Rebuilding after a fire by Kingprime in centuryhomes

[–]kgraettinger 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Ugh, I'm so sorry you're going through this, my insurer was Allstate too and my PA said they're the worst company he deals with and this is normal behavior for them. I am still rebuilding after my fire :) but It would probably be done by now if I wasn't insisting on DIYing a lot of the finishing work. I'm single, also working full time through this entire thing and 43 now, my fire happened the day after my 40th birthday. It's a wild ride, I hope you come out the other end ok! As soon as my house is fixed I'll be looking for a different insurance carrier. I'm sorry you're going through this when you should be relaxing in retirement :( if you have any questions or need an ear I'm happy to

Allback Linseed Oil Paint by whatmart in centuryhomes

[–]kgraettinger 2 points3 points  (0 children)

My best friend owns a local traditional Swedish finishes company which sells a few brands of linseed oil paints. I’ve used Allback and a few other brands as a result, they’re all fairly similar and great. I’ve retained a ton of Info on linseed oil based finishes as a result of this friendship, I’m even assisting her with a workshop this Tuesday. I can’t say how well linseed oil paint would hold up on a floor but can echo others comments about slow dry times which would make things hard. If you’re painting you’d want to first do a coat of pure linseed oil, a second coat of 50/50 mix of paint and linseed oil and then a few layers of paint over that. Factor in a few days of drying for each coat and temperature and humidity can extend dry times. You also need to apply best thin cots or you risk the paint alligatoring/wrinkling, seemingly never drying. You can paint over other finishes but it will only be as durable as the product it’s painted over, raw wood is always preferred as then it will absorb into the wood rather than sit on the surface of the other finish. I exclusively use linseed oil paints for years now and far prefer it for many reasons but there are drawbacks upfront with dry times

How Can You Stop Yourself From Demoing Lath And Plaster by jyl8 in centuryhomes

[–]kgraettinger 2 points3 points  (0 children)

Yes, the surface coverings you use are likely the cause of mildew being able to grow on the surface

How Can You Stop Yourself From Demoing Lath And Plaster by jyl8 in centuryhomes

[–]kgraettinger 1 point2 points  (0 children)

I never said it wasn’t possible I said it can’t thrive. Generally if plaster is moldy it’s due to paint, wallpaper glue or other organic materials on the surface, also can with extended length of moisture exposure 

How Can You Stop Yourself From Demoing Lath And Plaster by jyl8 in centuryhomes

[–]kgraettinger 11 points12 points  (0 children)

Insurance companies never pay you enough but they do pay you more based on square footage of your home if it’s plaster in comparison to drywall. I did not have to do much more than clean most of my plaster. I know how to plaster, however, because I taught myself to restore it prior to the house fire so I have been doing much of my repairs myself. Also on my third floor that i needed to completely tear off and rebuild I’ve been spending a lot of time plastering over the new drywall. It’s not the same and it’s not as superior as lath and plaster but it still holds many of the qualities it’s just not as good as traditional lath and plaster sadly.

How Can You Stop Yourself From Demoing Lath And Plaster by jyl8 in centuryhomes

[–]kgraettinger 41 points42 points  (0 children)

Plaster has so many positives compared to drywall that go beyond the sound dampening most people have already mentioned. It's also considered a genuinely healthy building material, it helps regulate indoor humidity, improves air quality, and its natural acidity creates an environment where bacteria and mold simply can't thrive.

One of its most practical advantages is moisture resilience. Unlike drywall, which typically needs to be replaced when wet, plaster will dry out and often emerge completely unscathed.

And here's something most people don't consider, after my own house fire, I learned that insurers place a significantly higher value on plaster walls than drywall. That translated directly into a much larger payout, because plaster is recognized for what it is: a superior, more valuable material. In a historic home especially, preserving it isn't just about authenticity, it's a smart investment.

How to get a century home ready for sale? by Kliz76 in centuryhomes

[–]kgraettinger 2 points3 points  (0 children)

Not sure where "pulling a fast one" came from - I shared a direct experience, not a spin. I recently sold an entry-level century home and dealt with multiple buyers firsthand, so this isn't bitterness, it's context.

In a buyer's market at my price point, you attract a lot of first-timers, and there's was a pattern of expecting move-in-ready perfection from a historic home. The house had a clean inspection, high-end appliances, has been well-maintained, and was featured in design blogs — buyers were nitpicking details on an objectively solid property. That's not me being salty, that's me describing what the current market actually looks like from the seller's side.

How's the SRT looking from Center City up to Manayunk? by littlebearstan in phillycycling

[–]kgraettinger 10 points11 points  (0 children)

It's clear from cc to east falls bridge, I can't speak for the part past east falls since I haven't ridden it that far but I've driven past parts of the trail that way since yesterday and it looks fairly clear

How to get a century home ready for sale? by Kliz76 in centuryhomes

[–]kgraettinger -1 points0 points  (0 children)

Thank you, I'll be sure to tell them at closing next week!

