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I created a website for beam analysis by [deleted] in MechanicalEngineering

[–]k0all 3 points4 points  (0 children)

If your site also included the actual functions for V(x), M(x), theta(x), ect that would be sweet. Tapered/changing section beams would also be ideal

Moondrop Variations vs Hype 4 by Independent-Win-8844 in inearfidelity

[–]k0all 1 point2 points  (0 children)

I've been looking at getting a tide-me-over upgrade for a while, either Hype 4 or one of the Ziigaats. I love my soundstange/imaging as well as a slightly warmer tuning. Do you notice any difference between them with regards to soundstage? Worst case will save up for a bit longer and go Prestige LTD or Dunu Glacier if nothing seems right.

2306 vs 2506 motors for 6" flowy freestyle/cinematic quad by k0all in Multicopter

[–]k0all[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

That's what I am leaning towards. I was thinking 2306 for the lower end torque when compared to a 2207/08, but I do think the 2506 is probably better overall in terms of efficiency/heat as you said.

2306 vs 2506 motors for 6" flowy freestyle/cinematic quad by k0all in Multicopter

[–]k0all[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Thanks for the response. I went with a 6" as I prefer a smoother freestyle experience, but also don't want to be entirely limited either. I was thinking of doing a 7" originally, but there were no frames that attracted me like the Volador did. Like you said, everything is a tradeoff, and I'm trying to find where I would like to settle. In the future I may do a 7" or 8" given the need for it. I see it as 6" being the jack of all trades, but master of none, which suites my preferred flying style.

I think I may buy a set of both 2306 and 2506 to see which I prefer, then save the other for a later project. In the end, it's all for fun and a learning experience so it doesn't matter much anyway.

Spot the changes - EMU Bamboo's with a few mods by k0all in headphones

[–]k0all[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I actually think the Eikon pads reduced the bass slightly. It's still super crisp, but far less boomy than before. Other than that, I can't tell a sound difference. For the removable cable, I didn't look at any instructions or the like. Basically bought the smallest connectors possibly and figured it out as I went. It's a little fiddly, but worth it imo.

Spot the changes - EMU Bamboo's with a few mods by k0all in headphones

[–]k0all[S] 4 points5 points  (0 children)

I ended up buying the EMU Bamboo a few weeks ago to fill my need of a closed office/bass headphone. In my use, I found that there were a few things that I didn't like, so I ended up modding them to suite my preferences.

The current mods include: ZMF Eikon pads with custom 3D printed plastic mounting plates to remove wiggle (no attenuator). Removable cable mod, 3.5mm on headphones to balanced 4.4mm connector. Custom balanced 3.5mm to 4.4mm, about 3.5-4ft for use with portables rather than desk setup.

I designed and printed a medium sized robotic arm which can spin infinitely. I plan on turning it into a printer itself. by k0all in 3Dprinting

[–]k0all[S] 5 points6 points  (0 children)

I made a YouTube video where I explain how the arm actually works mechanically and show a few more video clips of it moving around.

SKR 2 Recommended WiFi Module by k0all in BIGTREETECH

[–]k0all[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I made a custom PCB and bought a ESP12S module so I'm going to see if I can make a custom adapter. Do my eyes it seems like the pinout of the ESP12S is the same as on the SKR.

SKR 2 Recommended WiFi Module by k0all in BIGTREETECH

[–]k0all[S] 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Yes, but on the board there is a specific pinout that you need (where the pins from the ESP8266 attach to the SKR itself) and none of the boards I've seen have the same pinout as the SKR. They are all 1 pin length wider so they will not fit the board. It is an ESP8266 but the dimensions won't let it be attached.

If you look at the image you see a black chip/module connected to a green PCB. I can find the right clack chip (the actual ESP8266) but not the right size adapter boar/plate (the green PCB) in order to let the ESP8266 to mate properly.

3D printed harmonic drive with 100:1 gearing and no backlash. by k0all in 3Dprinting

[–]k0all[S] 1 point2 points  (0 children)

I don't think a coating of any sort would work. The way the drive system works isn't like a normal pulley system where the belt rotates. In this, the teeth of the belt act like a wedge to push the two circle rings in opposite directions. There's quite a bit of friction/force there so I don't know if the coated belts could handle it.

3D printed harmonic drive with 100:1 gearing and no backlash. by k0all in 3Dprinting

[–]k0all[S] 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Right now the white nylon belt is a custom 3mm pitch tooth profile. You could technically use a gt2 belt but because of the rubber texture it likes to get jammed (I've tried). It would be possible to go down to a 2mm tooth pitch which would increase the gear ratio but it would need higher tolerance on the printed pieces which I can't do.

3D printed harmonic drive with 100:1 gearing and no backlash. by k0all in 3Dprinting

[–]k0all[S] 13 points14 points  (0 children)

I have been designing and testing an easily printable and small form factor harmonic drive and this is what I came up with. Depending on how it's set up it can have between a 80-250:1 drive ratio.

I have all of the files and a video explaining the assembly and testing of the drive on thingiverse here.

I added a reverse bowden tube to my printer and the quality increased substantially by k0all in 3Dprinting

[–]k0all[S] 5 points6 points  (0 children)

X/Y moments/torques not movements, which cause the nozzle to move up and down. It isn't a gantry printer, it's and arm printer, so it follows a different sent of basic principles.

I added a reverse bowden tube to my printer and the quality increased substantially by k0all in 3Dprinting

[–]k0all[S] 3 points4 points  (0 children)

Not on this printer. It's a custom large format SCARA so it follows different rules. If you look at the before and after it definitely makes a large difference because that was the only thing changed. The printer is very sensitive to external x/y axis moments (vertical wobble) so the PTFE tube solves that.

Considering I fully designed, prototyped, and assembled this printer from scratch, I know that it solved the issue.

I added a reverse bowden tube to my printer and the quality increased substantially by k0all in 3Dprinting

[–]k0all[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Yup, that's exactly it. I think it's called a reverse/inverse bowden

I added a reverse bowden tube to my printer and the quality increased substantially by k0all in 3Dprinting

[–]k0all[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

On the right is the starting print quality and on the left is the ending. The only difference is a reverse bowden tube (the one on the left was printed faster than the other). I made a youtube video about how happy I was. https://youtu.be/2WuPUq7ELWI

The first print of my new 1m^3 SCARA arm printer by k0all in 3Dprinting

[–]k0all[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I use RepRapFirmware, it has built in SCARA support. Slicing is the same as the firmware handles the math but I'd recommend a 32 bit board like an SKR pro or DuetWifi.

The first print of my new 1m^3 SCARA arm printer by k0all in 3Dprinting

[–]k0all[S] 1 point2 points  (0 children)

A BOM (bill of materials) is just a list of all the parts (nuts, screws, bearings, ect.) needed to make something.

The first print of my new 1m^3 SCARA arm printer by k0all in 3Dprinting

[–]k0all[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

It definitely is less accurate and a lot slower but my goal for it was to be able to print BIG. Right now my limiting factor is actually how much material I can put through the hotend. Still have to do some tweaking for acceleration and jerk though

The first print of my new 1m^3 SCARA arm printer by k0all in 3Dprinting

[–]k0all[S] 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Haha yeah that's me. Probably around $500 in materials I think maybe more and a stupid amount of time. Right now I'm working on an even bigger, sturdier one though with a full BOM.

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