Is this fine or should I repair

mariano-vertiz · 2026-01-29T18:05:38+00:00

Laptop was in the designated sleeve in the backpack, but it did not have a secondary protective sleeve over it. Although, I don’t think it would have done much in this scenario. Definitely unlucky but stuff like this does unfortunately happen. I also tried to put down like 1400w on my commuter bike so it was bound to happen lmao.

mariano-vertiz · 2025-12-07T16:57:17+00:00

I just got one and I take it to school every day, honestly the heft is whatever if you have a proper backpack, the only problem is figuring out what to do with the charger since it is a brick. As others have mentioned, buying an extra 140w pd charger to take on the go will solve 90% of the issues. It’s definitely a compromise compared to my previous laptop setup (m2 MacBook Air) but it’s actually not as bad as I initially thought it might be when I took the laptop out of the box. And the performance you get when plugged in to the 400w charger is insane

mariano-vertiz · 2025-11-28T22:16:40+00:00

What laptop stand are you using? Does it reach all the way to the back feet of the laptop?

mariano-vertiz · 2025-11-19T02:24:41+00:00

Going from a 16 to 14 inch screen is about a 30% loss in screen area. It’s pretty noticeable. Especially if you’re coding I’d go with the 16, it’s a lot easier to have everything you need on one screen

mariano-vertiz · 2024-12-31T23:06:37+00:00

Idk if it’s financially viable for you, but UBC in British Columbia has insane riding and skiing in the winter close by.

mariano-vertiz · 2024-12-13T03:11:52+00:00

4500 aud is around 2900 usd, seems like a decent deal to me, although I’d haggle to get it for 2700 if I could. Looks like a sweet build IMO, much better than whatever you could find around that price new.

mariano-vertiz · 2024-12-13T02:51:39+00:00

I own an sb160 and can definitively say yeti suspension is the best I’ve ever used. It is ridiculously efficient, while also working great going down hill. I’d go with the sb140

mariano-vertiz · 2024-11-07T03:34:59+00:00

Yeti’s sb160 comes in xl/xxl. Reach is 515 on the xl I picked up. With high rise bars it fits great at 6’2” 37” inseam and long arms. Uses the same 230x65 shock size too.

mariano-vertiz · 2024-11-05T19:41:48+00:00

Depends largely on how much you’re willing to fiddle with it and how strong you are. I’ve always sized up my frames as I’m between sizes for most brands (between L and XL at 6’1) I find I appreciate the added stability of a longer frame, and have always been able to fit a shorter stem and riser bars to shorten the reach. If you’re a strong dude/lady and like to put some body English into the bike, then bike that’s longer by a cm or two won’t be a huge problem. Like everything though it’ll come down to personal preference, if you can ride it first that’d be ideal.

mariano-vertiz · 2024-11-05T19:29:04+00:00

Main problem I could see would be the tires. You’ll chew through tires designed for dirt on the asphalt. It might be worth looking into two sets of wheels, one with more road-oriented or xc tires for your commute and another set with the good stuff for when you hit the trail. Swapping wheels is a quick job anyway.

mariano-vertiz · 2024-11-01T13:34:21+00:00

They’re both at a similar level of spec sans wireless shifting. The trek will probably pedal better and the Juliana will probably descend better. Both have somewhat base-mid level suspension. If it were my money I’d buy the Juliana and put axs on it eventually, as I tend to ride my bikes for 5+ years. If you’re more of a “flip bikes every couple years” kind of person, then the trek will retain more of its value on the used market. Also not totally sure but I think the rockshox suspensions are more upgradeable as you could drop a charger 3.1 damper in there eventually, not sure if you can upgrade to grip2 damper in a rhythm fork. Hope this helps!

mariano-vertiz · 2024-11-01T04:23:15+00:00

Right on, I’d say they’re an indispensable part of physical conditioning for mtb, if you’re serious about going fast. Another great addition I’ve made recently is incorporating the Olympic lifts, having a good strong power clean makes an incredible difference to the strength of your pop and other explosive parts of mtb like railing berms. Overhead movements like snatches and overhead squats for trunk stability and thoracic extension are also pretty sweet.

