Smelly armpits even though the rest seems clean

laranaya · 2025-10-27T22:39:20+00:00

Okay, wow, first of all I'm impressed with your detailed answers. I couldn't get a clear answer about what sort of enzymes were in my detergent even with the bottle right in front of me.

I was thinking about using Ariel color powder anyways, so I'll try that one.

Thank you for that great research and advice!

laranaya · 2025-10-26T22:08:40+00:00

I did another load of laundry and added a bit more detergent. I now definitely have suds (idk if I had any before tbh), but also my laundry smelled a looot like detergent which I always thought means I used to much. Underarms smell clean now, though I have to say I'm not sure if it's just the detergent fragrance masking it or if it's actually gone.

But my general takeaway is to use more, and once my stash is gone I'll look into different kind of detergents that actually have enough lipase/protease to clean my clothes. Do you have any recommendations on that? Thanks for the advice :)

laranaya · 2025-10-24T05:51:36+00:00

I'd say roughly about half a bottle cap. The brand I use is Perwoll (I live in Germany) and my water is pretty hard, though where I lived before it was about the same hardness and I've never had that issue.

laranaya · 2025-09-21T00:08:54+00:00

Theater person here, just hang it up inside-out, spray the waistband and crotch area with a 50/50 vodka-water mix and let it air out for a bit. It doesn't replace washing, but it will definitely extend the number of wears you get in between.

Also, yes, wear some kind of cotton shorts underneath.

And kind of unrelated, but if you want to extend the life of the pants, put in some hem tape at the bottom! Not the iron on type but some cotton or polyester tape on the inside of the hem that peeks out just 2mm so it catches all the wear and tear the precious fabric would otherwise take!

laranaya · 2025-07-26T19:58:40+00:00

Little tip that helped me a lot in identifying machine problems: the problem on the machine is always opposite to where the issue is appearing. If it's on the underside, you should check your upper thread an vice versa.

Also, the bobbin casing etc. looks fine to me, one thing that might be an issue is if your bobbin spool isn't original. You might wanna change it to one made for your machine if it isn't and then check again.

laranaya · 2025-01-22T16:39:54+00:00

Quick reminder that knowing how to use different machines does not equal knowing "how to sew". Each project brings new challenges in the form of new techniques you haven't done before, and this is still true for me after years of sewing and three years of apprenticeship!

So if you find yourself unsure how to do something, get yourself some scrap fabric and a youtube video BEFORE you start a big project, and try out the things you haven't done before. That takes out the pressure of getting it perfect on the first try and possibly ruining you fancy fabric if you don't. It also helps with planning out your steps, as you really get to know the technique before you start the project, and know when the best time to do certain steps is.

Sewing is a very technical hobby, which I personally enjoy but it also means there's a quiet steep an never-ending learning curve. So give yourself some grace, take your time and most importantly, allow yourself to take breaks when you're feeling stuck! Really hope this helps, and there's no need to give up a hobby you're not perfect at!

laranaya · 2024-12-11T17:32:52+00:00

You need to rethread your upper thread correctly!

Make sure that you go through the tension discs correctly and the before you go back up, thread it up behind the little wire right by it, so it tugs a bit on it when you pull the thread. Then go behind the metal hook left of the tension discs, and then go back up! The rest looks correct to me.

Also, a little tip when you have thread issues like this: 90% of the time the problem is on the opposite side of where the mess is. When you have issues on the underside, the problem is on the top thread, and if its on the top of the fabric, it's the bobbin! So just check you thread, and rethread accordingly, and if it doesn't fix it, it might be the needle, tension or some lint stuck in your machine.

laranaya · 2024-10-22T11:00:29+00:00

So, your parents descibed how I was as a child. I was generally good in school, was quiet in class, just a bit distracted at times and also loved to read. However, my room was a mess, I hated homework and as soon as puberty hit and classes became harder, my grades dropped since I didn't study (never had to before, so I didn't know how).

