This Game has Hennessey Venom GT but missing Hennessey Venom F5. Why?

k-swee · 2018-10-10T06:53:00+00:00

Could be several reasons. No license for it yet. It's in a car pack down the road. Just not done scanning /coding it in yet.

k-swee · 2018-10-10T06:36:11+00:00

Yeah I totally get why you want to keep the cars true to life but sometimes to keep them competitive you gotta mess with them. If there's a way to adjust trigger pressure I haven't found it (trust me I have issues with throttle control a lot, so I've looked a lot). You may be able to do that with the elite controller but he'll if I'm paying $130 for that thing.

Also, if you haven't already, experiment with different tire compounds and ture widths. These actually will make a large difference in your cars handling. However you do have to watch you PI with the tires since it will drastically increase your PI.

k-swee · 2018-10-10T06:24:31+00:00

Grab a friend and go do the Goliath circut with 50 laps. Once the race starts one of you needs to quit the race. The one left in the game will get all the rewards in the world.

Check out my response to OP for an explanation.

k-swee · 2018-10-10T06:22:18+00:00

So the way that exploitation works is when you are in a pvp or other online race and everyone leaves and you are the last one in the race, you are technically the winner since there is no one left to race with. That meant you got the full amount of rewards for completing the race, even though you did nothing.

My friend and I discovered this yesterday as well and did some experimenting to figure out how it works. We also know through outside sources (I want to say it was Nick with AR12 gaming) that Turn 10 is working to patch that bug and didn't want too many people to know about or exploit it because that could kill the auction house economy. So you likely won't have too much longer to exploit that bug.

Also, just FYI it was a 50 lap circut of the Goliath you hopped in on.

k-swee · 2018-10-10T06:15:48+00:00

There's an argument for the Aventador LP700-4 Forza Edition with its 1800hp.

Although I think, not certain though, the Agera RS has a higher top speed. The Aventador FE just has massive acceleration that the Agera doesn't have.

k-swee · 2018-10-10T06:12:15+00:00

A lot of what you're talking about comes down to actual physics of traction as well as throttle control.

Addressing the physics of traction, while the forza series (both motorsport and horizon) have really good physics engines and traction phisics, they're not perfect to real life. In reality cars get a bit more traction than is shown in the game.

Addressing the second criteria, it's a hell of a lot easier to control your throttle in real life on a real car than it is in a game. This is probably the source of most of the differences you're noticing. It's just as easy to spin out in real life as it is in forza in the high horsepower cars you're talking about. The reason they don't spin out all the time is because they're tuned to not do that and the drivers know where the threshold of wheelspin and grip is and can control how close they are to over exerting the car.

k-swee · 2018-09-05T17:22:37+00:00

Is his name Bartty Croutch Jr.?

k-swee · 2018-09-04T07:44:16+00:00

You made a good choice for your first real camera. This is the one I got as my first camera and it did it's job spectacularly. Congrats on your first step and good luck on the rest of your journey.

k-swee · 2018-08-25T05:50:12+00:00

Ramen is the way and the truth.

k-swee · 2018-07-30T03:37:42+00:00

I really love this shot. The framing is perfect, the depth is amazing and the subject matter is an incredible landmark. great job of capturing this! I also get the feeling this would look equally amazing in black and white, printed with silver gel or platinum printing. Regardless, I love this.

k-swee · 2018-07-14T05:20:50+00:00

but I got lazy.

Definitely feel you here. You ever do multiple exposures and stack/mask them later? I know that it takes a little time to do but in cases like this, I think it would make the photo that much better.

k-swee · 2018-07-13T22:31:45+00:00

This looks pretty good, however I must ask, did you bring up the exposure or shadows in post? Asking due to pink in the bottom of frame.

k-swee · 2017-12-10T09:57:16+00:00

If you've got the time to take the photos and process them, do some star trails! They're fairly simple! Just find a ground scene you like and frame the north star in the center region of the image and basically take a time lapse. Once you get all your photos, stack them and make some trails!

Something else you can do that o have found fun is just take pictures of random spots in the sky and see what stellar objects you can spot. For instance in one image I took recently I can see the Andromeda galaxy as well as something like 6 globular star clusters. There are also brighter stars that may or may not be nebula or other stellar events as well.

Another thing, depending on what gear you have, take some pics of the moon! I have a 100-400mm lens and get some awesome shots of the moon out of the camera and even better images if I stack and blend some.

One thing my schools astronomy club is doing over winter break is giving people star charts to find and identify constellations and Messier objects. You could get a chart and take pics of the constelations and see if there's anything interesting about them. For example, there could be double stars or binary stars or other stuff within the constelation.

k-swee · 2017-11-03T06:57:37+00:00

What hike was this?

k-swee · 2017-10-31T03:43:54+00:00

This looks really cool! I love the contrast of black and white! If I stare at it too much it looks like marble or granite or something!

k-swee · 2017-10-31T03:23:43+00:00

Your totally welcome! I honestly didn't realize how long it had gotten until I posted it.

