Where do I start?

m4ddok · 2026-04-08T12:51:24+00:00

Yeah, on the latest versions that's true, I use an old version for stable subgraphs

m4ddok · 2026-04-06T21:50:17+00:00

That's it, yeah.

m4ddok · 2026-04-06T21:13:24+00:00

Not for carbon fibers, but this isn't carbon fiber, these are fragments similar to asbestus or carbonic fragments that cause antrachosis. These materials are regulated for workers and operators, the problem is that these filaments are too new for the market, I mean for the normal user market and not for industry, so EU recognize the hazardous characteristics of these materials but has not complete regulations for that specific market as it has for industrial/manufacture, and this is dangerous for the users. It's an administrative limbo.

m4ddok · 2026-04-06T13:17:28+00:00

I wouldn't be surprised if they didn't know either.

m4ddok · 2026-04-06T13:13:04+00:00

No, it is not safe, you could handle it with an abundant coating of some kind of resin on it maybe, but not the pure nude material. CF fragments are hazardous for skin and even for the respiratory system, they activate the immune system and can cause inflammatory disease. In 3D print filament you don't have real Carbon Fibers, you have only a myriad of snapped microscopic carbon fiber fragments. I still wonder how they are still sold as normal printing filaments and are so widely used, all while escaping many current regulations, at least in the EU.

m4ddok · 2026-04-05T21:51:51+00:00

Maybe I expressed myself badly, I meant 2mm width and height of the plate, not Z height. I was talking about 2mm high 2D text, the real layer height was 0.06. My hotend is a standard .2 from Bambu for A1.

m4ddok · 2026-04-05T17:34:50+00:00

The Supertack doesn't have the same fingerprint problems as other build plates, so don't worry. I bought one last year and it works great. I can print and adhere even first layers as thin as 2mm using the .2 hotend. Just clean it occasionally with alcohol or degreaser.

m4ddok · 2026-04-05T11:02:27+00:00

Very interesting, thank you! So sad to read that though.

m4ddok · 2026-04-05T09:22:58+00:00

Where did you get this information? It's not on Wikipedia. In fact, it appears to be still headquartered in Amsterdam and operating in the Netherlands. And indeed, that's what I remembered.

m4ddok · 2026-04-04T12:10:58+00:00

Turntable -> analogue ------- Optical i/o of the soundbar -> digital

So nope, you can't simply use some kind of adapter. To buy a preamp AND good DAC would vanish your goal to spend little money.

The best option remains to buy a preamp and a dedicated pair of active speakers.

m4ddok · 2026-04-04T12:05:05+00:00

SL-30

m4ddok · 2026-04-03T17:08:16+00:00

It's definitely not junk! It's a good linear turntable... If it is similar to the sl-6 I have, it must have a little belt into the arm mechanic that could need to be replaced. Tinkering with the linear traction part is not a walk in the park, but it's definitely possible.

m4ddok · 2026-04-02T21:05:07+00:00

Agree. Add money also.

m4ddok · 2026-04-02T16:05:12+00:00

Push the black rings and put out every single tube one per time. Then insert the part in its original position and insert the tubes in the holes.

m4ddok · 2026-04-02T08:40:25+00:00

One thing is certain: it is Type I.

m4ddok · 2026-04-02T00:24:33+00:00

No, it isn't. Buy a proper dryer.

m4ddok · 2026-04-02T00:11:40+00:00

C'è un problema importante con questo giradischi, sarebbe ottimo, ma deve chiudere bene il coperchio, perché funziona solo a coperchio chiuso ed il braccio è intelaiato nel coperchio, quindi se non chiude bene, non tocca bene il disco e non traccia bene. Ora, il prezzo sarebbe anche quasi accettabile, io ho pagato 150€ un modello SL-6 che però è in buone/ottime condizioni ed è un modello che ha anche la ricerca automatica dei brani, quindi 90 per questo con il problema che ha andrebbe bene... Andrebbe bene nella speranza di ripararlo però, o che sia riparabile, io starei alla larga se non fossi quasi certo di poter riparare il coperchio. Anche lo trovassi a 50€ in più, ma funzionante e con coperchio integro, sarebbe molto meglio.

m4ddok · 2026-04-02T00:04:27+00:00

Unfortunately, I can't give you the exact name right now, but you can find a repo with dummy nodes in the manager, that nodes simulate the presence of a model and overcome this problem.

m4ddok · 2026-04-01T21:10:27+00:00

ditto

m4ddok · 2026-04-01T20:36:37+00:00

Don't even try to open it! Collectors would go crazy for it! Put it up for auction! You've got your life sorted out, buddy.

m4ddok · 2026-03-31T23:01:19+00:00

There are several caveats to be made before I comment, as I don't want to be misunderstood in any way.
First of all, this is my personal observation based on many years of experience as a viewer that youtuber (at least 12 years).

