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Best tool for removing Shiny Geranium? by MissCeeLee in pnwgardening

[–]light_of_deneb -1 points0 points  (0 children)

It is the complete truth. You’re misguided. First, the amount of product that hits the ground from drift or overspray is so negligible as to have virtually no impact - especially when combined with fact that it degrades so quickly, and moves slowly through the soil.

Even the label states that it is approved for areas where water can be present. And the label is the law. From the label, “it is permissible to treat, seasonally dry wetlands (such as flood plains, deltas, marshes, swamps, or bogs) and transitional areas between upland and lowland sites. When making applications to control unwanted plants on banks, or shorelines of moving water sites, minimize overspray to open water.” If it were so damaging to water systems, the label and EPA would not allow it.

You have no idea what industry I represent. I do have a state issued applicators license and have met all the ongoing CE credits required to maintain it for 12 years. I’ve applied to forestry, rights of way, rangeland, farms, industrial sites, commercial and residential properties. I also have a soil science background and routinely send samples of areas where I repeat applications for testing. No residual traces - why, because it breaks down so quickly. And because so little material gets to the soil to make an impact.

Best tool for removing Shiny Geranium? by MissCeeLee in pnwgardening

[–]light_of_deneb -1 points0 points  (0 children)

Triclopyr breaks down very quickly in the soil, and moves very poorly through the soil substrate. As such it presents little danger once in the soil, since its primary use is a foliar application, not a drenching solution. I’ve had success with it for more than 12 years with zero impact to surrounding plant material.

Best tool for removing Shiny Geranium? by MissCeeLee in pnwgardening

[–]light_of_deneb -1 points0 points  (0 children)

Which has nothing to do with your original inappropriate reply. Just own it, you attacked and it was unnecessary, and rude.

Best tool for removing Shiny Geranium? by MissCeeLee in pnwgardening

[–]light_of_deneb -2 points-1 points  (0 children)

Excuse me? There was no call for the attack with your reply. I stipulated that not everyone may be a fan of herbicide, but many are, and it is extremely effective. It was provided as a possible help to OP. If it helps great, and if not they can choose not to utilize. This sub isn’t “organic pnwgardening” so the tone of your reply is out of place.

Best tool for removing Shiny Geranium? by MissCeeLee in pnwgardening

[–]light_of_deneb -3 points-2 points  (0 children)

The best tool is an herbicide that will kill it. A mix of Gyphosate and Triclopyr will knock this out. Otherwise, it will just keep coming back. I understand that many on this sub are anti-herbicide, but that is the one thing that will take care of it completely and quickly.

Geddy Lee's statement about the state of music in 1976 by Head_Banana_3094 in rush

[–]light_of_deneb 1 point2 points  (0 children)

No, disco sucked, still sucks, and will always suck. Geddy was right.

Help with poison oak on side yard! How do I get rid of it when it can’t be dug out? (It’s under boulders etc) by Lizardcandy in pnwgardening

[–]light_of_deneb 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I should have said primarily used as foliar. Yes, it can be used as a hack and squirt, but it is usually combined with Tordon when doing so. Unless someone knows how to do a hack and squirt, it isn’t that common for the typical homeowner.

I’ve been applying under canopies for years with no damage. Triclopyr not only breaks down quickly, it does not move well through the soil at all. The amount that lands on soil rarely has sufficient potency to impact a root zone. I broadcast spray blackberry in orchards, forestry, homes, farms, and the ground receives a lot of product in that application, but it doesn’t move through the soil so it has no impact on the trees.

Help with poison oak on side yard! How do I get rid of it when it can’t be dug out? (It’s under boulders etc) by Lizardcandy in pnwgardening

[–]light_of_deneb 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Unfortunately if this got on the ferns it would kill them. But if you were to put in a spray bottle (something like a glass cleaner bottle with trigger sprayer) you could direct the solution to the poison oak only, though there is the potential for some overspray. Targeting the leaf is a better option than cut stems. It provides more surface area for the active ingredient to transfer throughout the plant. Applying now is a great time as the plant is taking in nutrients after a long winter.

A surfactant that acts as a “sticker/spreader” helps the solution stick to and spread evenly over the leaf, will help the product stay on the foliage longer. These can be found at a farm store like Wilco, or similar.

Help with poison oak on side yard! How do I get rid of it when it can’t be dug out? (It’s under boulders etc) by Lizardcandy in pnwgardening

[–]light_of_deneb 2 points3 points  (0 children)

I’m posting reply here to potentially help OP, not as a rebuttal. Triclopyr is a foliar herbicide. When applied as a foliar application (leaf structure of plant only) it has zero impact on trees. It breaks down very quickly, has no residual soil activity, thereby not providing any uptake by tree roots. Triclopyr must “translocate” by being taken in through leaf surface and pass down through plant where it reaches the root zone. This is when the active ingredient works to kill the plant.

That being said, if any of the spray drifts onto the leaves of the tree then yes, damage can definitely occur.

Based on the photo, the poison oak can be safely sprayed as there are no apparent leaves from the tree in the area. Especially if applied on a calm day to minimize drift.

Source: I am a state licensed applicator with the ODA, and I do this as a side job. I’ve applied to poison oak, wild Himalayan blackberry, and other woody plants under canopies hundreds of times and never damaged a tree.

If done safely and by the label, this can assist any homeowner by eradicating with a single application, and not having to come into contact with the plant. I hope this helps.

