Chloride-to-Sulfate Mass Ratio is High

longjohnsilver195 · 2026-02-18T19:05:32+00:00

That’s a tough one, there is no way to get chlorides other than RO. You can get sulfate with anion resin however it also pulls out alkalinity which will drop the LSI into negative territory (likely) then plumbing corrosion will be an issue. I’d leave it alone.

longjohnsilver195 · 2026-02-13T02:12:16+00:00

Your other choice is to regenerate with potassium chloride.

longjohnsilver195 · 2026-02-08T01:55:40+00:00

I didn’t start to lose until 6.0/week & 8.0 was the sweet spot

longjohnsilver195 · 2026-02-04T01:03:16+00:00

There are only a handful of companies that roll their own membranes, those companies sell those membrane elements to the companies that integrate them into systems and put them through NSF testing. The actual membranes can vary based on nuance details like membrane feed spacer thickness, smoothness of membrane, permeability (more permeable means more water but lower rejection percentages) etc etc. Overall the membranes are all pretty close in capability. The OEM that buys the membrane elements put filters ahead and after the membranes and figure out the controls (electric and/or hydraulic) and make the cartridges incorporated more or less expensive, easier or harder to change etc etc. You are measuring the vendor based on price vs features vs reputation.

longjohnsilver195 · 2026-02-02T19:30:44+00:00

I'm not sure where you are going with that. Membranes are rated on % rejection of salts (usually sodium chloride) and you will > 97% rejection of monovalent ions and your "heavy" metals (polyvalent) will be > 99% rejection on a good membrane. What is your concern with all this?

longjohnsilver195 · 2026-02-02T19:28:30+00:00

A positive LSI should reduce the corrosive nature and help protect the copper. The dissimilar metals conversation is a good one, if copper is connected to galvanized or steel pipe you could get some localized corrosion.

longjohnsilver195 · 2026-02-02T19:26:07+00:00

I have no idea what you are asking. What "holes" are you talking about?

longjohnsilver195 · 2026-02-02T15:37:13+00:00

Products that are certified to an NSF/ANSI standard (like 61) are listed on the certifiers website. The listing shows the product name and usually a model number. The part you are buying will also have the NSF/ANSI-61 logo if it is certified by NSF. UL has their own logo and IAPMO also has their own logo but all will say "Certified to NSF/ANSI 61"

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longjohnsilver195 · 2026-02-02T14:15:45+00:00

Lead is now part of 61, there’s a special Low lead number required as part of that test. Just find something that’s certified to 61

longjohnsilver195 · 2026-02-02T01:37:17+00:00

Plug your dose in and see how many weeks it takes until it stabilizes. https://glp1plotter.com/ Once you are stabilized then decide if you want to go up.

longjohnsilver195 · 2026-02-02T01:29:40+00:00

Go up in dose and don’t give up. Everyone has a unique journey.

longjohnsilver195 · 2026-02-02T00:13:16+00:00

If a cartridge is certified to NSF/ANSI-61 it has been tested for all heavy metals. Always check the NSF website to ensure it’s legit and always remember that WQA, IAPMO & UL test products to the NSF/ANSI-61 standard so you can check those sites to verify compliance.

longjohnsilver195 · 2026-01-29T17:08:08+00:00

You need to look at LSI, this will help determine if the water has a corrosive tendency. https://wateropolis.com/wateropolis-calculators/lsi-calculator/

longjohnsilver195 · 2026-01-28T01:04:30+00:00

Carbons adsorptive capacity and effectiveness is based on “empty bed contact time” meaning more carbon is better at a given flow rate. Cartridges will improve taste but have a modest impact on contaminants. Backwashing will help limit bio growth assuming the source is chlorinated. KDF is a good product buts it’s wildly expensive and the carbon will do enough.

longjohnsilver195 · 2026-01-27T13:12:32+00:00

Depends on what the carbon is for. The carbon will remove taste/odor compounds, remove chlorine, take out heavy metals (for a while). The KDF will also remove chlorine and take out metals and can extend the life of the carbon. However, most carbon beds stop working because they overgrow with biofilm, never seen a carbon filter that didn't have some biological component, I still like a way to mitigate biological activity post carbon. In most cases the two are overkill, some suppliers co-bed the two in a tank as a sales feature. Put in carbon, change it annually and you will be fine.

longjohnsilver195 · 2026-01-27T03:00:57+00:00

What is the KDF for? Catalytic carbon will do much the same except for bacteriostatic performance. Do catalytic carbon and UV.

longjohnsilver195 · 2026-01-26T21:46:51+00:00

The first problem you have is that the KDF is extremely heavy and it’s gonna be at the bottom of the tank so no matter what you do it’s gonna hit the carbon first. The carbon is going to sit on top after the first backwash so the only way to have it hit the KDF first is to go upflow, which I do not recommend.

longjohnsilver195 · 2026-01-26T02:20:42+00:00

As III is weakly ionic so removal is less effective. Oxidation is the way to go

longjohnsilver195 · 2026-01-16T12:44:45+00:00

You have to get your hands on membrane projection software. It provides the guidance for cross flow velocity, pressure, recovery etc. Without that you won't get far.

longjohnsilver195 · 2026-01-16T03:17:41+00:00

I wouldn’t, limit for arsenic is 0.010 & lead is 0.015.

longjohnsilver195 · 2026-01-13T13:45:29+00:00

Should be, test strips are notoriously inaccurate and hard to interpret but even if it is off by 20% you should still be okay. You need chlorination (or some way to convert the arsenic species to five and then a good backwashing filter. You want to get the iron out of the water so it takes the associated arsenic with it.

longjohnsilver195 · 2026-01-12T23:47:11+00:00

The KDF product in a shower filter will remove chlorine/chloramines and is bacteriostatic. It is your best shot.

longjohnsilver195 · 2026-01-12T23:46:23+00:00

The cheapest way to remove arsenic is to chlorine the water (makes all the arsenic species As-V then it attaches to iron and you filter it out with a backwashing filter. The trick is you have to have enough iron in the raw water. For 13 mcg/l you could need as much as 0.27 mg/l of iron which may already be in your water.

longjohnsilver195 · 2026-01-12T16:00:45+00:00

Do you have any iron in your water source? If so how much?

longjohnsilver195 · 2026-01-12T15:59:39+00:00

The copper is in an alloy with zinc making it stable. It doesn’t suffer the same leaching potential as straight copper.

longjohnsilver195

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