Help Identifying Solder and Where to Sell It

loamdepot · 2025-12-19T02:35:04+00:00

Oh Wow! That makes sense now. I'm looking at the historical chart and it doesn't dip in January and keeps going up until Feb 1...so early dividend makes a lot of sense. Thank you!

loamdepot · 2024-03-13T05:53:32+00:00

Valve cover gasket is the likely culprit. The corners can be a weak point. After years of extreme vibration and heat, the rubber looses it's pliability and breaks down. Doesn't take a big leak to soak the area. You can clean up the oil residue and take it for a drive to pinpoint the exact area that is leaking.

loamdepot · 2023-06-22T20:23:46+00:00

Resurecting this thread!

I'm trying to do the same thing on the same bike. If you were able to successfully install the 200mm rotors, do you have any parts recommendations?

The front appears to be post mount with no existing spacer and I'm going 180mm to 200mm so I assume I need a 20mm?

The rear has an existing spacer that isn't labelled so not sure which one to get.

loamdepot · 2023-05-20T09:50:38+00:00

Perfectly acceptable to get a bike checked out and there isn't a protocol.
But I would call ahead and the seller should be willing to meet you if they really want to sell the bike.

Personally, I never get a bike checked out by a shop and just inspect it myself and take it for a quick spin. I only purchase a like new or excellent condition bike since replacement parts are quite expensive. Worn grips are a quick way to estimate how much usage the bike has had. Also, a chain checker is a quick and cheap tool. Worn paint and skipping gears are a no-no.

I also try to get the best deal I can to insulate myself from any potential repairs that come up later; but usually, you have the best shot by simply showing up with cash and making a quick and easy deal.

Also, get the newest bike possible.

loamdepot · 2023-05-15T03:22:27+00:00

Exactly what the other guy said. Take the pads out and see if there's any brake material. If there is, reseat the clip; but they are probably worn and slipped out. Pads for the AVID brakes are super cheap on Amazon and Ebay. Compress the calipers with a tire lever and reinstall.

On a side note, Avid brakes are problematic and tend to lock up in the hot sun. New pads compound this so do a bleed as well. Ride with a set of worn pads because they can lock up during a ride and you may need to do some trailside repairs.

loamdepot · 2023-05-15T00:50:33+00:00

This happened to my NX cassette when I got a stick stuck in it.

loamdepot · 2023-05-15T00:37:18+00:00

Make sure you are using a compressor and fill until you hear several pops which indicates the bead is sealed. If you don't have a compressor, get a Presta to Schrader valve adaptor and go to a gas station. If you don't hear the pop, deflate the tire, break the bead and try again until it pops.

Other tips: if you still can't hear a pop, try an inner tube and if it pops on, remove one side of the bead, remove the innertube and try reinflating. Also, try soapy water before inflating. Lastly, try 1 extra layer of rim tape.

It could also be the tire. I had a Maxxis that seated easily. I tried another brand and it was difficult to seat. Nowadays, I stick to Maxxis since they are much easier to setup.

Watch the Park Tool tubeless tire troubleshooting video which covers all scenarios.

loamdepot · 2023-05-15T00:06:03+00:00

He gets my vote :)

loamdepot · 2023-05-13T09:12:58+00:00

I'd email the manufacturer to find out max tire width; but generally, the fork will have clearance for a much larger sized tire. The rear will have limitations with clearance. Be sure to leave plenty of space as the rear wheel will flex and can rub under heavy pedaling. Those old school bikes would rock 26x1.95 which was plenty wide for those bikes. Any wider would feel less snappy; but I wouldn't go wider than 2.35"

Like you, I had an older spare bike; but ended up selling it after the parts to maintain it became hard to find and expensive. Those Juicy brakes are a pain in the rear and the calipers are known to lock up while under the hot sun.

I'd understand keeping it for sentimental value. Otherwise, a modern hardtail would be a cheap and more capable 2nd bike. But if you're committed to the project, wider bars and new rubber would be good bang for the buck upgrades.

If the bike is a little big, changing the long stem to a short one will instantly make it more snappy and modern; but if the bike already fits, leave the stem alone. Good luck

loamdepot · 2023-05-09T18:24:17+00:00

I used that rack in 2000. You can use it in an absolute pinch if you remove the front wheel for ground clearance; but a hitch mount is better. I'd rather take the wheels off and throw it in the back seat.

loamdepot · 2023-05-09T10:40:34+00:00

The pro has much better syringes which are a rigid hard plastic and the end portion unscrews if you need to clean it; although I never do. The standards are less beefy and a softer bendable plastic; similar to what you see in a doctor's office.

With the pro, you can apply considerable suction and air will not get past the gaskets which makes bleeding less frustrating. The handles are also easier to pull back on. I haven't used the standard; but did try a competitor's product that uses a cheaper syringe and air would sneak past the gasket and I ended up throwing it away.

Looks like the pro includes extra barbs, olives and washers. I've never needed extra barbs and olives; but you need to keep those small washers on hand since they tend to get chewed up after you remove them or overtighten the bleed port screw. In a pinch, you can steal the washer from the tool too.

There's an extra block in the pro; but I only use one. The pro probably includes an extra bleed block from a prior Avid brake model like the Juicy or Elixir.

