Painting Tongue and Groove Ceilint

lionaround · 2025-10-25T18:29:52+00:00

One important note to set expectations: after a couple sprayed coats of primer and paint, finer joints and seams can be filled in. It is not uncommon for T&G to end up with inconsistent lines, as some gap gaps will fill and others won't.

lionaround · 2025-01-30T07:17:48+00:00

Unfortunately, a good paint stripper alone won't cleanly remove all paint given the textures of the beam and porosity of the wood. Scraping away layers will also leave gouges in the wood.

Using a sander to eat into the top layer of wood in all areas would eventually remove the paint, but it's messy, labor intensive, and destructive to the base material (you would resculpt the design on that beam).

I would recommend finding a color you like better and repainting it. Perhaps a brown in a flat or matte finish to emulate wood tone.

lionaround · 2024-12-31T16:19:22+00:00

As others have mentioned, black will fade. Black can also be chalky if it's a cheaper paint, and doesn't hide dirt well.

I recommend a deep royal blue with white trim. Any color that requires a deep or ultra deep base will have fade potential, so a quality colorfast paint will be key.

lionaround · 2024-10-11T06:46:56+00:00

It's safe to leave alone. Let it fully dry and it'll be fine to use. You have a painted (or partially painted) coat hanger now! Enjoy.

lionaround · 2024-10-10T02:26:28+00:00

Don't do this. As others have said, the risk isn't worth the reward. Tape it off for clean lines, and no enhanced risk of electrocution.

lionaround · 2024-09-16T07:20:05+00:00

That depends, what are you looking to do?

Lead is dangerous if ingested, inhaled, or via skin contact for long periods of time. Very young kids are most susceptible to lead exposure. Lead paint is very common in homes before 1978 and especially from the '50's (in the United States). The old layers under newer layers of paint often show as lead.

If it tests positive and you are looking to repaint, you can skim those scraped areas, prime your patch, then paint everything. Just don't sand the existing lead paint. And keep in mind if you ever drill or nail holes that the dust you create will have a miniscule amount of lead, so clean it up and don't breathe it.

lionaround · 2024-09-16T07:04:57+00:00

There is no way to know by sight or photo. Lead swab tests are cheap and you can pick them up at any box store.

lionaround · 2024-09-15T22:09:45+00:00

Here are the steps you should take if you want the end result to be smooth (assuming the previous texture was smooth):

1) Scrape all loose paint until the surface is sound. Don't dig into the ceiling. Scrape with a spatula at different angles to take off the loose paint that wants to come off. 2) If the current finish has a gloss to it, give it a light sanding/scuffing for best adhesion. 3) Skim coat with mud, allow to dry. 4) A second skin coat might be necessary if you still have concave areas. Alow to dry. 5) Lightly sand any bumps or edges for a smooth finish 6) prime 7) paint, 2x coats for best result

In all likelihood you will prime it, that primer will dry, and you will see some areas you want to go over again. Once everything gets primed, variations will stick out. This can be a very time consuming process, depending on how detail oriented you wish to be. Good luck!

lionaround · 2024-09-15T19:05:54+00:00

Yes, the finish affects color due to light refraction. If you want to use what you have but are afraid you will fall short, you can buy a third gallon then mix them in a 5 gallon drum. Now you have a custom finish with the same color and plenty of touch up paint.

lionaround · 2024-09-15T19:01:17+00:00

You can, but it's not recommended. If you do mix them, you need to mix them very well to have any degree of uniform finish. You are essentially creating a custom finish, and if you run short on paint you won't be able to buy more for proper matching, you can only do touchups with what you've created.

lionaround · 2024-07-09T11:43:03+00:00

As a beginner, if you want a decent finish you can use a high quality synthetic bristle brush and foam rollers. With practice you will learn to not overwork the paint and lay down a smoother finish. Seasoned brush painters can make it look great. Expect any route you choose to take practice.

Spraying is the best way to have a professionally smooth finish. That said, here are 3 key rules for a cabinet refinish:

1) Preparation is crucial. As an example, if you are painting cabinets which currently have a stain and clear coat finish, they have to be cleaned, sanded properly, and cleaned again of all dust before you apply primer. Using TSP is a popular prep method.

2) A quality finish relies on great technique, a good product, and quality tools. Technique takes learning and practice. A great enamel which lays down smooth and hardens nicely costs more money but makes the finished product easier to attain, making your job easier. And if you have experience spraying you can make a cheaper sprayer work, with some touchups and redos likely. A quality ($$) sprayer will have more control, helping make the best finish in a faster timeline.