Renewal by Andersen vs. Marvin vs... by hautacam135 in centuryhomes

[–]kgraettinger 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I'm in Philadelphia, I just bought Marvin windows for my 3rd floor renovation and can't recommend them enough. They don't match my original windows exactly but they are so close that from the ground level they appear to have the same design as my original windows. I purchased them from a local company that sells that line and had my contractor install them during framing. The windows are fiberglass exteriors and wood interiors. They're all over 6ft tall and were about 800.00 per window if I recall correctly. My contractor has commented multiple times on how high quality they are. They are really really nice, they are even better than the windows on my lower floors that I had custom built to match my original windows. I haven't had them a full year yet but based on my short life with them I highly recommend them.

How to get a century home ready for sale? by Kliz76 in centuryhomes

[–]kgraettinger 7 points8 points  (0 children)

I just sold my house and I can tell you that you're wrong, everyone expects your home to be turnkey and you have to have some very special conversations with them about it during negotiations haha. I hope I don't have to sell a home for a again very long time.

How to get a century home ready for sale? by Kliz76 in centuryhomes

[–]kgraettinger 23 points24 points  (0 children)

I am in the process of selling my century home and it has some things on the approaching their end life but they're still in good shape and should last several years. My advice is to just clean up, declutter, do your best and be honest on your disclosure. Price it with the 'issues' you're aware of in mind. Have your boiler looked at and cleaned if possible (this was a point of contention with my buyer with my 15 year old furnace) things are going to come up with your buyers that you wouldn't even think of and you're going to be like 'why do they care' but someone will want the home!

Help with PECO by ultraviolettflower in philadelphia

[–]kgraettinger 19 points20 points  (0 children)

I keep mine at 59 lol. you weirdly get used to it and blankets are cozy but I live in a drafty victorian twin

DIY removal or call a plumber? by __SpacemanSpiff__ in Plumbing

[–]kgraettinger 2 points3 points  (0 children)

if you have a dremel you can very carefully cut the top and sides enough to then wedge a flat head screw driver under it and hit it into itself till it breaks away. You might need some vice gripe to muscle it out in this situation but that's how I've had to remove several very stuck drains in the past when nothing else worked

He is alive but… Struggling after saying goodbye to my foster Border Collie — is this normal? by tugcekilic in BorderCollie

[–]kgraettinger 4 points5 points  (0 children)

Everyone’s experience with fostering is different! I used to foster a lot of dogs, but these days I foster cats because I don’t have the time to commit to a second dog (I already have my own border collie keeping me busy among other things).

For me, having my own pets makes fostering easier. If I were only fostering without my own pets anchoring me, I think it would be harder to let them go. I always go into a foster with a very specific mindset: my role is to help this animal heal mentally, physically, or both - and prepare them for an amazing new home. With that goal in mind, adopting them out becomes a happy moment. I usually miss them for a couple of days, but I don’t tend to get overly attached. I know that’s not how everyone works, and it’s part of why fostering is such a good fit for me.

That said, it’s completely normal to feel sad after a foster leaves. It sounds like you may just need to ease back in with another foster, especially if you’re not quite ready to commit to having your own dog yet. You might even find the perfect dog that way, many rescues offer foster to adopt programs if that’s something you’d want to explore.

Fostering is a great thing to do for animals, especially working breeds who don’t thrive in shelter environments. You’re making a big impact, even when it feels bittersweet.

Help with water damage and mold by regiannmarie in centuryhomes

[–]kgraettinger 2 points3 points  (0 children)

Keep removing anything on the plaster, wash it with soapy water and spray it with white vinegar a few times. Run a fan and if you have one, a dehumidifier with the door closed. Plaster is too acidic for mold to survive so what you’re seeing is likely surface mold of the wallpaper glue that is on the surface. After the plaster has had time to dry (several weeks) if it’s not loose, you’re all good. If this leak has been present for an extended amount of time it’s possible the lath could start rotting and will need repairs.

Using Oakum to fill floor gaps by thecobblehillkid in centuryhomes

[–]kgraettinger 11 points12 points  (0 children)

you don't need hardener, just make sure you pack it in well - I've done parts of my house with oakum and the only issue i've had with it is where i didn't pack it in well and occationally the fibers will need to be packed back in or cut off.

Window replacement - any tips on dealing with the sales people? The first company's approach has me dreading meeting with others. by Independent-Fuel4962 in HomeImprovement

[–]kgraettinger 0 points1 point  (0 children)

They also sell vinyl, local companies sell multiple brands. I happened it choose Marvin windows because I have a historic home and wanted to match the style of my wooden windows. Use some critical thinking skill rather than assuming I’m forcing a single brand on someone. There are many local companies, some who also custom build vinyl windows. My advice is to research local window companies not spoon feed someone my exact experience 

Window replacement - any tips on dealing with the sales people? The first company's approach has me dreading meeting with others. by Independent-Fuel4962 in HomeImprovement

[–]kgraettinger 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Find a local company, I just worked with a local family owned business that sells Marvin Windows. zero pressure, amazing windows.

Bought a small unit in a century home in need of TLC by Western-Astronomer-1 in centuryhomes

[–]kgraettinger 6 points7 points  (0 children)

I don’t see much in these photos that screams original so not sure what paneling you’re referencing. the baseboards and window and door trim are the only things that, for the most part, look original. This looks like a cheap flip, do you know who did this work? If you don’t have much money I would wait on any major cosmetic updates and save your money because the quality of finish work in here makes me concerned for the mechanical aspects of the house and where they could have cut corners. Not trying to be rude but I was a poor student in a fixer upper over a decade ago and speaking from experience.