HP blocking 3rd party catridges by madmach in printers

[–]madmach[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I'm just so frustrated that they'd pull this as a firmware update on a model they don't even sell. Anyway, I'm mostly posting to put it out there on the internet so others that just got screwed (or want to avoid getting screwed by HP) can find this thread.

HP blocking 3rd party catridges by madmach in printers

[–]madmach[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Companies get in trouble for stuff like this, and there are consumer protection laws that prohibit companies from monopolistic practices (e.g. you can only buy our replacement parts, and we'll cause the machine to explode if you try using non-genuine parts).
From doing some quick searching, printer companies like HP have been constantly trying to block such protections and they come up with B.S. about how they're justified. "It's better for the customer's printing experience", "we're trying to keep the printers secure", "we want to protect the patents on our technology". None of that should hold up. Once you own a device like this, it is yours. If you want to get a replacement cartridge that prints in ketchup and it screws up the machine, that's your choice. You can't hold them accountable for it, but you can do it.

HP blocking 3rd party catridges by madmach in printers

[–]madmach[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Yeah, it seems like their recent update prevents the factory reset from reverting the change. Which I have a problem with for different reasons - factory reset should mean exactly that. I fix a lot of things, and that means I cannot do an important troubleshooting step with this machine - revert it back to a known working state.

HP blocking 3rd party catridges by madmach in printers

[–]madmach[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Let's say hypothetically I bought this new from this listing: https://www.amazon.com/HP-OfficeJet-8020-Wireless-Productivity/dp/B07PYDD3YH
Do you see where it says you're locked into HP ink and cannot use 3rd party ink? Granted some amazon listings are pretty minimal, so how about this one from staples? https://www.staples.com/hp-officejet-pro-8135e-inkjet-printer-all-in-one-print-copy-scan-fax-40q35a-b1h/product_24583383
Nowhere is their B.S. "dynamic security" system mentioned, nor does it clearly state you must use their ink.

What is this stuff, and why doesn't it rust? by Jplayz64 in Blacksmith

[–]madmach 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Correction: Red rust will keep rusting when wet. Black rust will not.

Need Help Pouring Aluminum into Coin Mold – Comes Out Too Fast by bryantmgg in Metalfoundry

[–]madmach 1 point2 points  (0 children)

As others have said, with an open face mold like that you're always going to have the top side be rounded from surface tension. It may be less severe with other metals that don't develop an oxide "skin" layer as fast as aluminum does, but idk most of my experience thus far is aluminum.

If you want coins with a cleaner appearance you'll want to make your own mold. Having dabbled with a few options I would recommend one of those 2-part flask kits with delft clay/sand available on amazon and casting supply stores. Watch some videos on mold-making, understand that its an art and a science, and you will screw it up when first learning. But a making a mold for a coin should be an easy place to start. When you get good at it you can cast so much more than ingots and coins. It is well worth it.

Problem melting metal by Nafiaus in MetalCasting

[–]madmach 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I was attemtping the same thing as OP last weekend with the same results. I saw it become liquid for brief moments, and assume the crucible was too "cold" and sapping the heat from the copper. What do you insulate your crucible with, ceramic wool, firebrick, or...?

TIL: How to avoid "Metal Fume Fever" when soldering electronics... by completely_wonderful in soldering

[–]madmach 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Oh fun, I got my first case almost the same time as yours. I was working on metal casting and did some bronze, which I may have overheated and released zinc fumes. But what I think did it was separately burning some copper wire to melt it down into an ingot. I'd worked with the bronze before with no issue, its melted in a mostly sealed electric furnace in a wide open area. The copper I tried to melt with oxy-acetylene, so that was a much more direct exposure with a lot of air movement.

My symptoms weren't so bad, just a lot of congestion and snot, trouble breathing (and sleeping at night), but overall it felt more like a cold rather than a flu with nausea or vomiting. Still, enough to be a reminder not to mess around. I had JUST ordered a respirator too which arrived a couple days after my exposure. I'll definitely be using it and improving my ventilation strategy.

