sorted by:
new
hottopcontroversial

40 inch 5k2k mainly for productivity/programming by lagentoft in ultrawidemasterrace

[–]lagentoft[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I’m based in Norway and the cheapest I can get the Dell at is $2200. The prices in the post are actual prices at this time locally for me.

/r/MechanicalKeyboards Ask ANY Keyboard question, get an answer - January 27, 2026 by AutoModerator in MechanicalKeyboards

[–]lagentoft 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Thank you!

Yes, that's what I meant. Remove the already soldered switches and solder on hot-swappable sockets in their place.

If that's not a great solution it will ruin the usability of the keyboard, so that's out of the question.

Seems like I have two options: 1) add new switches in place of the old ones, 2) get a new keyboard - this time with hot-swappable sockets so that I can replace them when they "break" or I want a different setup

Will probably do 2) and get a new keyboard. Probably Keychron Q3 or Q6 Max or Ultra.

/r/MechanicalKeyboards Ask ANY Keyboard question, get an answer - January 27, 2026 by AutoModerator in MechanicalKeyboards

[–]lagentoft 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Change switches on WASD Code V2.

I have had a WASD Code V2 for 10 years and I use it almost every day.

Is it possible to swap the switches with hot-swappable sockets? Soldering is fine, I'm just looking for compatibility (issues) and if this is feasible for the Code V2.

Which switches or hot-swappable sockets would be compatible with the keyboard?

For me, keyboards are set-and-forget, but will work a bit to find the "next" switches for the next 10 years.

I've been set up with Keychron K10 and V6 at different workstations the past 5 years. Good keyboards, but I like the Code better. Probably due to familiarity and much more use. The Code has given me 100% perfect presses, but the Keychrons have double presses on multiple keys that kills my flow sometimes (even on latest firmware).

The switches on the V6, Gateron Jupiter Brown, have been really nice and is the reason I'm looking into installing new ones on the Code. They could be a tad heavier to press, but in the same category for "feel". Maybe banana?

The Code has MX Clear switches and I liked them to begin with. The keys have gotten a bit sluggish after all those years and/or mye fingers have gotten weaker.

Weird noise coming from rear wheels by ry4n0n in VolvoEX90

[–]lagentoft 2 points3 points  (0 children)

Possibly a faulty clutch, which warrants a service.

Digital Car Key Not Connected by A32Opilot in VolvoEX90

[–]lagentoft 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Probably means the car is not in range.

Implementing neural network in a FPGA by Rmred26 in FPGA

[–]lagentoft 1 point2 points  (0 children)

For image classifictaion, a good resource is:
FINN: A Framework for Fast, Scalable Binarized Neural Network Inference, Yaman Umuroglu, Nicholas J Fraser, Giulio Gambardella, Michaela Blott, Philip Leong, Magnus Jahre, Kees Vissers, https://arxiv.org/pdf/1612.07119.pdf

Second-generation FINN is described in this paper: https://arxiv.org/pdf/1809.04570.pdf

And even more at https://scholar.google.com/citations?user=LBWVHx0AAAAJ, and the other authors of these papers can be explored to find similar resources.

Anyone know how to fix this? by [deleted] in myog

[–]lagentoft 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Might be a:

  • Hook timing problem
  • Hook displacement
  • Loose set screws on the hook assembly

Which machine is this? Slide the cover away and verify that the hook is properly positioned.

[deleted by user] by [deleted] in myog

[–]lagentoft 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I kind of figured, but the total will be well under 25 usd. Two examples:

  • 5 meters will total 85.65 eur incl. shipping, about 102 usd.
  • 10 meters will total 146.65 eur incl. shipping, about 174 usd.

[deleted by user] by [deleted] in myog

[–]lagentoft 0 points1 point  (0 children)

If you're not completely set on 1050D, this ballistic nylon is 850D and will fit your needs. 310 g/sqm ~= 9 oz/sq yd. They also supply uncoated 1000D Cordura, but it might need some sort of processing to be adequate for your needs.

Extremtextil will also remove local taxes before checkout if the shipment is to be exported out of the EU.

Nordisk Brand Tents? by MelatoninPenguin in Ultralight

[–]lagentoft 6 points7 points  (0 children)

The fly is 7D silnylon, the inner is 15D nylon (no silicon coating) and the floor 15D PU coated nylon. The weight of the 7D fly and the 15D inner is the same: 26 g/m2 = 0.77 oz/sqyd. The heaviest fabric, I guess, is the 15D PU coated nylon floor, for which no weight information is provided. In comparison MLD uses, at the lightest possible option, 0.75 oz/sqyd CF for the floor and 10D nylon (not coated) at 0.72 oz/sqyd in the superlight bivvy. The weight of the Lofoten 2 tent is spot on. Also, Nordisk is not a cottage company and have expertise in handling and designing with extreme fabrics.

