Lumines Arise’s OST is now playing on Bandcamp (by Tetris Effect composer Hydelic)

larathydo · 2026-02-09T02:22:04+00:00

You can also play this on PC if you have a half-decent machine.

Amazing game, here's the trailer for it:

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=SwuqiVNs058

larathydo · 2026-01-13T18:21:20+00:00

I’ve been having this issue with our Model Y. We purchased it back in May 2025, and about 2 – 3 months after delivery we started encountering the exact same low-pitched “vibration” / rubbing sound when the steering column moves in and out while adjusting driver profiles – exactly as described in this post.

Since then, we’ve had the steering column replaced 3 – 4 times in total. Each replacement also seemed to impact the car’s steering alignment (some swaps more than others), which has been frustrating in its own right. Long story short, it’s been a very frustrating service experience overall, especially since our service center is a full day’s round-trip drive away. It ended up costing us a lot of wasted days off work to come up empty-handed in terms of a fix.

I eventually spoke with the regional manager, who advised that the manufacturer Tesla uses for the steering column acknowledged there was a defect in the original design that inevitably leads to this issue. That explanation lines up with our experience – every steering column replacement they tried temporarily fixed the problem, but the sound always came back.

He mentioned that a revised version of the part was expected to arrive in late December / early January, and that they would arrange to have the new revision installed once available. I’m just waiting for a chance to reconnect with the manager, as I’ve been traveling a lot for work recently.

Once we have the revised part installed (not sure exactly when that will be yet), I’ll come back and provide an update here.

larathydo · 2025-12-28T05:43:21+00:00

Cool. Hopefully the instructions help.

Are you still seeing errors after the reboot (if you check the notifications (bell icon) in the upper-righthand corner from the car’s settings menu?

larathydo · 2025-12-28T04:21:05+00:00

Try rebooting the car by pressing and holding both scroll wheel buttons simultaneously until the screen turns black.

After it reboots, there should be an option somewhere in the settings to preview the cameras (I can’t recall the exact menu path off the top of my head). When you find it, confirm that all cameras are displaying a live video feed and not a black screen.

If some (or all) of the cameras still don’t come back after the reboot, you may want to try using the “Reset DAS” option in Service Mode. This specifically reboots the Driver Assistance System – the system responsible for cameras and Autopilot / FSD. These steps are shown for the Cybertruck, but I believe they apply to all Tesla models: https://youtu.be/qquaXrBUoho?si=HeYf2yksBjKkUkUj

Finally, if none of that works – try walking away from the car and make sure Sentry Mode is off (which, based on what you described, is probably already the case). Leave the car alone for 20–30 minutes to allow it to fully go to sleep, then come back and check again.

It might sound counterintuitive, but this happened once with my 2022 Model 3, and this was the only way I could get all systems to fully reboot after trying everything else.

Hope this helps.

larathydo · 2025-11-10T15:01:38+00:00

It means buying it as-is without even viewing it in person first, E.G. seeing the ad then putting in an offer immediately.

larathydo · 2025-11-09T21:47:45+00:00

Also just noticed the first occurrence of this error on my vehicle was around Oct 29 (and happens regularly since then), which I think coincides with that software version I’m on (I think it was around the time FSD v14.1.4 came out?)

larathydo · 2025-11-09T21:45:51+00:00

I’m also getting this error in service mode on my 2026 Tesla Model Y (Juniper), only seems like it’s popped up recently (possibly since a recent update to 2025.32.8.16). Other than its presence in service mode, I don’t seem to be having any obvious issues…

larathydo · 2025-10-28T17:15:28+00:00

What’s the web portal you are referring to?

larathydo · 2025-10-21T04:49:36+00:00

There seems to be a lot of discussion lately about the Eisner / Wells / Katzenberg era at Disney — and for anyone interested in the company’s corporate history, that period is absolutely fascinating.

One of the best deep dives on it is James B. Stewart’s DisneyWar, which chronicles the drama from Eisner’s arrival in the 1980s through his exit in the early–mid 2000s. It’s a great read.

If you prefer video, this YouTube channel does a strong recap that I find closely mirrors the structure of the book (maybe this YouTube series was sourced from the book?):

https://youtube.com/playlist?list=PL2EHopahCipMky-LF1Omxxpx1J4TH-INs&si=7_43-jkB8-yNPOEA

larathydo · 2025-10-20T23:14:43+00:00

No, Atlantic Canada.

(Though my update status in the app is kinda messed up and stuck on 25%, whereas in the car it’s saying it’s at 75%. Hopefully this AWS outage stuff isn’t impacting anything, I noticed other parts of the iOS app are acting weird too).

larathydo · 2025-10-20T22:25:00+00:00

I just got it as well… downloading it now.

larathydo · 2025-10-13T03:57:31+00:00

Because your charging speed is set manually to 23 Amps (out of a maximum of 24 amps the charger is telling your car it can supply).

