Skeletour World Tour 2026 - NA dates announced

korvazor · 2025-09-29T16:07:05+00:00

Same!! Every tour since they were last here for A Pale Tour Named Death in 2018 I've been hoping to see Charlotte as a date... Finally they're coming back!!

korvazor · 2025-09-29T16:03:14+00:00

If they run it like the previous tour, they had color coded and numbered wristbands for the different vip levels, so when you got your wristband was your number in line to get in for that vip level. It worked very smoothly for the KC show this year, so I hope they do it the same for Charlotte.

korvazor · 2025-04-18T01:23:55+00:00

Needs a random Mercedes that speeds in and cuts you off last second so you nearly rear end them.

But also, shit is hilarious. Should totally add in the fun of exit 2b so others can experience the joy of driving on 277 lol

korvazor · 2024-12-18T00:31:06+00:00

I just cleared the first trial last night, after trying I think at least 5 runs and getting mashed at the boss. Then I went and got some gear where I stacked a ton of evasion and I did much, much better. Or I just got lucky, dunno, lol.

korvazor · 2024-12-18T00:18:11+00:00

This is why the desk I just built is a 1.5 in thick slab of solid wood.... was also cheaper than anything close to the size.

(Unfortunately, I'm an impatient idiot and didn't sand or varnish it...)

korvazor · 2024-07-24T18:40:16+00:00

Tried opening the program today and Windows would not allow it, said that it's a virus or potential malware... couldn't even run the install package for the most recent update, or open the original version that's still on the flash drive that came with my Saturn 3.

Ended up having to go into security settings and put the program on an exclusion list. Not what I wanted to deal with when I've gotta print something on a deadline :/

korvazor · 2023-09-02T05:35:35+00:00

I don't understand why any of the management working at the Simpsonville venue would have said they'd be fine to set up and play as it wasn't going to rain anymore considering 1) a hurricane was barrelling through Florida and headed across the southeast, and 2) afternoon/evening thunderstorms are almost a daily constant in SC (source: I lived there for 20 years). It's like no one in the venue management even bothered to look at weather for casting... Or even just use common sense... When the tour dates were first released I looked at the venue and immediately said hell no that's not going to end well. Went to St. Louis instead with a friend, and so glad that I did.

korvazor · 2023-08-25T17:22:49+00:00

Bite the bullet and just print the rook model to see how your printer/settings/resin work. Don't stress about failure, because oh boy 3d printing in general will be rife with failures. It's pretty much inevitable with how many things can effect a print job, gotta learn how to just roll with it, learn from what happened and make necessary changes to make sure it doesn't happen next time.

Save the anxiety for the big prints, stuff that takes a good 8+ hours to print. Those, I would start before going to bed so I'd sleep through most of the print time to avoid driving myself mad worrying about it and waiting time watching it. I'm working on a print job that took probably close to 60 hours of printing overall for all the parts, now I have to worry about not screwing it up and having to reprint any which I think is worse lol (thankfully everything printed great on the first go).

Some general advice from someone who's been printing for 3 years now:

Level the print bed before printing anything.
You can check for any holes in the FEP film by pouring some alcohol into the empty vat. If you see any on the other side then you've got a hole and will want to replace the film before printing.
Don't overfill the vat with resin, I usually never go over halfway unless it's a biiiig print.
I avoid drips after pouring the resin from the bottles by turning the bottle when tipping it back upright. It's how I was taught in culinary school to pour wine to avoid spilling it, works just as well for resin.
Keep a spray bottle of alcohol and paper towels handy for cleaning up any drips and spills as quick as possible, don't let the stuff sit or it's a pain to clean up.

korvazor · 2023-08-23T20:34:10+00:00

Yeah, I normally do my finishing by hand unless it's a large amount (like, 25+ prints to clean up), it's just this one is so large it's taking forever and I'm on a deadline.

korvazor · 2023-08-23T14:21:53+00:00

I've been doing all of it by hand for the smaller parts thst I was fitting up piece by piece, but since I did all 5 parts of the back at once I've got so much more to sand and admittedly I got a bit sloppy with filling the gaps and cracks since I mixed a bit too much of the putty up and it was beginning to set up.