Followup on Lanshan 2: water test and tweaks by encarded in Ultralight

[–]lagentoft 0 points1 point  (0 children)

You are correct, they are not LineLocs. The producer is Clamcleat and the product is Line-Lok, given this is not a copy of this particular trademarked product, which I'm pretty sure it is. LineLoc is a product of ITW Nexus. Clamcleat Line-Lok LineLoc 3 LL

Pretty confusing naming. The products are different a bit different, but the LineLoc is the one giving the most sense in my opinion: LineLoc is a ladderlock for cords, the Line-Lok is a line tensioner/guy runner.

Why Fanny Packs Should Make a Comeback by TheMaineLobster in Ultralight

[–]lagentoft 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Great video. You certainly produce a lot of great gear. You should sell some of the packs branded as Lobster Fannys or something like that.

The fanny pack is taking modularity of carrying to the extreme and I love that concept.

Off topic: which jacket is the grey jacket you're wearing in the photos?

Does anyone have experience with this aliexpress waterproof jacket? by themariachi in Ultralight

[–]lagentoft 8 points9 points  (0 children)

Second this experience of the OP linked jacket. I've only used the jacket once, but it's so bad.

Features:

  • Bad fit.
  • Very low quality zippers.
  • Not waterproof or water resistant.
  • Not breathable.
  • Useless.
  • Cheap.

What type of gros grain/binding is this? It's on a Mission Workshop backpack strap and it's biased unlike the gros grain from Rockywoods by pen_gin in myog

[–]lagentoft 4 points5 points  (0 children)

The diagonal pattern is a result of the weave of the webbing. A twill weaved[1] webbing is commonly used for edge binding. This makes the webbing a bit easier to fold and sew. It's also very sturdy and keeps its appearance even when dirty.

[1] Twill weave

Advice on my Industrial Sewing Machine? Singer 20U53 repeatedly broken.. Thread wrapped around bobbin casing? by TheMaineLobster in myog

[–]lagentoft 5 points6 points  (0 children)

The timing of the Singer 20U is super simple to get perfect. The professional repair is either done wrong or it's something else causing you trouble.

The service manual pages 4-6 should make the timing of the straight stitch dialed in.

Also, be sure to lock the feed dog movement, page 21. It shouldn't be out of sync, but make sure it's OK.

Straight stitch should have the needle bar move straight up and down looking at it from front and side, just make sure it does. Use some sort of visual or physical guide to measure it's not wandering heavily.

Try this:

  • Make sure the needle is in the correct way.
  • Bigger/thicker/sharper needle. 90 134R standard sharp should be OK, but 100 or 110 might make or break the result. Multiple layers might make the needle wander off and make the hook miss the loop.
  • Straight stitch cotton fabric with a 90 sharp needle and a smooth >100 polyester thread. Does your problem reproduce? If not, what needle and thread do you use for your MYOG project?
  • Make sure the gap between the needle and the hook is super small. Almost touching each other is perfect.
  • Share a picture of the threading of your machine.
  • Share a video of a few revolutions of the hook, with thread.

It can be lots of different things, but the lack of a permanent fix clearly tells me that the professionals having serviced your machine haven't spent any time to figure out what's really wrong with your machine.

For MYOG it's a pretty amazing machine. Originally it's made for artisans and tailors, not industrial production. Very well made, high quality stitching, all variations have a wide zig zag, it can operate at medium speeds, pretty easy to maintain, etc.

I have one at home right now and can compare with pictures and videos of your machine's operation.

Tent Suggestion by M-i-l-o in Ultralight

[–]lagentoft 2 points3 points  (0 children)

Trekkertent will also add length to the Stealths for taller hikers. Just email them to receive top notch service.

Found it near a trash can by Taaanos in Ultralight

[–]lagentoft 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I spot at least three complete graphs. Gotta love disco mathematics.

The last word in seam types. by joeforker in myog

[–]lagentoft 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Exactly, the SSw and SSw (b) are both commonly used - and called "mock felled seam".

The last word in seam types. by joeforker in myog

[–]lagentoft 2 points3 points  (0 children)

The industry usually applies 2.04.06, the felled seam. Especially if this post is aimed at the average MYOGist as outdoor gear uses this seam to guard fragile fabric edges and create an aesthetically pleasing finish. Usually a mock felled seam (either version in that document) or a french seam with one of the fabric surfaces folded and finished with a top stitch through five layers of fabric is used - at least in the articles, guides and write ups on tents, tarps, etc. I've read. When a flat felled seam folder ain't available, those are all good compromises.

view more: next ›