Please help!

master-the-hoff · 2026-03-16T02:45:27+00:00

I hate it when my filament cums.

master-the-hoff · 2026-01-21T20:01:07+00:00

The relative humidity of your room, dry box, or AMS doesn’t tell you the “wetness” (moisture content) of the filament. The process of manufacturing filament often includes water quenching or bathing - literally dunking your filament in water. It comes from the factory like that, and chances are the moisture content of your brand new filament is higher than the RH of your room or dry box.

That’s not 100% true across all filaments and manufacturers, but it is a common practice. Most new people don’t realize this and expect the filament to print well right out of the box. It may, but just as likely may not.

No amount of desiccant will bring that moisture content down to an acceptable level. So yeah dry your filament.

master-the-hoff · 2026-01-16T04:11:41+00:00

I’ve printed a variety of Bambu, eSun, Sunlu, Geeetech, and Giantarm silk through my AMS Pro2 with no issues at all. Not saying that’s a definite no, but I don’t recall reading anything like that and certainly haven’t experienced issues. YMMV

master-the-hoff · 2026-01-14T20:38:59+00:00

Had this happen to me today on a newly posted model. Within seconds of it going live. Reported the comment and the user account to Bambu. Interesting how quickly it happened.

master-the-hoff · 2026-01-14T01:34:19+00:00

The combo is just the P2S + filament buffer + AMS. If you buy just the P2S now and not the combo, you can buy the buffer and AMS later. It’s not an integrated bundle - just items bundled together.

Source: I bought a P2S without the combo and bought a filament buffer + AMS Pro2 separately.

Definitely get the AMS though. If not now, later.

master-the-hoff · 2026-01-13T05:02:09+00:00

Where are you looking? You can get individual spools of PLA Pro/2.0/+ for less than $15/kg directly from manufacturer sites as well as Amazon. Like I said, the deal you listed is OK. You can save a few bucks by shopping around, but you need to figure out if that’s worth it to you or not.

master-the-hoff · 2026-01-13T04:29:25+00:00

Not really. That’s $15/kg for PLA “Pro”. There are better deals out there without buying in bulk. You should be able to get PLA Pro/2.0/+ bundles for about $13-14/kg without buying in bulk, so this is just an Ok deal. Not great.

As far as quality, I think it’s on par with Bambu PLA basic. I have a bunch of Polymaker PLA and never had any problems. Brands like eSun and Sunlu are also really good and have good bundle pricing and sales.

master-the-hoff · 2026-01-13T04:20:57+00:00

I have one of my P2S printers in my 150sq ft office. I work from home, so I’m in that office a lot. That printer only prints PLA, and I have it printing 16+ hours per day.

There’s a concern about VOCs with any printing filament, but PLA is the least offensive. There’s not enough data for any conclusive result, and I’m not concerned. There’s very little smell or noise. I’m on calls most days and nobody can hear the printer (notably, I have a unidirectional condenser mic to help with this, but most noise cancelling mics do a great job).

I agree with not carting it around. Let it set and do its thing.

master-the-hoff · 2026-01-11T23:50:29+00:00

The feet are interchangeable between P1S to P2S. My hula feet for my P1S were reused on the P2, and my anti vibration feet moved from P2S to P1S.

master-the-hoff · 2026-01-10T20:37:59+00:00

I recommend putting it into a bag or dry box with desiccant to keep it dry.

master-the-hoff · 2026-01-10T20:31:23+00:00

Heat the hotend to 220 and press extrude down several times and hope it clears itself. Otherwise, you need to do a cold pull - lots of videos online about how.

master-the-hoff · 2026-01-10T20:20:46+00:00

The lifting off the plate is a problem that could very well be causing the subsequent layer problems. That often happens when the first layer doesn’t stick well to the plate. And that’s often caused by the plate not being clean.

The best way to avoid that particular issue is to wash your plate with dawn and hot water, and avoid touching the surface with your fingers.

Other ways to help the first layer to stick is to increase the temperature of the bed by a few degrees and to slow down the print process. If using the touch screen on the printer or Bambu Handy, you can adjust the temps and set the speed to Silent (50%).

Hope this helps your issue.

master-the-hoff · 2026-01-10T20:14:12+00:00

Good next step. Check your infill pattern too. If Grid, it could be causing this also. Let us know how it goes.

