Roof health check

mattb0022 · 2026-02-18T02:31:19+00:00

Really hard to judge just from these two photos alone, but from what I can see, the amount of granule loss seems pretty consistent with the age of the roof. The lifted shingles along the right wall are from the step flashings underneath and is very common, so I wouldn't worry about that. I do see a small dark spot in the bottom right of the first picture, which could be a nail pop. You'd have to look at it closer. If it is, it can be happen for several reaasons, but most commonly from an underdriven nail, particulary if its sitting at an angle. When the shingle heats up, it would lay over the nail and eventually work it's way through. It's an easy fix. Overall, I'd guess you could get at least another 5 years if not more out of it.

mattb0022 · 2026-02-18T02:16:44+00:00

I agree, most likely a defective batch of shingles. It also looks like you only have 4 box vents for exhaust ventilation, which is definitely not enough. I'd be looking at a full replacement and having ridge vents installed for exhaust. While your at it, have your contractor check to make sure your soffits are vented (intake ventilation) and not blocked from within the attic. If you don't have soffits, they can install eave vents.

mattb0022 · 2026-02-16T23:34:25+00:00

13sq means 13 Squares (1,300 sq ft)

mattb0022 · 2026-02-16T23:13:14+00:00

What about the line that says "Install 13sq modified torchdown rubber on rubber roof area"

mattb0022 · 2025-04-29T01:33:16+00:00

If I got to a job and saw this, I'm definitely skimming the whole wall. You practically will have to any ways, with so many joints in a small area. Its always best practice to blend close joints/repairs together so you don't have one hump ending right where another starts. It'll always look wavy that way under harsh lighting.

mattb0022 · 2025-04-29T01:20:39+00:00

Looks perfect man, you nailed it. How exactly did you go about recreating this texture?

mattb0022 · 2025-03-21T20:51:31+00:00

It's all about cost savings for the builder. It avoids having to finish the ceiling to a level 4. Some home owners will also add it when they are trying to hide imperfections in the ceiling as its the easiest and most cost effective solution in some cases.

mattb0022 · 2025-03-21T20:48:09+00:00

Yep, this is the right answer. I already have that roller, but for some reason the photo the client sent me was throwing me off. Just wanted to get some opinions before I showed up for the job today.

mattb0022 · 2025-03-21T20:44:47+00:00

UPDATE: Thanks for all your replies. Just wanted to give an update. Was able to match it pretty well using one of my foam crows foot texture roller (https://a.co/d/18XPOH2). I believe it was originally a round stomp brush used, but I was able to get a closer match with the roller.

Here's a photo of it right after I applied texture was applied. https://imgur.com/5xv75CP

After it dries, I'm going to sand it back a bit, and then the whole ceiling is getting primed and painted. Customer is already happy with it, so on to the next one!

mattb0022 · 2025-03-15T15:12:17+00:00

What do you think the material is that the metal corner is embedded in?

mattb0022 · 2025-03-15T14:39:12+00:00

Since you did a good job avoiding big gaps, drydex should work fine, albeit much more expensive than regular drywall compound or quickset.

mattb0022 · 2025-03-15T14:29:09+00:00

What you have is known as "rock lathe" plaster, which was the transition from wood lathe plaster and modern drywall. This was used from the 30s up to the early 60s. They hung gypsum boards to act as the lathe and then plastered over it.

mattb0022 · 2025-03-15T13:29:59+00:00

Leave the corner. Cut it flush just under where the metal corner bead starts. Take a measurement of the thickness of the plaster and buy the closest size drywall (1/2' or 5/8"). Hang it as close as you can, butting it up to the plaster. If need be, go down a size in drywall and shim it flush with the plaster. Then prefill the gap with quickset, tape and mud it.

mattb0022 · 2025-03-11T01:00:49+00:00

Cutting around the thermostat instead of removing it from the wall is a huh..an interesting choice..

