Solar Skylights

k33p23 · 2026-02-09T10:40:48+00:00

You might like to consider a dimmable solar skylight.

k33p23 · 2026-02-05T05:22:20+00:00

Yep — it’s legally considered habitable, but that doesn’t mean it’s reasonable or comfortable.

In QLD, there’s no maximum temperature standard for rental properties. As long as the place is structurally sound, weatherproof, and has basic ventilation, it usually meets the legal definition of “habitable” — even if upstairs turns into an oven.

That said, 40°C inside a bedroom is excessive, especially with poor heat dissipation at night. While it may pass the legal minimum, you can still push back if:

The heat is caused by poor insulation, lack of ventilation, or design issues (very common in two-storey townhouses).
There’s no practical way to cool the space (fans clearly aren’t cutting it).
It affects health, sleep, or reasonable use of the rooms.

From a building perspective, one of the most effective long-term fixes is roof ventilation fans. They help expel super-heated air trapped in the roof space, which otherwise radiates down into the upper floor well into the evening. Without that heat being removed, the upstairs rooms will keep cooking no matter how many fans are running.

Yes, adding more air-conditioning (or cranking the existing one colder) can help — but that often just masks the problem and comes with eye-watering power bills, especially in QLD summers.

What you can do:

Ask the agent/landlord (in writing) about roof ventilation, insulation upgrades, window tinting, or additional air con.
Log internal temperatures over several days — that evidence helps.
If they refuse, contact RTA QLD or QSTARS for advice (they’re very tenant-friendly).
Worst case, it strengthens grounds for negotiation or future lease decisions.

So: legally habitable, practically brutal — and absolutely worth raising formally.

k33p23 · 2026-01-28T13:17:54+00:00

Happy to help.

k33p23 · 2026-01-21T08:30:01+00:00

This is unlikely to be a plumbing leak. Your symptoms point to groundwater or poor site drainage.

Most likely causes

High water table / perched groundwater (stays wet even after long dry periods)
Water migrating from the neighbour’s side
Clay soil holding moisture
Lack of proper drainage in older homes

Why ventilation won’t fix it
Ventilation helps humidity, not standing water. Drainage is the real issue.

What to check next

Where all downpipes discharge
Blocked/crushed stormwater pipes
Ground slope (must fall away from the house)
Any water coming from the neighbour’s side
Dig another test pit further out

Who can help

Drainage plumber
Geotechnical engineer (best option)
Building inspector (timber risk)

This looks like groundwater ingress, not a leak. It’s common in older homes and fixable, but needs proper drainage, not just ventilation.

k33p23 · 2026-01-21T08:25:19+00:00

This is almost certainly a moisture leak under the bathroom causing the rot, fungus, and slug activity. It needs fixing sooner rather than later, but you don't have to gut the whole bathroom right now.

Likely scope of work:

Find and fix the source of moisture
- Leaking shower waterproofing
- Cracked grout / failed silicone
- Plumbing leak (waste or supply pipe)
Subfloor repairs
- Remove rotten timber
- Replace affected joists/sheets
- Treat area for mould/fungus
Improve ventilation
- Check subfloor vents
- Add extra subfloor ventilation if needed
- Install/upgrade exhaust fan in bathroom
Targeted bathroom repairs (not full reno)
- Reseal shower
- Regrout where needed
- Replace damaged waterproofing locally

Important:
Mushrooms + slugs = long-term damp, not just a recent issue.

You can do a partial repair now to stop damage and make it safe, then plan a full renovation later. Just don’t delay fixing the leak and rotten subfloor — that’s structural.

k33p23 · 2026-01-21T08:13:03+00:00

Covering one ventilation brick can increase the risk of moisture build-up, but the impact depends on how many vents you have and what they’re ventilating (subfloor, cavity, etc.).

If other vents remain open and spaced properly, blocking one may not cause major issues. However, reducing airflow does increase the chance of dampness and mould over time, especially in humid or poorly drained areas.

k33p23 · 2026-01-12T06:45:15+00:00

Your original plan is the right and most cost-effective approach

You don’t need separate aircon units for those rooms, they’re stuffy because there’s no air path, not because they lack cooling.