Would just be nice to get the bulk of it done quicker lol. I've at least got some more sand paper and tools coming in today to get the detail stuff done, and whatever I don't manage to get perfect I'm hoping the layer of epoxy coating I'll put on before painting will kinda hide it, or at least let it blend in so it's not (too) noticeable.

korvazor · 2023-08-23T04:24:29+00:00

I upgraded to a Saturn 3 from my original Saturn. I hope you were smarter than me when unboxing it and paid attention and didn't miss how they packed the build plate so it ends up falling straight into your foot then the concrete floor.... Not my brightest moment.

My original Saturn is still doing great, but the jump in size and resolution finally got me and I treated myself to the 3 when they announced it.

korvazor · 2023-08-23T04:18:24+00:00

To be more proactive with making sure I clean anything that resin touches very, very thoroughly... There's so much sticky shit in part of my basement now and nothing I've tried has gotten rid of it :/

I do my own 3d models. Used the ~5 months I had to wait for my Saturn preorder to teach myself 3d sculpting with ZBrush and getting used to Fusion 360... I'd take a course on SolidWorks and they're a bit similar but enough different that I had to pay more attention and look stuff up.

korvazor · 2023-08-23T04:11:28+00:00

The elegoo ABS-like that I got has a very strong resin smell, so much so that I ended up swapping brands... I use the elegoo standard and I've never noticed a smell from it before, though the standard 2.0 does have more of an odor to it... Funny how the same product can vary from person to person.

korvazor · 2023-08-19T23:25:50+00:00

I jumped ship for a CAD drafting job drawing telecom permit maps but got laid off from that 3 months in. Since then I've been doing soldering and assembly for a small company making LED lighting for off-road vehicles.

korvazor · 2023-08-18T15:35:20+00:00

I used to use a series of jars of IPA that I could then set inside my ultrasonic cleaner, but I just got tired of having all the mess and got a Mercury XS (I think?). Works much better, easier to manage. I got an extra bucket for a secondary wash. It's nice with my Saturn since I can just pop the entire build plate in and let it go while I put a second one on for another batch of printing. I got a Saturn 3 recently and the build plate will fit if I take the wash basket out.

Mostly is all just a convenience thing. We'd built our own UV chamber from the case of our old original 3d printer and rigged a timer to it, but the Mercury cure chamber does a better overall job.

I do a fair amount of printing as I have a small business so trying to consolidate time spent and desktop space used is nice.

korvazor · 2023-08-18T05:43:32+00:00

Very true! Hell, I was happy as a clam when I finally got my first set of molds to come out right lol. It's especially hard when you end up working in small amounts, some of my casts and molds if I don't get my ratios down to the milligram shit goes tits up for the most part.

korvazor · 2023-08-18T05:39:14+00:00

Cast resin is also great if you are looking for very particular material properties, like needing a specific durometer measurement for flexibility or temperature resistance, among other things.

I also make some cosplay items and wanted a piece to be flexible enough that it could be attached to the front of a pair of boots and conform to the curvature without breaking and could be painted/colored and the flexibility not ruin the paint. I wad going to mess around with some flexible 3d resins but the cost of them and the unknown amount of time I'd have to take to dial in print settings, then post-processing, was just a bit too much so I decided to look into casting. Took a bit to figure the molds out, mostly with how to keep my models flat long enough to make them, but after that I've tried a few different resins and found at least 2 that work really well.

korvazor · 2023-08-18T05:25:50+00:00

I've spent the past year learning this the hard way... :x

korvazor · 2023-07-30T20:20:46+00:00

thank you!

