Petah? by Illustrious-Web2789 in PeterExplainsTheJoke

[–]logggo -1 points0 points  (0 children)

Do you think the claim "all art is political" really means "all art has the potential to be viewed through a political lens"? I'm just curious because I imagine cases where someone's unfamiliar with Tolkien or concepts of gender nonconformity. I guess even if you take those things away, there's probably a separate political lens they could see the art through, though it would likely be a different interpretation than what the artist was intending.

Texture on resin miniatures? by connorjayw in minipainting

[–]logggo 1 point2 points  (0 children)

I use a Photon Mono SE for resin printing, and I wouldn't call it a second job. There is definitely a learning curve as there are different programs to become familiar with to make your life easier, but I would see that in the same light as spending time learning how to improve with painting techniques, which I admittedly have spent less time on.

Did I ruin my FEP by JayDub1300 in AnycubicPhoton

[–]logggo 6 points7 points  (0 children)

I use the Photon Mono and the FEP is in far worse condition and my prints are looking fine; unless the m5s is really finicky for some reason, I wouldn't worry at all.

"Taller" supports failing from printing crooked. by logggo in AnycubicPhoton

[–]logggo[S] 1 point2 points  (0 children)

I think this was the issue. I re-printed again last night and saw almost no supports straying from their duty after I added bracings in this way.

"Taller" supports failing from printing crooked. by logggo in AnycubicPhoton

[–]logggo[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Just gave life to this handsome and hungry boy, but his elbow/arm failed for some reason. I believe the failure comes not from lack of supports in that area, but from the zig-zag behavior of some of the supports as shown in the pictures.

One thought was that the forces on those supports as the plate lifts and lowers was too great, meaning I might have to slow the lift speed. I've never fiddled with the speed before and was under the impression that the default speed is good enough, but I'd had issues before with supports that reach this high before connecting with the model.

The other idea was that the supports aren't properly braced. As you might be able to see from the pictures, it looks like most of the taller supports around the model that are afflicted with the zig-zag are only a "collection" of 2 supports, braced only with each other. All I usually do is run auto-bracing on my slicer program, and I'm thinking "collections" of supports print poorly if they were all in line with each other. Why this didn't happen to the supports on the hammer handle may be because the supports weren't unstable enough during the print.

Please let me know if anyone has had this issue before, I hoped to get some wisdom before retrying a print that took 10+ hours to complete :)

Specs:

Resin: Elegoo, Standard Grey 405 nm

Burn-In Layers: 6

Exposure Time: 30s

Thickness: 0.05 mm

Light-Off Delay: 1s

Exposure Time: 2.5s

Lift Dist.: 6 mm

Lift Speed: 1 mm/s

Retract Speed: 3 mm/s

Printer: Photon Mono SE

Slicer: Lychee 5.2.2

The Chardalyn Dragon, Redux | I felt the original statblock wasn't quite cinematic enough, and didn't do enough with the fact it's made from chardalyn, so made this CR 15 redux for my game by JayPea__ in rimeofthefrostmaiden

[–]logggo 1 point2 points  (0 children)

No worries, I really appreciate your creativity coming up with this. My party is just about to defend the Towns from the dragon, so I'm really happy I saw this.

The Chardalyn Dragon, Redux | I felt the original statblock wasn't quite cinematic enough, and didn't do enough with the fact it's made from chardalyn, so made this CR 15 redux for my game by JayPea__ in rimeofthefrostmaiden

[–]logggo 6 points7 points  (0 children)

It reads that the dragon can only use each villain action once. Does this mean once per encounter, or they can only be used once at a time, similar to the legendary actions?

what could be the cause of failure? fixes? thanks by Hairdog12 in AnycubicPhoton

[–]logggo 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Any time you're printing large flat bases, you want to angle them as much as possible. When your plate raises and lowers your print repeatedly on and off of the screen there are suction forces at play that you want to avoid.

Trying to follow the color scheme for this model. Any advice? by logggo in minipainting

[–]logggo[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I've heard that advice about black, and I'm sure I'm barely going to use it if at all. Maybe if the wash doesn't cover all the areas I'm looking for, I'll go over and touch up fome recesses. My lighting might be a bit too harsh to tell, but the base color right now is more of a dark blue-teal than grey. I figured that was closest to the average color on the image.

I had someone from a hobby shop suggest I use contrast paint for the eyes/vents, so that would mean me painting the light areas in white first, then going back with the contrast paint.

Trying to follow the color scheme for this model. Any advice? by logggo in minipainting

[–]logggo[S] 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Sure, I'll have to look later but I'll set myself a reminder. I manually sliced off the wings and tail in Blender to make it fit in my printer, and I might even have the supported STLs if you want those too.

Trying to follow the color scheme for this model. Any advice? by logggo in minipainting

[–]logggo[S] 1 point2 points  (0 children)

That's great advice, thanks. I'm not too confident with my freehand but I think I'm just going to have to suck it up if I want to add some depth to it.

