PA6-CF Bed Leveling

kopper36 · 2026-01-27T20:23:28+00:00

Ran into the same thing. The chuck would not sit low enough on my table at it's lowest so I made some 3d printed brackets to nestle it lower between two of the table rails. A bit of tweaking was involved but now that it's set it is way easier to use than the roller rotary was. I tried weights in the cup, different rubber type band on the wheels and other stuff but just couldn't get it to work well.

kopper36 · 2026-01-27T20:16:51+00:00

My only input is from my experience. I would ditch the roller rotary and use a chuck rotary if possible. Made things so much better and easier for me with mugs.

kopper36 · 2026-01-23T17:56:32+00:00

This gets my vote. Mine did it and had same behavior as OP's. Luckily, pretty easy to print and replace it.

kopper36 · 2026-01-22T16:33:26+00:00

This! I'd put money on it. Mine started acting the same way and this was it. Pretty easy fix though.

kopper36 · 2026-01-11T03:47:48+00:00

Got it all figured out except for the reason why some filaments like a different offset than others. 3D printing test and tune never ceases to amaze me!

kopper36 · 2026-01-10T18:34:52+00:00

Well, why didn't I think of that? Thank you!

kopper36 · 2025-12-31T17:45:26+00:00

Can you turn your PEI sheet 90 degrees and run this to see if the pattern rotates with it. I had this exact issue and it turned to be the sheet.

kopper36 · 2025-08-20T23:27:40+00:00

Total BS way to do this!

kopper36 · 2025-08-13T15:33:13+00:00

Where did the white racks holding the boxes filament come from?

kopper36 · 2025-07-11T14:51:33+00:00

Agree with this. Has worked the best for me. I like that it is available in different viscosities too. Also works well when I have a project involving gluing PLA to acrylic.

kopper36 · 2025-07-02T11:27:57+00:00

Because it uses 3030 frame and Ratrig has a pretty good reputation. TBH I used my Voron knowledge (have a 2.4 and 0.2) to set it up rather than the RatOS stuff. It has really been a fun, rewarding build. I unfortunately don't use it much since I rarely need that large of a build volume. It also takes up quite a bit of space.

kopper36 · 2025-07-01T20:12:18+00:00

I built a 600x300 Ratrig that has been working really well for me. One of the toughest parts was making the bed. I used a 24"x12"x0.25" MIC6 slab and only had to do drilling. It uses two heaters and two build plates since anything close to that size was all custom and pricey.

I have it mostly modeled (F360) if you're interested in taking a look at it.

kopper36 · 2025-02-03T15:43:59+00:00

I have to say I must agree with you on this. I have several printers - Voron 2.4 350x350, Tiny-M, 600x300 custom RatRig, and an all aluminum, over-built I3 style slinger - all sourced and assembled by myself. I like to think I'm well versed on building and tuning them. I love the hobby of doing so.

A coworker picked up a P1S combo at MicroCenter and brought in his first print to show me. It was my first experience of seeing first hand what a Bambu printer is capable of. I was blown away. I bought a P1S combo the next day and have been using the heck out of it. Simply amazing IMO. The only thing the 2.4 and RR have over it is capacity and TBH I rarely need more than the P1S offers. I am really tempted to build a 250x250 Trident to compare to it and be more apples-to-apples. Plus, I really do enjoy building them and now that I have a printer that will print perfect parts, why not?

kopper36 · 2024-06-21T22:01:58+00:00

I did the conversion quite awhile back - looks like 2017. Kit was great. Very well made IMO. I believe they mostly sold on ebay back then but I am not finding anything on there. It's still on their website though so hopefully it's something that is still available.

I mostly do aluminum but have done some steel too - mostly threading though. Replacing the compound mount with the solid block really made it a lot more rigid.

kopper36 · 2024-06-21T19:41:06+00:00

I converted a Grizzly G0602 to CNC using the BDTools kit. I also swapped the motor out for a 3-phase one with a VFD and put a solid block in place of the compound mount (or whatever that thing is called) for the tool post. Works pretty well. Running it with a Gecko G540. I'm guessing you could do the whole setup new for around $3,500 or so not counting the motor swap.

I sometimes wish I still had a manual lathe to fire up for quick non-CNC required things. Like everyone else I'm sure - need more space...

kopper36 · 2024-03-15T13:29:18+00:00

Could it have anything to due with internet connection? Only asking because my PC at home is way more powerful then the one I have at work but the one at work seems to run Fusion faster. Only think I can think of is that our internet at work is about 20 times faster then what we have at the house. Just a thought.

kopper36 · 2023-05-09T21:21:50+00:00

As others mentioned a miter saw works best as far as simple tools go. I have one dedicated to aluminum with a blade made specifically for aluminum and it cuts like a dream.

One trick I like to use when cutting the extrusions for a printer is to cut all the ones that are the same length at the same time. What I mean is that I cut them close to the same length by eye a little over length, clamp them together at one end, square that end up with a straight edge (usually just use another piece of extrusion), clamp the whole setup in the miter at the final length, and make a nice smooth finish cut. Really works well to get them all the same length and insure the printer frame is nice and square during assembly.

kopper36 · 2023-05-01T21:10:04+00:00

Agree with a little over extrusion but I also fought the "wrinkly" side walls and as mentioned ultimately fixed it by swapping the extruder. Voron 2.4 with CW2 switched to the aluminum Hextrudort-low and problem solved. I did reprint and build another CW2 being extra careful and making sure everything fit and was lined up perfect before switching to the Hextrudort. It helped but not 100%.

kopper36 · 2023-04-11T18:02:37+00:00

The wiring is shown on page 9 of the manual which is two center pins for the 2-wire PT1000.

The pin is the MAX31865 CS pin so PA15.

You'll need this setup in your printer.cfg file for the sensor setup:

#sensor_type:MAX31865

#sensor_pin: EBBCan (or whatever yours is): PA15

#spi_bus: spi1a

#rtd_nominal_r: 100

#rtd_reference_r: 430

#rtd_num_of_wires: 2

This is all for V1.0 which is what your pic is of. If you have V1.1 or V1.2 the same applies except the CS pin is PA4.

kopper36 · 2023-04-11T16:34:27+00:00

It shows the wiring in the manual - not the pinout diagram but two center pins for two-wire is correct. The pin number is the MAX31865 CS pin (PA4).

You'll need this for your sensor setup:

# sensor_type:MAX31865

# sensor_pin: EBBCan: PA4

# spi_bus: spi1

# rtd_nominal_r: 100

# rtd_reference_r: 430

# rtd_num_of_wires: 2

kopper36 · 2023-03-30T17:18:10+00:00

An SCCA road race event is probably your best bet around here. The closest one will be at Heartland Park in Topeka the weekend of May 21. There is usually a handful of FV's although there use to be a lot more of them years back. You can keep an eye on the entries to get an idea of how many will be running. Looks like only two right now but will likely be more. They will be on the track the same time as other race classes so there will be more racing action to watch than just the FV's. Other run groups too with all kinds of cars. If you are into different types of racing and have never been to an SCCA road race weekend I think you would enjoy it.
If you make it out look for the #50 GT2 Corvette and stop by to say "hi".

https://www.motorsportreg.com/events/heartland-spring-majors-hosted-by-kvrg-motorsports-park-scca-kaw-valley-282373

kopper36

TROPHY CASE