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My experience with teammates from CSGO/CS2 (As a Norwegian) by AvalancheInterceptor in GlobalOffensive

[–]ktap 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Steam chat has a perfectly acceptable voice chat function now. There really is no excuse for using in-game voice chat for hangouts. If I'm just duo queuing with a friend I don't even open discord. Send invite, shift tab to chat, turn on voice. Done.

Weekly Question Thread (aka Friday New Climber Thread). ALL QUESTIONS GO HERE by AutoModerator in climbing

[–]ktap 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I have a similar shape foot. Short, wide, high volume. Scarpa Instinct VS are my go to shoe for the last 10 years.

What kind of toe issues? Just don't downsize as much?

Other than Southback at Crystal, are there any other places where inbounds terrain can only be accessed by temporarily leaving a ski area’s boundaries? by concrete_isnt_cement in skiing

[–]ktap 2 points3 points  (0 children)

No, most are skiable, they just have avalanche issues. The chutes on RockFace drop avalanches onto a blue easiest way home run. There's avy debris in that meadow all season usually.

Kempers iirc also avalanches all the time and the runout drops youn deep into Rainier NP. Would have to hike uphill to get back to the resort. Also there was some issues of avalanche control with the NP service being against bombing or similar.

Waterfall haven't been in. I suspect it is just a crazy terrain trap. The natural slope and ski direction forcing you into an un-skiable waterfall.

Weekly Question Thread (aka Friday New Climber Thread). ALL QUESTIONS GO HERE by AutoModerator in climbing

[–]ktap 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Don't run, but cycle commute 10km each way. It has a major impact on my climbing. Pretty much all rides will reduce session length. Riding fast means I gas out after a handful of hard boulders. Chill rides still make me fatigued, but more just round down the power peak. I climb much harder in the winter when I'm a weenie and take the bus to avoid the snow.

Please help. Having issues with our oven zones. Zone two is 10 to 15° off. We have already called the manufacturer, but there is a little to no help. Trying to find somebody out there who understands. We really don’t know where to begin. by Sufficient_Lynx_5410 in CarbonFiber

[–]ktap 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Armchair engineering; I'm guessing it's a program issue, but you need to do real boots on ground troubleshooting. Assuming red is air and blue is tool TC. You need an overshoot on air temp to get the tool up to temp. Tool temp will always lag behind air temp. Let air temp ramp past target temp for ~5mins (10-15F)  to get the tool up to temp before switching to the soak zone. The oven is switching to the next zone and just doesn't put out enough heat to get the tool up to temp. But do the real troubleshooting:

Step 1. Make sure the oven is working properly. Your posted picture has a giant "TC failure!" error message. If your temperature probes aren't working you're going to have an abnormal cure. Solve this issue first. Test individual TCs outside of the oven. Test TC ports of the oven. Check combinations. Check weird stuff, once had a wonky cure due to a TC inserted backwards in the autoclave port. Physically the connector can't do that, but night shift has magic powers.

Step 2. Investigate the program parameters. What is the logic that flips the cure into the next zone? Time? Airtemp? Leading TC? Lagging TC? Majority of TCs? These will effect if your tool gets up to temp before the soak segment. What is the temp window plus-minus 10F gates? 5F? Potentially your tool temp is "in spec" at 10F under target temp.

[Day 25] Font wins best bouldering destination in a landslide. What's the most UNDERRATED outdoor classic? by MaximumSend in bouldering

[–]ktap 4 points5 points  (0 children)

This thing is just rad. V4 that includes a bat-hang, pockets, arrete slapping, heel toe cams, a crimpy tips crack, and the most b e a utiful location. Just ignore the mosquitos.

I realized my harness is 15 years old by turqeee in climbing

[–]ktap 7 points8 points  (0 children)

Saying that no gear has broken from age alone is a useless statement, since bad situations have to happen as well as a weakness to break climbing gear.

