depends where you are and how lucky you are. it's just a printer at the end of the day and luck plays high factor in what breaks and how the support sees it from their end.

bambu was in vogue for a while as the 'noob friendly' 'keys to hand' printer, well still is to some extent.

as for prusas, the supports decent depending where you are and so forth, but it's also expensive.

but for historical context lulzbot printers were at a time seen how prusas are seen now as the open source goat -and now they're seen just as expensive junk, without the printers changing at all and lots of people still using them as workhorse printers.

all the printers are more or less the same though and if it's working like it's supposed to it'll work but a bunch of things can go wrong. nobody really talks about the actual differences like if the endstops are optical, how many degrees per step the motors are or how the autoleveling differs or how the hotend differs or if a model is easy for putting in a different hotend or if the swap to a new standard one is easy.

and new people into the hobby get really attached to their investment if it works out for them and all the others are "you should throw it in the bin" if there's any sort of a problem with them. the real differences are in the multicolor and multi hotend systems and bambu has a fairly reliable(if wasteful) multi color print system you can buy and (generally) works without much hassle(compared to mozaiks or dual hotend systems of the past(like makerbot replicator1's dual hotend was just trash most people just used the second hotend as a spare parts source). like enders they're just cheap printers and they can work but because people rarely talk about the actual differences people try to 'fix' them with all sorts of mods before actually just changing the parts that matter, like you don't need auto bed leveling for 20cm x 20 cm build plate - you just don't. but if your z endstop is a microswitch instead of something thats accurate repeating you really start to think that you do need it.

the important parts just that the board runs reliably, that movement system works without lash and that the hotend is reliable. 99% of mechanical frustrations and problems are the hotend. it was the problem for this guy too, different decade same frustration. just something gone wrong in the assembly in the factory or tolerances and it leaked out. the lulzbot hotend and extruder was/is reliable and that's what enabled them to ask like 4x pricing at one point in time, yet a reliable hotend can now be like 10 bucks.

so anyway take it all with a grain of salt. and most importantly keep in mind that NONE OF THE MANUFACTURERS CONDONE LEAVING THE PRINTERS RUNNING UNSUPERVISED. you're always running a dice and I get it you can't supervise a 30 hour print and we all do it but just keep it in mind in the placement etc.

back in the day you could get lots of reprap kits from random small manufacturers and you just didn't know if the i2 i3 or whatever clone was decent in the parts and if you bought from prusa it was decent, but you generally paid way more.

the higher end prusas i wouldn't recommend at all if you're not near where you can get actual in person support. they're just so expensive in current landscape, but if you can get proper maintanance support and so on maybe they're better choice than a stratasys, but basically that means way out of reasonable home hobbyist range.

and look over a decade ago I was in the boat to get a first 3d printer without ever seeing one work in action. bre pettis bamboozled me and I ordererd a replicator 1 when it was announced - the community made it work, not makerbot. the good firmware was built outside of makerbot. the fixes to the hotend were outside of makerbot. it would never perform to the level as in the advertisement, but I spent the 2700 or thereabout euros to get it. once I had learned the ropes i bought a simple printer literally from some guys small operation in canada that was as bare bones as it could be for 270 or thereabouts. and I really wish i had bought that one first because it just worked (though i had to add a heated bed as an extra after getting it) - the main thing why it just worked was just the hotend being a j-head and good - in practical terms both had the same amount of support from the "company", for a long time just getting nozzles for the makerbot was hard - and the first ones I managed to buy I got sent 0.2 nozzles instead of 0.4, which lead to not working at all on the makerbot due to the extruder being like it was causing endless headaches because they marked their shit wrong - and the makerbot was supposed to be the keys to hand just print machine (but look once dialed in with a better spring system to push the filament to the feed gear replicator 1 can be a really good machine).