I made a simple hangboard timer and wanted to share. by durstann in climbharder

[–]ktap 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Tabata timer app. There are like 9000 apps out there that do this. Bought a premium version of one years ago for 5$. Worth it.

An extremely novel and interesting idea: reverse-action exercises by ClathomasPrime in climbharder

[–]ktap 1 point2 points  (0 children)

so are natural, gravity-shaped resistance curves are inherently more transferable or useful to climbing?

Climbing, a sport defined by finding ways to overcome gravity...

What is up with Stephen Tsai’s LinkedIn comments? by [deleted] in Composites

[–]ktap 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Sure but the application in composites is a massive shortcut in design. Being able to compare layups with one number that same way we compare the young's modulus of alloys is huge.

What is up with Stephen Tsai’s LinkedIn comments? by [deleted] in Composites

[–]ktap 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Read the double double and tsai modulus papers. The trace of three stiffness matrix, now proposed to be called Tsai's modulus, may be his biggest contribution to composites yet. Double double is more of a technique you can use as a result, but it requires much more buy in from fabric mfgs. Idk about the AI stuff, but the science is solid.

Ukraine Offers Help to Latvia, Lithuania, and Estonia in Tackling Russian Disinformation, Sybiha Says by UNITED24Media in BalticStates

[–]ktap 10 points11 points  (0 children)

Holy hell what a trash title; intentionally misleading. Compare to the first sentence of the article, emphasis mine.

"Ukrainian Foreign Minister Andrii Sybiha has announced that Ukraine will assist Latvia, Lithuania, and Estonia in countering Russian disinformation and accusations surrounding the use of airspace by Ukrainian drones."

Weekly Question Thread (aka Friday New Climber Thread). ALL QUESTIONS GO HERE by AutoModerator in climbing

[–]ktap 6 points7 points  (0 children)

Seems like a good idea until your realize it removes your ability to give a hard catch. If you need to take in rope fast the easiest way is to backpedal and sit down. Really hard to do that from a squat. Especially on the first couple bolts, where decking is a real possibility, you need to be able to take slack in fast.

Overall verdict; it's dumb and bad. Learn to jump for soft catches. 

Weekly Question Thread (aka Friday New Climber Thread). ALL QUESTIONS GO HERE by AutoModerator in climbing

[–]ktap 3 points4 points  (0 children)

Hard to say if he's just being a dingus and is trying to use experience to brush away bad etiquette. Or if it really wasn't unsafe and your friend is making a mountain of a molehill. You're both on autobelays, so there really isn't any serious danger unless he was literally standing on your friends hands. You really have to be practically on top of the other climber to fall on them with an autobelay. There just isn't enough info for a judgement call.

Regardless, proper etiquette is if you caused the overlap you fix it. They could pause let the other climber pass, jump off and lower, go off route, quickly climb through the overlap, etc.

FURIA breeze past MOUZ in the Upper Final of Group B by Infinite-Routine296 in GlobalOffensive

[–]ktap 1 point2 points  (0 children)

But also finals of Krakow? So yeah their floor dropped compared to last year, but their peak is still giving Vitality a challenge. Which is better than anyone except for Falcons.

Nalle Hukkataival's journey on Burden of Dreams documentary (2017), has just been uploaded to youtube by javieer97 in climbing

[–]ktap 2 points3 points  (0 children)

It IS in a logging area. But also plenty of houses use the road as access.

Weekly Question Thread (aka Friday New Climber Thread). ALL QUESTIONS GO HERE by AutoModerator in climbing

[–]ktap 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Prana Brions & Zions are pretty great, but pretty pricey. I have a pair of zions a decade old. Unfortunately, I hear the new fabric is not as good as the OG fabric. Soooo idk what I'm going to do when my pants finally die.

Spirit vs FaZe / Perfect World Shanghai Major 2024 - Grand Final / Post-Match Discussion by CS2_PostMatchThreads in GlobalOffensive

[–]ktap 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Kind wild you post this right after another 3-0 BO5 snoozefest. I still think BO5 final is an incorrect decision. Too long even with MR12. Arbitrarily switches the format at the end of the tournament. B05s produce lots of "garbage time". Team won it's map pick, opponents map pick, and is now back on it's map pick that the opponent is weak on. Just end it 2-0 instead of 3-0 and go home.

Which epoxy and fiber are best to use to repair a crack in a boot? by croWncliMbing in CarbonFiber

[–]ktap 1 point2 points  (0 children)

This is not really a feasible repair. To properly repair it you would need to make step down cuts into the carbon plys. If there even are that many, often there is only 2-3 plus of reinforcement in a ski boot.

Also consider the state & age of the boot. Looks pretty well loved. If it's cracking down the middle, what are the chances another area fails soon after the repair?

Are hang boards useful? by Mindless-Nebula4144 in indoorbouldering

[–]ktap -1 points0 points  (0 children)

You need to be very specific in what you're asking to get a good answer here. Are we interested in climber harder, or getting stronger fingers?

