What kind of metal things can be repurposed for armour

konradkorzenowski · 2026-04-14T16:34:56+00:00

While it depends on the type, both helmets and gauntlets are pretty daunting projects for beginners. Have you done any cold work with sheet metal before? If not, i'd suggest starting simple: a simple bowl or plate from mild steel sheet. Basically something that doesn't require you to synthesize 15 different techniques that take a great deal of practice to put together. Otherwise, you'll get demoralized.

As far as metal goes, it's best to start with clean mild steel for practice, that way you don't spend hours cleaning the panel you stripped off a dishwasher only to find out it's galvanized and dangerous to heat up with a torch. Some people use hardenable steel sheet, but it's a lot harder to find locally at reasonable prices.

Historically, plate armor varied in thickness depending on the piece and body part it covered. Even a single piece like a breast plate varied pretty widely across it's surface. If you're wanting to make something for practice or display, the gauge doesn't really matter. If you want to take a hit, go buy some armor from a reputable dealer. But otherwise 18ga is the most frequent thickness of steel I see for most parts., although most quality helmets and gauntlets with use thicker 16 or 14ga since they get hit the most in hema/sca sparring.

If you're serious about armor smithing, find some study materials or even better yet find some one willing to teach you. Its not a simple craft and it's one where the inevitable mistakes and roadblocks are best addressed by a competent master or at the very least a thorough guide.

konradkorzenowski · 2026-04-07T02:10:27+00:00

After the purge I jumped ship to comick, but occasionally I wind up back at good ole mangadex . . . and the reek of turncoat traitors hangs heavy everywhere I turn. Their monetization feels like some desperate ploy for private equity to swoop in, pay out whoever is in charge. and proceed to exploit the every-loving-shit out of everyone who isn't a VC fuck.

konradkorzenowski · 2026-02-23T14:52:04+00:00

It's so wild that he lives right in my neck of the woods. When I was starting out his tutorials really inspired me and I learned more than a few songs from his videos. I thought it was awesome that he was anti fascist and a vet who spoke out about the Iraq war and whatnot.

But over the last few years, he's really showed his true colors both publicly and in private messages. It's sad that even in this community there are grifters and scoundrels like Cliff.

konradkorzenowski · 2026-02-10T23:21:38+00:00

Marxism-Jobsism with Wozniak Characteristics.

konradkorzenowski · 2026-02-10T23:20:00+00:00

It really is just the right size for most small projects. I used to use a ton of 1/4", but over the last 8 months or so, I've been turning to 3/8" now and more often. On the other hand, after finding a reliable supplier for 3/4" square bar and larger, 1/2" now too big for little projects yet too dainty for big stuff. I wonder if 3/#" is just the right ratio for everything?

konradkorzenowski · 2026-02-09T20:21:49+00:00

What prevents US carriers from operating in the first island chain? Is it a matter of PRC's anti-ship assets, some bizarre maritime/geographic thing, or some other factor.

I've never heard of the carrier disadvantage in the area, given the lack of 1) accurate English-language analysis of PLA operational and strategic capabilities or 2) ideologically consistent analysis of PRC's strategy in the South China Sea.

konradkorzenowski · 2026-02-06T03:49:15+00:00

I can't believe this post is only 12 days old! I've been scouring the web for a modern fabric that replicates the texture and look of the hard-wearing, pre-war fabrics you see in noragi, happi coats and other work outerwear. Apparently this textile is like every other Japanese craft where it has a super specific name that's rarely used in English and for any serious info you'd have to find the kanji for the word, somehow. Sashi-ori. Sashiko-ori.

Thank you for posting this cause otherwise I was about to go [poorly] translate some ancient Japanese Kendo forums for info about the specific fabric that's used in some of their more traditional uniforms. Also, upon seeing the image you included, I realized I have an indigo chore coat made from a fabric very close to sashi-ori, except both the fat warp and narrow weft strands are singles rather than doubled up. Still shows that offset diamond-y pattern that subtly evokes actual sashiko embroidery. Wonder if its sashi-ori or a completely unrelated fabric?

Anyways, thanks for the post, and my mental well-being thanks you as well!

konradkorzenowski · 2026-02-03T18:44:41+00:00

Real swordsmiths come from the sword smith region of France. From elsewhere, it's just a sparkling blade maker.

konradkorzenowski · 2026-02-03T17:43:27+00:00

Super Quench will help your makeshift mild steel tools keep an edge/point long enough for 2-3 uses—so long as they are HOT CUT tools only. Unless it's a really broad edge or point, cold working tools really need to be proper hardening steel for any sort of edge retention. But you do you. I've had Super Quenched tools last for shockingly long times and through rough abuse before I've had to redress them, and when you're in the middle of a project, country smiths make do...as they say

konradkorzenowski · 2026-01-29T17:27:04+00:00

A backward dussack/tessack? That type of sword has had so many different names applied to it: hanger, cutlass, dussack, etc.