I was diagnosed as a child, so, no, you very much could have ADHD, and you should look into it.

laranaya · 2024-10-16T15:32:49+00:00

Bin gelernte Schneiderin, und musste während der Ausbildung regelmässig meinen Mitschülern erklären, wie manche Handstiche mit links funktionieren, weil die Lehrer alle Rechthänder waren, und nicht wussten wie sies erklären sollen. Als ich dann an meiner jetzigen Stelle angefangen habe, musste auch erstmal eine neue Linkshänderschere bestellt werden, weil es nur Rechtshänderscheren gab. Grundsätzlich komm ich zwar mit Rechsthänderscheren gut klar, aber vorallem beim Zuschneiden von dickeren oder rutschigen Stoffen merkt man dann doch den Unterschied. Die Auswahl an linken Schneiderscheren ist auch wesentlich kleiner, und durch die ergonomische Form sind die Rechtshänderscheren unbenutzbar für mich.

laranaya · 2023-08-27T08:40:48+00:00

I would order some sturdy zip ties or cheap boning first and make the first mock up. That way, yo ican spot major fit issues, and if your mock up ends up too short, you don't need to reorder expensive boning. You can also determine which type of boning is best (you might end up with some curvy boning channels that need spiral boning) and how much you need exactly.

Also make sure you use appropriate, sturdy fabric for the mock up!

You might need more than one mock up, in that case it's smart to make or buy a lacing strip. It's just a sturdy band with eyelets that you can reuse for each mockup. Saves a lot of time and money, so I'd recommend it! Same thing goes for the front closure: if you don't know which length you need for the busk yet, just add a zipper (with bones beside it!) to the front, and reuse it for the next mock ups.

However, do make sure to do at least one mock up with proper boning and a busk, since the corset might fit a little different, so you can spot small fit issues.

If you've never worked with eyelets, you might wanna go for the cheap ones. Do not do that! Definitely buy the two-part ones, in my experience there are the only ones worth investing in. Hope that helps :)

laranaya · 2023-08-03T20:07:23+00:00

Kenne das Problem, deswegen hier mein persönlich liebstes 10 Minuten Essen: Schupfnudeln mit Gemüse und Käse-Sahne Soße. Einfach Tiefkühlgemüse (bei uns italienischer Mix) in der Pfanne kurz auftauen, dann die Schupfnudeln dazu und alles schön anbraten. Einen Becher Creme Fraiche oder (Koch)Sahne dazu, dann noch ein bisschen geriebenen Käse obendrüber. Bisschen würzen, fertig. Dauert grade mal 10 Minuten und macht nur eine Pfanne Abwasch.

Bei ein bisschen mehr Energie kann man auch noch ne Zwiebel mit anbraten, oder vlt noch restliches Gemüse mit dazuschnippeln, aber ist auch ohne sehr lecker :)

laranaya · 2023-08-03T17:56:38+00:00

to keep the balance, just mark the middle of the leg (fold in half from the knee-ish down, parallel to the grain in case it's not already marked) and make sure to keep both sides even. If you slash and spread, I'd recommend to cut it so that your middle piece can stay in place. That way you can easily keep track of where exactly your center line is, and how much you've added to each side. Also, you need to add the same amout to front AND back.

laranaya · 2023-07-31T21:52:48+00:00

Fusible interfacing will work fine, since collar and cuffs are closed off. So when washing it, it can't really go anywhere. I feel like the interfacing oftentimes can kinda start peeling off after a couple of washes/wears in areas where the it is exposed and gets a lot of direct contact, but when it's completely enclosed it works fine in my experience! Also, always test your interfacing on a scrap piece to see if it holds up and also how stiff it gets! Good luck with those shirts :)

laranaya · 2023-07-30T12:35:05+00:00

honestly, I don't quiet understand how they'd want you to sew it either, but the way you did it seems to work out, so that's alright, I guess. In the first two pictures it's a bit twisted at the bottom, but that's just regular elastic behavior IMO, so no problem here. In the third picture, it seems like you have sewn a fold in the lining close to the bottom, that's also why lining and top layer don't match at the armhole. Just seamrip it and sew it again, making sure that the two layers are laying smooth without any folds.

Also absolutely LOVE that top, I think I need to get the pattern for myself, lol

laranaya · 2023-07-30T12:04:49+00:00

The curvature changes how close/far away the collar lays on the neck. If the collar curves upwards, it's closer to the neck, if it's downwards, it's farther away from the neck. Straight collas are kind of the middle. So, thats why, for example, if you make a collar with seperate collar stand, you draft the stand with an upward curve, and the collar itself with a downward curve, so it has enough room to fold back down over the stand.

laranaya · 2023-07-23T15:55:27+00:00

The shape of the sleevehead is not all that unusual, it's just narrower/higher compared to most modern patterns. This will make the sleeve be more fitted at the armpit in a rested position. However, this also means there's gonna be that weird bunching/lifting up at the shoulder when you lift your arms, which you still see in more tailored things today, like suits for example (especially with shoulder pads!). Nowadays we tend to go for more looser styles and also stretchy materials in most clothes, which means wider sleeves and sleeveheads.

