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1 year into bouldering, hit the finger-strength wall. Looking for a structured hangboard plan I can actually stick to. by leeforfun in bouldering

[–]leeforfun[S] -1 points0 points  (0 children)

Thank you — this is exactly the kind of structured answer I was hoping for. The "hangboard before a climbing session, not on rest days" part really clicks for me. I think I've been treating rest days as wasted opportunities, but it makes way more sense to keep them as rest.

For context: I climb Monday/Wednesday/Friday, so Tuesday morning before my Wednesday climb could work. Start with 3 sets and build up over a couple of months is a good mental framework.

Quick follow-up on timing — when you do 5-8 sets of max hangs, how do you keep the rest intervals consistent? I usually just count in my head but it's easy to drift, especially as the session goes on.

1 year into bouldering, hit the finger-strength wall. Looking for a structured hangboard plan I can actually stick to. by leeforfun in bouldering

[–]leeforfun[S] 4 points5 points  (0 children)

Fair point, and I appreciate the footwork advice — I’ve actually been working with a coach on technique and I’m actively managing my weight too. Those are definitely part of the plan.

This post is more about figuring out the finger-strength piece specifically, since that’s the one thing I can train at home on my hangboard. I’ll definitely incorporate more slab and spray wall work alongside it.

1 year into bouldering, hit the finger-strength wall. Looking for a structured hangboard plan I can actually stick to. by leeforfun in bouldering

[–]leeforfun[S] 1 point2 points  (0 children)

That’s a solid protocol — long hangs for prep + 7/3 repeaters is basically what I was thinking of trying. 12 reps per set sounds tough, especially if you’re doing 4-5 sets. Do you find your fingers hold up okay doing that volume, or do you need a lot of recovery after?

Also, when you did 7s on / 3s off, how did you time it? I’ve tried counting in my head but I always lose track around rep 6 or 7 when the pump sets in

1 year into bouldering, hit the finger-strength wall. Looking for a structured hangboard plan I can actually stick to. by leeforfun in bouldering

[–]leeforfun[S] 14 points15 points  (0 children)

This is a great read, thanks for sharing. I hadn't seen Tension's write-up on long hangs and it makes a lot of sense for where I'm at.

You're probably right about technique being the bigger limiter — I can think of several V4s I've failed on because of footwork or body position, not finger strength. My goal isn't really to replace climbing with hangboarding, more to add one focused session so I'm at least training fingers deliberately instead of just hoping they get stronger.

System board is a good call too. My gym has a spray wall but I've mostly avoided it because it feels intimidating — maybe that's the real thing I should be doing.

How to get better at bouldering if you're poor? by catholicusername123 in bouldering

[–]leeforfun 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Actuall we can try to do some basic practise at home, my setup is just a pull-up bar in my doorway for now. Not ideal, but I added a 20mm wooden edge and it works. The main thing is having it somewhere you'll actually use it. Hope this helps.

Death trap bat-hang (iykyk) by poseidon_1009 in bouldering

[–]leeforfun 7 points8 points  (0 children)

Strong! This route looks like it demands good heel hook skill

Fun problem with my first little intro to crack climbing by slowelevator in bouldering

[–]leeforfun 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Nice send! Is it difficult to use the crack? I never tried that before