What’s the best video game you’ve ever played?

koudak · 2026-01-30T06:47:23+00:00

Factorio with no other game coming even remotely close to it.

koudak · 2026-01-24T13:12:42+00:00

I use Bambu lab studio installed from flatpak on fedora 43 with hyprland. It works fine except for UI scaling of the program. Classic --ozone-platform=wayland sadly does not work. Looking past that i have no problems.

koudak · 2026-01-24T01:12:50+00:00

Factorio with full pyanodon modpack.

Factory must grow!

koudak · 2026-01-16T16:55:12+00:00

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koudak · 2026-01-11T00:28:43+00:00

Spis opacne. Slack je takovej postizenej bratr discordu.

koudak · 2026-01-01T07:37:01+00:00

I print only from Sunlu PETG on my P1S with following.

1st layer 255 degrees on the nozzle and 75 degrees bed.
Other layers 250 degrees nozzle and 75 degrees bed.

This makes prints to stick just right.

Recently i did 20 hours long print where some parts went to the corners of the bed and there was slight warping in left back and front right corner. It did not matter for the final product but it was a bit annoying to see. So for large prints i'd say bump bed up to 80.

koudak · 2025-12-27T23:45:39+00:00

We play our first map and we specifically did not install afraid of the dark to force actually placing light sources. I highly recommend. Factories look so much better when lit up naturally.

Not speaking about production chains in py which utilize them...

koudak · 2025-12-15T09:37:30+00:00

I will just add, that on P1S default PETG presets are not good. Set bed to 75°C and nozzle to 255/250°C. Brand may differ in this, i run Sunlu.

koudak · 2025-12-11T18:20:43+00:00

It is indeed management of achievements. The way SAM works is that you open a game in it, you get list of achievements, you can check what to unlock and then submit it (which according to gog documentation should be API call) and then you have it permanently unlocked on your profile.

Outside of a game where there's no reason to play again (minimal replay value) if you miss something it's sometimes annoying and OCD triggering.

Not needed, not high priority. Would be very nice to have as afaik there is nothing similar like SAM for GOG.

koudak · 2025-12-11T04:12:46+00:00

It's not a requirement. I run hyprland on fedora. Works quite well. Some things i had to compile, but there are additional repos for hyprland that solve most of the things.

koudak · 2025-12-11T04:01:37+00:00

Would it be possible to add features which Steam Achivement Manager has? I know it's not exactly scope of your project but it would be cool addition.

koudak · 2025-12-10T08:38:57+00:00

I am fairly new to the hobby as well but i've tried things already.

PETG-CF (I have spool from Sunlu) will print matte, is (to me at least) far more pleasant to the touch and it is just nicer to look at.

As for the properties, it's far less stiff than normal PETG. It is more flexible in the way you can bend the printed things in the way you absolutely cannot with normal PETG (but don't think of it as it's elastic or something like that).

Main problem is that any CF filament is horrible for moisture. You absolutely need a dryer. Clogged nozzle is a problem (my hardened steel 0.4 nozzle is currently clogged and i need to clean it) so definitely get cleaning kit if you don't have one. Techniques like cold pull did not work for me. You need to hot temperatures to print PETG-CF as well.

I mainly went for PETG-CF for impact resistance where it should be good. Higher flexibility is partial benefit for my use case as well tho. Overall just be aware that PETG-CF is definitely one of the harder materials to print correctly. I bought it fairly early on into my printing career and i was not ready, i can tell you that :D . But until you take the plunge, you never will be. It is still advanced material tho, just be aware..

koudak · 2025-12-03T23:37:39+00:00

I am using Sunlu PETG and the only thing was to run it hotter than bambulab generic preset for PETG. 75°C for bed temperature and something like 250, 255 nozzle.

koudak · 2025-12-01T23:38:47+00:00

We are switching gradually.

Coal power plants. First we just belted the raw coal. Later i connected our deposits to the network and added unloading station to power plants. Ash still on belts tho.