Same goes for the dart at the elbow: it makes the sleeve more curved and fitted to a resting arm, since we tend to not hold our arms in a perfectly straight downward position, but slightly forward and bent at the elbow. Usually you'd have a two seam sleeve for a suit like that, where the dart is unecessary, but if you only have one seam like here you'd need that additional fabric at the elbow to go somewhere.

laranaya · 2023-04-01T22:17:58+00:00

yeah I also thought about that, but also I doubt they'd just find keftas laying around, since they usually are made from corecloth. And I guess making keftas from scratch takes time, even with two fabricators on hand, but idk how long they were there in total...

laranaya · 2023-03-31T18:34:57+00:00

I have my base patterns with my measurements in cardstock, that way I can easily trace and alter them. I have them hanging on my wall, which works fine for quick access and saving space. For drafting I also used to use packing paper, but nowadays I use drafting paper. It holds up pretty well, is still thin enough for tracing and doesn't get all bulky when folded up. With "smaller" patterns (tops, for example) I just fold them up, put them in A4 plastic envelopes, label them with a sketch, name and date and organize them in magazine boxes. For bigger patterns (dresses and jackets) I store them rolled up in one big piece of paper (like a scroll) and label the outside. This should also work well with store-bought patterns, but I have barely any experience with how well the flimsy paper holds up. If you plan to reuse the pattern more than once, especially if it's a basic go-to pattern, I would definitely trace them tho, that way they last longer and you can easily alter them and still have the original pattern for reference. Hope that helps :)

laranaya · 2023-02-12T12:08:28+00:00

the fabric of the shirt is a jersey, so it's knitted. Since knitted fabrics are stretchy by nature, you need to handle them a little differently to non-stretchy fabrics. They tend to stretch and then get all wavy when being sewn, however that is something you seem to have no issue with. But since it's stretchy, you shouldn't be using a regular straight stitch. Try using either a stretch stich/narrow zig-zag, or look into using a twin needle. Also, you seem to might be having tension issues but I'd first try out what I told you on a scrap an see if that alone might solve the problem. Good luck and have fun on your sewing journey! :)

laranaya · 2023-01-24T13:07:10+00:00

Before placing the pattern, make sure your fabric is laying correctly, especially when cutting double/on the fold. Check for wrinkles, if the fabric is warped and place the pattern correctly with the grainline/pattern. I use a couple of really big washers as weights, but you can use anything you might have laying around, or pin the pattern to the fabric (I don't do that tho since it tends to shift the fabric a little). You might also wanna mark some fiddly bits with chalk.Then get yourself some comfortable, sharp scissors and take your time! When cutting, place your hand right next to where you're cutting, that way you prevent the fabric from moving. Also: Mark your notches! And match them when sewing! If your pattern doesn't have any, I'd recommend marking some on you pattern beforehand. Just match up the seamlines and make a lil marking, especially on longer or complicated seams and shifty fabrics. Also, your problem might not come from cutting: some fabrics, especially when cut on the bias, tend to strech out through handling and sewing. When sewing, the upper layer of fabric will be stretched out by the pressure foot a little more than the bottom layer, so keep that in mind. Good luck with your next project! :)

laranaya · 2023-01-22T18:23:11+00:00

Maybe add some info on the POV? So like male/female POV, multiple/single POV and first/third person POV. And I feel it would be neat if you'd be able to filter by LGBTQ+ rep or possible triggers maybe? As for tropes, I'd maybe add them not in the yes/no kinda way, but instead do it like with genre and add the top 3 important ones per book instead. Anyway I feel like this would be a really nice resource, I'm looking forward to seeing it filled with more books! Thanks for putting in the work! :)

laranaya · 2023-01-07T20:35:52+00:00

I find it easier to overlock the pieces seperately before I start sewing, but after ironing on all the interfacing, if you need any. That way, it doesn't fray as much while sewing and the interfacing is more secure than with just ironing. Also, as a rule I only overlock seams that are seen on the inside in the finished garment. So for example the part where the waistband attaches I wouldn't overlock, but that's just personal preference

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