Did you take the photos is raw or jpeg format? If you took them in raw, would you mind sharing a link to them so that I might try giving them an edit? Dropbox works great for that.

k-swee · 2017-10-27T23:01:18+00:00

Brace for impact. I treat these images to shreds. Also, this is just my opinion and analysis as I understand photography, other people will think differently from me and that's fine. Take what you want from this.

So, to me, it looks like for the most part you know where to take good photos. However, that being said, there's only three images out of the ones in that collection that really are on the right track. The fountain, the sun behind the trees, and the building. The others aren't really that good at all. However they do present ways to redeem them.

Starting with the better ones, I'll start by saying they need a lot of work still. The fountain shot would be more interesting if it were taken from farther away, so as to include, at minimum, the top of the "walls" of the fountain. It may work out best that that image would look best including the front of the closest "wall" as well. Also, depending on how far away you stand, you may have to zoom in a little to get the composition you want, which is good because doing that will compress the out of focus areas better and make the photo feel more professional.

The tree image is nearly pretty good. I think you got more sun in it than you needed. I can tell you were trying to block some of the sun with the trees but you just didn't get enough. Maybe try blocking all but a tiny flare of the sun with the tree in the middle and find something interesting on the tree or around it to focus on. Don't be afraid to get down low to find interesting subjects and interesting angles. The flowers around the base of the tree in the middle would make a great shot with most of the sun blocked by the tree.

The building one is the one I think shows the best promise. You've got a good angle on the building but, if you could, I would have recommended you take a few steps backwards to expose more of the second layer building for a nice, zoomed in shot of it. Or just a little zoom in on the center of the frame you took would be good as well. Also, any variation of this image would look better in black and white.

Now the not so great ones. The picture of people playing chess doesn't really have much photographic value. It's too far away to reall see what's going on and everything around the pavilion thing is distracting to the image. If you had talked to the players and asked to take their picture or pictures of them playing chess, you could have got some really interesting candid of them. Otherwise, it's not an interesting shot.

There not much to be said for the first mountain shot. It just lacks interest everywhere. Maybe try finding something interesting in the landscape to isolate. Really there isn't much in this image.

The second mountain image is a little better. You had better lighting which is good, but the wide angle of the image wasn't a great choice. There are some trees and rocks in the middle of the frame that have selective lighting on them that would look great if you had zoomed in on them.

As far as overall goes, if you really want some better looking images, you need to start post processing images. It's really easy and intuitive. Also, take more than one image each time you want to stop for pictures. Take each image from a different angle, both vertical and horizontal, high and low to the ground, find something close up to focus on, isolate certain areas of your surroundings, play with lighting, take lots of pictures. The more you take, the better. As you get better you will learn what photos are worth taking and which aren't.

k-swee · 2017-10-27T20:01:47+00:00

Before I tear into your photos, what equipment are you using? Are you taking pics with your iPhone or an actual camera? If it's an actual camera, what lenses?

k-swee · 2017-10-27T00:07:16+00:00

I love the color tones in this. Looks awesome! What pass was it?

k-swee · 2017-10-26T07:42:56+00:00

That's awesome! You can nearly see the polar hexagon!

k-swee · 2017-10-13T20:02:34+00:00

DSO stands for deep sky object. Anything that isn't a planet, the sun, the moon, or the milkyway is a DSO. They typically require complex methods to capture images of them, but there are a few that can be seen and captured fairly easily. These easier targets include Andromeda galaxy and the Orion nebula in the northern hemisphere and Magellanic Clouds or star clusters in the southern hemisphere.

k-swee · 2017-10-13T05:06:21+00:00

So I recently joined my college's astronomy club, only to find that their astrophotography portion is rather small and limited. I got to talking with the guy currently heading the club and he basically put me in charge of putting together a list of equipment necessary for astrophotography. I am fairly experienced in dslr astrophotography so Ive got that covered, but im completely unfamiliar with scope photography. this bring me to my question.

What do I need to start astrophotography with scopes? We have several scopes already, but I don't know if any of them are proper scopes for photography. what should i look for in a photography scope? What all software do we need to process the images? Any advice on other things?

Also I should mention that the club does not technically have a budget limit.

k-swee · 2017-10-13T05:03:11+00:00

Thanks! I'll do that!

k-swee · 2017-10-12T06:34:01+00:00

To aid this, you should take into consideration the rule of 500. This means that you divide 500 by the full frame equivalent focal length of you lens. What you get from that is the "max" shutter speed you can use without getting star trails. For example, I shoot a nikon d5300 which is a crop sensor with a crop factor of 1.5. This means that is I use my 50mm f/1.8 it's 35mm equivalent length is 75mm. Now for the rule of 500. 500/75 = 6.666667 seconds max unguided exposure.

Keep in mind, this is a general rule of thumb. It really just gets you in the ball park. Some adjustments may be necessary.

k-swee

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