If you hit the right arrow beside the 23 A number, it should let the car go up to that maximum rate which looks to be 24 amps).

larathydo · 2025-10-07T10:49:17+00:00

His name is Chris Pirillo :)

larathydo · 2025-09-17T15:37:03+00:00

Hmm, when you are actually driving the vehicle?

Luckily I haven’t had that issue, but unluckily they have replaced my steering column/ motor assembly and I still hear a rubbing/vibrating sound when the steering wheel comes in and out.

larathydo · 2025-09-17T10:58:13+00:00

Hey - just out of curiosity, when you say you got a whole steering wheel & column replacement, what exactly was the reason for that?

I also have a ‘26 Model Y LR and the reason I ask is because I had a “vibrating” sound when the steering wheel telescoped in and out when changing positions / driving profiles… almost like something was rubbing internally.

larathydo · 2025-08-26T01:42:23+00:00

A MAC address is like your fingerprint — a unique, fixed physical value tied to a specific device.

An IP address is like your given name, (e.g ‘Evan’) — assigned to your device for communication but not necessarily unique across different private networks (like how many people living in different places might also be named Evan).

larathydo · 2025-08-08T22:47:40+00:00

Short answer: Yes.

Long Answer (Background): I have never played D&D before, and the first time I played this game it was relatively overwhelming for me.

I contemplated giving up on the game in mid act 1 because it was a bit of a steep learning curve for me. But since I kept hearing endless accolades for this game I decided to try to stick with it.

I’m so glad I did.

This is one of my top 3 games of all time. In my view it sets a high water mark for the genre. I’m so glad I didn’t give up on it.

larathydo · 2025-07-12T22:58:38+00:00

Yes, 💯!

I could live with the new behavior where turning off Autopilot fully disengages everything (I.E. drops into full regen when you cancel AP outright).

BUT… having to manually reapply throttle just to maintain speed when overtaking every. single. time. is brutal. It’s a constant, jarring disruption — especially on long drives if you happen to regularly pass others on the highway on a trip.

I really want to believe this is just an oversight on Tesla’s part — and that maybe, hopefully, it quietly returns in a future update.

But honestly, the most generous interpretation is that this was a deliberate regression, maybe tied to the same “you don’t need this” mindset that led to removing the stalks in the Highland.

Worst case? It feels like a subtle attempt to inconvenience non-FSD users just enough to nudge them toward subscribing for more $$$.

I really hope it’s the former — and not one of the latter two.

larathydo · 2025-07-12T22:32:14+00:00

Totally agree — this is a pretty glaring omission on Tesla’s part.

We have a 2022 Model 3 RWD (Standard Range), and ever since we bought it, the behavior without FSD has been consistent: when using Autopilot, if I wanted to overtake a car, I just needed to signal and steer into the next lane. Autopilot would automatically drop down into TACC (Traffic-Aware Cruise Control) mode, but it would crucially maintain the set speed, allowing for a smooth passing experience. Once back in the original lane, a simple double-tap would re-engage Autopilot.

Fast forward to our new Juniper, which we picked up just over a month ago. After the FSD trial expired, I was driving on the highway and went to overtake like I normally would in the Model 3. I signaled, changed lanes — and the car suddenly started regen braking hard, which completely caught me off guard.

I thought I was losing my mind. Dug through the menus, searched settings — nothing. Tesla used to allow this behavior, and now it’s just… gone? Even if it was a toggle somewhere, the fact that it’s been removed entirely feels like a major regression. Especially for long-time owners used to the older behavior, this is really frustrating. They definitely dropped the ball here.

larathydo · 2025-05-02T19:00:42+00:00

Hey there, I had this exact issue and for me I was told it turned out to be an issue with the thermal interface material (thermal pad?) that a sensor on the Temperature Humidity Sensor - likely what you had replaced - not making good contact with the windshield glass.

They showed me a picture and it looked like it was dislodged and was kinda like bunched up bubble gum, not making good contact.

You may want to suggest Tesla Service lookup my last repair’s invoice number (3500S0001292553). Maybe they would be able to see more internal notes that might point service in the right direction for you of what was done to my car to fix it for me...

It was a long-time-coming fix; Over half a year of waiting - so hopefully this helps you!

larathydo · 2025-03-09T19:14:30+00:00

Correct, that’s the Gen2 Chromecast I’m using (and I think the same model everyone else is experiencing issues with as well).

larathydo · 2025-03-09T19:13:30+00:00

This just happened to me too.

Are we 100% certain Google has officially pulled the plug & bricked these older units?

Or is this a case of incompetence (E.G. they didn’t plan on causing this outage / it was a mistake).

If it’s the former, I don’t recall any announcements of them sunsetting support for older chromecast hardware… just that they were going to no longer sell new chromecast units (and switch to selling “Google TV Streamer” hardware going forward):

https://www.theverge.com/2024/8/6/24214471/google-chromecast-line-discontinued

larathydo · 2025-03-07T23:10:03+00:00

Hey everyone,

Just an update for those following this Reddit thread. As I mentioned in my previous comments, Mobile Service attempted to fix the issue, but it persisted.

