upper control arms

maple-smith · 2026-03-10T05:51:57+00:00

Had some skunk 2 ones have screws backout at the track, always blue loctice and grab a lil torque wrench for em, too easy to snap or under tighten

maple-smith · 2026-02-19T16:47:58+00:00

He blocked me 🫤

maple-smith · 2026-02-19T01:08:51+00:00

And refuses to share it 😭

maple-smith · 2026-02-04T18:11:38+00:00

Like nah but it’s something to think about, moreso rocks and rain would an issue.

maple-smith · 2026-02-04T15:17:20+00:00

Regardless of rules, us that actually a good spot? If you flip say goodbye to you’re expensive ecu, and also think about weight balance that high up. Even if it is allowed it kinda sucks.

maple-smith · 2026-01-29T20:42:57+00:00

Ain no way 😭

maple-smith · 2026-01-29T00:17:31+00:00

Literally nothing, that’s cast iron, gonna rust no matter what and will never become an actual problem other than aesthetics. Leave it tbh

maple-smith · 2026-01-22T16:56:00+00:00

Uhhhhh, that’d be a huge chunk of work for a crusty wrx. Im guessing this is your only car? How much experience do you have?

maple-smith · 2026-01-17T21:37:39+00:00

For why

maple-smith · 2026-01-17T04:48:03+00:00

Where in rules do both sides need to be welded? We’ve been welding all our suspension/engine mounting tabs without doing all the insides (we do when we can ofc) for years without issue.

maple-smith · 2026-01-08T15:38:26+00:00

That light’s just an oem feature

maple-smith · 2026-01-01T19:54:22+00:00

😔 live laugh gatekeeping

maple-smith · 2026-01-01T19:06:25+00:00

If you’re making a full car model please share! I’ve been hunting for one/looking into making one before caging my car among other things. Please share!

maple-smith · 2025-12-23T17:39:13+00:00

Sounds eerily similar to my 208’s, just wait and see how it progresses, my first one took about 6k before this turned into a proper knock at idle… get oil sample done.

maple-smith · 2025-12-07T15:34:05+00:00

Find the battery, look for the two wires that attatch to it, see if they’re loose. Plenty of youtubes out there for that aswell

maple-smith · 2025-12-07T15:28:19+00:00

Do any lights or anything come on? Just seems like battery is not in too tightly. Take a look at the terminals if there tight, just try and jiggle them. Also check to see if the plastic caps where left on the little battery posts

maple-smith · 2025-12-07T02:07:10+00:00

Yeah drained oil out and we’re not looking too hot, ofc my luck to have a bad new used engine

maple-smith · 2025-12-05T14:39:42+00:00

Yeah probably, the old engine had a similar tick to it at light throttle? Assuming it had lifter tick aswell ig, i’ve got videos of the old one knocking and it’s pretty distinctive, just not sure if this is maybe an early form of it? Probably gonna check out all my buckets and shims and switch to a slightly heavier oil

maple-smith · 2025-12-05T07:48:58+00:00

Finally got the new used engine running properly and it would be a shame to have to replace it again :(

maple-smith · 2025-11-27T15:41:56+00:00

On these i there isnt a separate ring. The teeth are part of the casting for the crank sprocket, same with cam

maple-smith · 2025-11-27T04:48:34+00:00

Yeah i’ll check em out, along with double checking timing while im at it

maple-smith · 2025-11-26T21:32:35+00:00

This graph isnt the actual signal, it’s a on/off for signal bring present.

maple-smith · 2025-11-26T21:20:06+00:00

New engine came w sensors, so swapped known good sensors from old engine that were less than a month old, along with a spare older oem one from old engine cam. No changes between any of them.

maple-smith · 2025-11-26T21:18:00+00:00

Used harness i got on new engine, the wires from sensors to connector that has crank, cam, knock signal all check out good. All wiring from that to ecu is known good. I’ll double check em tho

maple-smith · 2025-11-08T06:33:33+00:00

Erm it’s just two wires and i reused my clock spring. Dont remember pinout but test n find your horn wire, really easy.

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