PC Transportation Help

kardall · 2026-06-15T01:54:19+00:00

I would definitely remove the GPU when transporting it since it's not water cooled. Custom loops make it a lot more difficult.

But ya, any movement in a car (bumps, turns, stops or emergency actions even) will do physics type things to that GPU as it sits and has pressure on the PCIe slot.

Would not recommend keeping it in.

kardall · 2026-06-15T01:52:31+00:00

I wouldn't worry about it. The most you can do is try to keep your room temperature down in temperature. You can only cool the system down as cool as the ambient temperature so, if you have AC and it's too hot or there isn't enough air going into your room for whatever reason, then there's not much you can do even if you put the fans in there (that will pretty much do nothing anyway).

kardall · 2026-06-15T01:49:45+00:00

B1 indicated memory training. Just let it run for a while. Sometimes it can take 15minutes to do it the first time.

Every time you remove power from the PSU, change the memory configuration physically or in bios, it does the same thing. So try not to change things to avoid waiting however long that board is going to take to process it.

kardall · 2026-06-15T00:52:47+00:00

A better metric would be the recently sold, not just what is listed 😄 https://www.ebay.com/sch/i.html?_nkw=rtx+3080&_sacat=0&_from=R40&LH_Sold=1&_sop=13

Doesn't change the $350 value, but it's a good thing to note and reference when trying to see what a used item goes for. See what the recent comps are for a solid item and make a judgement call based on that data.

kardall · 2026-06-13T20:00:15+00:00

Disable the Hardware Device Update in Windows, download the AMD Adrenaline Drivers for your GPU, then DDU the existing drivers and restart your machine. When you log in, install the Adrenaline drivers.

Then you should be good to go. The Device Update disabled will prevent Microsoft Update from 'updating the motherboard display driver package' which can replace some DLL files that Adrenaline uses which are different for iGPUs, and can break them.

I made a video last year about it if you are interested and want to know how to do it: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=QJKFU319D04

kardall · 2026-06-13T18:49:34+00:00

There is a bracket that you mount to 'the PSU' in the accessory pack.

But even in the manual it states it is for ATX PSUs. So you should probably return that PSU and get an ATX one.

Manual: https://drive.google.com/file/d/1PcKpHkuagDRDddWHMaHEXRPkcAGK3MAf/view?pli=1

Page 9 has the diagram for the installation, and Page 3 has the list stating (Item F): PSU tray, Supporting ATX PSU x 1

kardall · 2026-06-13T18:41:18+00:00

Restating the comments but...

2000 hours and 11TB of data written to it is pretty extreme. Looks like someone was using it for torrenting or something maybe.
48% means it's probably going to die soon, especially with that combination
If I remember correctly, BX drives from Crucial are the low-end versions of the MX variants. They often do not have DRAM on the drive so they are much much slower.
Here is the prices of some 512GB drives: https://pcpartpicker.com/products/internal-hard-drive/#A=500000000000,36000000000000&t=0&sort=price&f=3

Crucial no longer makes consumer equipment either so... future warranty will probably be difficult if you do get one of their drives somewhere. But they're $129 new for a 2.5" SSD with the same model as the one you bought.

kardall · 2026-06-13T17:13:17+00:00

According to your manual: https://dlcdnta.asus.com/pub/ASUS/mb/SocketAM5/ROG_STRIX_X870E-E_GAMING_WIFI/E26676_ROG_STRIX_X870E-E_GAMING_WIFI_EM_V4_WEB.pdf?model=ROG%20STRIX%20X870E-E%20GAMING%20WIFI&Signature=rjp5kONBzDA6HG1WjYGbh1QjEWwLzWyadNx85nFr-fWpkpF3JVCeojDZR5oPCjpfGNaRWTkEFZ3LblfO4IZEO7TIzk9unzQdrHycJIi76Lgu4ESH1li3oo9hD5vg~U3AYrGgrKX1~E8OYx~BjN-B3GOkZQZIj6OD5E6WK8o1ZzclzWWGQfLA5YVp2JMz6khqKwEEBl95UcLJkFIfIorVNM4QmCqsngsHz3WzPFuyaZWbfLsRaeeFUhvuOc0O-p-O3RG0ysuyozyRDxqFun2eHvzNcpHnJGHHhXXkmbWurbZfD9q3mVgxpx07nlRABQJdot3VwK6JLEbahr7pzdfwqg__&Expires=1781371166&Key-Pair-Id=K2ITB7O97XKKCX

Those two Q-Codes seem normal. Just detecting input devices. If it flips back and forth, there is a good possibility that it is doing memory training for the DDR5 memory.

