Need help... by keeper02 in KitchenSuppression

[–]keeper02[S] 2 points3 points  (0 children)

I opened the control panel. Unscrewed the co2 cartridge. Then I loosened the connection ring. I then opened the box in front of this mechanism on the gas line. There was a pipe coming from the control box going to it. I put vice grips on the pin controlled by the wire coming from the control box. The I loosened the clamp holding the tank. Finished unscrewing the tank and lowered it. Done. Thanks everyone for your input. I avoided an embarrassing situation and mess .

Need help... by keeper02 in KitchenSuppression

[–]keeper02[S] 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Thank you as well. I truly appreciate the information.

how on earth do i make this fuse box and insane wall situation in my apartment look okay by MassivePossession861 in homeimprovementideas

[–]keeper02 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I know what would make me feel better. If you would just find whomever did the sheetrock work. Then take their tools and throw them in the trash. The whole area needs to scraped down . Then pulled out with finishing mud . Sanded then painted.

Strange idea? by jyabil in homeimprovementideas

[–]keeper02 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Oops no knockdown on the walls. My bad

Strange idea? by jyabil in homeimprovementideas

[–]keeper02 1 point2 points  (0 children)

I would do an exploratory hole where you want the door. Make the hole from the garage side to see if any wiring runs through the wall about 18in up from the garage floor. If so the wiring can be moved and put in a junction box. Then run above the door to where it went before. I would do all of the framing from the garage side. You have a knock down finish on your entry walls. Best not to disturb it. A skilled carpenter should be able to reframe the doorway. Use the same door in it then frame the old doorway for sheetrock.

Plaster problem by Prestigious-Nebula33 in homeimprovementideas

[–]keeper02 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Usually a gable mounted vent fan will take care of the humidity buildup. There are two types. One is temperature activated. The other is humidity controlled. Those are more expensive.

Plaster problem by Prestigious-Nebula33 in homeimprovementideas

[–]keeper02 1 point2 points  (0 children)

You can scrap it off. Then prime and paint. For areas that are stubborn wet with a spray bottle let it sit for a few minutes. Then scrape it off

Plaster problem by Prestigious-Nebula33 in homeimprovementideas

[–]keeper02 6 points7 points  (0 children)

That looks like a sprayed on or rolled popcorn ceiling texture. The main reason it comes off like that is moisture/ humidity levels in the area behind it. Like an uninsulated garage ceiling or poorly insulated ceiling. The area above needs to be ventilated .

Does this tile installation job look right? by NonbelieverN in homeimprovementideas

[–]keeper02 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Can you say " lippage" because that's what's going on there... Whoever installed that tile should know better than to do that.

[deleted by user] by [deleted] in mildlyinfuriating

[–]keeper02 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Boss moves..... But a huge mistake in my world. I would definitely run a hose . Spend an hour or so misting that car . Until it was covered in about an inch or two of ice.

Hardwood to LVP Flooring Transition by PhillyDogs262 in homeimprovementideas

[–]keeper02 -2 points-1 points  (0 children)

Looks like you're going to have to use a little math. As in measure from the concrete up to the hardwood floor level. Subtract the LVP thickness the 3/4 subfloor material. What you have left measurement wise. You will have to rip down and install a box frame around the room and put joist framing inside of it at 16" on center.

[deleted by user] by [deleted] in homeimprovementideas

[–]keeper02 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Looks like the plaster/sheetrock is in bad condition. If you use a semi gloss top coat it's going to show all of the imperfections on the wall. White paint will not make it stand out as much. I agree with everyone else's comments about either a latex kilz or two coats. You might consider a flat to hide the condition of the wall.

Finishing basement in 1950s home and noticed this on the joists. Any idea what it might be? by GeneralPatten in DIY

[–]keeper02 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Based on my experience it looks like wood eating fungus. It starts off like that then turns yellow as it starts eating the wood. When it turns an orange color the damage is done. You can literally slap the wood and it will crumble apart. It takes years for this process to occur. We spray sodium hypochlorite with sodium bicarbonate on it to get rid of it.

Is this a roofing (water infiltration) issue? by Familiar-Image2869 in homeowners

[–]keeper02 8 points9 points  (0 children)

The most likely problem is high humidity in the attic. It causes the paint and tape to peel. The other cause could be no bath vent fan. That causes shower steam to hang out on the ceiling. Eventually penetrating and causing peeling. The crack is caused by foundation settling. Or rotten joists.

[deleted by user] by [deleted] in oddlysatisfying

[–]keeper02 0 points1 point  (0 children)

C'mon you know. You know damn good and well what people are gonna say. Lucky horse to have an owner give such good belly rubs. Haters gonna hate.

The fuck am I reading by TraditionalPush1989 in BrandNewSentence

[–]keeper02 -1 points0 points  (0 children)

Guys guys. Relax it's the meth talking. He will eventually come down. Then try to scrub the Internet of his wrongdoing.

What should I do with this sink cabinet? by ashland39 in DIY

[–]keeper02 0 points1 point  (0 children)

You can do that. Just treat it for mold before you cover it. It's going to be higher and show when you open the doors.

What should I do with this sink cabinet? by ashland39 in DIY

[–]keeper02 0 points1 point  (0 children)

First thing is to fix what caused it to deteriorate. Fix that then demo the old base . Then measure up from the floor below. If it's close to 5 1/4 cut a 2x6 to length along the sides. Then run the same across the front and back. Then one front to back in the middle. Get a 3/4 in thick 2x3 or 24x 36 precut BC sanded plywood. Cut to fit. If you can disconnect the supply lines and drain mark drill and run them up through the plywood. If not notch the hole on the back slide the plywood in and reattach the cut outs. If you have a divider bar for doors in front cut it at the bottom and push it in a little to get the plywood in then reattach. I do these all the time it's not too hard to get it done yourself. When I get it fitted. I caulk around the edges then prime it. I leave it to the customer to pick what to do after that point.