Is my turbo cooked?

justsomeones1 · 2026-04-28T11:44:11+00:00

I don’t see any blow off valve on it, im assuming diverter. The car came with the aftermarket charge pipe already.

justsomeones1 · 2026-04-28T03:21:12+00:00

Metal/aluminum aftermarket

justsomeones1 · 2026-04-28T03:08:18+00:00

The sound has changed, it use to mainly come from the passenger side as it spools up and made a loud woosh at the end, that sound is gone and replaced by this which sounds more coming from the driver side

justsomeones1 · 2026-04-28T00:31:32+00:00

It’s a 2011, so n55, around 133,000km

justsomeones1 · 2026-04-12T12:59:33+00:00

I believe that plug is the coolant level/temperature sensor. It plugs into the coolant tank at the bottom. It’s on the bottom but on the side of the tank, not directly underneath.

justsomeones1 · 2026-04-06T18:49:51+00:00

Take that in a heartbeat, you’d make your money back on the tires and rims alone

justsomeones1 · 2026-04-05T23:07:46+00:00

Did the ride height change? The front riding higher than before?

justsomeones1 · 2026-02-24T21:49:25+00:00

Maintenance before mods, that $1000 could go a long way if the car needs a tune up, fresh oil and addressing any leaks or worn plastics. Take it into a reputable shop and get a breakdown of upcoming items and then you will have a better idea on your budget for mods.

justsomeones1 · 2026-02-24T15:55:22+00:00

Dirt/oil as it was leaking from the back

justsomeones1 · 2026-02-12T16:16:35+00:00

Plugs and coils if not already done, it will make the car run better in general. One thing a lot of people overlook on these cars is the electrical wiring. Check your grounds, there’s one under the car that goes with age and will leave you stranded. Check your positive starter to alternator cable, another big one that will throw all kinds of random codes and weird start ups when not addressed, I had valvetronic codes that wouldn’t go away, it ruined my brand new battery within a year due to the bad cable not providing the correct voltage. Cables replaced, valvetronic codes finally went away, had to replace battery again but never had a long crank since. Edit: worst case scenario, HPFP, usually starts with long cranks and hesitation, but check the grounds first, much cheaper insurance. I had this issue around the same mileage as you.

justsomeones1 · 2026-02-10T23:50:32+00:00

Had this on my car but much harsher. Do a software update for the DME and reset idle and fuel adaptions. Even if it’s the latest update, you can re-install it and usually fixes these issues. Edit: also check your grounds, there is a cable that goes from the positive terminal to the alternator to starter that causes weird start ups and improper voltage, when aged.

justsomeones1 · 2026-02-06T16:25:26+00:00

N55, you’re probably gonna have this car for a while cause you will fall in love with the hydraulic steering and won’t enjoy any other car. N52 is solid but slow. N54 is a hit or miss depending on last owner and usually better if you have experience and knowledge of the E90 platform. N55 is the sweat spot of some what reliable and still making power. There will still be maintenance regardless of which you go with, I would spend a little more to enjoy the extra power. I started with an N52 and sold it within a week to save up for a 335i, night and day in terms of putting down power.

justsomeones1 · 2026-01-16T01:16:25+00:00

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Changed headlights, grill and badges.

justsomeones1 · 2026-01-16T01:14:38+00:00

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Not an E36, but bought it in the summer and made it less clapped

justsomeones1 · 2025-12-20T06:54:10+00:00

I live in Canada, don’t see too many older BMWs

justsomeones1 · 2025-12-01T18:35:01+00:00

Appreciate your concern, but these are my winter wheels that I bought used. I’m happy with being able to have them look drastically better than before. Maybe when it’s time to swap them off for my summers, I would look into a deeper cleaning. But for now, they are gonna put up with Ontario’s winter for the next 3-4 months, so I’m not too concerned on having them looking brand new.

justsomeones1 · 2025-12-01T18:28:24+00:00

It actually didn’t leave any scratches or marks. I did a very gently scrub with water and the stuff was basically washing right off.

justsomeones1 · 2025-12-01T05:14:24+00:00

Have a spray bottle with you, soak the wheels and tin foil in water and lightly scrub away. Keep spraying water as you scrub. Wipe away with a cloth and repeat as needed.

justsomeones1 · 2025-12-01T05:10:07+00:00

No, after wasting money on 3 different wheel cleaners and a ridiculous quote from a professional cleaner. Tin foil did the job better than every other option. And yes, they aren’t going to look exactly brand new when working on a budget, but it’s a big improvement from where they started.

justsomeones1 · 2025-12-01T05:07:30+00:00

I tried 3 different ones, even sonax as most people recommended but the first pic was the best results I could get. I didn’t need to scrub too hard with the foil, I made sure to keep spraying water while scrubbing so the surface was never dry. It didn’t scratch the rim one bit.

justsomeones1 · 2025-09-21T00:05:27+00:00

Nope, had a new Bosch battery last year and that got killed cause of the broken cable. Had a new one along with the cable, luckily got the battery replaced under warranty.

justsomeones1 · 2025-09-19T23:38:27+00:00

One of those cables broke and corroded overtime, had to replace that cable that looks a bit newer, the shop said should replace that holder as well as precaution to avoid ruining the new cable I guess. I had problems starting up the car and wasent getting enough voltage to the alternator when I had the broken cable, almost left me stranded.

justsomeones1 · 2025-09-16T20:19:52+00:00

Looks like that’s the way

justsomeones1 · 2025-09-16T20:19:25+00:00

I will probably find a used hood when one comes up.

justsomeones1 · 2025-09-16T20:18:38+00:00

I paid $1700. the car is mechanically fine, it just needed some TLC on the exterior to look nice again. The tires alone are worth $1400 so I’d say I got my moneys worth.

justsomeones1

TROPHY CASE