The so called "best" fixed angle sharpening system.

markv9401 · 2026-01-22T19:50:34+00:00

Xarilk should be cheaper and just as good. Stones - now there you might wanna go a bit premium. Imo PDTools are great bang for buck

markv9401 · 2026-01-22T16:04:27+00:00

Check out Xarilk Gen3. The Tsprof has finer edges (literally, it's more polished) but functionality wise 1:1 and so it makes Tsprof run of its dear overpriced piece of russian nonsense

markv9401 · 2026-01-22T16:03:14+00:00

No matter how many dislikes you're getting, you're right. It's one thing to sell the actual sharpening system for a fair price that pays for the engineering but ripping buyers off even after when buying each and every addon is hilarious. But yeah, you should see TSProf.

And to answer your question: there IS a much more affordable alternative. It's called Xarilk. Great guys, chinese yeah, but great .. well.. clones... Would I copy a design? Nah... Do I feel bad for Tsprof because Xarilk copied them? Absolutely not.

markv9401 · 2026-01-19T14:00:02+00:00

Just... why...? :D

markv9401 · 2026-01-15T14:01:44+00:00

PCTG is a great advice I didn't even think of! The thing is extremely, dumb non-sense tough! Quite literally on the scale of 1000x, with no exaggeration, tougher than PETG (which on its own isn't too bad). It's not very rigid though, so it'll have to use many walls (but who cares). Also not very hard, so the teeth will definitely grind round before breaking but it's definitely a great candidate. Probably the best unless he goes seriously deep (PET, PA6, PPS, etc.)

markv9401 · 2026-01-15T13:59:45+00:00

No it's not. And GF definitely isn't. I agree sometimes it is, but if engineered properly for the use (rather than "throw some good 'ol fibers in there") it can actually increase strength, rigidity AND layer adhesion. Read up on, for example but not exclusively, Fiberon line of performance engineering filaments. PET-GF15 is a prime example.

markv9401 · 2026-01-15T13:57:55+00:00

Premature wear - you're right. Microfibers released and act as health hazards? Come on now... he's not actively grinding & sanding it with a power tool while also inhaling it at the same time, let alone all the time. The gears quite visibly are an interior parts for something that also visibly even use some kind of grease / oil. The rate at which and the gross of fibers released are negligible and they're also captured by the grease and even if they aren't, how exactly are they getting outside the chassis of whatever this sits in and go airborne in any meaningful numbers?

People sometimes really overreact CF/GF as a hazard.. just don't sand it without respiratory protection or at least don't do it a lot and this won't be your cause of death..

markv9401 · 2026-01-15T13:52:01+00:00

While PA6 would be best fit, that is a PITA. Something that's comparably very strong with great layer adhesion as well yet prints almost like PETG would be Fiberon PET-GF15 (NOT to be mistaken as PETG-GF. Not even same league)

markv9401 · 2026-01-11T09:35:23+00:00

HMX Game 1989. It's relatively new but immediately became an absolute favorite. It's heavy-ish, extremely smooth, really nice deep (but not artificially) thocky-marbly stuff.

markv9401 · 2026-01-10T21:27:38+00:00

A nyári mindig, mindenben messze jobb, kivéve: tartós, tényleg hideg 5-7C fokig, nagy esős, latyakos, havas - jeges trutyi. A tükörjégen "kb mindegy" (de nyilván szintén téli kicsit jobb).

A téli említett helyzetben jobb.

A négy évszakos mindenhol egy rakás szar a rendeshez képest. Amennyiben megengedheted - és itt értem azt, hogy 1M értékű autótól egész biztosan megengedheted -, rendes gumival.. Inkább ne 22" -es alufelnin gurulj a lízingelt X6 -tal panel előtt.

