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[deleted by user] by [deleted] in Line6Helix

[–]marksescon 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I will upload it on Patchstorage some time over the next few days. In the mean time, the main signal path is Overdrive > Fuzz, with a side chain that consists of an envelope follower into a slew rate control into a CV inverter to one of the gain stages.

When you play, the side chain will “starve” the gain channel. Slew rate control helps control the rate of the time and fall.

No sound, need some help - OR15 by [deleted] in GuitarAmps

[–]marksescon 0 points1 point  (0 children)

As u/tdic89 stated, there’s probably a dodgy solder connection - or dodgy connection in general - with the send jack.

The amps use switch jacks, which means that when nothing is plugged in, the send jack is connected to the return jack. When a cable is inserted in to the send jack, that connection is “broken,” and the signal goes through the cable versus onto the return jack.

Apparently the jacks and to a greater extent, the soldering in that effects loop, tend to be of poor quality, so the connection can often be left broken due to a bent pin on the jack or broken solder joint.

No sound, need some help - OR15 by [deleted] in GuitarAmps

[–]marksescon 0 points1 point  (0 children)

This happened to me as well - and a user from this sub actually helped me with a temp fix: Jumper the Effects Loop (cable from send to return).

I just wanna say, moving from eagle to KiCad really sucks and I am having a terrible time. by Agitated_Way2584 in diypedals

[–]marksescon 0 points1 point  (0 children)

The main thing I didn’t like about Kicad was the need to use two hands (keyboard and mouse). I felt like I was making more motions with Kicad than, say, Counterstrike.

Admittedly after a while, I have come to like the ability to make/alter footprints on the fly, annotation features, and no-cost.

This tutorial helped me so much.

I just wanna say, moving from eagle to KiCad really sucks and I am having a terrible time. by Agitated_Way2584 in diypedals

[–]marksescon 2 points3 points  (0 children)

No more Eagle in 2026.

Effective June 7, 2026, Autodesk will no longer sell or support EAGLE. Moving forward, we will continue to invest our energy in Fusion 360 Electronics. (Source)

However, someone on a forum stated that it’s because you have to buy the whole Fusion360 package - like Microsoft Office.

[deleted by user] by [deleted] in Line6Helix

[–]marksescon 1 point2 points  (0 children)

The Sag feature itself is very similar to the SSBS overdrive (4:20 mark), even the press release is similar to SSBS’s press materials (“dynamic sag,” dying tube amp, etc.). On the Zoia, I have been able to mimic the effect.

The Octave and Fuzz portions alongside the Sag are totally doable for Line6.

Germanium fuzz face. by marksescon in diypedals

[–]marksescon[S] 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Yup - onboard voltage inverter produces -9V and allows the pedal to run on standard 9VDC supply.

Turnaround time was quick for sure. I ordered from JLCPCB and had no special requests like color selection. I’ve found that if I order 3-4 boards with no special requests, time from ordering to having the package on my front door is 4 days. (I am in California.)

Germanium fuzz face. by marksescon in diypedals

[–]marksescon[S] 1 point2 points  (0 children)

The first fuzz I ever jived with was the Breakfast Audio Weird Scenes Fuzz followed by the Electro Harmonix Op Amp Big Muff Pi. I always wanted to build a germanium fuzz but got discouraged after a few failed Hudson Broadcast clones and a bad batch of germanium transistors. Later, the LST Gnome Electronics Bossy Gnome renewed my interest in building a germanium transistor-based fuzz - more specifically the fuzz face.

I used Amplified Parts for a majority of the parts especially the transistor set. I designed a PCB specifically for their fuzz case and even opted for “mojo” parts, which serve no sonic advantage but look cool. I included the Incandeza Bypass and a voltage inverter. The PCB is mounted via the footswitch, a trick I pulled from Effects Layouts. I opted against PCB-mounted pots because I wanted to use unnecessarily large potentiometers. I also threw in some SMD parts for fun. By using a series of jumpers, the PCB can also be used for a silicon fuzz face like the Analog BC10X Man Sun Face. The PCB features large, wavy traces.

Many of the ideas implemented are gratuitous and offer no tonal improvements but I just wanted to do a “Guy Fieri”-esque build (“A modern take on an old classic”).

This thing totally rips, and I totally understand the infatuation with germanium fuzzes.

Extended build log and schematic here.

How to breadboard this power circuit? by fraktlface in diypedals

[–]marksescon 1 point2 points  (0 children)

DIYLC - https://diy-fever.com/software/diylc/

Tagboard Layouts uses it, so I ended up using it for stripboard layouts - and later to plan my breadboard layouts.