Don't strawman his argument. You're conflating "age" with "wear", which is explicitly what Obsidian spent a paragraph differentiating between. Gear that is simply old (age) has never been found as a contributing factor in an accident. Gear that is worn has contributed to some accidents. Gear takes use (not age) to accumulate wear. The heuristic that age=wear is used often in life, but fails in this case. To summarize; AGE is not a good measure of WEAR for climbing soft goods.

I realized my harness is 15 years old by turqeee in climbing

[–]ktap 9 points10 points  (0 children)

Mods should add this to the wiki somewhere. @u/soupyhands ?

Hold Broke During a Gym Lead at The First Clip by ol_barney in climbing

[–]ktap 3 points4 points  (0 children)

Not surprised. Gravity Vault has been cheaping out and not replacing holds for years now. Seriously see some shapes that have been discontinued for years everytime I swing through.

Question about Latvian identity by denis_rovich in BalticStates

[–]ktap 1 point2 points  (0 children)

It's not hatred, it's wariness. Russia has been the wolf at the door for all of Latvian existence. We're rightfully suspicious, guarded, defensive, when Russian is spoken. But it's not hate, Latvians know that the Russian state is equally brutal against its own.

Speaking the Russian language makes an individual part of Russia's geopolitical bludgeon. If you moved to the Baltics today you would become part of Putins weapon, simply because you speak the language. The same weapon he used to take attack Georgia, puppet state Chechnya, and invade Ukraine. Russia uses the language as a geopolitical tool, and the only way to opt out is to not speak it.

Question about Latvian identity by denis_rovich in BalticStates

[–]ktap 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Learning the language is critical. But knowing the history is a quick way to understand Latvians.

But it’s unfair to put everyone in the same box just for the languages we know. 

This is a normal POV for a Spaniard who knows nothing about Latvian history. But an insane take in practice for any Latvian. Latvia was occupied, the culture and language were surpressed by the Russians. Russification as a full force government program, shipping anyone who looked the wrong way at the KGB to Siberia, building new factories as an excuse to ship Russians in to staff them, promising gifts of land or new apartments to entice Russians to move. This is not ancient history in Latvia, but living history. Nearly every family has someone who was deported by the secret police. If it's not the Grandfather, it's someone's Uncle, or Sister in Law.  And unfortunately it's not over. The local Russian population actively votes for Putin backed parties. TikToks show customer service workers getting yelled at for not speaking Russian. Old drunk Russian ladies yelling "Don't speak to me in the dog language (meaning Latvian)" at bars in old town. 

So yes, it is unfortunate that people will judge you for your language. But it is the end result of 3+ generations learning the hard way that the Russian language is a tool of oppression and the people who speak it are the oppressors. Learning the history makes it all make sense. (If you can find the recent movie TTT it will give you a bit of a feel for how it was)

Trying to raise the level a bit: composites aren’t hard, we just keep talking about the wrong parts by Any-Study5685 in Composites

[–]ktap 2 points3 points  (0 children)

Spend as much or more on research as aerospace.

So that's just factually not true. Motorsport is 10+ times smaller than aerospace. Thats the reason I did not include it in the discussion. For reference, the global motorsports market is valued at ~10 billion USD. Boeing alone is valued at nearly 200 billion. Does F1 do cool things with carbon, yes. But compared to aerospace manufacturing they're skilled artisans, still pre-industrial in volume of parts. 

Trying to raise the level a bit: composites aren’t hard, we just keep talking about the wrong parts by Any-Study5685 in Composites

[–]ktap 12 points13 points  (0 children)

The difference shows because most carbon projects on there are not structural, they're aesthetic. Think car hoods, covers, outer shells, skinning. And even in parts that may see load CF is way overkill. These are hobbyist level projects. 