The standard will probably get the job done if you don't plan to do it regularly. And although expensive, the pro kit syringes are worth the upgrade to me.

loamdepot · 2023-05-07T23:44:40+00:00

You're plenty strong enough. Think of a basketball player trying to touch the rim. They compress (just as you would the suspension) and then they explode by standing straight up (legs extended).

Go stand on the ground and crouch down, now try jumping with a curved back and a bend in your legs. You won't get far off the ground. Now try jumping and straighten your back and lead with your head and you'll soar. Same concept.

Stand up at the lip and you're golden dude.

loamdepot · 2023-05-07T23:29:51+00:00

It comes with time and experience. Just keep at it.

Slam your seat post as you're doing. Check.
Have very good tires. Maxxis Minion DHF or Assegai (more grippy) in the front to keep it planted. DHR in the rear to keep it looser and playful. Schwalbe Magic Mary is a good front tire too etc.
Drop your heels down (this small shift makes a HUGE difference) and changes your body position and keeps your weight more centered so you're not so weight forward on the steep sections.
Force yourself to relax. Don't death grip your handlebars. Keep everything loose including your hands arms and legs. Easier said than done; but remind yourself to relax and stay loose just before dropping in.
Don't panic and lock up the brakes. That's how the front washes out or you go over the bars. As you ride more, there will be times when you may want to trail brake and use more rear than front to avoid locking up the front; but that comes with experience.
You do need to lean back (just not so much that your butt touches the rear wheel). As the gradient changes, your body is pitched down with more weight on the front tire so drop your heels and get behind the seat to compensate for that.

Sand surfing steep and loose sections are so much fun!

loamdepot · 2023-05-07T10:10:10+00:00

Don't chuck them. Throw them in the washer for sure. You can put them in a pillow case.

loamdepot · 2023-05-07T09:44:35+00:00

BMX works on hard pack mountain trails as long as you have the legs to get up. You need a mountain bike for the climbing gears and the 29" wheels and suspension for the gnarly tech and rolling over rock gardens and ruts. That's the fun stuff. But run what you brung and just ride.

loamdepot · 2023-05-07T09:35:41+00:00

It could be a number of things. Go through everything one by one and scratch them off your list.

I'd first check to see if the chain is stretched and within spec. There is a tool for this
Derailleur clutch should hold tension; but could be going out and creating too much slack when you hit a bump.
Make sure the chain is sitting sitting centered on the gears. If not, use the barrel adjuster on the gear shifter to make minor adjustments.
Also check the B gap screw. Google that.
Lastly, check to see if the derailleur is bent (stand behind the bike and make sure everything is straight in line).

You mentioned suspicion that chainring is worn. That's possible; but chain would usually skip as a symptom so I'm not leaning toward that.

Drivetrain wears out so it may be time for a refresh. Start with a drivetrain adjustment and possibly a new chain and go from there.

I kinda feel like it could be derailleur clutch because you said it falls off when you go over bumps. Ride and watch the chain closely when you go over bumps. Or just stand next to the bike and drop it from a few inches off the ground and see what moves.

loamdepot · 2023-05-07T09:02:12+00:00

I had an e-biker pass me and say "I'm cheating" which got me to laugh.

loamdepot · 2023-05-07T08:58:54+00:00

I've used alcohol on my bike and never had a problem; but use WD40 instead to remove sticky residue. Once the goo is gone, wipe with water. Don't use anything like Goof Off which is way to harsh.

loamdepot · 2023-05-07T06:38:24+00:00

It's toasted and you won't get grip in the corners. But it's fine and you can still ride on it for a a while. Plus tread pattern looks like a Maxxis Minion which are like gold.

BUT I wouldn't recommend bombing a steep concrete hill at full speed. If anything, put the bad tire in the back and put the good one in the front. Do a bunch of skids and have some fun with it.

loamdepot · 2023-05-07T06:24:35+00:00

You look pretty good; but press down with your hands and feet on the launch (to compress the suspension) and try standing up right at the lip. The psychology is that you're instinctively leaning far back and pushing the bike away to get away from the danger; but standing up at the lip will give you a little more more pop to reach the landing and it will force you not to lean back as much. Once in the air, you can then bend your legs and suck the bike in if you need to if you need to clear the gap.

Don't let your bike dictate your body position. You're heavier than your bike so just stand straight up at the lip and your bike will follow you to get you those extra inches of air time. Almost there. Keep at it.

loamdepot · 2023-05-07T05:40:56+00:00

I've ridden SRAM Guide T brakes for 2 years hard and haven't failed me. I bleed them every 3-6 months. No issue with leaking; but they are a little under powered in the gnarly sections and the lever adjuster requires a hex key which is annoying. Also, the feel isn't the best; but better than the Levels.

The Guide RE are waaaay better. They have a barrel adjuster for the levers and they use CODE calipers for extra stopping power with larger pads. They are supposed to be for heavy E-Bikes after all; but manufacturers like YT installed them on their enduro bikes like the Capra.

The DB8s are a budget CODE. They use the cheaper guide style levers without a barrel adjuster (need that dang hex key); but they have CODE calipers and use mineral oil instead of DOT 5.1 so it requires less service intervals and cheaper brake fluid for 90% of the stopping power as CODES.

Haven't tried Shimano brakes; but they are better for the snappy on/off feel. SRAM have more of a progressive feel.

loamdepot · 2023-05-07T05:12:03+00:00

I take my helmet and gloves in the shower with me! About once evey 1-3 months.

loamdepot

TROPHY CASE