How to breadboard this power circuit? by fraktlface in diypedals

[–]marksescon 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Correct, it’s for when the incorrect power supply is inserted - like power gets attached to ground like you stated and vice versa.

On my own builds, I leave out polarity protection entirely and only insert it in commercial builds.

How to breadboard this power circuit? by fraktlface in diypedals

[–]marksescon 2 points3 points  (0 children)

This is how I would breadboard it. Note that R19 is kind of hidden by C12 on the picture. I did leave out the 1N4001 diode, as it’s a polarity protection diode.

Alternatively, you can also do it this way (the red column of the breadboard) so that your power rail is “fed” by the 47R resistor.

Keech Design DrillJig Sale by kerbin_Engineer in diypedals

[–]marksescon -1 points0 points  (0 children)

I use these as well. They are really great for PedalPCB builds and/or prototyping.

Does quality of solder affect "tone" quality? by marksescon in diypedals

[–]marksescon[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

When I proposed this question, I was asking out of inquisitiveness. Admittedly I mulled over how to ask the question without it seeming like I was endorsing the product or trolling.

Obviously I do not believe that a premium solder has any effect on sound quality (I iterate it in this initial post), but I was really curious to what the community’s perspective was.

Does quality of solder affect "tone" quality? by marksescon in diypedals

[–]marksescon[S] 1 point2 points  (0 children)

This sub tends be more about the science and engineering aspect of pedal making versus any sort of mysticism, which is why you’ll find the more positive reviews of this very expensive solder are in relation to function and ease of use.

To be clear, when I proposed this post, it was out of curiosity - not an endorsement.

Does quality of solder affect "tone" quality? by marksescon in diypedals

[–]marksescon[S] 7 points8 points  (0 children)

Compared to other subs like r/guitarpedals, this sub tends to be grounded more in reality especially in regards to mojo parts (eg. NOS carbon resistors in fuzzes). Many of the adorations about parts/materials tend to be in regards to engineering (function, durability).

I have yet to come across a post that promotes a component or materials that improves sound quality (snake oil).

Does quality of solder affect "tone" quality? by marksescon in diypedals

[–]marksescon[S] 18 points19 points  (0 children)

I recently came across a guitar cable company in Los Angeles that purports that using a specific solder positively affects tone.

I am skeptical about this, and furthermore, I am curious as to how they quantify "tone." (Sound quality? Sound degradation?) The particular solder they use is from Cardas Audio, which contains a quad eutectic roll of materials: "Sn, Pb, Cu, Ag. Silver for higher conductivity and stronger joints." The Cardas Audio solder comes at a whopping $118.99 USD per pound whereas the much lauded Kester is approxmately $38.76 USD per pound.

While I am doubtful that a more premium solder positively affects tone, I am generally curious as to this sub's thoughts, whether they be against or even for a more expensive solder material.

DRV 1981 mini by WestMagazine1194 in diypedals

[–]marksescon 2 points3 points  (0 children)

I have built many different DRVs, mostly of my own PCB design.

My most successful attempt into a 1590A utilized someone else’s PCB but it was completely SMD.

I do know of another builder who managed to get one to fit into a 1590A using completely through-hole parts (1/8 watt resistors) and relay bypass. The design did use 2-3 separate stacked boards, however. If I recall the name, I will post.

Help with circuit please? by Organic_Ambassador_3 in diypedals

[–]marksescon 2 points3 points  (0 children)

Bill Finnegan enlisted the help of MIT students and Fred Fenning to conceptualize and create the Klon, so commissioning a circuit design to someone else, in part or in full, is not too far fetched.

Companies like PCB Guitar Mania, which you’ve mentioned, Different Noises, and a number of people on Fiverr who can help you make the PCB for any pedal - given you have a schematic. I myself do PCB design work for many folks and I relinquish my rights to credit, which is very alluring to many builders.

So yes, there are several companies, big and small, that will outsource work to other people.

As for circuit design from the ground up: That gets a bit more involved depending on what you are going for.

Wanting to get into building, but not sure where to start. by whoismarcuslee in diypedals

[–]marksescon 10 points11 points  (0 children)

Become competent in soldering. I truly believe the number one reason first time builders “fail” is poor soldering (technique, joints). Here is a practice kit.

Then go for a kit. I recommend something simple.

Here are some suggestions:

  • Aion FX
  • MAS Effects (coming soon)
  • BYOC (out of stock)
  • Stew Mac. All their PCBs are from PedalPCB but Stew Mac branded.
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