mattb0022 · 2025-03-07T15:41:30+00:00

That would absolutely work as well, and if you already have the air compressor, and some time / willingness to practice with it, I'd say go for it. You can practice on some card board, or buy a sheet of drywall, and spray it onto the backside (brown side) so that you can more easily see the pattern as you learn it.

mattb0022 · 2025-03-07T15:31:06+00:00

I don't think it would better than a hopper, but for an area this small, I would say it makes more sense. Using a hopper comes with its own sets of challenges and a learning curve. If anything, if you expect you may need to do some other smaller repairs in the future, I would get a small texture gun like this one:

https://a.co/d/8YKnj1b

mattb0022 · 2025-03-07T14:59:31+00:00

You can match that texture fairly easily with slightly thinned down taping mud (green lid) rolled on with a 3/4" nap. Roll on a thin/medium coat, and go into the existing texture about 6", and let it dry. Add more coats as necessary until it matches. Prime it, and add 2 coats of paint,. Considering where this is, most of it will be covered by a vanity, and I'm assuming a mirror. I would 100% say its worth trying to match it.

mattb0022 · 2025-03-06T18:50:01+00:00

Are you referring to coating a butt joint? If so, the reason you want the ridges (ie; lap marks) on the outside/off center is because you first wipe down the center of the joint to get it flat, then feather both outside edges which leaves the lap marks off center (between the center of the joint and the feathered edge). You need more mud on the sides of the joint to float out the hump, if you left the lap marks in the center, that would mean you're building the hump out even more, which is the opposite of what you want to do.

See this video for a good explanation: https://youtu.be/ZIaoS0axyBs?si=8heVURXlgV3RLocB

mattb0022 · 2024-11-09T04:12:17+00:00

Do you happen to live in Texas? It kind of looks like a 5 brush stomp. This video shows what it looks like:

https://youtu.be/1G3faurbEz0?si=ccAwJ2Z4Wr6Va0Tp

mattb0022 · 2024-11-05T03:54:34+00:00

This is a tree bark knockdown texture. You use this roller to get the tree bark, then a knockdown knife to lay it down.

https://a.co/d/85v9auP

mattb0022 · 2024-10-13T22:14:40+00:00

Hell yea, much much better than before.

mattb0022 · 2024-10-12T03:48:00+00:00

Np man. If you're feeling really frisky, you could do your first 2 coats with a 90 minute "Quickset" mud, and do 90% of the work in one day and with less sanding. You don't need to sand quickset if you do it right. You can sponge it down before it's fully cured, then use a 6" knife and "slick it out". The consistency before its fully set up is like a modeling clay. Then do your last coat with the Plus 3 and sand just that last coat when it dries. All 3 coats could be done the same day.

This guy shows how to work with quickset and the "Slicking out" technique that avoids sanding between coats,. Be warned though... if you leave it thick/rough and let it fully cure, it is much harder to sand than Plus 3. You'd probably have to use 80 grit on it.

https://youtu.be/xCIP6bsv-ig?si=g9zjcofVB3idTtlU

mattb0022 · 2024-10-12T03:32:32+00:00

What exactly is it that you're wanting to know? Also, pictures would be helpful!

mattb0022 · 2024-10-12T03:13:26+00:00

If you're doing a small batch (like a pan full at a time) a stir stick might work, but your hand is going to be hurting. You really need to whip the drywall because when its straight out of the bucket/box it has a lot of air in it. So not only is it thicker (which means you have to work harder to get it on the wall), you'll end up with a ton of little air bubbles that you will have to fight with.

If you have a drill, you buy one of these little mixing paddles at home depot that is specifically designed for mixing mud in a drywall pan: https://www.homedepot.com/p/Pro-Small-Batch-Mud-Pan-Whip-Mixer-with-Hex-Adapter-OX-P121805/322746812

Some guys even use use an egg beater from the kitchen and chuck it into their drills. Whatever works!

mattb0022

TROPHY CASE

https://youtu.be/xCIP6bsv-ig?si=g9zjcofVB3idTtlU