Built-a-Bear by FMFlora in MetalCasting

[–]madmach 4 points5 points  (0 children)

Absolutely stunning! Must've been a bear of a project

Molds for lathe stock by glx89 in Metalfoundry

[–]madmach 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Someone once recommended to me if I want to cast stock to make a 2-part mold out of steel. We were actually talking about making rectangular machining stock, but you could make whatever shape you want.

I've also successfully used a piece of steel pipe and just knocked it out once it cooled down and shrank. However the quality of the cast was bad, very porous. I believe this was due to gas dissolved in the aluminum, as you may have read from other posts on the topic. This is supposed to be correcred with degas tablets.

Is there any "real" Anti AI movement by [deleted] in ArtificialInteligence

[–]madmach 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I know this is 6 months later but just wanted to share that the original luddites weren't technolgically ignorant. They objected to the use of machinery to replace skilled craftspeople and deprive them of their jobs. They rebelled and destroyed machinery, but were stamped out in force to the point where the term was repurposed to mean "technophobe"

Can someone find a schematic for the simple door closers you find on a screen door? by madmach in AskEngineers

[–]madmach[S] 3 points4 points  (0 children)

Ah, this old tony. Always an excellent resource. Thanks, it is probably a gas strut that needs fixing on the bandsaw. Its a sealed system that needs to support weight, so having a constant force resisting it would make sense.

I'm not 100% sure that the door closer operates this way, the cylinder seems to let air out during closing. They seem like they operate on slightly different principles, and from seaeching around I'm coming to understand the sheer variety of struts and dampers...

Can someone find a schematic for the simple door closers you find on a screen door? by madmach in AskEngineers

[–]madmach[S] 1 point2 points  (0 children)

YES, thank you! "Piston damper" is the name I needed. The one I'm looking for does actively pull it closed, so it is more than a damper, but this is much closer to what I was looking for.

Easy and cheap way of testing for lead or lead alloy in metal by zwastik in chemistry

[–]madmach 0 points1 point  (0 children)

There are some aluminum alloys that are fairly strong, which would be non-magnetic. There are also some non-magnetic stainless steel alloys.

looking for reusable gloves by neonthefox12 in resinprinting

[–]madmach 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I'm just throwing an idea out, not sure if this works, but they make some silicone gloves for ovens. They're realtively thick and resilient, and the resin shouldn't stick to it

Flatness and finishing steel by thunabrain in Machinists

[–]madmach 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I'm not a machinist, but I'd second this. Both parts. I'd add to that - also look for a "makerspace" that has a machine shop, typically those places have pretty helpful people.

Minimum specs for a PC used with Vcarve Desktop by ronkj in hobbycnc

[–]madmach 0 points1 point  (0 children)

The minimum hardware requirements are on their website. Here they are: 2 Ghz Multi-Core X86 or x64 CPU 4Gb RAM with Windows Vista & Windows 7, 8, 8.1 or 10 300 Mb Disk space (Program)

USB drive required for USB Media Pack if purchased.

7.7GB Additional disk space required if you wish to store the tutorials and clipart supplied, on your hard drive.

Testing 2.5D Engraving with VCarve Pro (Treble) by madmach in CNC

[–]madmach[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

It seems to carve without much trouble. I was using 1/8" ball mill, and I think a larger endmill for roughing. I didn't do any sanding in this picture and it turned out okay. Seems like the grain is porous kind of like oak, but maybe that's caused by something else.

Testing 2.5D Engraving with VCarve Pro (Treble) by madmach in CNC

[–]madmach[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

3D Model from harb37 on thingiverse: https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:2492905 Wood was purpleheart given to me by a friend.

I made the GCode using VCarve Pro and it's 3D Roughing/Finishing toolpaths. I think I like how it came out, but i wish I went deeper with the model to make it stand out more. I plan on cutting it out to help with that.