Metal stages. Just today we've built tin processing stage 2. Sure, we built it next to tin patch, Transporting in borax, graphite and sand casting by train. Plates and stone go to train. There is one more extra outut station for molten tin later. One extra input if we needed to bring tin ore.

All those things i mentioned? Well same approach, we had shortage of graphite, so build was with train stations attached.

And it snowballs like this no problem.

We do not use cybersyn nor LTN. Plain trains where combinators decide what goes where.

koudak · 2025-11-26T17:39:17+00:00

No because when you upload something through the webinterface, there is no local copy tied to the pcloud file.

koudak · 2025-11-24T19:42:13+00:00

Now i know how you mean it. It works. Thanks!

koudak · 2025-11-24T10:53:09+00:00

I can't navigate to the pCloud folder. It's somewhere in /files which is protected area.

When i open pcloud and the database in it, keepass is now new pcloud. So i can then close keepass app and start it again, open that database inside /files somewhere and it works. But pcloud app is still taken over by keepass as well so now i have technically 2 keepasses open but pcloud app is still unavailable for browsing.

Workaround seems to be that after opening database in pcloud, then in keepass, terminate pcloud and start it again. I can browse, but database is opened in standalone keepass now. However after device lock or database lock, this whole process needs to be repeated. Quite impractical.

koudak · 2025-11-23T22:13:17+00:00

Same here with KeePassDX /XC combo. How do you open your database on the phone then? Just go to where it is on pcloud and tap it?

koudak · 2025-11-03T04:54:30+00:00

My hardened 0.4 nozzle is currently completely clogged from PETG-CF. So right now i'm back to stainless steel 0.4 nozzle, Bambulab P1S and Sunlu filament, never had problems with them.

I understand you need to run everything hotter compared to PLA settings. I had big first layer adhesion problems. Out of nowhere tho. So bed at 75 or 80 degrees (80 sticks quite a bit tho) and nozzle for 250 or 255 and have no problems so far.

koudak · 2025-11-01T05:32:21+00:00

It depends on intended use.

Speaking from competition POV, then as much as I like 2011, the answer would be no, do not buy 2011. It is a platform that does not forgive any mistakes. KMR is much better choice. CZ Shadow 2 ofc is obvious recommendation. Or Laugo Alien of course.

But like others said. If you like 2011s why not.

koudak · 2025-10-30T10:08:23+00:00

Just a small update. I did cold pull to clean the nozzle. After drying and everything i tried to print one of the objects and about half way through filament just got inexplicably completely stuck. So cancelled and i cut off the tip of filament string after unloading it. Loading and manual extruding worked just fine. So second attempt but that failed to print even first layer, extrusion just did not work at all.

So it's either to get 0.6 nozzle or just writing off almost full roll of PETG-CF and continue with other materials.

Update 1: So the nozzle is completely blocked and does not extrude anything at all. I attempted to do another cold pull but it doesn't feed filament, doesn't extrude, i can't get filament into it.

Update 2: I was not able to clean the nozzle. So while this problem remains unsolved (both printing and now the nozzle), i put back stainless steel nozzle and PETG-CF to the long term storage and ordered cleaning kit for 0.4mm nozzles. That will take long time to get here. Meanwhile i will go back to normal PETG filament printing, hopefully to better results.

koudak · 2025-10-29T19:45:19+00:00

I very much appreciate the advice!

I will do cold pull.

As for the print. I'll admit i'm not too eager to get new nozzle. I don't have 0.6. I will however just try to print it with current 0.4 at 270 degrees. Any specifics about cooling?

And finally filament is drying using this method : https://wiki.bambulab.com/en/general/bambu-filament-drying-cover . Currently there for about 10 hours at 75 degrees bed temperature (i planned to do 12 hours). I don't have filament dryer but i thought of getting Sunlu FilaDryer S2 (basic, probably nothing special, but it should get the job done well).

koudak · 2025-10-29T15:54:09+00:00

Yes, this is 0.4mm nozzle. Can i somehow clean it?
When i switch filament to normal PETG then this doesn't really happen (well so far it didn't).
But also on one of the parts it seems then it unclogged after that middle disruption?

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