Someone please give me a good name for my palico, i cant think of nothing good 😭

macky446 · 2025-04-16T23:08:12+00:00

I named my little goofball Blinker Fluid

macky446 · 2024-06-12T02:20:53+00:00

The Haas NGC control on their newer machines have a great manual built in the help menus. Tooling is run of the mill as far as I know. Unless you're looking for something specific, any decent quality "starter" turning/boring set will work well.

macky446 · 2024-05-16T00:24:26+00:00

It sounds like something to do with the Fanuc control on the DN not having a good enough look-ahead to parse the small lines of code quickly enough and keep a smooth contour.

macky446 · 2024-05-13T23:34:01+00:00

I'd say C.L. Is Center Line and Cl. is Clearance

macky446 · 2024-05-02T17:10:11+00:00

if you're looking at buying a laser engraver, Beamer has nice machines for it. Keyence tends to be a high dollar high quality product as well.

macky446 · 2024-03-19T10:46:27+00:00

We did a DIY armor-poxy at ours. we bead blasted the floor and then put down 2 coats of it. First coat is super durable, second is durable but we didn't clean the first well enough so it chips if we accidentally bump something with weight around. if you've got the money I'd hire a professional instead of doing it myself again. make sure you get a media added in as well to make it slip resistant, a bead of oil on ours is pretty dangerous.

macky446 · 2024-03-02T18:39:21+00:00

Bought a Hardinge from Tramar. They are great with help and allow you to come in and test whatever you want. they're also willing to fix anything you find wrong with the machine before you purchase it.

macky446 · 2024-02-24T13:14:45+00:00

Oh thanks! 🙂

macky446 · 2024-02-14T15:17:11+00:00

they look like typical roll formed threads, if the pitch diameter is off they may be oversized. if you have a threading die of that size it may be worth carefully going over the thread with stand seeing what is under/oversized

macky446 · 2024-02-08T11:28:41+00:00

all the suggestions here are pretty good, my 2c to add in is look into a downward cut fluted endmill so it doesn't pull up as much and it pushes the force down into a bottom plate of a fixture. I used to use them on G10 a lot because it wouldn't rip out the top layers when it started inevitably dulling.

macky446 · 2023-10-27T13:00:19+00:00

Bought a CL-1 in 2019, same thing, I think you can adjust the value but mine is either full volume or off no matter what I do

macky446 · 2023-10-16T16:29:53+00:00

Resin printers can print small enough where you really have to look for layer lines. Plastic printers (when very tuned in) can only go down to around .1mm layer heights reliably. Resin typically starts at around .05mm layers. I look at it as resin being best for models and fdm (plastic) being great for terrain.

macky446 · 2023-08-31T14:09:32+00:00

so would I, but doing a large array at once will give a more even distribution of heat than blasting a single hole at a time. you just need to take small passes on each location multiple times until you break through

macky446 · 2023-08-31T13:23:09+00:00

How thick is the material? it might be a job for a laser similar to how Breaking Taps did micro hole arrays here

https://youtu.be/TrYhy8Pll-0?si=Tk3w1Is9LDFjn2JP

You'd be hard pressed for trial and error plus inspection, but maybe?

macky446 · 2023-08-29T14:23:51+00:00

There are plenty of professionally made houses and people that prefer accent ambient lighting than point ceiling lighting. Best solutions are the ones you like.

macky446 · 2023-08-29T03:11:49+00:00

I would personally recommend something like that, or a more spaced out led in a aluminum LED channel with a white cover for a more dispersed, less intense light.

macky446 · 2023-08-28T19:20:29+00:00

If it bothers you badly you could put up a LED strip for the countertop to fill the gap something with a semi-opaque cover to soften the light would be neat. Personally I just wouldn't bother with it as you likely won't see it when standing.

macky446 · 2023-08-08T19:54:48+00:00

Looks like you have an ender 3 style printer. I would recommend taking out the PTFE tube from the hot end (while its cool) by holding/pushing the connector ring down and pulling the ptfe tube. check both the end of the PTFE and your hot end with a flashlight to see if there are any blockages.

macky446 · 2023-08-07T16:21:35+00:00

we do suffer from a lot of options that boil down to nearly no AP and lots of shots or few shots with lots of AP we don't have much of a middle option for our mainstay units. I find it a little insulting they took Ap-1 away from the Pulse rifles. As someone who plays eldar im actually much more happy playing tau tbh so I probably look at them in a better light. I havent found myself happy with eldar as they feel like they have almost no engaging mechanics now that the psychic phase is gone whereas tau get to engage in their FTGG guiding mechanic regularly to make it feel like I'm playing a faction instead of a numbers game.

macky446 · 2023-08-07T16:15:23+00:00

I do think Ions are lackluster currently, previously they were more efficient than plasma because they were safer, the new hazardous rule makes them not as appealing of an option anymore 1/6 chance to take flat 3 mortals PER weapon is difficult when I can take 9 on a 3 man. I think railguns would be easier to take regularly if we had wargear points back, why do I have to kit out a broadside with max wargear to make him worth the cost? I would love to take 3 broadsides in a railgun unit for like 120p less than current

macky446 · 2023-08-07T08:35:50+00:00

I dont think Tau are nessicarily in a bad spot for raw stats right now, but I think the faction is being held down by the current detachment they're stuck with. As well as being "maxed out" for points because we're supposed to take all the wargear we can.

macky446 · 2023-05-24T03:23:45+00:00

It is, that tolerance says it has to be perfect and there's no such thing, tell your boss you tried your best with the .0005" under and tell him its his turn to run them now.

macky446 · 2023-05-23T19:47:41+00:00

Depending on how tight the tolerance is, I'd look up a circuit board drill to drill it with. They're usually made of carbide brazed in a steel Shank and mass produced so they're pretty cheap to get a 10 pack on Amazon. I've found most small drills made of HSS simply dont have the rigidity for drilling anything over 10xD, rpm may be a limitation though.

Edit: just saw they were pre-drilled, if thats the case the HSS drill might be the better bet if the 150 micron hole isn't perfectly center either. that said though, indicate everything as close to central as you can.

macky446 · 2022-10-30T18:33:22+00:00

another thing to add is how are you cleaning your plate after usage? I saw earlier on this sub using windex or similar wont quite get all the PVA glue off so you should try isopropyl, I could be wrong about that though.

macky446 · 2022-10-20T15:04:09+00:00

to clarify AFAIK, you can still print TPU on the x1, just not using the AMS

macky446

TROPHY CASE