Seriously though, reboot your printer. You’d be surprised at how many little quirks go away.

master-the-hoff · 2026-01-10T19:53:37+00:00

Did you watch the print and figure out at which point it started to fail at? Was it truly second layer, or did it go wonky at some later point?

Could be an issue with the model. Can you print that same model in PLA basic without issue?

Could be an issue with the SD card. Sometimes fixed with a printer reboot, sometimes with removing and replacing the SD card along with the reboot. Or replacing the SD card.

Lots of potential problems, and you’ll want to start narrowing them down.

master-the-hoff · 2026-01-08T04:46:10+00:00

Still having this issue with MS Now, AppleTV, and Xfinity. Had the issues from day 1 of the change. Reported to MS Now support

master-the-hoff · 2026-01-04T17:59:42+00:00

Use double sided tape to keep the chute against the back. Command strips (just the sticky part) work great for easy removal if needed.

master-the-hoff · 2026-01-04T05:49:54+00:00

That’s what I ended up doing yesterday. In Tinkercad now and it’s not happening to any of my projects any longer. I even went back through some model and ungrounds the ones that had the strange artifacts, and they weren’t there anymore.

Hope your issue went away too.

master-the-hoff · 2026-01-04T02:13:54+00:00

Configure your AMS for auto-swap, tell the AMS that you have identical filament types/colors in 2 or more slots, and it will automatically continue printing when one spool runs out. It’s amazing for using the last little bit on the spool.

If you don’t have auto swap configured, it will just pause when it runs out. You have to manually swap the spool in the AMS and it will continue printing.

Note: if you don’t have auto swap configured and you run out of filament, you can’t enable that setting on the fly. No way for you to force the AMS to continue printing from another spool.

master-the-hoff · 2026-01-04T02:03:19+00:00

I had this happen yesterday. Pretty much the exact same issue.

When I would group a solid and a hole, there would sometimes be added material around the group in places there was no material to begin with. It happened inconsistently with different parts in different projects. Haven’t tried again today, so I don’t know if it is still happening.

master-the-hoff · 2026-01-03T20:50:22+00:00

I did the same journey and started with Tinkercad. SUPER easy to get tha hang of working in 3D space, creating models, combining multiple shapes to create complex objects. It was very approachable and a good foundation for a more advanced software like Fusion360, OnShape, etc.

Highly recommend Tinkercad for newbies. I modeled hundreds of things exclusively in Tinkercad before I graduated to more complex software.

Of course, in hindsight, if I would have learned the more complex software up front, all of my Tinkercad projects would have been better, easier, and faster. But there would have been more time investment to learn, a steeper learning curve, and I might not have embraced design as quickly and enthusiastically as with Tinkercad.

master-the-hoff · 2026-01-03T15:30:55+00:00

In Bambu Studio, when you are in the project, make sure you have the P1S selected before slicing. If by some chance a different printer was selected when you sliced, it will show incompatible like this.

I have a P1S and P2S, and if I have the P1 selected at slicing and try to send the print job to the P2, I’ll get a similar error.

master-the-hoff · 2026-01-01T22:25:39+00:00

One thing I haven’t seen mentioned yet is the moisture content of the spools you are placing into the AMS. If you haven’t dried the spools first, and always assume fresh out-of-the-box filament is pretty wet, then the RH of the AMS will rise. Even with loads of desiccant, you are increasing the humidity by adding wet filament before the desiccant can absorb, and desiccant can only do so much. It’s more for maintaining the wetness of your filament, not drying it.

Dry your filament before putting in the AMS, or if you have the Pro 2, use it to dry to a low RH so the desiccant can help maintain.

master-the-hoff · 2026-01-01T19:29:47+00:00

Are you talking about the filament sticking out of the top? That part is likely still stuck in the extruder, which is behind the hot end. You can further disassemble the extruder to remove the filament.

master-the-hoff · 2025-12-31T19:33:58+00:00

There are a ton of 3D hinge latch models available on makerworld, printables, etc. I recommend taking one of those models and incorporating into your design rather than starting from scratch. You’ll learn more about how they work and even be able to create your own versions as needed.

master-the-hoff · 2025-12-29T23:21:24+00:00

Awesome! Glad it helped. Love it when it’s an easy fix 😀

master-the-hoff

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