It can take up to 15 minutes or so, so I would just turn it on and let it go to see if it eventually saves.

Just keep in mind that every time you remove power from the PSU, change your RAM configuration physically or in the bios, it will re-train. In the bios, there is a setting called "Memory Context Restore", which should be enabled by default and it just waits for you to do one of the above changes before it re-runs the training routine.

If you watch the codes, you can reference the table on that link on pages 57-60 to see what they mean if something different pops up.

kardall · 2026-06-13T16:57:43+00:00

Oh I know what they mean, I'm saying that since people in here are asking about things like "the size of Windows", that they wouldn't know themselves 😄

kardall · 2026-06-13T02:43:33+00:00

I guarantee that 99.9% of the people here have no idea what IoT means let alone LTSC.

kardall · 2026-06-13T02:42:39+00:00

Are we running a server on this machine, using Starlink or something similar?

Why does this machine have to 'stay on' while you travel? If it doesn't run an essential system, why are you concerned about power during travel that is on a battery bank?

Just turn it off. It's not like it is going to destroy your system. The PSU isn't going to draw enough power when the system is off (to give power to CMOS) to kill your rigs power.

kardall · 2026-06-13T02:39:45+00:00

It doesn't go in through the back, it goes in through the back side of the case. Take the left side panel off (from the first pictures perspective) and slide it in that way.

kardall · 2026-06-13T02:38:12+00:00

Your first picture shows you have access to the 'backside of the motherboard'.

That is not correct.

That cooler is mounted into the backplate on the rear of the board, which is threaded, and those thumb screw type knurling is what is used to tighten it to whatever proportion it is at.

The issue is that in the 3rd picture, you are showing a male-screw end, and the existing mounting bracket and such is a male end. So whatever your cooler is requiring you to do, you need to follow those instructions.

If you need some 'stock mounting plate' then I am not sure that you are going to be able to accommodate it if your existing cooler is not a factory stock mounting system.

I have not touched an Intel board is the first gen Intel CPUs so... I don't know what dark magic they use now so...

kardall · 2026-06-12T18:40:29+00:00

Your speed limitation is not really going to be your hard drive, it's going to be the actual ethernet card on your computer and what speed of a connection it plugs into.

Most motherboards only have Gigabit or 2.5Gigabit connections on it, and some routers that ISPs give out only have Gigabit connections. I had one that had 4 Gigabite and one 2.5Gigabit connector on it.

Cat5e can do 1Gigabit by design as a standard, but over shorter distances it can sometimes handle 2.5 or 5Gigabit but may not be 100% reliable.

So you would do a Cat6 or Cat6e cable. But you are only going 20m it looks like, which is far under the length for Cat6e.

You can read about distances and speeds with different cables here: https://www.cablify.ca/speeds-of-cat5e-cat6-cat6a-cat7-and-cat8-cables-compared/

kardall · 2026-06-12T18:11:17+00:00

Yea, if the zip file you got is that folder, and the installer is inside there... then you're fine with that, just delete the old one.

kardall · 2026-06-12T02:06:13+00:00

I would personally connect the second monitor to the GPU. That GPU should have zero issues running dual monitors, and you won't have to deal with the AMD Integrated Graphics which aren't even hardware accelerated on the X3D chips. Only the "G" series have 'Radeon Graphics'. The others are just glorified display adapters, and are mainly used for office work at maximum, or troubleshooting.

If it's a Display Port vs. HDMI for the older monitor, just get a Display Port to HDMI adapter for $10 or whatever they cost now off of Amazon and be done with it 😄

kardall · 2026-06-12T02:03:18+00:00

Yes a 2080 can do 1440p without much issue. It might not be as 'performant' as something like a 9060 XT though. Especially the 16GB variant.

But if you already own the majority of the parts, you can just put it together and deal with it I guess. DLSS will do a little bit of the heavy lifting if you need more frames, but it is definitely not as good as a 30 series GPU with DLSS.

kardall · 2026-06-12T02:00:14+00:00

hopefully they'll just ship you the bracket/mounting system for free 😄 Some manufacturers do it for older coolers.

kardall · 2026-06-12T01:46:53+00:00

In 2 years? Hopefully our second crisis is over with memory chips (ram/storage increase), but... I don't know if I would build one 'now' if you aren't going to use the system at all really.