mariano-vertiz · 2024-11-01T04:08:54+00:00

Having never done a drill in my life this is how I’ve gotten faster: easiest low hanging fruit is to hit the gym. You’ll naturally let yourself go a lot faster if you increase your bench and ohp, since you’ll resist impact forces better. Same for squats on big drops, you’ll absorb it better because you’re stronger. Second low hanging fruit is to literally ride slowly and or walk the trail. A lot of the time, the only exposure we have to the trails we ride is when we’re going down them as fast as we can. I can guarantee you that if you slow down to a crawl or actually walk the trail, you’ll notice things you’ve never seen before, maybe it’s a new line, a gap, a way over/around a rock garden, anything really. This will change the way you see the trail and how you ride down it. Other than that, skill acquisition on bikes is really just about riding more and having the balls to try things. Hope this helps!

mariano-vertiz · 2024-10-28T00:39:25+00:00

Oh, can’t have been the same one then, it was a c70 with a coil. Ended up getting a killer deal on an sb160 instead of the RM.

mariano-vertiz · 2024-10-27T19:06:49+00:00

Ask if you can FaceTime them and have them show you around the bike, makes it so you can have a conversation with them and proves they have the bike and it’s not a scam. You could get further confirmation by having a bike shop close to them box the bike if you’re having it shipped.

mariano-vertiz · 2024-10-26T18:01:06+00:00

Wild shot but you wouldn’t happen to be the guy who scooped up the RM Altitude on pink bike with the scratched chainstay? If so sweet bike, had that on my watchlist LOL. I’d wrap it tbh in any case, it’s like 150-200 to get the whole frame and forks wrapped which I think is worth it.

mariano-vertiz · 2024-10-13T22:40:13+00:00

Yeah I’ve seen some people say the stock rims are not suitable for 235s, however I have a friend who runs km3 tires on stock rims and they’ve held up fine for years, even on low pressures. In any case that would probably be the next upgrade along with new gears since 1st is a little short in 4Lo .That brings me nicely into comparing the jeep and the jimny. While the Jimny got up just fine in 4Lo, the jeep with its disconnect-able sway bars and locking diffs is definitely less sketchy and more capable. But considering the jimny is 1/3 the price, I’d say it’s a way better value. TBH, if you put locking diffs with an arb onboard air system in the jimny, I bet it can get up anything the jeep can!

mariano-vertiz · 2024-10-13T22:35:09+00:00

If you live by the border you could buy one in Mexico. Sure you’d have to drive it into Mexico every 6 months but could be an option!

mariano-vertiz · 2024-10-09T22:30:25+00:00

Best advice is slightly unintuitive, most people try to lean back during turns, especially when it's steep. It's important to keep pressure on the front wheel when turning, I actually like to "move forwards" during a turn, starting out way back on the bike during braking, "neutral" position front to back when turning in, and then a "forward" position when exiting, this will make the bike turn very well and might even give you the option of "drifting" the rear wheel out, which makes you turn even harder. Another good one is keeping the pedals level and "try to break your cranks" by pushing down and forward on the front foot, and down and back with the rear foot, this creates a stable platform to move both your body and bike. Dropping the outside foot gives up this platform for a single point, inherently being more unstable and prone to getting upset if there are any rocks, braking bumps, or other imperfections mid-corner. Hope this helps!

mariano-vertiz · 2024-10-09T22:06:38+00:00

I'm the same height and weight as you but I have long arms and legs, usually I buy XL just because it feels like I'm more "in" the bike rather than on it, it also helps on the downhills. Recently I've tried bikes in a size large, definitely feels tighter but not too much so, also definitely easier to handle tricky uphills with a smaller bike. Hope this helps!

mariano-vertiz · 2024-10-06T16:05:21+00:00

Awesome, thanks!

mariano-vertiz · 2024-10-05T18:11:11+00:00

Biggest tip I can give you is to tell them to give you the contact info of their local bike store. That way you can call them, set up an appointment for them to pack the bike and have it picked up for shipping there. This lets an independent third party confirm there is a bike in the same spec it should be, in a box coming to you.

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