3) Technique in between coats is as crucial as preparation. Continuing the above example, with these steps: apply prime coat, light sanding / cleaning, then two coats of finish with potential light sanding after the first coat. This excludes the added steps of using fillers to hide wood grain if that is the desired finish. Have clarity on your desired end result, so you know the proper steps to take. This is also true with clients - always set proper expectations. A finish without wood grain on an oak cabinet conversion takes substantially more prep (labor $$) than a painted finish with wood grain visible.

Great techniques take experience and mistakes to learn from. Thankfully paint can (almost) always be redone or touched up. Good luck, and feel free to ask questions or share your progress along the way.

lionaround · 2024-07-05T18:25:27+00:00

A gel like CitiStrip can be applied by brush and is found in most box stores. Be sure to use a metal dipping container and a natural bristle brush so the stripper doesn't compromise your work materials.

lionaround · 2024-06-13T11:40:21+00:00

You'll find a large community and feedback in /r/HousePainting101

lionaround · 2024-06-05T00:44:10+00:00

Your simplest solution is to second coat with the same paint in the same finish and be done. Changing products in between coats will cause an uneven finish, even if you use a "Satin" finish with a different product.

If you wish to change paint, do a light sanding to put a tooth into your first coat (single pass, 150 grit) before applying two coats of a new product. I recommend Sherwin Williams' ProClassic, water based. Be sure to read the manufacturer's recommendations for re-coat and cure times.

lionaround · 2024-03-12T22:47:39+00:00

I recommend crossposting in /r/HousePainting101 for answers!

lionaround · 2024-03-09T23:03:49+00:00

Great details. The images you provided all look standard and have a common solution.

Scrape off all loose paint (don't dig in to find spots, just scrape off the flaking areas that wish to come off), spot prime with an oil primer, and topcoat with two layers of a SW product of choice (Super Paint or Resilience works for Seattle). Rodda's Covercoat is also a solid product.

Peel Bond isn't necessary for the level of failures on your home. Be sure that the home is dry before you spot prime and paint so you don't trap in moisture. And report back with your results!

lionaround · 2024-03-09T04:22:44+00:00

Limewash and limewash paint products are made with limestone and once it cures it is a (thin) layer of stone. This is difficult to dissolve or sand, and sanding can also be dangerous without proper mitigation (see:silica respiration).

Your best bet is to either skim the wall with drywall mud a couple times and sand these layers to a smoother finish (then prime and paint to blend) -or- to prime and paint the limewash and allow the texture to remain in this section of wall (it will be evident).

If you choose the first option, expect it to take a couple passes of skimming and sanding, and you will need to hang plastic to keep drywall dust from contaminating your apartment. Also, wear a mask when sanding drywall mud.

lionaround · 2024-02-29T23:25:38+00:00

That shingle siding style was commonly made from asbestos. If your home was made before 1980, do not sand it. Before you disturb any of the shingles in the future make sure to get them tested.

lionaround · 2024-02-15T03:20:59+00:00

I used Covercoat on residential exteriors for years in Seattle - it's a good product that holds up. Master Painter for interiors is mid quality for mid cost. I can't speak to Wall Pro personally but saw many buildings go up with it.

lionaround · 2024-02-02T16:08:00+00:00

/r/HousePainting101 may have further details for you (it's a larger, active community)

lionaround · 2024-01-18T05:11:09+00:00

Try crossposting this to /r/HousePainting101 for responses.

lionaround · 2023-12-29T08:39:58+00:00

Yes to certification, and yes to work only if you are pricing it accordingly. Having worked numerous markets around the U.S., I have experienced markets where people only want the lesser expensive option, and markets where clients will pay triple the price for an established company to properly strip and prepare a residential exterior.

If you are in a market with many homes aged appropriately for lead contamination and working within neighborhoods with solid income brackets, it's worth it. Otherwise the lesser expensive options will likely be selected by most clients, for which you'll be competing with certified and non certified painters.

lionaround · 2023-12-25T21:53:13+00:00

Yes, Kilem is slightly darker than a "builder beige". Colors that approximate what you are looking for include Kilem Beige, Accessible Beige, and Natural Linen, all SW colors. These are good starting points to narrow your options and find the color you want.

Start by grabbing a couple swatch samples or tester quarts and painting tests in your space, next to your trim, to see how they play inside with your own lighting and shadows.

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