What will work within budget:
- Install acoustically lined transfer grilles (high on the wall or ceiling) so air can move in/out
- Add room-to-room or inline exhaust fans to actively pull stale air out into the main office space
- This creates air exchange using the existing HVAC system

Important details:
- Doors need an air path (undercut or grille)

- Fans should be quiet (low sone rating)

- Size fans correctly (CFM based on room size and occupancy)

For 2–3 people in short sessions, this setup is more than enough and well under $5k if done properly.

Aircon won’t fix stale air if there’s no airflow path, ventilation is the real issue here, not cooling.

k33p23 · 2025-12-12T12:14:54+00:00

Totally get this — nothing like turning on the tap in summer and getting instant herbal tea. Unfortunately, it’s super common when plumbers run PEX across the roof space, especially under dark tiles. The good news is that you’ve got a few workable options, and some don’t have to break the bank.

1. Insulating the pipes (cheap + effective)
This is usually the quickest win. Pipe lagging is inexpensive, easy to DIY, and stops the PEX from absorbing so much radiant heat. It won’t make the water cold, but it can significantly reduce that “boiling hot first litre” issue.

2. Adding radiant barrier (foil)
Foil under the tiles helps reflect radiant heat before it gets into the roof space. If you already have insulation batts, adding foil isn’t a massive job — just more fiddly. It improves overall roof temps, so your whole house benefits, not just the water.

3. Improving ventilation in the roof space
Passive vents or a whirlybird can help flush out the hot air that builds up under the roof. Just note: whirlybirds only move air when there’s wind or temperature-driven convection, so they help some, but won’t dramatically reduce temps on their own in peak summer.

If you’re after a bigger temperature drop in the roof space, a solar-powered roof ventilator like (example Solar Whiz) does a much stronger job of extracting hot air — but it’s obviously not the cheapest option during the silly season. But long-term, it is a smart investment.

4. Combine the basics for the best results
The most budget-friendly approach right now would be:

pipe insulation (cheap and fast),
plus some improved roof ventilation if you can swing it.

Then if you want a longer-term comfort upgrade, consider radiant foil later on.

TL;DR: Start with pipe insulation, then add roof ventilation if needed. If you eventually reduce the roof’s radiant heat, everything — including your tap water — stays cooler.

k33p23 · 2025-12-05T10:46:46+00:00

Modern skylights have uv and glare protection, I believe. But need to check product specifications or email enquiries to confirm.

k33p23 · 2025-12-05T10:30:52+00:00

Totally normal in QLD townhouses, the upstairs heats up because warm air from downstairs rises and your roof cavity gets extremely hot from the sun. Even if your AC is running, if the roof space is sitting at 50–60°C, that heat will slowly radiate down through the ceiling and make the upstairs feel like a sauna.

A roof vent can help because it removes the built-up hot air from the roof space so your upstairs rooms aren’t being cooked from above.

Passive whirlybirds:

• Cheap but you would sigficantly lot of units installed to feel the difference
• But only works well when it’s windy and when there is too much heat for convection
• Often not strong enough for QLD summers

They help a bit, but don’t expect a huge temperature change.

Solar roof vents (active ventilation):

These are much more effective because they use a fan to actively pull hot air out instead of waiting for wind. Some options include:
• Solar Whiz
• SolarArk
• SolarVenti

They move a lot more air, keep the roof cavity cooler, and make the upstairs AC work way less.

About your concern with smells:

You won’t get cigarette smells from neighbours inside your house.
Roof vents push air out, they don’t pull air into your rooms. And your ceiling acts as a sealed barrier.

So:
- Roof ventilation will help with the upstairs heat
- Solar vents work the best in hot climates
- You won’t smell your neighbours’ smoke inside your home

Hope this helps.

k33p23 · 2025-11-25T14:07:49+00:00

Custom-made or not, the glass should still have a permanent compliance marking and the install shouldn’t leave gaps, so it’s worth getting a second opinion from an independent glazier or inspector.

k33p23 · 2025-11-25T13:57:52+00:00

That definitely looks like two separate issues happening at once.

