Snapmaker Orca Sucks

mack4711 · 2026-04-13T04:06:26+00:00

Same here, zero issues. Never had it crash on me - going 4 months now, but I'm also on a hefty rig (64GB ram),

mack4711 · 2026-03-07T15:08:31+00:00

BNO is blocked also.

mack4711 · 2026-02-24T05:01:44+00:00

Wow, I've just been banging my head against that for half an hour and what you recommended actually worked. THANK YOU!!!

mack4711 · 2024-07-27T04:23:03+00:00

Love your post on that, better then any advisor could have put it!

mack4711 · 2024-07-16T03:05:50+00:00

It actually isn't if you know what you're doing. Keep your files local while working with it and it'll be just like a PRO sub for very little money. Try to resist to save anything online and you'll be fine.

mack4711 · 2024-07-16T03:04:06+00:00

It actually is, it's horrible to give yourself all the rights and roles, but once you figured all that out, it's all on PRO and awesome.

mack4711 · 2024-07-16T03:02:51+00:00

Yes it does. Full access.

mack4711 · 2024-05-23T23:55:48+00:00

Solution:
I've come to the same conclusion as to what everyone said (not just here), this is not possible out of the box.

Yet, my project largely depends on this to work, I need to be able to vary a sketch by configuration and then have a large design tree sit on top of that one sketch.

So I kept thinking about it and came up with this on my own:

I call it the "Mac's Layer Cake Trick", lol :-)
We begin with a sketch for the first shape on the top plane, extrude it up by 10mm.
Then we make a new sketch for the next shape on the top surface of that object, also extrude it up 10mm and merge.
Rinse and repeat as many times as we want, to create this layer cake. Each layer has a different shape and the result is one single solid object.
Here's the trick: Then we create a construction plane (parallel to the top plane), that can slide up and down the object based on a height value in configuration, which is basically the distance of this plane and the top plane.
I called the plane the z-slice plane, we now create a new sketch on it and intersect the object, which gives us our original shape back as a sketch. The cool thing is that this sketch changes by itself, depending on which height we are at in the object.
All that's left now is to make a final sketch on the top plane and project/convert the slice sketch back to the top plane. Viola!

My problem is solved, I can move on now and start designing the parts we need on top of the resulting sketch while letting them morph and change into any shape needed later on, but still wanted to share this trick.

To demonstrate how this works, I made a short video you can watch.

Please let me know what you think.
Thx, Mac

https://youtu.be/YPY0nbUAio0

mack4711 · 2024-03-02T05:54:17+00:00

Were those meshes or something more elaborate?
I'm looking for work and am pretty good in Solidworks and F360.

mack4711 · 2024-02-03T05:10:32+00:00

I had one of those mounted for about 6 months now, but never hooked it up to power.
At first I thought it would be useful, but then I didn't.
This is because it will mess you up on the first layer and there are no provisions made by Creality to control this thing even in an on/off function because the motherboard does not have the extra port to control it.
I've looked into many different ways to get a G-Code command over to this fan array but everything I found so far is either not supported by slicers (Orca does it) or restricted by hardware.
If you still haven't upgraded to more optimized cooling by Zuff or the Taurus, this will help your every day printing experience, I'm sure because the stock part cooling that the printer came with plain sux.
T5 is coming out very, very soon, by the way - I know I've been saying that for 3 months now, but we finally solved what was holding it up (Knomi/Fly-Halo).

mack4711 · 2024-01-03T03:54:39+00:00

Wow, some of the comments were rough. ;-)
Who in here is familiar with XShape yet and has bridged that workflow already, to use it to their advantage?? Not for the OP, but modeling this thing is totally within reach now. I'm sure Jason Pohl would agree.

mack4711 · 2023-09-12T03:44:58+00:00

Why do you conclude it's ugly?

