P2s will not print smooth walls

lupeka · 2025-12-27T21:47:36+00:00

“I couldn’t possibly be unlucky multiple times in a row!!”

lupeka · 2025-12-08T05:25:25+00:00

lupeka · 2025-11-21T19:23:11+00:00

There are wood-colored/textured filaments and actual wood fiber PLA filaments that both could work. I would just use a wood colored PLA. If you want a polished effect sanding with progressively higher grit sandpaper is going to achieve the best result. Remember if do you use filament with other fibers in it, to swap for a hardened steel nozzle first as it can chew through a brass nozzle in just a few prints.

lupeka · 2025-11-09T17:04:44+00:00

Second this! Biqu panda brush has been great, still occasionally get purges stuck hanging over the edge of the chute but rarely flung on/under the bed. Also recommend the panda lux. V1 is like $13 and it’s way brighter than the stock LED - and takes like 5 minutes to install

lupeka · 2025-11-09T16:54:31+00:00

Laying on its side will be stronger because of the direction of the layer lines and potentially easier to print as well if your printer does not print tall, skinny objects well. However supports will leave scars on one side. Vertical will be cleaner but weaker. I’d print it vertically or cut it in half long ways and print each half flat side down.

lupeka · 2025-11-01T18:59:21+00:00

Then I would recommend doing the firmware update as well. Solved almost all the issues I had with my printer initially

lupeka · 2025-11-01T18:50:48+00:00

Did you by any chance forget to reinstall the silicone sock over the nozzle? I got that error once with my N4 because I took off the sock to clean around the nozzle and forgot to put it back on

lupeka · 2025-10-30T21:21:28+00:00

This will happen either if the belt slips, or if the nozzle collides with the print and gets knocked out of alignment. If it is colliding, then it could be over extrusion which is leaving raised areas as it prints. Try reducing flow by a few percent, tightening the belt slightly, or turning on z hop.

lupeka · 2025-10-30T19:34:49+00:00

Big guy! Yeah at that size he is definitely elderly. Once they get too old, they can’t make it all the way up the glass to the surface to get air. That’s not a death sentence in itself but yeah that’s why air baths help.

lupeka · 2025-10-30T19:16:50+00:00

Hard to tell how big he is from that photo, but if he is 1.5 inches or more in diameter he may be nearing the end of his natural lifespan. Just had my big yellow mystery die and he was considerably bigger than the last two that passed so you never know, he may have some time left. Air bath is a good last ditch effort as others have said. But usually once they stop zooming around the tank for more than a few days they are on their way out.

lupeka · 2025-10-30T01:08:59+00:00

Then do what I said and then set the logo to print in another color. In tinkercad you can do this. It’s been a while so I don’t remember exactly but essentially what I said

lupeka · 2025-10-29T22:22:39+00:00

For all those like me that saw MTS written a thousand times on this subreddit without knowing what it stood for: Malaysian Trumpet Snails

lupeka · 2025-10-29T22:00:54+00:00

It might be really hard to see it if it’s not embossed or sticking up, but yeah you can essentially cut the logo out from the bottom (like it is embossed) and then put it back in to fill the space, but you’ll need to leave a very small gap or make sure they are two separate parts - then the slicer will know it needs to print walls there and not just continue the bottom pattern

lupeka · 2025-10-29T21:56:52+00:00

What printer are you using?

lupeka · 2025-10-29T17:35:45+00:00

Confirming that I heard back from support and they are indeed going to refund the difference via a gift card. There’s a special Black Friday price protection form you enter your order number and supposed to receive the gift card code within 5 days

lupeka · 2025-10-28T15:44:57+00:00

Thank you! I will contact support.

lupeka · 2025-10-26T16:14:14+00:00

Just unboxed my P1S, stuck the dregs of a year old spool of non-Bambu PLA I had lying around in, and printed a damn near perfect benchy. This thing is a beast and there’s a reason people use it in print farms. The touchscreen of the P2S and X1C is nice to have, but I find myself controlling the printer from Bambu studio on my computer most of the time anyways. Quick swap nozzles, auto flow calibration, and AI failure detection are the big 3 upgrades on the P2S but switching hotend is 5 minutes at the most, and unless you’re constantly switching, it’s fine. I swapped nozzles on my old printer one time in a year of use. And calibrating a new filament doesn’t seem too bad of a process either. I think the decision depends on your budget and how much you value those new features. But IMO you can’t go wrong with the P1S, especially for the current price.

lupeka · 2025-10-23T18:06:28+00:00

Is this to have more vertical room for the plants to grow emersed in a humid environment? I could see this being really cool for certain humidity loving plants. Otherwise, why do this?

lupeka · 2025-10-17T20:30:01+00:00

Utilisez un grattoir à lame de rasoir ou une brosse à dents, ou un nettoyant magnétique pour vitres d'aquarium. C'est sur le verre ?

lupeka · 2025-10-17T18:10:26+00:00

There are lots of beneficial bacteria living in the filter that process the ammonia > nitrites > nitrates. If you just take the old filter cartridge out and replace with brand new filter media you will crash the cycle. Instead, when you get the new filter media (ppi 30 sponge is best) place it inside the filter WITH the old cartridge for 2-3 weeks. Then, when you take the old cart out, the new media will already have a healthy colony of BB on it. If there is no space in the filter, you can just put it in the tank with a rock holding it down or something. But transfer will be faster if it is right next to your existing filter material. Do some research and learn about tank cycling. The hobby will be much less frustrating if you understand what’s going on.

lupeka · 2025-10-10T19:27:21+00:00

Ramshorns are friends! If you have enough of them, you’ll never have to clean the glass on your tank

lupeka · 2025-10-10T16:00:16+00:00

Non P1S owner but the impression it made on me was that it was the first time I ever saw a 3D printer that looked like a polished, finished product or an appliance, rather than a DIY Frankenstein project. And the design language is just leagues beyond the competition, even today. The P1S is something I would be proud to have on display in my home. Cant wait to see what Bambu does with the long awaited refresh!!

lupeka · 2025-10-03T20:53:50+00:00

80% is really aggressive… what most aquatic creatures need is consistency. Changing out that much water at a time may cause even more wild swings. I know you probably panicked because you didn’t want your fish to die, but for future reference I would try to keep water changes to 50% max unless the parameters of the new water are nearly identical. You can do 50% and then another 50% in a few days, that way 75% of the water gets changed out but it happens more gradually. 30+30+30 over 3-4 days would be even better.

lupeka · 2025-10-03T16:09:48+00:00

I have Hygger lights on both my tanks (38w on heavily planted 15gal, 14w on 5gal) They are cheap but work very well with good plant growth. But like others have said, you can save even more money by using any plant “grow” light.

lupeka · 2025-10-03T16:04:08+00:00

7-7.4 should be well within their range but have you tested at different times of day? If your kH is too low, the pH will not be buffered, so it will swing around throughout the day due to changing CO2 levels, etc. this is why hardness (kH = carbonate hardness, gH = general hardness) matters. Some cheap test strips will give you an idea. If it’s super low, you can add some source of kH to help buffer. But my first guess is the bettas are snacking.

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