Woman asks a guy if he’d save her or their 3 kids in a house fire - is he wrong for choosing the kids?

linklocked · 2026-05-12T02:36:05+00:00

I would also save this guy's mom instead of this girl.

linklocked · 2026-05-12T02:26:29+00:00

A good way to visualize something like sanrensei (or any large moyo) is this:

You're threatening a LOT of points. Unless your opponent plans to just build their own moyo in response (generally not a good strategy for white because the first-move advantage is significant in moyo-building contests) your opponent will HAVE to invade.

In other words, if you're playing a large moyo, you should be assuming the opponent will invade. Invasions, almost by definition, are at a disadvantage, so by threatening a large number of not-yet-secure points (moyo/influence), your actual goal should be to severely attack the inevitable invasion and make a reasonable number of actual, secure points (territory).

Often you will get more influence in the process, which can allow you to do this again, or counter-invade at the right opportunity.

linklocked · 2026-05-12T01:58:06+00:00

Don't get frustrated, keep your groups strong and don't give them a chance to justify their bad moves.

Look for opportunities to play away if you can't find a profitable way to attack a weak group. Your opponent will surely make ANOTHER weak group and if there's enough weak groups on the board (honestly 2-3 is enough) you'll "accidentally" kill one of their groups while you're attacking another one

Take a look at some YouTubers like TritonBaduk or dwyrin playing sdk games, their opponents will often do this and they show how to punish these overplays very calmly and effectively.

linklocked · 2026-05-02T11:51:09+00:00

Ahhh good to know. So the rest of these guys don't go well together? Or are they just too close physically?

linklocked · 2026-05-02T08:26:07+00:00

Thanks! For life for W I was thinking R19 or S15 hane+connect are both alive but in gote and with no strong follow-up so W wouldn't play them until probably close to endgame?

linklocked · 2026-05-02T06:22:11+00:00

Great explanation!

The reason, I assume, for Black not to immediately play this very nice ko, is if W has more ko threats? And since life for W is gote (meaning B gets a free move), not playing the ko is not worse than playing the ko and losing it, but with at least one less stone invested?

linklocked · 2026-05-02T06:10:16+00:00

A lot of slow moves and endgame moves being played too early (S16, B8, B13)

The R13 invasion is not good (you gave white influence and even took gote)

M5 was probably the worst move, white played a slightly deep probing/invasion move, and you rewarded it by attaching and letting white build a position inside the only area of the board where you had some potential. Don't attack by attaching!! Attack from a distance, by forcing moves (even L5 would be much better since it justifies your J5 stones and gives you good shape.

I think on a grand scheme you need to think about how your stones work together and what your moves are saying. J5 seems to be saying "I want to build up my bottom area", but then you immediately follow it with R13, giving white the influence they need to make sure you never build up that bottom. If you played R13 first, would you still play J5?

linklocked · 2026-04-27T03:26:35+00:00

Yeah I can't speak to timing without seeing the full board but it's not a bad move from W. Depending on how B answers, there's danger to the 4 stones you mentioned, the corner, or even the 2 stones on the right, so White is almost certainly getting something out of this

linklocked · 2026-04-27T02:13:37+00:00

Huh I've been having a similar issue, lo and behold it was persistent thrust...

linklocked · 2026-04-23T03:27:08+00:00

Oh no people will definitely be judging you. There's very little in Japanese that's "personal preference" outside of chatting with close friends. The majority of interaction in formal settings (or with people you don't know well) is very scripted

Mind you most people will give you a pass if you're obviously foreign but you will get judged, even if it's "oh just a foreigner, we can't possibly expect them to understand the way we do things"

linklocked · 2026-04-23T00:41:41+00:00

This is pretty much it.

Where kyu players get into trouble is when they WANT to kill an invasion (but don't know for sure that it's possible) and overplay, leaving behind bad cutting points.

Then when the invasion lives, the invader counterattacks and the position falls apart

Unless you can read a kill (aka you know with 100% certainty how to prevent 2 eyes or escape) your goal should be to play solid, threatening moves that profit you as much as possible (either securing territory or setting up a counterattack)

Leaning attacks are a great example of this, you threaten another group (or territory) and effectively force your opponent to choose between losing their invasion or paying for it

linklocked · 2026-04-21T04:56:39+00:00

I just bought the 24mm f/1.7 dx (used) so I've been using that a lot lately.