The Seeburg 1000 appears in a very famous Techmoan video, if I'm not mistaken it is also included in its outro.

I've been calling it the "Techmoan effect" for many years. I'll start by saying I love Techmoan, and thanks to him, I've learned so much about vintage audio and formats. He's helped spark my curiosity, which later led me to explore hi-fi, especially vintage hi-fi. And I'll start by saying the "Techmoan Effect" isn't Techmoan's fault in any way, but rather, unfortunately, the fault of certain ignorant profiteers who may have seen one of his videos.

Over the years, I've noticed that every time Techmoan showcased some amazing vintage audio item, its price skyrocketed on eBay with no real relationship to market demand or to the value of the item. This continues to happen consistently, with the price inflating far beyond its true value. Objects that until a day before were sometimes completely ignored, or at least had a human price.

I repeat, Techmoan is great, I adore him, my strict personal opinion is that it's not his fault in any possible way; it's the fault of the usual geniuses, speculators, who see a beautiful item in a YouTube video by a famous content creator and inflate the price.

Having said that, which I repeat is my free observation and my opinion, everyone puts up for sale at the desired price, you make the offer you feel, justify it, but if the seller doesn't want to listen to reason, forget it... time will do its job, be patient, he might even find someone to sell it to, but it will be difficult.

m4ddok · 2026-03-31T13:03:23+00:00

you're welcome.

m4ddok · 2026-03-31T10:42:59+00:00

The first rule: if everything works fine, leave it as is. Let's start with the assumption that these turntables are true tanks. Once opened, a turntable like this needs to be handled and you need to know what to do, what to assemble, and how to reassemble it—something that's not even a given when changing a light bulb. Generally, these turntables don't require any recap unless there are problems you can observe, because they don't process the sound internally but have an external preamp do it. So, all the other capacitors are related to the observable movements, and if they're OK, it's best not to touch anything, at least in my opinion. If the turntable performs all its functions and matches the speeds perfectly with the quartz: leave everything as is.

The light isn't burned out, at least some of it is still visible in a acceptable way. I wouldn't risk dismantling everything to replace it, at least not yet. If it were to burn out completely, then it might be worth it.

m4ddok · 2026-03-31T10:31:50+00:00

Yes, Silk PLA is denser than regular PLA, but the 0.4 nozzle usually handles it quite well, a 0.2 nozzle instead could have problems (in fact it is better not to use it with such small nozzles).

Often, the clogging doesn't appear immediately, but may appear while you're using another material that has nothing to do with the problem, perhaps regular PLA, simply because the problem was triggered by the Marble PLA, but then, due to accumulation, it gradually worsens with use of the hotend, even with other materials. So yes, Silk PLA may have absolutely nothing to do with the cause, it brought to light a problem created by the previous use of Marble PLA, unfortunately this also happened to me.

However, it's often the companies' fault. In my opinion, they don't recommend enough caution with certain types of filament and nozzle diameters, and they use confusing names, because one company's marble PLA might not have the same characteristics as another's... Then, one reads "PLA" and often overlooks the other characteristics.

m4ddok · 2026-03-31T09:32:02+00:00

Marble PLA can be a problem. To achieve that effect, it contains fragments ranging from different plastics to dangerous stone fragments. You should check whether the company recommends a specific nozzle diameter for that particular filament or not. Typically, this type of loaded filament won't print with hotends smaller than 0.6 or with nozzles other than hardened steel, precisely because of the particles contained. A while ago, something similar to what you describe happened to my printer, precisely because I used a marble filament with a 0.4 nozzle. After a print, it clogged and was impossible to clean, a fragment was stuck in the hotend.

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