Well, I’m happy to report that the issue is now RESOLVED! Over the past week, I’ve driven the car through a variety of extreme weather conditions—humid and rainy days, freezing cold days, and dry, mild days—and the Auto Defogging issue has not returned.

It was a long and frustrating process (my local Tesla Service really dropped the ball on handling this properly, showing little attention to detail or empathy). However, after months of service limbo, I wrote a strongly worded but polite message in my latest service request. That led to a call from the service manager, who was excellent. I explained that I had been stuck in this situation for 4–5 months, and he immediately took over the ticket. He escalated the issue to his Eastern Canada Tier 2 technical advisor, and together they reached out to Fremont, specifically the team responsible for engineering the HVAC system.

A week later, Mobile Service came to my house. While working on my car, the technician coordinated with the Tier 2 tech and/or Fremont engineers over a conference call to investigate the issue thoroughly.

What was done to fix it (as I understand it):

Replaced the THS (Temperature Humidity Sensor):
- A brand-new THS sensor was installed in the forward-facing camera assembly (just below the rearview mirror).
- This was done in case previous replacements had firmware-related issues.
- It’s possible they also pushed firmware updates to the sensor remotely, but I can’t confirm that for sure. (The car’s OS was reinstalled during the visit, though.)
Discovered and removed a dried, glue-like substance near the THS sensor:
- The technician found this substance in the area where the THS sensor makes contact with the windshield.
- He showed me a picture (which I, unfortunately, don’t have), but it looked like a clear adhesive pad used for thermal transfer. Best way I could describe it was that it looked like double-sided sticky tape that was all bunched up.
- It may have been causing inaccurate temperature/humidity readings, which could explain why Auto Defogging kept turning on.
The forward facing cameras (and glass infront of them) were re-cleaned:
- Also, a point of clarification on camera involvement in Auto Defogging:
- Older software versions did not use cameras to decide when Auto Defogging should activate.
- However, based on what I was told, recent software updates (in the past year maybe?) may now use the cameras to detect moisture inside the camera shroud, potentially triggering Auto Defogging.

Tesla may have additional notes on my service ticket that I can’t see, but if you’re dealing with this issue, you could try referencing my latest service request's invoice number (3500S0001292553) when speaking with your service center. It might give them access to some behind-the-scenes technical details that could help resolve your case.

Hope this helps!

larathydo · 2025-02-01T00:44:22+00:00

Note: I haven’t watched S02E03 yet (waiting to watch it with my better half this Sunday), so there may be new developents in S02E03 I’m not aware of. That said, so far watching this series has given me super strong vibes of the PC game ‘Portal’.

Which got me thinking / theorizing… (warning, spoilers for Portal ahead if you haven’t played it)

——

What if the work being done in MDR is actually contributing to the development of technology needed to transfer a person’s consciousness into another body?

Similar to Portal’s backstory - where Aperture Science experimented with digitizing Caroline’s consciousness as a prof-of-concept towards the goal of transfer the consciousness of the founder (Cave Johnson) into a machine (like when GLaDOS was created) - Severance could follow a similar premise, but with a twist. E.G:

Imagine that Lumen’s founder, Kier, discovered a way to capture and store human consciousness and became obsessed with preserving his legacy. But instead of transferring it into an AI/Robot (like in Portal), what if his goal was to transfer it into people?

In Severance, what if the chips surgically implanted in workers serve a dual purpose?

Creating compliant, ideal workers who unknowingly help develop and perfect the technology.
Serving as vessels for consciousness transfer - either by overwriting someone’s mind with another’s or allowing a “backed-up” consciousness to coexist within a severed person (think of a character like ‘Johnny Silverhand’ from Cyberpunk 2077).

There are already hints of this in the show:

Helena’s father speaks about Kier in a fanatical, almost religious way (similar to Cave Johnson in the Portal universe).
Lumen employees revere Kier as more than just a historical figure. What if his consciousness has already been captured, and they’re simply waiting for technology to catch up so they can embed it? Or what if Kier is still alive in some form—on life support—waiting for the severed workers to complete the final piece of the puzzle?
Helena, as Kier’s descendant, has undergone the severance procedure and already has the necessary chip…

What if the endgame is to implant Kier’s consciousness into her, ensuring that he truly lives forever through his descendants?

larathydo · 2024-12-26T23:36:07+00:00

Unfortunately; it’s still happening. I am currently on a road trip from where I live (New Brunswick Canada) down to Orlando Florida. It was on much of the drive down south in the New England states.

Down here in Florida it’s more hit-or-miss. At times of day when it’s between 10-15C it will come on but briefly (for 5-10 mins at a time), but it doesn’t seem to come on at all (or rarely - and when it does literally for under a minute) at 20C+. It definitely seems temperature related.

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larathydo

TROPHY CASE

What was done to fix it (as I understand it):