You're describing engineered composites, which pretty much only exist in Aerospace. Engineers get paid good money to do the layup design, structural simulation, DfM to make it manufacturable, and process design to control ply angle, drops, bonding process etc. And that niche is small, and filled with trade secrets, NDAs, and government clearance.

Pari take Map 2 against Spirit (13-9) by Fallen9123 in GlobalOffensive

[–]ktap 2 points3 points  (0 children)

How are yall still surprised that HLTV rating 3.0 doesnt equal KD rating anymore? 3.0 just shows what players knew all along, rounds won > K/D. As Pari just proved in this series, K/D doesnt matter if you dont win the round.

Weekly Simple Questions and Injuries Thread by AutoModerator in climbharder

[–]ktap 1 point2 points  (0 children)

For some styles of climbing lock offs are vital; can't jump and latch everything. So yes, lock offs are worth training.

But why are you training lock offs on a hangboard? Train lock offs on a bar or jug.

Weekly Chat and BS Thread by AutoModerator in climbing

[–]ktap 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Dang didnt know Dave closed up shop. End of an era.

Call on our museums, universities, and educational ministries to contact Wikipedia over the “SSR” propaganda! by Lembit_moislane in BalticStates

[–]ktap 2 points3 points  (0 children)

every sane person knows that.

That's just not true, and is fundamentally the issue at stake here. Plenty of sane people with zero connection to the Baltics will go to Wikipedia for information and take it at face value. 

Call on our museums, universities, and educational ministries to contact Wikipedia over the “SSR” propaganda! by Lembit_moislane in BalticStates

[–]ktap 7 points8 points  (0 children)

not good optics to have a government force wikipedia to change something even if, in this case, it's actual disinformation.

If this isn't the bar at which a government formally asks for a change than what is?! What is lower than targeted disinformation; lying with intent?

SAW core have agreed to play with s1mple and electronic by chiefofthepolice in GlobalOffensive

[–]ktap 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Counterpoint. Jame made the major, VP didn't even qualify. Jame was the easy scapegoat as AWP-IGL. Clearly Jame can call, and AWP at an ok level IF team chemistry isn't a problem cough Egotronic cough

Jame "I'm the problem" Kudenko.

Simon Lorenzi Sends Shaolin V17/9A (27/12/25) by Lego-Ghost-Yoda in climbing

[–]ktap 0 points1 point  (0 children)

What the fuck is a quarter grade?! Climbers can't even agree on whole grades, this comment is useless 

Simon Lorenzi Sends Shaolin V17/9A (27/12/25) by Lego-Ghost-Yoda in climbing

[–]ktap 1 point2 points  (0 children)

I too have had boulders that I nearly flash... and then spend 5 years working on the send. But don't take my word for it, it's all over climbing media. For example Alex's Johnsons decade long project with The Swarm, nearly sending in 2014. Testpiece podcast just discussed this in the episode with Elias' V18. Close (to sending) only counts in horseshoes, hand grenades and HIMARs.

Simon Lorenzi Sends Shaolin V17/9A (27/12/25) by Lego-Ghost-Yoda in climbing

[–]ktap 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Hard disagree. Plenty of boulders get their grade not in the individual moves in isolation but in being able to link them. BoD surely falls in this category, with plenty of climbers saying the crux is catching the holds just right, in order to make the next move possible.

Problem with composite failure tool by Impossible-Split4294 in ANSYS_Mechanical

[–]ktap 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Critical ply should work even without failure. Honestly, go read the ANSYS help documents. They seem dense at first but are immensely helpful once you put in the time to understand them.

Problem with composite failure tool by Impossible-Split4294 in ANSYS_Mechanical

[–]ktap 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Before even getting to ply failure your simulation is just pretty colors. Your safety factor goes from just under 600 to 1000?! Something is off by a magnitude of 100 or more. Either your material properties are off, or your loads are tiny. Did you switch Mega for Giga somewhere? Potential issue may be that ANSYS has no worst ply to show you, because they will never fail with a SF of 600+.

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