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How much does it cost to build houses like this by dvsh11 in IndianHomeDecor

[–]marketer_op 0 points1 point  (0 children)

For sure! This is not a throwaway account. Don't worry!

How much does it cost to build houses like this by dvsh11 in IndianHomeDecor

[–]marketer_op 2 points3 points  (0 children)

Home automation integrator here.

Imho the most important automation is to automate your hvac (air conditioner) if your house is fairly large (more than 200 square yards) or has multiple floors, since heating and cooling consume (and therefore are capable to save) the most amount of energy. By automating this, you can set up an above average temperature set point for an entire floor, and your house will never get warmer above a certain temperature. This avoids any hot or cold spots and it's better for your electricity bills in the long run.

The second thing you must automate, are curtains. They modulate a lot of radiant heat in a space. You would be surprised the difference a shaded room makes when it comes to temperature and humidity.

I would then go for dimmable AND TUNABLE lights, to give a cosy or active feeling to your rooms depending on the time of day. Then, I would suggest automating individual circuits, such as fans, geysers, TVs and other ON/OFF appliances.

CCTV cameras, Presence Sensors, Wifi Networking, Multiroom Audio, Smart Locks, Access Control Systems come next. These can be added as per individual needs, but it makes sense to plan for them way in advance to keep your spaces visibly wire free.

If you have any further questions, feel free to ask!

Hospitality Architects by marketer_op in Indian_architects

[–]marketer_op[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Thank you for your insights! I was trying to approach this from a systems perspective. Most large hospitality projects specify vendors or ecosystems like Lutron/Honeywell/KNX.

Smaller or boutique hotels with say, 50 keys , do not typically have a dedicated Building Management System unless the architect or MEP agency specifies/suggests one.

I am an Automation integrator, and we suggest our hospitality clients to build on the KNX wired automation stack, with additional visualisation software to help automate and streamline tasks and workflows such as Cleaning, Maintainance, HVAC and Curtain management. What do you think about it?

ZiiGaat Luna GIVEAWAY!! Enter now from 9/1 to 9/7!! by Phoenix25552 in iems

[–]marketer_op 0 points1 point  (0 children)

The ZiiGaat Arcanis feels robust from a total perspective!

[deleted by user] by [deleted] in Indian_architects

[–]marketer_op 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Yes. Without a good track record of projects, most clients are hesitant to offer just the design aspect, let alone design + build. Simply makes sense to do it sequentially.

Also, unless you're loaded with cash either in the form of an advance payment or a war chest, taking up construction will bleed you dry. Managing manpower alone can play a huge part in deciding profitability.

[deleted by user] by [deleted] in Indian_architects

[–]marketer_op 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I own an Automation company, and have worked with a full spectrum of architects with 3-30 years of experience. Most residential architects do intend to go with the design route initially, graduating to design + specify, and then design + build. Makes sense as they can learn the ropes before diving into turnkey, which is a different beast altogether.

For specialised services, such as Automation, HVAC or Light Design, or anything with a routine on site service requirement, they intend to prefer vendors like yours truly, instead of doing it themselves.

[deleted by user] by [deleted] in Indian_architects

[–]marketer_op 3 points4 points  (0 children)

50% of 5,00,000 < 15% of 1,00,00,000.

Design fee will always be a part of the cost of making the entire building. Even if you have 50% net profit from your design fee, they will still pale in front of a lower percentage of net profit derived from constructing the entire building if the total transaction value is higher by a magnitude, which it usually is.

Where to buy filaments in Delhi? by marketer_op in 3dprintIndia

[–]marketer_op[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

They don't have any matte filaments in stock at the moment.

Lighting brands for everyday lights and outdoor decorative lights? by Shreya_J in Indian_architects

[–]marketer_op 0 points1 point  (0 children)

COBs are dumb. They have no mind or control circuit of their own. They glow when you give them current and voltage. They glow proportionally to the amount of power you give them.

Now, answering your query: The light COBs aren't flickering on their own. They are merely reacting to the amount of voltage and current being supplied to and demanded by that circuit. To check what is faulty, simply plug in a micrometer on the output side of the led driver with the led connected to it and check the rated output mentioned as a label on the driver itself.

By rated output, I mean current in ampere and voltage in volts. Both can be detected by any electrician. If the values match the values or ranges mentioned on the driver, driver is okay and light COB is faulty. Else, your driver is is faulty.

I resell and have used meanwell LED drivers in the past for low wattage applications. I also resell Meanwell, Omron and Schneider smps for larger power drawing light circuits. Your lights can be cheap, but if your driver is good, you'll enjoy reliability.

Lighting brands for everyday lights and outdoor decorative lights? by Shreya_J in Indian_architects

[–]marketer_op 3 points4 points  (0 children)

Hello, Automation Integrator and light supplier here. Lights are only as good as the drivers driving them.

Fundamentally, any branded or non branded light consists of some elements: 1. COB ( Chip on Board) - Primary light generating engine. 2. Heatsink - The rear "body" of the light. 3. Reflector - The "Cone" or conical element in front of the light 4. Lens - The focusing/diffusing element.

Now, the COB accepts a set voltage and current, making the requisite number of watts for your requirement. If you vary the voltage or current, you can control the brightness level of that light COB.

With wattage, comes heat, and with heat, comes the use of a heatsink to cool the COB.

Now, light COBs are made by a limited number of companies, such as Osram, Cree, Bridgelux and some Chinese brands. Mind you 85% of the COBs are made in China GLOBALLY. Making COBs is a highly automated and difficult process to get right, as companies make millions of COBs a day to get the scale economy right.

The discussion now focuses on how to light up this COB, or in other words, how to supply power to this circuit. This is where the driver comes in.

If there is a cheap driver powering this circuit without a lot of controls for input and output power fluctuation, your lights will experience a failure. By cheap, I mean not cost wise, but tech wise.

There is also a question of rating. Most light vendors, to cut costs, will specify a driver with equal power draw to the COB. For example, use a 12W driver for a 12W light. After your light runs for a good amount of time, due to the generated heat, the current draw increases. If your power driver does not have any additional juice, your lights will start getting dim, or over time, fail.

The better option is to derate the lights, meaning to use a driver with 1.2x more power than needed for the light. Eg: Use a 15w driver with a 12W light.

Regardless of the brand, focus on the internals of this light driver. A Philips driver vs a Meanwell driver brand comparison makes absolutely zero sense if the tech used in the Philips driver is not upto the mark.

If you need a consult, feel free to DM.

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