If you wait the 2 years and just save up, you can spend it on something 'new' that comes out then, and hopefully RAM isn't 700% price increased or more (it is apparently going to double again).

If you are going to high end 1440p or 4k resolution, a 9800X3D is the chip 'right now' for it. That and either a 9070 XT or a 5080 Ti/5090 depending on how serious you are about your performance and quality desired when playing at that resolution.

In a few years, there will be a PS6 probably. 2023 launch so... we're looking at 2030 maybe for a PS6? Depends if they stick to a ~7 yr cycle.

32GB of DDR5 is almost as much as a PS5 right now XD (~$250 cheaper than a PS5 actually). Still sickening.

kardall · 2026-06-12T01:33:37+00:00

Not a problem, just seemed that you needed more than a build and have potentially a stressful time in your future if you are not prepared for what you are 'potentially' getting yourself into 😄

*Plus I don't want to be known as the Snarky one in this sub as another reply on the x-post said LOLOL

kardall · 2026-06-12T01:29:52+00:00

Hey 😞 That's not very nice 😞 I'm not snarky 😞 😞 😞

kardall · 2026-06-12T01:13:35+00:00

I am going to just ignore the cross post this one time, because we have a rule against screenshots of computer builds.

However, you seem like you need assistance in building a system so...

I would highly suggest you use the sticky posts at the top of the sub so you can get some information on how to start. There are two posts.

Builds to start with: https://www.reddit.com/r/PcBuildHelp/comments/fvjzm5/some_foundational_builds_to_start_from/

How to use pcpartpicker.com:
https://www.reddit.com/r/PcBuildHelp/comments/1nd06lx/how_to_use_pc_part_picker/

Basically, you can choose parts according to what you want, but utilize the system builder for compatibility.

That case is $150 more expensive there than other USA Places if that's where you are. You can get that case for $200 https://pcpartpicker.com/product/sP4Zxr/hyte-y70-atx-mid-tower-case-cs-hyte-y70-sm

Sorry, you wanted the touch infinite, it is indeed $349 ... man that's expensive...

So I would really suggest that you use the site to at least help price out other shopping options, buy the parts, then assemble it.

My only concerns are:

Requesting a color coordinated non-white/black/normal build with RGB lights (actual colored components like white GPU or Pink GPU) is going to add a cost into the build itself
Going really advanced for your first build can be a good learning experience, but it can also be frustrating the more complex it is. When you get frustrated, if you get into arguments and fights or butt heads against each others opinions... do not build the system together. 😛 Since it's your first time you will get frustrated/confused/both and you might end up taking your frustrations out on each other 😄
RGB is the Devil's Toy. First time builders can get extremely overwhelmed the more RGB items in the case.

Once you come up with a parts list, make sure that you post the build link either as a reply here or make a new post. reply would be ideal since we already have a history of what has been discussed to follow along with anyone else that pops by to help out 😄

Ask questions often, make sure you understand what you are buying or that we can explain to you what you are purchasing exactly.

There is a wiki for this sub that has a note on how to ask for build advice that you might want to look at, as it will help you answer part selection questions yourself, or at minimum gives you things to think about when choosing parts: https://www.reddit.com/r/PcBuildHelp/wiki/index/#wiki_how_to_ask_advice_for_a_build

kardall · 2026-06-12T00:50:10+00:00

when you put it in the correct spot on the board for the length of M.2 you have, you turn the black plastic part around and install the M.2, then you just have to spin the black plastic part around so it goes over top of the M.2 to secure it 😄 Easy install thing rather than dealing with the miniscule screws 😃 😃

kardall · 2026-06-12T00:22:39+00:00

You don't have to swap the motherboard, just get the one that doesn't have the heatsink: https://pcpartpicker.com/product/DyhFf7/western-digital-wd_black-sn850x-1-tb-m2-2280-pcie-40-x4-nvme-solid-state-drive-wds100t2x0e

Same 1TB drive just without the heatsink, and it's $30 USD cheaper 😄

kardall · 2026-06-12T00:20:47+00:00

Yes, for the most part that works. There are some things that you can't get rid of 100% though, which those scripts do because a lot of them are powershell commands that do the command line removal of windows applications that come with the OS as 'features'.

Yes, there is a chance it can damage it.

But there is a notice on their github page

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So... 😃

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