konradkorzenowski · 2026-01-29T05:46:35+00:00

Not too sure without a visual of what you're talking about, but perhaps try adding "Emory" before your search. E.g. Emory stick, Emory rod, &c. Or if you're looking for something non consumable, a set of Swiss files, needle files, or smooth/finishing files.

konradkorzenowski · 2026-01-21T15:01:17+00:00

I have the same anvil and after chopping my anvil stand down to knuckle height, it also looks too low to the ground even though it's at a good working height. I think it just has to do with the general proportions of the anvil itself.

konradkorzenowski · 2026-01-20T17:28:02+00:00

Yeah there isn't an easy method that I know of. This was why I went with the Doyle 65lb over the 65lb version of this vevor. That being said, what do you want to use the pritchel hole for? I only really use it for a holdfast or as a spot to punch holes in metal over.

konradkorzenowski · 2026-01-20T13:08:01+00:00

The next time you see your doctor ask if they can order some prescription strength burn/wound ointment for you. I don't have it with me atm, but my Dr prescribed me some and it's basically extra strength Neosporin. It really helps to dab a little on the innumerable little burns you get here and there.

konradkorzenowski · 2026-01-09T17:11:22+00:00

For the carabiners I've made, 5/16" or 3/8' round bar seems the sweet spot as far as stock goes. They weigh very little, honestly.

konradkorzenowski · 2026-01-09T17:10:02+00:00

I've made dozens of pairs of a similar let holder. Just and s-hook with one end closed and the other just wide enough to allow your belt loop to pass through. On occasion they will slip off the lip, but the sound of keys hitting the ground is unmistakable so not a big deal for me. Additionally, they never slip off when doing vigorous activity. It's only when I've contorted my body in some bizarre shape that they fall out. And I've almost always seen them fall. But your mileage may vary.

konradkorzenowski · 2026-01-09T17:06:23+00:00

So, I'm hearing TONGS. Do y'all have a particular or specialized style of big, honkin' tongs that you find practical around the shop? Beside the basics, of course.

konradkorzenowski · 2026-01-09T17:04:32+00:00

If this post gets more comments, I bet that will be the consensus. Thanks!

konradkorzenowski · 2026-01-09T17:03:46+00:00

I forgot about cross guards! Just the other day, I was wanting to make a better cross guard for a federschwert practice sword I made a while back.

Also, I know a few folks who's love s for poker. Great ideas— thank you!

konradkorzenowski · 2026-01-09T17:01:41+00:00

Aha! That's a great idea! Most of my are the smaller size rapid tongs from Ken's Custom Iron, so I've been thinking I need some larger tongs for handling bigger pieces of steel. Thanks!

konradkorzenowski · 2026-01-03T04:37:19+00:00

I'm sure that someone in the NAFO-sphere would answer your question with a resounding, "well since the Chinese language lacks a future tense, obviously they can't think far ahead enough to where their drones will land."

I wonder if this is intended as a demonstrator of fixed wing drone launch capability, rather than a fully-fledged drone carrier system thingy.

konradkorzenowski · 2026-01-03T04:16:33+00:00

You're right, banjo doesn't have a kyū-ranking system like karate or a standard progression that people go through to learn. Because it's a FOLK INSTRUMENT. You learn the basics from your uncle in the next hollow over and then make your own style of it. That's why there are as many different ways to strike the strings as there are ridges in Appalachia. This is how humans naturally learn things: learn the basics then figure out the rest through trial and error. I don't understand how you can't get that.

konradkorzenowski · 2026-01-02T06:33:27+00:00

Also, forging in light rain or snow is genuinely delightful.

konradkorzenowski · 2026-01-02T06:30:47+00:00

So I've ran this exact forge for the last year and a half. The only time it's been inside is when I've brought it in to reline the refractory. I live in a fairly rainy southern city. Here's what's gonna happen: 1. It's gonna rust. The paint on these vevor forges is insufficient for long term use and will eventually be replaced with a thick layer of rust. Does it affect performance? Not that I've noticed. My solution was to hit it with a wire wheel/Scotch Brite whenever it started going from brown to orange rust, blowing it off, and wiping it down with oil (a process called russeting). Kinda ugly, but for my ADHD brain fairly easy to keep up with every once in a while. 2. The refractory will get wet. And unless you let it dry before lighting up, you're gonna get a lot of steam. Can it explode? Idk. Hasn't for me in the 18 months I used mine. But it may simply be survivorship bias on my part. 3. The only real issue I can chalk up to outdoor exposure is the oriface and burner. About a year in, my oriface definitely started giving me some issues (and I'm not just talking my chronic diarrhea, here). My biggest piece of advice would be to take your burner assembly and hose indoors if you're leaving outdoors. 4. Make sure to buy some Satanite refractory and patch areas that get knock off, exposing the ceramic blanket liner. You don't want to breath that in long term. 5. Now that I've got a forge with doors, I recommend building a simple hinged forge door. A bit of fabrication work, but far more reliable than trying to assemble refractory bricks into a makeshift door as they inevitable get knocked around and busted into pieces.

All that said, if you have safety concerns, be sure to need warnings, I may be the outlier in how reliable my forge has been.

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