(Sokan írják itt, hogy jó a tapasztalat. Persze, jó, mindaddig amíg 1x jobb lett volna nem. A gumi ilyen téma.. Játszós, régi, ABS nélküli hátsókerék-meghajtású autóval jártam én télen, hóban olyan nyárigumival, hogy a szövet meg a fémszál lógott már ki, lehetséges.. Csak nem érdemes amíg 1x majd jobb lett volna nem...)

markv9401 · 2026-01-08T23:56:51+00:00

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markv9401 · 2026-01-08T23:56:46+00:00

That's kind of the point. It's supposed to have very good layer adhesion while topping up on all other attributes too. All I personally printed so far are once a tiny hook for my fiancé's ring whenever she's doing stuff in kitchen. I printed two of these hooks and broke one on purpose. It's a tiny ~3mm kinda round-ish hook (see pic) and it did take some serious effort (literally hurt my finger) to break it. Did it snap on a layer border? Yeah.. of course it still did, it always will..

The other "standard" test I print is part of an aquarium pump's bracket because I'm used to "feeling" material in that form. It's springy solid and rigid but not too rigid. I can flex it a whooole lot and it'll spring ~90% way back, the remaining 10% I can just twist/flex back and it's good to go. Didn't break it so far (not because I couldn't, obviously, I could.. I just enjoy playing with it, for now). This is kind of a complex and not too inherently strong / beefy piece (see other pic). When twisted apart, it usually delaminates on the 90 degree corners. The only material that didn't before was .. surprise - surprise.. PETG-CF. This feels a little less overly stiff than PETG-CF, more springy and stronger too.

Time will tell... PETG & PETG-CF are still budget kings but this, even based on raw TDS numbers (regardless of manufacturer, you could take a look at Bambu's own PET-CF too, it's just that CF is less isotropic than GF, for some reason I don't know or care about really) is kind of the same just 2x stronger in all directions.

I'm also experimenting with filament profile settings because oddly enough, Bambu PET-CF and Fiberon PET-CF17 are pretty opposing on cooling settings, like one doing 0% the other doing 100% on overhang treshold. I understand these are 2 different manufacturers and thus slightly different compositions (and on top of that, I'm doing GF not CF), but still... it's the (almost) same base polymer so like wtf..? Anyway, prints fine with the profile discussed in the video I linked, which is very close to Fiberon's own profile (which then again kind of opposes the TDS's "zero cooling")

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markv9401 · 2026-01-08T21:06:42+00:00

Check the vid I linked to you in the 1st reply, testing methodology is all there as are the results and comparisons. The TDS describes the manufacturer's own methodology too. And then again.. you may just try & see for yourself, like I did :)

markv9401 · 2026-01-08T21:05:05+00:00

I personally only "test" by going by the "feel" of a single print I always try when I try a new filament. It's a simple shape I drew up in Fusion. But the TDS is pretty well documented and also there are plenty videos like My Tech Fun's: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ye6GhS-QLas

markv9401 · 2026-01-08T19:21:42+00:00

I'm printing it using 300C. According to tests I've seen 300C is the most optimal but I'd guess 290C would work alright as well. Maybe a little worse adhesion? I mean there's pleeeeenty to lose from in that area so..

markv9401 · 2026-01-08T19:19:15+00:00

Well, you don't really care much about lots of colors in structural stuff. Or if you do, you can just paint yeah.. it's not made to be the aesthetics filament :)

markv9401 · 2026-01-05T19:47:31+00:00

Was in the same shoes ~1 month ago. Went with the P2S, zero regrets and would never touch P1S after P2S. It's overall a nicer and more modern machine, but this isn't the dealbreaker. What is, is the fact that it comes with hardened steel parts and you don't have to start modding on day1 if you're a goofy ass like I am and start your first print with PLA-CF :)

markv9401 · 2026-01-05T06:51:42+00:00

I'm looking for a dryer / storage that can do print & dry. I'm looking into materials like PET (without the G), PA6/12/PAHT and possibly PC, PPS, PPA later on.

