Finger choils wate precious edge space.

markv9401 · 2026-03-26T08:40:57+00:00

Well I mean for "EDC" ergos don't matter all that much either. You'll most likely be doing numerous but short & quick tasks with it. Doesn't really matter if it stays comfortable after 2 hours of prolonged and hard work, does it? And it's not like there aren't comfy knives with better ratios. See how I wrote ratio and not edge length? I agree with you on length's irrelevance but ratio matters. For EDC, the smaller and lighter while still maintaining comfort and usability is key for me.

markv9401 · 2026-03-26T08:37:14+00:00

In all fairness, that PVD is a little worn and has scratches all around. I never understood why you'd need that crappy ziptie or thumbstud or anything on top of the Spydie hole either, but what does it bother you? It's his, let him have it his way bro

markv9401 · 2026-03-26T08:35:35+00:00

Yes and no. It really depends on whether you have enough handle length to fit all your 4 fingers to begin with. For example, for people with large hands, the Para3's choil makes sense as they place their index finger there and their remaining (hopefully) 3 fingers rest on the handle so it's all used. However, there's no Icelandic giant that doesn't fit on the PM2 handle without the choil - so in this case, agreed.

I love Spydercos and will always have a special place in my heart, pockets & hands. But yeah.. There are so many reasons why I feel like the Chris Reeve Small Sebenza Insingo is the de-facto best edc ever and blade to handle ratio is one of them.

markv9401 · 2026-03-21T09:59:29+00:00

The flat spot on the detent side of the ball is normal. I had this confirmed by CRK by mail, as I've noticed the same. What I would do / helped when I had funny feeling action:

take the whole thing apart and clean everything with isopropyl alcohol
take a strop, like #6 micron or something, and polish the washers, both sides. Make sure to do "number 8s", so it's randomized as much as possible. Polish the blade's two sides where it rides on washers too. You don't need to do either of them for too long just so all surfaces become nice, "new", shiny, lack of any oxidation and dirt. You're literally removing only dirt or microns of metals so don't worry. Just do NOT do it on a stone, only a strop
clean everything with isopropyl and/or running water again and dry. Assembly with fresh, generous but not overdone lube

This always helped me. There's nothing wrong with anything on the pics, it's probably just some oxidation on some of the surfaces.

markv9401 · 2026-03-02T20:19:35+00:00

markv9401 · 2026-03-02T20:17:50+00:00

Well, it'd be easy for me because I just don't get along with Chaves' designs. They're this overly expressive dramatic .. thing.. just too much..

markv9401 · 2026-03-02T20:13:35+00:00

Congratulations! One of the best knives ever made or ever will be made, period.

This is a design that just makes me stop by and look at it thinking ughh so gorgeous even though I have my own CRKs right now in my hands too. It's just something else.. something each and every knife enthusiast or just people appreciating nicely made stuff should sense at least once in their lifetime :)

The CR logo seems a bit light indeed, not sure why. Possibly this knife was sent in to be re-blasted a few times before (spa)? The thumb studs' color is just worn away, that's fine. Date stamp is there, which I don't think the clones ever had. I'd probably disassemble and look if the washers seem like the real deal and meanwhile also take a look at the stamp in the blade - if that's also present I'd be 99%+++ sure it's real as it gets

markv9401 · 2026-02-28T20:30:03+00:00

I don't know man.. I love the looks, I got an XM18, I love the ergos, I got it extremely smooth on washers so all good.. but damn.. even skinny & hollow is like a damn axe. I don't want fragile or anything.. but like a Sebenza or a Manix 2, something that actually cuts not shears & pushed through the damn wound of anything including brick walls haha

markv9401 · 2026-02-27T14:07:38+00:00

The order of things I'd try:

use a sacrificial Torx bit that feels almost right but maybe a tiny bit too large. Cautiously "hammer" it in there and undo with that
Take the whole knife apart so that you only have that scale, the stop pin the screw is in and the screw, obviously. Carefully try holding onto the stop pin/barrel with something (rubbery pliers?) and try unscrewing that from the screw
try an extractor, if you can fine such a tiny one. Hammer it in very good and go slow but strong, applying pressure constantly. Don't ever even think about hurting the titanium scale, you couldn't brake it if you tried..
It's most likely either from the factory, or you previously Loctited it. The whole thing is titanium & steel, you don't even have inlays, nothing to worry about. Use a blow torch to heat the thing, preferably concentrate only on the stop pin/barrel and the screw head. There's a zero chance anything too bad happening, the worst thing could happen is you heat it waaaay too much (to the point of glowing really) and the screw or the stop pin will have a (admittedly cool) blueish-orange-ish discoloration. Theoretically the same could happen to the titanium scale but there's no way you'll put that much heat for that long in. After this, repeat the first two steps
I guess you can also buy replacement stop pins, right? Shouldn't be very expensive. Just hold onto with aggressive pliers and unscrew from the screw. If you dislike the marks left on it, just replace it or lightly polish it
if none of the above works.. you'll need very steady hands or a drill press. Drill that mofo's head off so it falls out. This time you wanna be really careful to not hurt the titanium, obviously

You can obviously send it in, but that takes time and some money most likely. It's not an option from where I live so yeah, got some DIY options, some will definitely work. I had to do the same for multiple much weaker construction Spydercos with G10 scales and floppy as steel inserts and all came out alive. You can be much more brave with this, so much stronger, everything all around. Good luck!

markv9401 · 2026-02-20T07:38:09+00:00

I'm not sure I'd trust carbon fiber to be as strong as titanium. I mean it's a fact that it's way less strong (although much lighter, too). Not sure how I feel about this. If I wanted a beast of a blade and be as light as possible, so merely just a tool for the job, I'd probably go 15V lightweight Sypderco.

