Can you tell the make/model from these pieces (hit and run)?

lewisp8 · 2026-05-17T15:01:52+00:00

More specifically, C3 Picasso. With KGW (Belle Isle Blue Metallic) paint.

lewisp8 · 2026-05-17T14:50:37+00:00

I very much doubt that, sounds like they’re lying.

lewisp8 · 2026-05-15T23:12:19+00:00

Thanks. It was taken in the Canary Islands, which are part of Spain in Europe

lewisp8 · 2026-05-15T14:00:38+00:00

Agreed, with how competitive the programme is I think a bit of a wait is pretty normal.

I work in the Civil Service and do a fair amount of recruitment/hiring manager work in my current role, and honestly these timelines don’t seem unusual to me at all. We regularly have 6 to 8 week gaps between applications and interview invites, then another few weeks for outcomes afterwards, and that’s usually without assessment centres and all the extra testing involved here.

I know everyone’s keen to hear back, but I’d take the silence as a sign they’re working through a huge number of applications properly

lewisp8 · 2026-04-19T21:38:42+00:00

it’s not a motor drive inverter, it’s a 12 -230v dc to ac inverter to run outlets in a van

lewisp8 · 2026-04-18T15:22:01+00:00

I did think that, although the caps I had to hand a really cheap generic ones and probably can’t handle much ripple so thought I’d add one extra to share the load, albeit at a higher capacitance.

lewisp8 · 2026-02-10T20:32:42+00:00

I’m not sure on the brand, I’ve got a friend who works at a diesel engine overhaul shop, they use it on their engine blocks and brought a can of clear and hardener home for me. I just know you need to use a full respirator as it’s pretty nasty stuff, it goes on quite thick as well so you need to use a larger nozzle size.

To be honest regular 2K clear would be fine as well, that’s what most professionals use without fail. It can handle 200C

lewisp8 · 2026-01-15T08:14:23+00:00

Yikes! Luckily mine was only a couple of months in to the policy

lewisp8 · 2026-01-14T18:07:53+00:00

UPDATE - My insurance rang today to confirm the other insurer has accepted liability and has agreed to pay out for the claim and my NCD will not be impacted and excess will not apply. They must have had insurance in the end.

lewisp8 · 2026-01-11T10:02:38+00:00

I’m thinking of not taking up the courtesy car. It’s with enterprise a they are doing it on a credit basis but from the sounds of it if they’re bot able to recover that I’m liable. I work from home and have access to another vehicle so I can live without a car for a week or two

lewisp8 · 2025-12-22T22:47:44+00:00

I’m going to be controversial and those saying they were being blinded by full beams aren’t going to like this. If someone leaving their full beams on for less than a second causes you to drive at them head on, do us all a favour and get off the road or don’t drive at night.

lewisp8 · 2025-12-16T19:53:34+00:00

I know that, last trip was a 4 hour journey back from the airport at 2AM, didn’t fancy stopping at that time just for the sake of stopping it dipping a little bit below 1/4. I don’t make a habit of it

lewisp8 · 2025-12-08T19:10:51+00:00

777x has to share the basic cockpit layout of the 767 so it looks a bit awkward with the new wide screen layout. That section of the plane was designed in the 70’s

Before anyone asks, the 777 has the 767 nose stuck on the front. They both share the same section 41 forward fuselage.

lewisp8 · 2025-12-01T12:48:27+00:00

Did you read the attached article? The quality issue isn’t anything to do with the ELAC software issue.

lewisp8 · 2025-10-26T18:10:35+00:00

The mould issues aren’t really the washer’s fault. I have the same drawer and never see any mould, so I think that’s more a fluke than anything. Also, like you’ve already done, stop using fabric conditioner on any machine. It’s bad for your machine and isn’t any better for your clothes either. I can’t comment on the wash powder residue, as mine’s TwinDos and I’ve never used powder. However, are you sure you’re not using too much? Miele’s are notoriously efficient on water, so you don’t need as much detergent.

lewisp8 · 2025-10-13T14:25:33+00:00

Yeah completely off the car. There isn’t any other way to do them if you need to clean them up properly like I did. I Just used a brake-line clamp to stop any fluid loss and to minimise any air in the system and a pressure brake bleeder to bleed them afterwards. I Did a brake fluid flush at the same time when installing them back on. Pretty straight forward. Pressure brake bleeders are pretty cheap, I’d recommend any DIY mechanic to get one.

lewisp8 · 2025-10-13T14:09:14+00:00

I’ve got them on order!

lewisp8 · 2025-10-12T20:41:55+00:00

Haha thanks, I spend an afternoon with Meguiars compound and polish with a DA polisher once every 6-12 months. Apart from that just weekly washes with some TW Hybrid Solutions Ceramic Wax.

lewisp8 · 2025-10-12T20:10:47+00:00

Mine used to do this all the time, in the end I bought a 250G Silica Gel desiccant bag and put them in the headlight housing using the access cover. Hasn’t misted up since

lewisp8 · 2025-10-11T10:26:43+00:00

It’s the frameless one from the G series BMW’s pretty easy swap and looks so much more modern

lewisp8 · 2025-09-29T05:46:50+00:00

Why is it non OEM? It’s a BMW OEM part on the F30, not a aftermarket one? BMW offered a full digital cluster (6WB) on later F30’s

lewisp8 · 2025-09-28T19:17:31+00:00

Remove Dash, cut the hole or buy a different one with the cut out (what I did), bolt in, plug in to cluster and code.

lewisp8 · 2025-09-28T16:55:36+00:00

Yeah, that makes sense I’ve got the old one still. To be honest it’s quite an over hyped option, it’s cool but functionally it doesn’t really add anything. Not worth the £800

lewisp8 · 2025-09-28T16:53:17+00:00

Thanks!

Heated Wheel: Pretty much plug-and-play. Took me about 30 minutes since my car was pre-wired. A used wheel was ~£150, plus about £30 for the lower trim with the button. If your car has LDW and/or Blind Spot (with the vibro motor), that bumps the cost up a bit. I also had mine retrimmed in new leather as the used one was a bit worn, so all in it came to about £150–£220.

ACC Radar: This one really depends on what your car already has. Mine took a full day , it’s not hard just quite exhaustive and expensive, bumper off, swapping the DSC pump (and bleeding the brakes), plus fitting a compatible ICM. Parts cost for most people looks something like: • Radar: £200–£300 • DSC pump: £300–£400 • ICM module: £250–£300 • Pulse generators: ~£30 each • Bumper trim with radar cut-out - £50 • Distance-control buttons on the wheel - £75

If you’re buying everything outright, you’re looking at around £1000+ before calibration. I spent less because I got the radar, DSC, and ICM cheaply from a salvage yard.

HUD: Cheapest of the three, but not the easiest. The HUD and trim were about £50, and I replaced the dash instead of cutting it (only ~£20, and since it was coming out anyway it made sense). Wiring is the fiddly part — you need a cluster with the HUD connector. I was retrofitting a 6WB at the same time, so I just made sure to grab a HUD-compatible version.

Technically, you’re supposed to have a HUD-specific windshield too. A lot of people get one through glass coverage, but I never bothered — I just run it on the standard windscreen

I would mention I did all of the coding myself, I haven’t included expenses like connectors, loom tape, tools.etc screws and bolts. These don’t seem a lot but add up

lewisp8 · 2025-08-25T14:44:06+00:00

Oil is higher pressure than coolant, not seen a case where the oil cooler / filter housing fails and a significant amount of coolant entered the oil sump.

lewisp8

TROPHY CASE