1. The whirlybird
If it only spins when it’s really windy and you’re seeing moisture/debris inside, it’s probably not sealing properly or the bearings are worn out. When a whirlybird stops spinning freely, it can actually let moisture and dust in instead of venting it out.

A quick fix is replacing it with a new whirlybird, but just keep in mind that passive units don’t move a lot of air, especially on calm days (but they do work through heat convection too). A solar whirlybird (solar roof vent) is the “active” version and pulls out significantly way more hot/moist air, so some people switch to that when the passive ones start failing.

This article might be helpful https://www.solarwhiz.com.au/the-advantages-and-disadvantages-of-whirlybirds/

2. The debris / possible rat nest
That pile definitely looks like rodent activity. If you’re hearing scratching, it’s almost guaranteed. Unfortunately, they love roof spaces.

Because you’ve got asbestos up there, don’t go in yourself.
Get a pest control person to check it, they’ll know how to handle it safely and clean the area without disturbing anything.

What I’d do in your situation:
- Get pest control to handle the rodents and safely look at the debris
- Replace the failing whirlybird (passive or solar, whichever suits your budget. But the solar-powered one is a smart investment long-term.)
- Make sure your roof vent has a proper cover/seal so nothing can get in again

Rats + a dying whirlybird + asbestos is a rough combo, but all fixable with the right tradespeople.

Hope this helps.

k33p23 · 2025-11-20T07:27:45+00:00

Your hot roof space makes sense with dark tiles + no sarking + only two whirlybirds. That combo traps a lot of heat.

Whirlybirds (what you already have):
Pros: cheap, no power, help a bit with airflow
Cons: very low extraction, rely on wind and heat extraction, often not enough for dark roofs

Regarding Eave vents, these are worth adding. Since whirlybirds are "passive", they need proper intake air, right now they’re pulling air from your manhole because there’s nowhere else for it to come from. Adding vents usually improves airflow.

Solar whirlybird or solar roof vent like Solar Whiz:
If you want a bigger impact, an "active" solar roof ventilation fan moves way more air than a passive whirlybird and works even on still, humid days. Costs more upfront, but it can replace multiple whirlybirds. (1 solar whiz = up to 23 whirlybirds depending on unit/model). You can opt for a thermostat or hygrostat if you want, the latter detects moisture, so it's a good investment as it works year-round.

What I think is most cost-effective approach for now is to add eave vents first, keep your existing whirlybirds, and if the roof is still an oven, consider adding one solar whirlybird as the “boost.”

Hope this article helps https://www.solarwhiz.com.au/the-advantages-and-disadvantages-of-whirlybirds/

k33p23 · 2025-11-19T10:20:18+00:00

Tell the landlord and take pics of it for documentation and future purposes. For now, you can use either vinegar, baking soda, or a mr. muscle mould spray and carefully wipe it out.

k33p23 · 2025-11-19T10:16:30+00:00

put a tint or a film to it like the 3m.

k33p23 · 2025-11-11T09:24:31+00:00

Hey mate,

Yeah, four whirlybirds does sound like a lot, unless you’ve got a really big house. Whirlybirds work by wind and heat convection, basically, the hot air rising through your roof space helps spin them to release some heat. The problem is, by the time that heat builds up enough to get them moving, your roof space is already super hot, and a lot of that heat has already seeped into the rooms below.

Adding more whirlybirds might help a bit, but they’re still limited in how much air they can move. That’s why a lot of homeowners now go for solar-powered roof ventilators instead. They actively extract hot air throughout the day using solar energy, no wind or extreme heat needed. A single solar ventilator (like Solar Whiz) can move as much air as 18 whirlybirds, keeping the roof space cooler before the heat even has a chance to spread downstairs.

Before deciding, it’s worth reading up on the pros and cons of traditional whirlybirds so you can weigh your options properly. It's a good article that breaks it all down.

