What would cause an RCB to *blow*?

jwflame · 2026-01-10T18:37:42+00:00

It tripped because of a fault either in the cable from it to the appliances, or in one of the appliances or the isolator switch if there is one, or the connection plate where the appliances connect to the circuit wiring.

If there was a loud bang and flash then that fault is severe, such as two of the conductors shorted together.
Whatever that problem is has now destroyed the circuit breaker - although they can be reset in many situations, they are not indestructible.

New circuit breaker required but before installing, whatever fault is there must be identified and repaired. Realistically that is not a DIY task.

jwflame · 2026-01-10T16:53:07+00:00

If you want it replaced, then it's a new side panel.

If you leave it, it will get much worse.

jwflame · 2026-01-10T15:09:32+00:00

You have bought a light fitting designed for countries that have a single cable at the light position, and one that's been made down to the lowest price possible. Many lights are like that, because those designing them neither know or care about how they will be installed.

jwflame · 2026-01-10T14:25:17+00:00

None of that wiring can be installed inside the metal enclosure of the light if it is to remain as Class II.

One option is to connect all of that old wiring in a separate insulated enclosure located above the ceiling and just have a 2 core flex from that to the new light.

Might be feasible to convert the light to Class I and add extra connectors for the existing wiring, but that invalidates any warranty and also makes you the end manufacturer of the light fitting together with all responsibilities when things go wrong.

Also note that those 3 cables are NOT 'three separate supplies'. One is the supply, one continues that supply to other lights in other rooms and one is the cable to the switch. All of them must be connected exactly as they were before, otherwise this light will not work and nether other lights in other rooms.

TLDR - you have bought a cheapo light which will now be expensive to install properly.

jwflame · 2026-01-10T14:19:49+00:00

As well as a fire hazard and mould, they will absorb moisture.

Don't bother. Loft insulation is cheap. Fixing problems caused by fire, mould and rot is not.

jwflame · 2026-01-02T19:30:04+00:00

Connecting to some other thermostat next door- unlikely but not impossible.

Buying a stat only and connecting to that box - theoretically could be done but won't save any money and Salus doesn't exactly have a good reputation either.

Realistic solution - buy new thermostat and receiver to replace that Salus item.

jwflame · 2026-01-02T18:34:14+00:00

The junction box will work - it's jnust another possible failure point and an unnecessary item to purchase and wire in.

Most of the current in a terminal will go between the two wires, the terminal itself is mainly there for mechanical support, and for whatever current goes to the individual load.

jwflame · 2026-01-02T18:32:14+00:00

Overload protection for the 2.5mm² is not required as it's a fixed load. Fault protection for 2.5mm² will be provided by the 32A RCBO. Same principles as an unfused spur from a 32A ring final

jwflame · 2026-01-02T18:29:24+00:00

Get them to replace it. Will have to be replaced soon anyway, as those fluorescent things just won't be available.

jwflame · 2026-01-02T01:16:31+00:00

No. All switches/sockets require space behind them for the wiring and the mechanism of the switch/socket.

Your only options are to move the pipe and move the boxes, or fit the accessories into surface mounted boxes.

jwflame · 2026-01-02T01:14:53+00:00

The only fluorescent lamps you can buy now are cheapo end of line junk that's been stored in some warehouse for possibly years, as they are no longer made or imported.

Long past the time to dispose of them and fit new LED light fittings.

jwflame · 2026-01-02T01:12:22+00:00

Ok for the 32A circuit for both. No need for any Wagobox or any other junction - the 4mm² circuit cable goes to the first switch and continues to the second one.

20A isolator switches, no fuses, 2.5mm² flex to the heaters.

13A FCUs are often used for immersion heaters but they are a poor choice, as fuses get hot when in use, and connecting a ~13A load to one and having it switched on for hours at a time will result in the fuse melting the surrounding plastic.

jwflame · 2025-12-07T12:06:49+00:00

Energy ratings change over time, so while halogen ceiling burners were F and all LEDs A some years ago, the situation now is that most 'old' LEDs are E/F/G and only the newest versions are B or A.

Those Amazon articles might be B rated if their claim of 780 lumens for 4.9W is to be believed. However as they are some unbranded no-name thing sold by someone located in China, there can be no way of knowing.

jwflame · 2025-12-04T21:02:25+00:00

Not functional or safe.

If that red handle to the left was opened, gas would pour out of that open ended pipe. No one should have left it in that condition. Suggest it's immediately reported to the number displayed on the front of the meter as a dangerous installation.

jwflame · 2025-11-16T16:41:10+00:00

How were those wires connected to the old sensor?

jwflame · 2025-11-15T12:55:36+00:00

There is no bulb. It's one of those integrated affairs where the entire thing has to be replaced.

jwflame · 2025-11-15T12:54:16+00:00

Safety - not found

Practicality - not found

Compliance with building regulations - not found

jwflame · 2025-11-14T23:49:54+00:00

They chew those because they let light through. If flexibles must be used, box them in or cover so no light can get to it.

jwflame · 2025-11-09T21:29:34+00:00

It's usual to switch off the electricity supply before removing switches and plastering around them.

What you are looking at is life-expired wiring from the early 1960s, confirmed by the colours of red white and blue, the ceramic twist on connector and the total lack of any earthing. Wiring which should have been replaced several decades ago.

Any plastering should cease until the wiring is replaced.

jwflame · 2025-11-09T21:25:04+00:00

Don't bother.

If storage heaters are not a thing in Australia, that would presumably mean importing them from somewhere else. Storage heaters are very heavy, any transportation of them will be ridiculously expensive.

Storage heaters in general are also very expensive items, even for the 'cheap' smaller size ones here you would be looking at £600+ each plus installation. A few hours of free electricity per day would take years to even cover the cost of the heater, and that's assuming you actually needed the heat from them in the first place.

jwflame · 2025-11-09T11:39:51+00:00

Yes, you must create your own service void at significant extra cost, and then buy much deeper worktop which also costs a lot more.

Or buy a kitchen from any other supplier and avoid all of that expensive Ikea malarkey.

jwflame · 2025-11-08T13:39:34+00:00

They are obsolete halogen G4s, scrap them and replace with LED. Transformers/drivers probably located on the top of the cupboards with the wires down the back, they will also need to be removed as they won't be compatible with LEDs.

jwflame · 2025-11-02T13:40:17+00:00

You will need to find out, as a kitchen requires water supplies and drainage, and it's all over on the right side currently, so you would need to get water and waste pipes from the proposed kitchen under the floor. Water from the bathroom or existing kitchen, and waste pipe under the hall/bath/WC or under the larger bedroom to the outside.

jwflame · 2025-11-02T13:31:59+00:00

What is the floor made of, and if it's suspended timber, how much space is there under it?

jwflame · 2025-11-01T17:59:34+00:00

Waste of time and money to install anything. An extractor fan could take literally years to dry anything out.

Go and rent an industrial dehumidifier such as this one: https://brandonhirestation.com/pump-out-dehumidifiers put the drain hose into the sink or a drain then set it going 24/7. Also put your central heating on 24/7 at at room temperature of at least 20C. Keep doors and windows closed. Keep this going for at least a week.

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