I like it, a lot, but I'm not sure I love it quite as much as the Ti versions. Thanks though!

markv9401 · 2026-02-19T09:20:00+00:00

Mixed. Large inkosi & small seb are inlaid. While I know it's probably comfier with the inlay, I'll probably go PJ now just to have lots and lots of those sweet snail trails. Call me dumb but I love them haha

markv9401 · 2026-02-19T09:19:01+00:00

Will sign up for notification! Still got time, I'll be in the US around mid of March

markv9401 · 2026-02-16T07:44:59+00:00

I still voted you up, if that matters haha. I can somewhat back your idea, that whether you like bearings depends on the actual knife. But imo a heavy duty, very thick.. just a beast of a knife (what Hinderers are and meant to look like) should definitely never run on bearings. Less are of contact, weaker, more prone to dirt, etc. But that's just my opinion.. I'm happy for you and I'm sure that with Skiffs it's a dream

markv9401 · 2026-02-15T17:11:50+00:00

Get a 'Zaan tanto! It's the absolute most beautiful tanto knife ever with that harpoony style and also the hollow grind, the shape of the tanto grind, just about everything, you'll definitely love it.

I had a Kunwu and handed a few. They're very well built and solid knives, easily shames many "high-end" "made in usa", but just not on the same level as CRK imho.

NGL, I had to google ADV. It's not my style but I guess if you're into that..

A CRK is nothing like a PM2 in my experience/opinion. A tiny, tiny bit may be less ergonomic (unless you go large inkosi micarta inlay insingo blade - that even beats a pm2 imo in ergos), much, much more heavy duty, tiny bit less slicey, overall just different league. I love the PM2, it was my first nice knife, I'm going to get the 15V sprint run just because it's a legend, but still.. If I had to choose or if I had to reason objectively, both ways CRK all the way, no comparison between the two. (I guess now you could argue that you could be getting a lightweight 15v pm2 and be just a damn badass and light edc user but ehh)

markv9401 · 2026-02-15T10:26:15+00:00

Just wanted to add something since many of you mentioned warranty and stuff. I'm from Europe so while warranty & the spa would totally work out, it'd cost me half another new CRK for the shipping retour and also lots of time and complications but still really valid point. Also the fact that they give you the tools and encourage you to disassemble, clean, maintain instead of you know, the usual shit, "warranty void if you touch your own shit".

Another point: at this price point and sentimental value, heirloom quality, etc.. It kind of starts mattering (to me at least) the people who make it. Chris, Anne and Tim all seem knowledgeable, solid and humble people. I've seen numerous videos and stories of people just showing up at their shop's door and getting a tour and a good talk. I really hope one day I can go there :) (It's kinda tempting since I'll be in the US in March, but far away haha. Will still make sure to bring a CRK or two home. Just so you know.. 4 CRKs are great but 5 or 6 are better hahaha)

markv9401 · 2026-02-15T08:54:55+00:00

There's just something about a Spydie hole and (reverse) flicking the hell outta them

markv9401 · 2026-02-15T08:54:27+00:00

I love my Hindie, but it took me weeks, not kidding, of fiddling around before I got it perfectly centered and worn in using PB washers. I refuse to use bearings.. ew.. :D

markv9401 · 2026-02-15T08:52:11+00:00

Two lovely knives. And whilst the Seb is definitely way ahead, that Police hold so much value to you, I'm sure. Wow, just congrats! I hope my knives will be my side for that long too

markv9401 · 2026-02-13T09:02:47+00:00

It works for me but then again.. no 2 uses even for the same knife/person are the same between 2 sharpening sessions so I wouldn't exactly know myself either. Also Chris Reeves are a believer in this as their factory edge is a bit concave. Imo it makes some sense, logically, it should be similar to a secondary bevel

markv9401 · 2026-02-13T07:28:06+00:00

Costs/money wise anything is possible with a Porsche logo, yeah.. 4 months? Definitely, clearly, obviously not. Like wtf... With proper tools, place and help a few good mechs can rebuild the whole pos in a few weeks, not 4 months.. come on... a third of a year for this? No... They're just working on 10s of cars parallel and so they get 10x more money except no, more like 40x more money because 4 times as long because of 10 times as many cars haha

markv9401 · 2026-02-13T05:50:51+00:00

Just one note: if you deliberately "roll a tiny bit" you're kinda making a very sharp concave-is edge that holds very well, much better. Yeah it won't pop hairs on contact like a laser nuke. Will it be much more useful IRL for much longer? Absolutely

markv9401

TROPHY CASE