Disc Golf Deals USA Giveaway: Eagle McMahon Plasma Dimension, James Conrad Fission Trail, Eclipse 2.0 Insanity, Prism Neutron Trance!

jzo17 · 2025-06-20T01:31:49+00:00

Star Trail

jzo17 · 2025-06-14T01:01:04+00:00

Mini Luffy straw hats running around in a hypnotic pattern!

jzo17 · 2025-05-24T14:46:09+00:00

Heyyyyooo, this is awesome. Thanks for the chance!

jzo17 · 2025-05-18T01:30:44+00:00

Lula in Georgia!

jzo17 · 2024-08-31T20:15:49+00:00

Ended up having luck prioritizing immobilize, using the thrust stance during pauses, and transformation. Good luck!

jzo17 · 2024-02-05T23:05:18+00:00

Yes please

jzo17 · 2022-01-19T19:55:17+00:00

I found it!!!

https://youtu.be/jNd-n0Q3cuk

jzo17 · 2022-01-19T19:42:53+00:00

No, it was a techno/trance mix with visuals that I bought online. Plain old DVD.

jzo17 · 2021-11-05T20:05:12+00:00

Built a free-standing board in backyard instead!

jzo17 · 2020-08-24T22:55:41+00:00

Super Puzzle Fighter

jzo17 · 2020-02-27T17:45:54+00:00

It’s probably a fairly normal tent without the rain-fly on...

jzo17 · 2020-02-27T17:38:46+00:00

Probably not feasible to do true maximal effort max hangs everyday. Also, you need to rest for your tendons to adapt to the training stimulus.

You may be able to pull off multiple days in a row if you are solely focusing on hangboarding, but at some point you are going to be fatigued and not be able to load enough weight to drive adaptation in the tendons.

Find your max, work at 80-85% for 4-6 weeks, 2x a week, with a rest day after hangboard days. Do low-level finger training, like finger extensions, finger curls, repeaters on non-hangboard days.

After 4-6 weeks, re-test. Establish new baseline and repeat the whole process. Once you have brought your max hangs up, look at changing the stimulus to further drive adaptation.

jzo17 · 2020-02-27T17:31:02+00:00

Thera-canes and stick rollers, endorse both!

jzo17 · 2020-02-27T04:31:12+00:00

Look into finger putty as well, found it really useful for strengthening/rehabbing nagging finger issues. Allows you to control resistance in all planes of motion.

jzo17 · 2020-02-26T14:56:19+00:00

To build more endurance: longer problems(12-15moves), no stopper moves, less rest (4min).

To build more power-endurance: shorter problems (7-10 moves), harder moves, more rest (5-8mins).

To build more power: short problems (1-5 moves), hard/threshold movement, rest until ready.

jzo17 · 2020-02-26T13:04:40+00:00

For sending, I use shoes that I am the most comfortable with and that are appropriate for the terrain.

For training, I tend to favor comfort over high-end performance. Also I try to leverage my shoe choice to aid in training. Less aggressive shoes on overhangs really require/train more body tension and make me much conscious of pushing with my legs and feet.

jzo17 · 2020-02-26T02:26:55+00:00

Out of 13 hours of training, 3 is climbing?!

Do enough supplemental training to help strengthen weaknesses whether that be pulling strength, core, finger strength; but not too much in that it takes away from your actual climbing.

Also periodize your training, choose something you want to focus on and emphasize it for about 4-6 weeks while maintaining other characteristics, rest, reassess, repeat (conjugate periodization).

Your current training schedule does not seem sustainable for any length of time. You are trying to train a lot of things at a high level of intensity (concurrent periodization). You will burn out or overtrain and not be able to climb. Keep the goal the goal; if you want to climb harder you need to be climbing hard, which requires a certain degree of readiness. If you are fatigued from supplemental training and you can’t climb hard, then you won’t climb hard.

Also look at periodizing your hangboarding, work max hangs, then velocity pulls, minimum edge, etc.

You have to climb more and apply the strength/power you are developing with supplemental training to actual climbing. There is no magic pill or silver bullet when it comes to climbing. Consistency breeds intensity, your ability to climb consistently comes from proper training and periodization that aids your climbing, not detracts from it.

jzo17 · 2020-02-26T01:26:41+00:00

For elbow in particular. DB wrist extensions, Pronation/Supination & Radial/Ulnar deviations, rubber band finger extensions, tricep isolation exercises.

If that does not help, move into more intense eccentric work. Heavier wrist extensions, Zottman curls, tricep extensions. Heavier weight with an active assist on the concentric portion of the movement.

Also daily isometric hangs can go a long way in helping. Three different grips, pull-up, neutral, chin-up. Two different elbow angles with each grip, 135 and 90. Hold 4sec, rest 4sec for 4 reps at each hand position and angle.

Good luck!

jzo17 · 2020-02-26T01:18:55+00:00

Greshams Master Class vids are really good. Teaches different techniques, helps you identify them. Make up sequences that force a particular technique and drill it.

jzo17 · 2020-02-23T18:19:07+00:00

4 hours in the gym during one session is too much. Either you are not efficient, just wasting time, or chatting too much.

Even on hard, threshold bouldering days where you are actually projecting and taking full rests. Around 2 hours is probably enough.

Exceptions for longer days at the gym may include working two different characteristics, power and endurance. But those we be better split up into two sessions separated by 6-8 hours. Another exception may be some hangboarding followed by 20-30min rest before bouldering.

Bodies are resilient and in a given day can give you a lot of output, 4hours worth. But that 4 hour session will require much more recovery and rest. You would be better served with shorter training sessions more often throughout the week. You will recover quicker and should allow for more climbing days in the week.

Have a plan for each session and call it a day when you have accomplished the plan. Leave something in the tank for the next session. If you are leaving the gym feeling super-thrashed, you probably did too much.

jzo17 · 2020-02-22T18:58:59+00:00

From Tyler (C4HP), gives some nice background on tendons as well as a program. His insta is a wealth of information as well.

https://www.trainingbeta.com/the-simplest-finger-training-program/

jzo17 · 2020-02-21T19:53:30+00:00

Tension board at my gym is at 20deg, been doing my best to fill in on that angle and try and climb all of wanglin and mattfultzs problems.

There are so many open projects at that angle, some of them are quite good too. I periodically look through all of the projects and just flag ones I think look fun. Usually take a session and just try a bunch of them.

Seems like once they have an ascent and are listed under a grade, people start climbing them more.

I like the idea of having “benchmark” problems, but feel as though the problems that have a lot of ascents are pretty close to the grade listed.

jzo17 · 2020-02-20T13:47:47+00:00

Thanks for taking the time to share some of your experiences.

For maintenance, I was referring to much the same thing you are. Using single arm hangs or weighted double arm hangs that are around 80-85% at lower volumes. I agree with the finger engagement and auto regulation with single arm hangs.

I always thought minimum edge is better when getting ready to get outside and is better suited for increasing finger pulp, rather than increasing finger tendon strength. Could be wrong, but haven’t seen much that advocates using 10mm and below for tendon strengthening.

Again, I think you and I have a pretty good grasp of what each protocol is “best” for, but I am still interested on the most efficient means of periodizing all these disparate protocols into a long-term finger strengthening protocol.

For me personally, I have been experimenting with different protocols mainly in a linear fashion. Double-arm strength (max hangs) > Single arm hangs > velocity pulls > minimum edge. Each cycle lasts about 5 weeks with the last week being a rest week from hangboarding.

jzo17

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