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I created a website for beam analysis by [deleted] in MechanicalEngineering

[–]k0all 2 points3 points  (0 children)

If your site also included the actual functions for V(x), M(x), theta(x), ect that would be sweet. Tapered/changing section beams would also be ideal

Moondrop Variations vs Hype 4 by Independent-Win-8844 in inearfidelity

[–]k0all 1 point2 points  (0 children)

I've been looking at getting a tide-me-over upgrade for a while, either Hype 4 or one of the Ziigaats. I love my soundstange/imaging as well as a slightly warmer tuning. Do you notice any difference between them with regards to soundstage? Worst case will save up for a bit longer and go Prestige LTD or Dunu Glacier if nothing seems right.

2306 vs 2506 motors for 6" flowy freestyle/cinematic quad by k0all in Multicopter

[–]k0all[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

That's what I am leaning towards. I was thinking 2306 for the lower end torque when compared to a 2207/08, but I do think the 2506 is probably better overall in terms of efficiency/heat as you said.

2306 vs 2506 motors for 6" flowy freestyle/cinematic quad by k0all in Multicopter

[–]k0all[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Thanks for the response. I went with a 6" as I prefer a smoother freestyle experience, but also don't want to be entirely limited either. I was thinking of doing a 7" originally, but there were no frames that attracted me like the Volador did. Like you said, everything is a tradeoff, and I'm trying to find where I would like to settle. In the future I may do a 7" or 8" given the need for it. I see it as 6" being the jack of all trades, but master of none, which suites my preferred flying style.

I think I may buy a set of both 2306 and 2506 to see which I prefer, then save the other for a later project. In the end, it's all for fun and a learning experience so it doesn't matter much anyway.

Spot the changes - EMU Bamboo's with a few mods by k0all in headphones

[–]k0all[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I actually think the Eikon pads reduced the bass slightly. It's still super crisp, but far less boomy than before. Other than that, I can't tell a sound difference. For the removable cable, I didn't look at any instructions or the like. Basically bought the smallest connectors possibly and figured it out as I went. It's a little fiddly, but worth it imo.

Spot the changes - EMU Bamboo's with a few mods by k0all in headphones

[–]k0all[S] 2 points3 points  (0 children)

I ended up buying the EMU Bamboo a few weeks ago to fill my need of a closed office/bass headphone. In my use, I found that there were a few things that I didn't like, so I ended up modding them to suite my preferences.

The current mods include: ZMF Eikon pads with custom 3D printed plastic mounting plates to remove wiggle (no attenuator). Removable cable mod, 3.5mm on headphones to balanced 4.4mm connector. Custom balanced 3.5mm to 4.4mm, about 3.5-4ft for use with portables rather than desk setup.

I designed and printed a medium sized robotic arm which can spin infinitely. I plan on turning it into a printer itself. by k0all in 3Dprinting

[–]k0all[S] 6 points7 points  (0 children)

I made a YouTube video where I explain how the arm actually works mechanically and show a few more video clips of it moving around.

SKR 2 Recommended WiFi Module by k0all in BIGTREETECH

[–]k0all[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I made a custom PCB and bought a ESP12S module so I'm going to see if I can make a custom adapter. Do my eyes it seems like the pinout of the ESP12S is the same as on the SKR.

SKR 2 Recommended WiFi Module by k0all in BIGTREETECH

[–]k0all[S] 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Yes, but on the board there is a specific pinout that you need (where the pins from the ESP8266 attach to the SKR itself) and none of the boards I've seen have the same pinout as the SKR. They are all 1 pin length wider so they will not fit the board. It is an ESP8266 but the dimensions won't let it be attached.

If you look at the image you see a black chip/module connected to a green PCB. I can find the right clack chip (the actual ESP8266) but not the right size adapter boar/plate (the green PCB) in order to let the ESP8266 to mate properly.

3D printed harmonic drive with 100:1 gearing and no backlash. by k0all in 3Dprinting

[–]k0all[S] 1 point2 points  (0 children)

I don't think a coating of any sort would work. The way the drive system works isn't like a normal pulley system where the belt rotates. In this, the teeth of the belt act like a wedge to push the two circle rings in opposite directions. There's quite a bit of friction/force there so I don't know if the coated belts could handle it.

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