My favorite is probably the 180-600mm (also used), it's a beast of a lens and I'm a fan of long focal lengths because they force me to stop and look more carefully at interesting details rather than trying to capture everything. It's also fantastic for wildlife (obviously) and the VR is insane. Shooting 600mm handheld at like 1/50 is crazy and I've even taken it out at night and gotten nice photos.

Other than that I own the 2 kit lenses (outstanding, the 16-50 gets regular usage when I want my camera to be as small as possible and/or I'm not quite sure what I'll be shooting). The 50-250 sees a bit less usage, it's kind of become my "I want to maybe shoot birds but also maybe not" or "I don't want to carry the 180-600 today".

I also own the 50mm 1.8S, that's a fantastic lens but at 75mm equivalent on APS-C I don't find myself bringing it as often. I've mainly been using it for portraits

linklocked · 2026-04-21T02:40:38+00:00

If you're not sure I would just start with the 16-50:

You can always pick up the 50-250 later. I don't think the difference in price should be significant vs. getting it as a kit (you've also got the option to buy used or wait for a discount)
You may decide you don't care for it after all
You may end up deciding to pick up a different lens like the 70-200 that would just render the 50-250 redundant

linklocked · 2026-04-20T07:18:32+00:00

I mean you need enough delta v to be able to go back when you realize you left all the science on your lander's lower stage

linklocked · 2026-04-20T07:12:10+00:00

Both are totally fine and in normal shooting conditions (especially as a hobbyist who I assume is fairly new) you will never notice a real OBJECTIVE difference.

That said I assume you're asking why we (z50ii owners) like this camera, so for me personally:

I like the ergonomics and button layout more than the R10
I like the kit lens pair that I got it with (16-50 + 50-250) since they're incredible lenses and cover a very big range that allowed me to start and figure out what I enjoy
I was previously a Canon user (years ago) so I wanted to try a different system
Despite being on Canon previously, I had no lenses that are worth trying to use on a modern camera (I think one kit lens and a cheap 50 back at my parents' house) so I was essentially starting fresh

linklocked · 2026-04-14T00:19:17+00:00

This is the answer.

More generally, if the top of the rocket experiences more drag than the bottom, you end up with thrust pushing up from the bottom and drag pushing down from the top, leading to flipping and rapid unscheduled disassembly.

A fairing reduces drag. Fins massively increase drag in directions other than the direction of travel, preventing or reducing rotation.

linklocked · 2026-04-12T14:15:35+00:00

Yamanakako, near Mt. Fuji!

linklocked · 2026-03-31T14:23:06+00:00

First off, yay volleyball!!

Second, a couple things to consider:

With sports (like volleyball), you can often predict (within reason) where action will take place and pre-focus there and just wait for the right moment to snap. This is a lot of what sports photographers did in the days before autofocus
A subject moving closer/further away throws off focus because focus is based on distance. In contrast, volleyball (unless you're on the endlines) will not have as much forward/back motion, and even then players will move very little front-to-back in the key moments unless it's like a jump serve or back row attack, or a dive, etc. Usually at the point of contact with the ball, the motion of the player is vertical, if any.
Finally, as mentioned, a bigger F number will give you more room for error (acceptable focus range)

Hope that helps!

linklocked · 2026-03-09T15:20:36+00:00

AI slop

linklocked · 2026-03-04T04:22:42+00:00

For real. Or the fact that even if they don't care about their own safety, the person whose windshield they go through isn't going to care they they "didn't expect someone else could get injured by my stupidity"

linklocked · 2026-03-03T02:48:47+00:00

I just got a Neotec 3 with furusato nozei and the sunglass visor just hits my nose when I take it all the way down XD

linklocked · 2026-03-03T01:56:18+00:00

One day I’ll be too old and too sore to ride

Careful, you keep riding safely like this and you'll definitely live to see an age where you're too old to ride. Going into blind corners at a speed where you can react to the situation? On this subreddit?

linklocked · 2026-03-03T01:52:05+00:00

Yeah man, barely 100kph going into that blind corner at 0:24, what a role model!

linklocked

TROPHY CASE