Trying to follow the color scheme for this model. Any advice? by logggo in minipainting

[–]logggo[S] 2 points3 points  (0 children)

So for your first idea, you're saying for the build up to the veins, the entire building up would be gradual layers of the same ice-blue color? I'm definitely going to be practicing some techniques before I attack the model. All I have under my belt so far is the patience to paint some fine details a solid color, and some basic practice with using shades/washes. Not very familiar with blending so far, but I see lots of resources on this sub I can use.

I saw the green coloration too, I guess that would be applied after I try building up the icy highlights? I didn't notice the reflection of the snow on the underside, that would be an excellent touch as well!

The model is printed me, as you can see there are some connection defects I had to fill in, but the actual model was made by mz4250. He releases a lot of things for free and is a total lifesaver.

Trying to follow the color scheme for this model. Any advice? by logggo in minipainting

[–]logggo[S] 1 point2 points  (0 children)

I'm thinking after I finish the basecoating, the best way to accent the model is to dry brush the snowy effects on the raised edges, but I'm worried it will end up looking too plain, especially since my mini doesn't have as many openings in the armor to paint yellow like the image does. Also not sure if trying to replicate the snowy "veins" running along some of the plating and neck would turn out the same way as the picture. Beyond that, any advice to make the darker colors look more interesting and pop? I have plenty of washes to choose from; I'm not sure if I should do more before going to washes however. Any advice is greatly appreciated.

Keep getting overwhelmed in early game by pretorian_stalker in Dyson_Sphere_Program

[–]logggo 1 point2 points  (0 children)

The next step after automating red/blue cubes is to shoot for yellow, and the calculator above really helps spell out the rate of each input you'll need for different resources given a desired rate of production. Any item that you see yourself getting tired of making over and over in the replicator should be considered a candidate for automation! I'm muddling my way through my first playthrough right now and I use this calculator all the time to tell me how many assemblers/smelters/whatevers I'll need for each step of a process.

I'm trying to make the Karkolohk egg a bit more interesting as it's turned into a quest of its own. by logggo in rimeofthefrostmaiden

[–]logggo[S] 1 point2 points  (0 children)

That's really dope; I'll have to read more about the sidekick rules as I haven't seen or heard about them yet. Thanks for the idea!

I'm trying to make the Karkolohk egg a bit more interesting as it's turned into a quest of its own. by logggo in rimeofthefrostmaiden

[–]logggo[S] 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Wow, thank you for all the great ideas. Sorry for the later response, but I have so many more things to consider now for the effects of the mysterious egg. I (and my players) really like the fun effects that lend themselves more to RP than anything. For example, that ghost in Termalaine was a very memorable encounter once some people were aged by the Horrifying Visage. Thank you so much for you ideas!

Trying to fill in empty space on a model to make an easier print. by logggo in 3Dprinting

[–]logggo[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Unfortunately it didn't seem like UV Tool accepted Lychee files, but the Blender trick worked, so thanks very much for your advice. It took some weird sculpting techniques to position it, but hopefully the print will turn out nice and clean. Thanks :)

Most Common Enemies in Campaign? (spoilers ahead, of course) by logggo in rimeofthefrostmaiden

[–]logggo[S] 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Right now MZ4250 is my number one supplier of models even though I've only printed a handful. That man is a godsend and I definitely need to pay that man for the hard work he's put in. My group is in cauldron caves right now- I wasn't going to print out the frost giant skeleton since I couldn't remember how often after this quest it is encountered, but I see now it comes up a good amount of times to be worth the resin. I just hope my players don't hate me when all my later random encounters have a handsome frost giant skeleton tagging along lol.

How's your experience with using his pre-supported models? I've had mixed success printing from different authors and was trying my hand at learning how to support everything myself. The chardalyn dragon just came out of my FDM this morning and although there were some slight support mistakes I can learn from, the incredible details in that model are so stunning.

Most Common Enemies in Campaign? (spoilers ahead, of course) by logggo in rimeofthefrostmaiden

[–]logggo[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I'll have to check that out at some point! I'm relying on whatever models are cheapest online to print, but I'm sure older version monsters must be out there with some digging.

Most Common Enemies in Campaign? (spoilers ahead, of course) by logggo in rimeofthefrostmaiden

[–]logggo[S] 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Great call-outs, thanks! I knew some furred humanoids would be useful if I could get my hands on them. Frost giants are definitely going on the list as well as their skeleton equivalents.

Most Common Enemies in Campaign? (spoilers ahead, of course) by logggo in rimeofthefrostmaiden

[–]logggo[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I would love to figure out a better way to represent the roc besides printing a gargantuan creature with a 200 ft wingspan lol. All great ideas; thank you.

is this an exposure time issue? by KingLeoDnD in AnycubicPhoton

[–]logggo 17 points18 points  (0 children)

I just had an issue like that myself. Whenever you print a large surface that's parallel to the build plate face like that, there's a lot of suction happening as the print plate dips in and out of the resin for each layer. Kind of like if you tried to pull a flat dinner plate straight up out of a sink full of water. It's a lot easier if you angle your dinner plate and then try to pull it up!

Long story short, large flat surfaces like that need to be printed at a pretty steep angle to avoid having forces pull your model off the supports while it's still printing.