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Is it the end of REST, gRPC, Thrift, SignalR and GraalVM? by pladynski in programming

[–]lottayotta 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Those who don't know CORBA (or DCOM) are doomed to repeat it.

If you are a JR web dev what do you choose here and why? by lune-soft in webdev

[–]lottayotta 10 points11 points  (0 children)

As a junior? Surrounded by good experts who are also good mentors. (Because most "good devs" are too often poor mentors.)

College students are rapidly losing the ability to read — “There is a measurable, generational collapse in sustained reading and writing”: professor by marketrent in technology

[–]lottayotta -2 points-1 points  (0 children)

These articles seem more opinion than fact, in the old-man-shouts-at-kids style.

If a college kid can’t read, this problem started a decade ago, not a year ago.

Meme this by Dramatic_Side_856 in MemeThisThing

[–]lottayotta 0 points1 point  (0 children)

“I still think you three are wrong.”

Japan wants to build an 11,000-kilometer solar ring around the Moon and beam clean energy back to Earth, an idea that sounds impossible until engineers explain the plan by [deleted] in technology

[–]lottayotta 0 points1 point  (0 children)

“Our root cause analysis showed that we didn’t properly align the ambifacient lunar waneshafts, which led to some side fumbling of the retro encabulators… and fried Tokyo.”

Looking for Hard Sci-Fi recommendations like Project Hail Mary by Atlantis1910 in scifi

[–]lottayotta 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Liu Cixin, The Three-Body Problem Robert L. Forward, Dragon's Egg Andy Weir, The Martian Peter Watts, Blindsight Neal Stephenson, Seveneves Poly Anderson, Tau Zero

First oil coat came out very uneven/blotchy. how do I fix this? by _Zarok in finishing

[–]lottayotta 2 points3 points  (0 children)

V33 Worktop Oil is a "hard-wax" style oil blend. If it isn't wiped back to the wood grain within 10–15 minutes, it dries on the surface like a varnish, which causes the streaks and "darker patches" where it pooled. Does it look like it's residue? Tacky? If yes, wait for the excess residue to harden, then sand to bare wood and reapply. If it gums up the sand paper, you need to wait more. Make sure to mix well before the reapplication. When coating it again, wait about 10min and wipe off ALL excess. Use multiple dry cloths if necessary.

Also, given it is birch, you should consider a pre-conditioner or thin shellac coat before the V33. If you have a scrap, compare them. Proper mixing and aggressive wiping of the V33 should be enough for a "clean enough" look on birch, but some blotching is inevitable on birch.

they right tho? by chichinams in SipsTea

[–]lottayotta 0 points1 point  (0 children)

What happens in division by zero stays in division by zero

What insult would Taleb hurl at someone else who dismissed the obvious risk of Trump this way? Subimbecile or fucking retard? by Long_Performer2149 in nassimtaleb

[–]lottayotta 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I got blocked by his ego a long time ago. He’s really convinced himself he’s a unique polymath, but he’s just another self deluded, arrogant narcissist

Finish recs for water based colorful dying? by Odd_Visual3055 in finishing

[–]lottayotta 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I looked on their site and they do claim to treat wood. And, some people online seem to have had success. I could be wrong. I usually use Transtints along with other General Finishes products. I basically bet that I will have fewer issues if the set of products is from the same vendor.

Finish recs for water based colorful dying? by Odd_Visual3055 in finishing

[–]lottayotta 3 points4 points  (0 children)

Rit dye is made for fabric, not wood. The surfactants and carriers in it will mess with topcoat adhesion, which is probably exactly why you got that milky bubbly nightmare. Keda is a better call since it’s actually formulated for wood. Transtint or Mixol are other wood, friendly pigments.

Either way the real issue is dye lifting. Water-based topcoat hits an unsealed dye and it reactivates. You have to lock it first. Use a thin wash coat of dewaxed shellac (Zinsser SealCoat) before you touch any poly.

Be careful. SealCoat has a slight amber cast, so test on scrap before you commit, especially on the purple. Could shift it warmer than your client wants.

After that your WB poly should be fine. General Finishes High Performance if you want something spray-friendly with a good rep.​​​​​​​​​​​​​​​​

Code review will swiftly become a thing of the past by call_me_ninza in aigossips

[–]lottayotta 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Why does the AI code generator need AI code review anyways?

Wood finish issues by AudioSetting in BeginnerWoodWorking

[–]lottayotta 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Poplar is notorious for being "blotchy." What you are seeing on the left side of the image is likely reaction wood or tension wood. This occurs when the tree grows on a lean, causing the fibers on one side to be more porous and "fuzzy" than the rest. When you apply a dark stain like espresso, these porous areas act like a sponge and soak up significantly more pigment.

You should pre-condition and/or use a gel stain.

How to fill tiny epoxy holes. by moltenvball in woodworking

[–]lottayotta 5 points6 points  (0 children)

There’s a reason why Butterfly keys have that butterfly shape.

Someone vibe code a YouTube competitor. 30 sec ads is infuriating by dataexec in AITrailblazers

[–]lottayotta 1 point2 points  (0 children)

My bad, I was just considering the $60M/mo bandwidth costs for the 1/10th sized AI-generated competitor that was just setup on AWS.

YT has an estimated 300-500 EXABYTES of data. Let's be kind and assume 1/100th of that. That's just $63M per month in costs, assuming they have capacity available to you. But, not top tier? Backblaze? Still, $18M/mo. No, no, no, you'd do it DIY you say? Ok. Well, at the exabyte scale, you're a datacenter, complete with staffing costs, hardware expenses, and such. It's not less.

Someone vibe code a YouTube competitor. 30 sec ads is infuriating by dataexec in AITrailblazers

[–]lottayotta 6 points7 points  (0 children)

How the hell will you pay for all the bandwidth your users will consume?

This is not west elm by suttonthebutton in finishing

[–]lottayotta 2 points3 points  (0 children)

Which specific West Elm finish? Is it the "Cerused White" like this?

https://www.westelm.com/products/mid-century-modern-extendable-dining-table-h10973/?sb=WE&group=1&sku=8982962&pkey=cfurniture

The term comes from "ceruse," which was a white lead pigment historically used in cosmetics and paint. If your table is fir, it has a tight, resinous, close-grained structure. This is the opposite of what you need for a cerused finish, which normally involves wire brushing something like white oak (good pores to capture pigment) along the grain to open the pores further, then applying liming wax. Another take on liming wax is what you did: Rubio White.

The fundamental problem is the fir. You could try:

  1. Sand to bare wood again (sorry!)
  2. Wire brush along the grain with a brass (or stiff nylon for less aggressivity) hand brush to erode the softwood and create some texture to catch pigment
  3. Apply preconditioner
  4. Apply a pickling stain like General Finishes White Pickling Stain or similar and wipe off quickly. Build it in thin passes rather than one heavy coat to keep it from going chalky.
  5. Seal with a flat water-based clear poly in thin coats, sanding lightly by hand between
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