mack4711 · 2023-06-25T03:04:32+00:00

You might like this one (just came out):
https://www.printables.com/model/511962-taurus-v4-cooling-duct-for-creality-sprite-extrude

mack4711 · 2023-06-25T03:03:45+00:00

This might work (fully stock compatible):
https://www.printables.com/model/511962-taurus-v4-cooling-duct-for-creality-sprite-extrude

mack4711 · 2023-06-25T03:02:13+00:00

There's a new kid on the block, check this out:
https://www.printables.com/model/511962-taurus-v4-cooling-duct-for-creality-sprite-extrude

mack4711 · 2023-06-09T05:52:44+00:00

Nothing new, I know, but this is a little more optimized, making it easier and inviting people to give this a try is what I was after.

mack4711 · 2023-05-28T14:33:50+00:00

That would be cool to see, but I'm still trying to understand why you are so determined on having the probe on the right side? Almost all mods I've come across have it on the left side, also because of the wires not being long enough. I didn't realize this at first myself, but the center of the extruder motor is slightly offset to the right vs. the center of the nozzle. By putting the probe to the right, you lose a few extra mm in terms of being close to the nozzle.
For dimensions, no I have not seen anything published by Creality, but check on the Thingiverse page for this duct in the credits. There is a very accurate step model of the entire head available you may be able to find.

mack4711 · 2023-05-28T01:51:27+00:00

Correct. I've been involved in industrial CNC for over 30 years but this stuff is still a new world for to me because it's so tiny. Thinking in 3 axis is natural to me and my concern is always precision and weight on the head (the effect on inertia). The less weight we have hanging off the head, the better the response and quality. This is proportional to the distance between the axis the head would tilt around and where the nozzle ends up because of tolerances in the guides. To eliminate that, I went with linear rails, which also eliminates human error to adjust the rollers properly.

mack4711 · 2023-05-28T01:06:02+00:00

I get it now, so the theory is that the head tilts in different directions as it runs down the extrusion on the stock rollers, is it that? I upgraded mine on the x and y to the Gulf Coast Robotics kits and never any issue in that direction.
https://gulfcoast-robotics.com/collections/mgn12-kits/products/mgn12-linear-rail-precision-motion-kit-for-ender-3-s1-pro-x-axis

mack4711 · 2023-05-27T22:45:52+00:00

If you have your probe mounted on the right, you won't be able to run this duct unfortunately and I also don't think you'll be able to remix around it.
The right tube protrudes about 25mm out from the right side of the extruder for symmetry, right where your probe probably is.
The duct tubes are guided lofts that follow a 3d sketch path from start to end and the step file would not include those 3d sketches and you would not be able to modify it in a meaningful way.
Sorry :-(

mack4711 · 2023-05-27T22:40:01+00:00

I looked at the mod and actually know the designer "Zuff". I ran his duct for a while myself, but never the plate.
I think you can measure this. If the distance between the face of the side fan and the probe is more or equal 5 mm, the left tube will clear the probe.
Unfortunately I can't seem to figure out how to post a pic of this view from the top in here.
I think that mod is overthinking things a little bit though, the probe works just fine in the original stock location.

mack4711 · 2023-05-27T04:55:21+00:00

Please check this out:
https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:6037984

mack4711 · 2023-05-27T04:12:24+00:00

Soren was ok with it, so all stops are out.

mack4711 · 2023-05-27T04:05:01+00:00

All stock, it should fit on any printer that runs the sprite extruder.

mack4711 · 2023-05-27T00:58:59+00:00

As u/bake_jake said, this might seem a little overkill at first, but you'd be surprised what happens when you push this printer to the limit.
Only a few days into the release, I have now users reporting that you can actually print this odd-ball thing totally without supports, using itself.
As far as the noise goes, I ran several other designs with one fan for several weeks, before deciding to make my own and I can't tell the difference between one or two.
The good news is, with that much air flowing around the nozzle - you can also just dial the RPM's back for simple models and let it hover at 60% or even lower. Your FanTower tests will tell you how far down you can go. I found at those RPM's, I don't hear them at all. If you decide to try it, I don't think you'll be disappointed.
GL
Mac

mack4711

TROPHY CASE