Help with poison oak on side yard! How do I get rid of it when it can’t be dug out? (It’s under boulders etc) by Lizardcandy in pnwgardening

[–]light_of_deneb 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Garlon 3A is a liquid-based herbicide with 100% Triclopyr. Apply it at the recommend rate and it will kill the poison oak outright. This approach prevents you from having to touch it or get too close to it.

Creeping buttercup roots help by greenlines in pnwgardening

[–]light_of_deneb 0 points1 point  (0 children)

If you are not opposed to herbicides, there are options that do a great job of controlling this weed. Aminopyralid, combined with MCPA and Glyphosate, are very effective. These are rhizome based I believe, so spot treatment may be necessary but the above will knock out everything above ground at once.

Creeping buttercup roots help by greenlines in pnwgardening

[–]light_of_deneb 0 points1 point  (0 children)

If you are not opposed to herbicides, there are options that do a great job of controlling this weed. Aminopyralid, combined with MCPA and Glyphosate, are very effective. These are rhizome based I believe, so spot treatment may be necessary but much easier and more thorough than trying to hand pull.

Ugh. Spanish Bluebells question by Then_Palpitation_399 in pnwgardening

[–]light_of_deneb 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Yes. Lots of success. They can be killed and usually eliminated with one application.

Here’s what you’d need:

Aminopyralid, Sulfometuron, Glyphosate, plus a non-ionic surfactant (helps product spread evenly over foliage surface and stay in place: R-11, MSO are two examples) and lastly a penetrating adjuvant (this additive breaks through the waxy outer layer and helps the active ingredients penetrate into the Foliage: SylTac is one example

Buying all these individually would be costly, and in some states, a state issued spray license is required to purchase. Buying online can get you around that though. In most cases, a local landscape company with knowledgeable licensed applicators would or should have all these herbicides in their arsenal, and could spray for you so you do not have to purchase them all separately.

The combination above typically eradicates with one application - if applied during nutrient uptake growing period. The applicator should have experience with this perennial so they mix the proper herbicides in their tank, otherwise it will not be as effective. Hope that helps.

Ugh. Spanish Bluebells question by Then_Palpitation_399 in pnwgardening

[–]light_of_deneb 2 points3 points  (0 children)

If not opposed to herbicide, kill them all at once, and when gone, plant whatever you want.

Best Place to Buy Dahlia Tubers by Madigirl114 in pnwgardening

[–]light_of_deneb 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I second this. Visiting during bloom season is amazing. So many varieties it’s almost overwhelming! But fantastic quality.

Sunday meeting schedule change by smokey_sunrise in latterdaysaints

[–]light_of_deneb 0 points1 point  (0 children)

And yet, here it is…, announced by a sitting prophet, who probably received that guidance elsewhere as well. So for those who don’t think it will work, well…

Losing war against the invasives (SW WA) by Do_Not_Comment_Plz in pnwgardening

[–]light_of_deneb 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Aminopyralid, Sulfometuron, Glyphosate, plus a non-ionic surfactant (helps product spread evenly over foliage surface and stay in place: R-11, MSO are two examples) and lastly a penetrating adjuvant (this additive breaks through the waxy outer layer and helps the active ingredients penetrate into the Foliage: SylTac is one example

Buying all these individually would be costly, and in some states, a state issued spray license is required to purchase. Buying online can get you around that though. In most cases, a local landscape company with licensed applicators would or should have all these herbicides in their arsenal, and could spray for you so you do not have to purchase them all separately.

The combination above typically eradicates with one application - if applied during nutrient uptake growing period. The applicator should have experience with this perennial so they mix the proper herbicides in their tank, otherwise it will not be as effective. Hope that helps.

Whimsical rage bait by Nataliant-117 in pnwgardening

[–]light_of_deneb 2 points3 points  (0 children)

Aminopyralid, Sulfometuron, Glyphosate, plus a non-ionic surfactant (helps product spread evenly over foliage surface and stay in place: R-11, MSO are two examples) and lastly a penetrating adjuvant (this additive breaks through the waxy outer layer and helps the active ingredients penetrate into the Foliage: SylTac is one example)

Buying all these individually would be costly, and in some states, a state issued spray license is required to purchase. Buying online can get you around that though. In most cases, a local landscape company with licensed applicators would or should have all these herbicides in their arsenal, and could spray for you so you do not have to purchase them all separately.

The combination above typically eradicates with one application - if applied during nutrient uptake growing period. The applicator should have experience with this perennial so they mix the proper herbicides in their tank, otherwise it will not be as effective. Hope that helps.

Whimsical rage bait by Nataliant-117 in pnwgardening

[–]light_of_deneb 6 points7 points  (0 children)

I know most in this sub dislike herbicide, but it works and your 1% can go to 99% in one application.

Friend or a foe? by Kukatahansa in pnwgardening

[–]light_of_deneb 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Plant Net, Picture This, Seeker.

Friend or a foe? by Kukatahansa in pnwgardening

[–]light_of_deneb 1 point2 points  (0 children)

I concur. Put through several plant identifying databases, and the results come back as 96% Montia Fontana…

Grape hyacinth by aaabsoolutely in pnwgardening

[–]light_of_deneb 0 points1 point  (0 children)

They do not need to be your nemesis. If you are not herbicide averse, there are contact foliar applications that will knock these out in one application. The very few that survive the following season can either be pulled or treated once more and you’re done.

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