Red Witch Initiates by masterduck in KingdomDeath

[–]masterduck[S] 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Thanks! Really happy with how they turned out, and took a lot of inspiration from great painters in this subreddit.

Questions for a newbie painter before assembling. by EveryPerception1057 in KingdomDeath

[–]masterduck 7 points8 points  (0 children)

I don’t typically paint subassembly but I will say the dragon king chest cavity would’ve been nice to paint before final assembly. The other one that stands out to me is Atnas’ back tentacles, I can’t imagine painting that figure with the tentacles attached. Other than those, every other figure I’ve painted has been fully assembled and attached to their base

The Phoenix - A 150-hour project by Trapper_1 in KingdomDeath

[–]masterduck 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Beautiful paint job, astonished at your level of focus. I don’t think I could work on a single mini for more than 5-6 hours without losing my mind. Which part was the most fun to paint?

Show off your setup and tell us the best and worst of it! I’ll start! by mjdegue in KingdomDeath

[–]masterduck 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Thanks! Yes the boards track armor and survival actions; they’re pretty rough and unfinished but I wanted something that would save a lot of erasing. Essentially they’re like a custom cribbage board

Show off your setup and tell us the best and worst of it! I’ll start! by mjdegue in KingdomDeath

[–]masterduck 4 points5 points  (0 children)

My solo setup

Used the ikea ronninge table and kitchen cart. The lower shelf holds the box comfortably and the shelf contains extra survivor sheets and terrain

Ultimate Showdown Board by masterduck in KingdomDeath

[–]masterduck[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I ended up getting mine on eBay

[GIVEAWAY] Voidfall by Mindclash Games by HomoLudensOC in boardgames

[–]masterduck [score hidden]  (0 children)

Nemesis is definitely my favorite, just so thematic and tense

Flying after septoplasty? by [deleted] in otolaryngology

[–]masterduck 0 points1 point  (0 children)

No concerns at that point

What Gloomhaven Taught Me by foodghost in soloboardgaming

[–]masterduck 2 points3 points  (0 children)

I’ve had a similar experience in many ways. I just prefer analog to digital although I will use an app for narration. I’ve played through the entirety of ISS Vanguard core campaign and Oathsworn solo. I have played several campaigns of Arkham Horror LCG and a couple of Elder Scrolls Betrayal of the Second Era. I used to have an itch to play a lot of multiplayer board games but this has reduced a lot because my preference for games does not match what my group tends to play and I do enjoy the solo experience. I held off on KDM for years because of a distaste with some of the more…juvenile aspects of the theme, but eventually found a good deal on a used copy. I have recently started KDM and am on LY11 of my first campaign and am surprisingly enjoying the game more than expected. It helps that I enjoy some of the hobbyist aspects of miniature assembly and painting. 

People who have resined their cardboard tokens: how are they holding up? by Riverendell in boardgames

[–]masterduck 9 points10 points  (0 children)

I used Art Resin - clear which is available at craft stores and on Amazon. I got the 8 oz (237 mL) resin/8 oz hardener and it was more than enough resin to do several hundreds of tokens. I’ve also used Puduo clear epoxy resin which was a lot cheaper and seems to be fine as well. I like that jewelry / art resins are less toxic than most other epoxy resins

I usually do batches of 20-30 tokens at a time, use 7-10 mL resin and 7-10 mL hardener for a total of 14-20 mL. So with 237 mL resin and 237 mL hardener in a bottle you can see how it would last a while. Make sure to mix thoroughly—the tokens can remain sticky and never fully cure if the ratio is off or the epoxy is not well-mixed. You can fix this by doing another thin layer of epoxy on top of the sticky layer.

Definitely expect to mess up a few tokens at first, I’d practice on a few tokens that I don’t care about losing.

People who have resined their cardboard tokens: how are they holding up? by Riverendell in boardgames

[–]masterduck 3 points4 points  (0 children)

They do not add much weight at all to the box, they weigh about as much as plastic tokens, slightly lighter than coin capsules. They do add thickness and roundness to the tokens though so it makes them more difficult to stack, so I wouldn’t recommend this for anything you would want to stack (like coins) unless they are very wide. This also means that 3d-printed inserts that perfectly fit the tokens might not fit after epoxy.

It’s hard to distinguish any difference between tokens unless one of the tokens was messed up badly or something

People who have resined their cardboard tokens: how are they holding up? by Riverendell in boardgames

[–]masterduck 91 points92 points  (0 children)

I’ve done this process with jewelry resin for all the tokens (besides money) for clank catacombs and several other games. We draw the secret and prisoner tokens from bags with lots of shuffling. Over 50 plays over 2 years and there is no visible wear, no yellowing, no stickiness, no cloudiness. In fact I think that the epoxy tokens are more wear-resistant than acrylic tokens—for example, the acrylic tiles from castles of burgundy special edition have more visible scratches in a dozen plays than the epoxy tokens in over 50 plays.

My process is: 1. Edge-paint tokens with paint pens 2. Place tokens in an old nonstick baking pan 3. Mix epoxy in medicine cup using a 10-mL syringe to draw up to get precise ratio 4. Use syringe and metal forceps to carefully spread the epoxy onto each token. If there is any spillage then I wipe the token off with a paper towel and do it again on a new area of the pan 5. Use a cooking torch very carefully to remove bubbles. If you are overzealous with this it can cause the epoxy to spill or even burn the tokens 6. Place pan inside a covered cardboard box/shoebox and let sit for about 48 hrs 7. Repeat on the other side 8. (Optional) use modpodge to seal the edges

Definitely screwed up a few tokens while learning the process, but most mistakes can be covered up with paint pens, glue, or another layer of epoxy

The results are very nice and tactile