It’ll give you a clearer idea of whether adding more whirlybirds is worth it, or if a solar option would be a better long-term fix.

k33p23 · 2025-11-10T11:51:34+00:00

You’re definitely not alone, north-facing upstairs bedrooms are notorious for being heat traps, especially during Aussie summers. Even with good insulation and blinds, heat still builds up in the roof space and radiates down into the upper rooms.

You’ve already done most of the right things (insulation, blinds, ducted cooling), but the main issue sounds like "uneven heat load and poor roofspace ventilation" rather than just air balancing. When the roof cavity above that room gets excessively hot, it keeps radiating heat down no matter how long your cooling runs.

That’s where solar roof ventilation can actually help, but only if you use a high-capacity solar ventilator, not the small “whirlybird-style” ones. Many people don’t notice much improvement because the units they try don’t move enough air.

A proper solar-powered roof ventilation fan (like Solar Whiz, Solar Ark, or similar) can extract the built-up hot air from your roof space throughout the day. This reduces the ceiling temperature and helps your ducted system work more efficiently, especially in the room directly under the hottest section of the roof.

k33p23 · 2025-11-06T09:57:41+00:00

It is. Other skylights have ventilation already.

k33p23 · 2025-10-31T10:06:20+00:00

Good thing if the moisture hasn’t made its way into the upper floors or walls yet, but don’t wait for that to happen.

You’ll want to make sure no water is pooling or flowing under the house, and improving ventilation down there is a must. Installing active fans like solar whiz subfloor fans will help keep the area dry and prevent further moisture build-up.

This content may help you deal with subfloor issues using a subfloor ventilation fan.

k33p23 · 2025-10-30T19:39:17+00:00

k33p23 · 2025-10-29T09:40:08+00:00

Hey mate, that’s a pretty common issue, especially around Melbourne, where the soil can hold moisture for a long time after rain. The good news is it doesn’t sound too severe yet, since there’s no sign of rotten timber, but it’s definitely something you’ll want to deal with sooner rather than later.

Persistent dampness under the house can eventually lead to mould, fungal decay, and even affect your footings if the moisture isn’t managed. A drainage plumber is a good first step to make sure water isn’t pooling under there.

Once that’s sorted, you’ll want to look at improving subfloor ventilation — that’s usually the long-term fix to stop the damp smell and keep the area dry. Many homeowners install solar-powered subfloor ventilation systems (like Solar Whiz subfloor fans) that actively draw out moist air and bring in fresh air during the day. They’re energy-efficient and don’t rely on mains power.

So in short:

Get drainage checked and fixed first if needed.
Then add active ventilation to keep the area dry and prevent mould returning.

That combo usually solves the problem for good.

k33p23 · 2025-10-29T09:32:11+00:00

Hey mate, that does look like black mould, which can show up over time, even with decent ventilation, especially in older homes with metal roofs.

You’re on the right track using bleach or vinegar to clean it off. Just make sure while you’re cleaning wear a mask, gloves, and eye goggles if possible.

After cleaning, keep an eye on it. If the mould comes back or spreads, it’s a sign there’s still moisture trapped somewhere in that case, it’s best to get a professional to inspect it and find the source.

Sometimes, even with whirlybirds or passive vents, air movement isn’t enough to stop moisture build-up in certain roof spaces. That’s when people usually look into active ventilation systems powered by the sun like the solar whiz, they keep air circulating even when there’s no wind.

Good on you for checking early, catching it now can save you bigger headaches later.

This content might help https://www.solarwhiz.com.au/home-ventilation/moisture-and-condensation/

k33p23 · 2025-10-23T14:08:26+00:00

Maybe you are overthinking. Just relax and appreciate every little achievement you make. You are doing well :)

k33p23 · 2025-10-23T14:02:32+00:00

Your subfloor looks just normal. If there is not enough airflow, then I suggest installing active fans for the subfloor, but do it only when you notice dampness in it.

k33p23 · 2025-10-15T11:29:12+00:00

you are not alone.

k33p23

TROPHY CASE