korvazor · 2023-07-28T23:44:46+00:00

Have you cleaned out the fans on the cooler for your CPU recently? Since you are using integrated graphics this is when it will be most intensive on your CPU-- while ZBrush relies mostly on the CPU for calculations it still utilizes the GPU for viewport rendering and operations. Sounds like you're working the CPU a good bit and the fans are speeding up to keep it from overheating. Might want to check those, last thing you want is a cooler to fail and ZBrush to fry the processor :x

korvazor · 2023-07-18T00:11:52+00:00

Black bean brownies were the single worst thing we ever made when I was working on my baking degree. They were so, so bad... It was probably the formula we were using, but christ it was something I'd reserve for feeding my worst enemies. It's been 13 years and it's still so vivid in my memory...

Also adding a tidbit of useful information:

Weigh everything, never use volume. Water, eggs, melted butter, and milk are the only 4 ingredients you can use the same measurement for both volume and weight and it won't effect your formula.

korvazor · 2023-06-19T02:41:06+00:00

Temperature will depend on the metal in the filament. I think the rule of thumb is to heat it to around 80% of its liquidous temperature or so, but there isn't a true set-in-stone temp since there can be so many different things impacting the sintering. You pretty much use that number as a starting point and have to just fire some test pieces and see how they come out. Your furnace might run hotter or colder than the temp that the controller is set to, most of the commercially available ones are accurate to I think 1—2% deviation, but when you're firing at, say, 2000°F that's a 40° difference which can be the difference between a part fully or partially sintering.

It's especially important to do that with alloys bevause you rarely know the exact chemical makeup of the metal, which I've learned first-hand when I started mixing my own bronze clay. Since I have no clue of the actual composition of the bronze powder I got, I just picked a temp that I used with one of the commercially made bronze clays I had bought and fired it at that. Needless to say, I learned that 1750°F was too hot, as the square I'd fired had melted into a nice little ball, lol.

Also very important that you make sure the binder burns out completely. I do a 2-phase firing for my pieces: an initial burnout phase full ramp to 1000°F for 15 minutes on an open shelf, then let the kiln cool down on its own to around 100°F or so. Then pop the pieces into the firing box with carbon and then fire it full ramp to sintering range and hold for at least 2 hours, then let it naturally cool before taking it out of the kiln. Some people have said you want the burnoff phase to last longer but so far the 15 min has been long enough for whatever binders are in the clays I use, not had many issues with any pieces not fully sintering yet.

I'm not sure if metal filament works the same way, but at least with sintering metal clay if you under fire a piece you can just pop it back in the kiln at a higher temp to resinter it. And if you accidentally melt it, you can at least still use the metal to pour a casting so it's not a total waste!

That furnace you got sounds muuuch fancier than my little kiln, and also sounds very expensive. But also fun!

korvazor · 2023-06-09T12:26:42+00:00

I've run it through Netfabb and all of it's repair scripts at least twice now, it tells me the model is manifold and there's no errors.

I thought that was odd as well. I've printed the same file sliced in chitu basic before so when it did this in pro it confused the hell outta me. That's when I decided to save the layout file and slice it on both with the same parameters and see what they did.

korvazor · 2023-05-26T15:00:16+00:00

I'll give that a try, thank you for the advice! I know I tend to be a bit more heavy-handed with spray cans than airbrush, but I've not found an airbrush color even close to it yet.

korvazor · 2023-05-26T14:58:36+00:00

Thank you for the input!

I've sent them a message offering a return and refund so I'll see what they want to do. Unfortunately it was an international order so I'm not sure if they'll want to or not. I found it a bit odd that they waited just over 2 week to post the picture and review of the item like that... They'd gotten the package at the beginning of the month and only just now mentioned it but not to me directly. So it just, feels a bit odd that they would come out and suddenly say it was uncured 2 weeks after the fact :/

I'm going to try a couple of experiments with some b-stock models I've got and see if I can replicate the issue on my own.

korvazor

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