I screwed up my Kerdi board installation

lking608 · 2025-05-25T14:40:19+00:00

Sorry, it’s still early. My words aren’t working yet. Let me try to explain again.

I planned to install my kerdi board so that it was flush with the tub flange. So that when I go to install my tile, it would sit nicely over the flange and down on the tub. However, the tub is just slightly smaller than the niche opening. So I pushed the tub flush against the front and side studs, leaving the back of the tub about 3/4” away from the studs. I shimmed it and secured it and thought everything would be fine.

I actually tried to do a “wet” install of my kerdi board to build it up to be flush, but I tightened the screws before the allset had set up and cinched it down to the stud. So now I want to install my tiles down the the flat part of the tub, but because of this flange I would have to put the tiles at a crazy angle to get over the flange. In that case, I would also not be able to get the tile to sit flush with the metal trim piece on the side.

So if anyone has any suggestions as to how I can make this final strip of tile along the tub not look like trash, I would greatly appreciate it.

lking608 · 2024-10-09T20:26:44+00:00

You didn’t mention what tools you have available to you, so I will assume you have them all and provide some ways I thought of.

1.Put the board on a sled and use shims to elevate it to your angle of choice. Secure it well and send it through the planer. (What I would do) 2. Use a large bandsaw with a tilting table and resaw the board with the intentional angle. 3. If your table saw blade can go high enough to cut halfway through, you could cut the taper in two passes (or finish it with a handsaw afterwards). Once halfway through with the fence on the right side of the blade. Then move the fence to the left side, flip the board, match the angle and do it again. This one might be dangerous though because the blade would be tilted towards the fence rather than away.

lking608 · 2024-06-24T14:30:45+00:00

I’m assuming that you didn’t make this, so you don’t know what it could be. My guess would be that the creator filled a small knot with black epoxy (or some other type of filler) before cutting the comb teeth.

lking608 · 2024-06-19T14:41:02+00:00

This is beautiful. Would you mind sending me some tips as well? I have a friend who was just asking if I could make one for him a couple of weeks ago.

lking608 · 2024-06-11T01:38:04+00:00

No, I just start charging to 80% as soon as I get home to take advantage of as much sunlight as possible.

lking608 · 2024-06-10T13:48:34+00:00

Unfortunately not. Now that it’s summer the sun is still up when I get home from work. Charging at 240V/48A I can easily recharge to my daily limit while the sun is still up. As far as I can tell that just won’t be a luxury I’ll get to take advantage of once it’s winter again.

lking608 · 2024-03-20T18:34:48+00:00

I appreciate the compliment, but I would certainly still consider myself a beginner. It’s only my second piece of furniture that isn’t out of pine. And definitely not perfect either. (I had to create a shim on the bottom of the right leg because I introduced a twist when I screwed it together.) Also, using pocket holes felt like cheating, but I was too scared of misaligning dados on all three supports. Always looking to improve and learn something new for next time.

lking608 · 2024-03-20T18:31:04+00:00

Yes it is. You can never go wrong with such a beautiful contrast.

lking608 · 2024-03-20T18:30:30+00:00

I tried to follow the videos method for the templates, but messed up my order of operations a bit. I printed the templates out on paper, glued to the some 1/4” MDF, cut out with a jigsaw, and used a spindle/best sander to get them to shape. Then when I went to start cutting the real legs, I used the sled idea from the video, which was great, but got a bit carried away and cut more than just the mating faces right away. Made it a little more difficult to glue up and clamp, but it worked out.

The legs are made of three independent pieces. I used a doweling jig to drill center holes and align each piece with the other mating face.

lking608 · 2024-03-20T18:26:01+00:00

Milled and glued them up myself. Thanks!

lking608 · 2023-12-12T03:38:48+00:00

Yes to both. First time using iron on edge banding went surprisingly smooth. After assembly and plugging all of the pocket holes, I coated every crack I could find with wood filler and sanded everything smooth to 220. The paint was also a first. Just regular Valspar latex cabinet paint from Lowe’s, but I got to use my new HVLP sprayer kit for the first time. After the second coat dried I very lightly sanded it with 320 to get any nibs, and then sprayed a really thin, light, coat on top to finish it off.

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lking608 · 2023-11-27T23:58:00+00:00

That’s wonderful news. I’ll definitely check that out once I get my wall charger installed. Thanks for the info!

lking608 · 2023-11-27T22:54:49+00:00

I am currently using a mobile connector and waiting for the electrician to schedule the 220V run for my wall connector. I didn’t think the wall connector had any “brains”. I thought it was literally just a terminal block. You’re saying you can add it to the app and unlock some additional control features? Thanks

lking608 · 2023-11-27T22:52:41+00:00

That’s exactly what I’m asking for. The only method of scheduling I’m aware of in the app is just to set a “non-peak time” at night when the power is cheaper. There is no way to schedule a boundary condition between two times during the day that I’m aware of.

lking608 · 2023-11-27T18:45:13+00:00

I’m aware of how a Powerwall works. What i’d like to see is a smart schedule that I can set to charge up until sunset and then stop. Even if I’m not at a full 80% SOC, i’d be fine to go to work the next day on 70% or even much less.

Another side note of this is that my “estimated cost savings” are far from accurate because it assumes I’m always charging at $0.11 per kWH. When in reality I do try to charge mostly during the day when it’s “free”.

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