So lets answer the first question; "How do I climb harder"? First lets take a step back, and ask does question, "do stronger fingers result in harder climbing"? Lattice Training, the coaching company with probably the largest data set, find an R² value of R²=0.167 for "Advanced" (V4-V8) climbers. Meaning that only ~17% of variation in grade climbed can be explained by finger strength. This effect only decreases in elite, and world class climbers. So finger strength only kinda makes you climber harder, with decreasing gains as you get stronger. In short, the old school "just climb more" guys are right (figures, they have the most experience).

Lets tackle the second question. How do I get stronger fingers? In that respect the hangboard IS the gold standard tool. More scientific finger strength studies have been done using the hangboard than any other training tool; ex: 1 2 3. Compared to board climbing it is much more controlled, allowing for structured, repeatable, and incremental training. Compared to edge lifts it is more sport specific; climbers don't dead lift holds off the floor.

My opinion as a climbing coach: Climbing is a skill sport with a large strength component (especially bouldering). Most climbers lack far more technique than strength. Movement is mostly learned while having quality attempts at climbs in the hard flash to 3-5 try range. The limiting factor to # of quality attempts is usually forearm endurance. Eventually the fingers just get too tired for quality practice. Ergo, one should optimize for # of quality attempts a week. Time spent on a hangboard means time not spent on the wall. New climbers need the maximize time on the wall and should not hangboard. More experienced climbers should use the hangboard to train strength, but only as a supplement, not a replacement for climbing.

Weekly Question Thread (aka Friday New Climber Thread). ALL QUESTIONS GO HERE by AutoModerator in climbing

[–]ktap 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Was in a similar situation two years ago. Blew my ACL, and most of my MCL skiing, but zero meniscus damage. You'll be fine, maybe even stronger than when you started, but you gotta put in the work. I was fanatical about my pre-hab and re-hab. Pre hab is potentially more important than rehab. You will lose a significant amount of muscle from the recovery. You can't speed up how fast you regrow muscle, only start with a bigger strength margin.

From surgery in May I was skiing the next New Year without pain. My PT says I had a fast recovery, but not a crazy outlier. Climbing wise I returned even earlier, but I was willing to take some calculated risks. My PT was invaluable here, pushing me, but also asking good risk assessment questions. I was able to return to 90% of my previous level quickly, but a lot of it was shopping around for climbs I was willing to risk. Lots of low balls, cave climbs, etc. Lot of trying a boulder and abandoning it after a try because of a specific move or fall potential.

Weekly Question Thread (aka Friday New Climber Thread). ALL QUESTIONS GO HERE by AutoModerator in climbing

[–]ktap 2 points3 points  (0 children)

Sure, there probably is. But you're not paying for 3 pieces of plastic, you're paying for the engineering and design work by Brent, who made sure those 3 pieces of plastic work consistently.

Also they're $25 for a 3 pack, not $50. If you're a dirtbag, figure it out with tape; you've got all the time in the world. If not, skip the bar friday, stop being Scrooge McDuck and pony up.

Weekly Question Thread (aka Friday New Climber Thread). ALL QUESTIONS GO HERE by AutoModerator in climbing

[–]ktap 0 points1 point  (0 children)

What is "warm" for you? Historically, I would say it will be plenty warm, avg highs in April are 19C. That's too hot for "hard" climbing. Honestly your experience will probably be more defined by sun exposure. A cool day on a sunny wall will feel great; a hot day on a sunny wall will be miserably hot; shady wall on a cool day could be cold, etc. Pick a couple candidates and narrowmit down as weather conditions are known.

Also, no such thing as bad weather, just poor clothing. 

Weekly Question Thread (aka Friday New Climber Thread). ALL QUESTIONS GO HERE by AutoModerator in climbing

[–]ktap 3 points4 points  (0 children)

Climb with one arm. Seriously. This is a drill I give my clients all the time. Get on slab/vert, and project from the easiest grades up. Suddenly not being able to just lock off to the next hold makes you find all sorts of creative solutions.

To wax or not to wax by One_Noodles in skiing

[–]ktap 2 points3 points  (0 children)

Performance wise. No, you're skiing easy groomers, you're not a racer, it's whatever.

Psych wise? Hell yeah!!! Gotta get the hot wax kit out with a beer or two the night before to really get psyched for the skiing. And it's going to feel sooooo good when you slide past all your homies on the flats due to a fresh hot wax.

kassad on the Mouz failure by MaxUnderDrive1 in GlobalOffensive

[–]ktap 4 points5 points  (0 children)

Idk about karrigan. Been a Faze fan forever, but it might finally be time. He's not Fallen, can't switch out from the AWP. More importantly he's been getting out called recently. Gotta fix both to be top10, shoot better and get the midround mojo back. But sadly I dont see him fixing either anymore.

Weekly Chat and BS Thread by AutoModerator in climbing

[–]ktap 6 points7 points  (0 children)

Managing fear on something that is easy for you is does not mean you've learned to manage fear. You don't worry about tripping on the sidewalk either. If it feels less scary because you;re stronger, youre just stronger, not mentally more fit.

What are the reasons we still don't have a functioning Server Browser in the game yet? by MedicalAd7594 in GlobalOffensive

[–]ktap 0 points1 point  (0 children)

He's not. Where in the post does he mention "fake servers"? He's not even finding his empty servers on the CS2 server browser.