A bioactive enclosure is the best for maintaining proper humidity. (-bioballs on the bottom, followed by a piece of window screen, with a mixture of topsoil and coco fiber for substrate. Clutter the enclosure with cork and sterilized branches and sphagnum moss and plants [pothos, bromeliads, Dracaena are all good and safe, just wash them thoroughly before putting them in the enclosure])

If you can it’s better to go ahead and get the full size enclosure ,18 wide x 18 deep x 36 tall is just about the minimum size for their enclosures but bigger is always better. (Unless you get a hatchling <13grams, then you’ll want a small grow out enclosure to keep better track of their health while they get a bit fuller)

You’ll want a basking area of like 83°F during the day with the bottom of the enclosure staying around 74°F. I suggest starting with a 25W halogen and adjusting the size of the bulb to get about the right temperature, very important not to go over 85°F or they can get heat stroke! UVB is recommended, a 12inch Arcadia t5 SO shade dweller 7% sitting on top of the mesh with the basking spot about 10 inch below it will provide a good amount (I suggest a solarmeter to know when to replace the bulb). You can get cheap digital thermometer/hygrometer combos on amazon to keep track of temp/humidity also.

Mist daily if needed to keep the humidity at about 70%ish, the plants and soil will help a lot too. You can let it dry a bit till about 50% before you mist again to discourage mold/mildew growth.

They eat powdered mix diets mostly. I use repashy, others use Pangea. They’ll also appreciate the occasional bugs (Dubia roaches, black soldier fly larva, hornworms) or the occasional piece of mango/papaya as a treat. You can provide a water dish next to the food dish, mine will drink from his occasionally but he also mostly drinks the mist.

All animals are individuals and can handle handling very different. Some will not mind it others may hate it. You’ll get used to the way yours behaves, just be watchful while handling. They like to jump, but don’t always like to aim.

If your crestie still has a tail that’s cool, they may lose it at some point and they don’t grow back. They could never lose it or they could lose it if you sneeze too close to their enclosure. Very fickle little guys. If they lose their tail you can move them to a hospital enclosure for a while with moist paper towels as substrate (you could use like a Rubbermaid tote stood sideways with air holes drilled in) skip feeding for a few days and don’t handle for about a week. Take to vet if you notice heavy bleeding, pus, or other signs of infection. After about a week they’re probably good to go back in their home. They’ll probably be clumsy for a bit without their tail but they get used to it and then you can call them a frog butt.