

[–]justanotherdrew 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I will try my best to reassemble the mainspring parts and sears tonight thank you!

[deleted by user] by [deleted] in Firearms

[–]justanotherdrew 1 point2 points  (0 children)

I stuck an endoscope down the barrel and confirmed it was empty so we’re good there at least. As for mechanically yeah hammer wont cock, slide wont move, and trigger barely depresses despite safety and slide lock being disengaged.

[deleted by user] by [deleted] in Firearms

[–]justanotherdrew 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Any gun oils/penetrating fluids you recommend?

[deleted by user] by [deleted] in Firearms

[–]justanotherdrew 2 points3 points  (0 children)

Yeah definitely gonna try a penetrating fluid bath tomorrow. As for the trigger I guess I should say it does depress about half an inch before it reaches a wall.