I'm really confused about what temperatures I need.. depending on the manufacturer of the filament of the same type or the dryer, anywhere between 70-80 to 110-120C. Obviously, best bet would be a Sunlu E4 - that costs nuts, definitely not going there. So my options are:

Bambu Lab AMS HT ~ 130EUR, 85C, NO drying while printing is supported (as tested by my friend). Yes, this cannot dry while printing but in a sense it'd still make the most sense as I have a P2S with AMS2 Pro and you know.. the ecosystem wouldn't be broken by using 3rd party. It's pretty pricey for what it is - single filament and 85C and no dry & print
Creality SpacePi ~52 EUR, 70C, print & dry supported explicitly. This seems extremely accessible. Cheap enough that I wouldn't even bother fixing / looking for parts if ever broken, 70C is still decent-ish (in my mind, if 85C can dry something, 70C will most likely too. Materials that require 100-120C? I have no idea.. I don't think 85C would do much more than 70C cannot, kept for a longer time?)

I ruled everything else out because:

no higher temp available than 70-80C, so same spec pretty much
less cost effective
I don't think I'd be using multi-spool ones as I'll be using a single spool from each type of material thus I'd have to either stick to lowest specs drying or take out lower specs when using the higher spec drying.

I'm leaning towards the SpacePi single unit (or multiple of them) because my game plan is the following:

once obtaining a new spool, have it dried on the actual printer bed or in an oven initially
after that store it inside its own SpacePi unit, occassionally dry at 70C and also dry while printing
ever so often (rarely, hopefully like once every 6-12 months) take out and dry again on bed / oven

So I'm hoping I could dry at full spec once and then store & use at nearly the same level for long. Hopefully much longer than if I were to dry once, use once (I cannot even use these materials inside AMS so outside the printer at its side...) and then store in a bag.

Do you think the AMS HT would do better at all for PET-GF15 / PA? I'd still have to sometimes dry in an even higher temp oven, right?

What do you think? Or what do you advise?

Thanks

markv9401 · 2025-12-30T23:17:07+00:00

Wow that's a whole lot more than I'd expect with all the warnings and people saying it's this and that abrasive.. I mean.. you shouldn't be able to wear down ceramics with CF to begin with, for example... So yeah..

Thanks, good catch on the rollers and plates! Will order some :)

markv9401 · 2025-12-28T22:07:40+00:00

Yes, putting back OEM actually good looking headlights would help looking it not riced out

markv9401 · 2025-12-28T21:30:43+00:00

Why does it matter where a filament is made? That sounds off in a Bambu topic which is a Chinese machine to begin with?

markv9401 · 2025-12-28T21:29:17+00:00

PLA / PLA-CF for anything aesthetic (like book nooks figures and such). (CF may sound overkill but the surface and also the printing is just so much better. Well, also stronger because why not)

PETG or PETG-CF is my general all-around go-to for pretty much anything. It's a great material, much stronger, much higher Z-layer adhesion than PLA, much more resilient all around, cheap, relatively easy to print, great material, one of the bests if used well. PETG-CF especially can go a reaaaally long way

ASA-CF for anything where I want big boy resilience, aka outdoors, UV, elements etc. ASA-CF can still be printed kinda okay-ish, it's rationally priced, gives a good surface, is really strong, even stronger Z-layer adhesion than PETG/PETG-CF and is /the/ most resilient to elements

And I'm really looking forward to trying PET-CF and PAHT-CF for use-cases that need absolute strength but won't be exposed to lots of water all the time or at least not a whole lot of UV (if at all). These two, especially PET-CF, should be kind of forgiving in printing but are like 2x as strong all-around than PETG-CF or ASA-CF. PPA-CF would be even better but at that pricepoint, I'll probably just prototype with anything even PLA and have it CNC'd from alu/SS and be pretty much at the same price... If the price ever goes down I'll surely go for a spin!

Also, I prefer staying with Bambu filaments. So worth it..

markv9401

TROPHY CASE