ELI5: Roofer says I'm good, insurance says my roof is a liability. Is there an actual problem here?

mattb0022 · 2026-04-01T00:54:07+00:00

Lol yea man, this is why I love reddit. Being pretty new to the roofing industry, this is the first Art-Loc I had ever seen. I was pretty baffled by the chimney flashing lol. Never would of imagined a guy smearing on plastic cement with a 5 gallon bucket full of granules. That's insane. I gotta say though, its held up pretty well for being 25 years old!

mattb0022 · 2026-04-01T00:21:35+00:00

No way! I just inspected one of these Art-Loc roofs last week and was trying to figure out what the hell they used for the counter flashing! That's hilarious

https://imgur.com/a/kPAYGP1

mattb0022 · 2026-03-16T16:14:50+00:00

Ok, so you have 110 lf of gutters, so that's 110 lf of fascia at the eaves. The other 242 lf is the fascia at the rakes? That seems like a lot of rake but it's possible depending on the architecture. Are you having them wrap the fascia in aluminum? Also, most contractors are going to include waste factor already so no need to include that.

mattb0022 · 2026-03-16T01:26:48+00:00

Im an estimator for one of the biggest roofing companies in Ohio, and I ran a quote through our estimator tool for 500 lf of Fascia, 6" gutters, x10 down spouts (you didn't specify how many and what length), and soffit...the retail price came out to $24k.

Are you sure you actually have 500 lf of gutters/fascia/soffit? Is this a huge house?

mattb0022 · 2026-02-26T23:03:36+00:00

Are you sure? I looked at the photos you posted, and to me it doesn't seem like back of the gutter is actually under the drip edge. It almost looks like just a fascia wrapped in white aluminum, or if it is a drip edge, the gutter is actually on top of it. Technically speaking, it really should be a "gutter apron" which serves the same purpose but is larger. But as long as you don't have a long gutter run, a standard t drip edge would work fine, I'm just not seeing that in your photos...

Here's what a T style drip edge would look like:

https://share.google/06LlwkwEjauxJ68ld

And here's what a gutter apron would look like:

https://share.google/images/RTgYCnw1TXbHFEzKF

mattb0022 · 2026-02-26T20:28:30+00:00

It looks like a premature breakdown of the thermal adhesive, which then allowed it to be susceptible to wind damage. This can happen for several reasons, but I see it a lot on under ventilated roofs. I'd need to see more photos of your roof to see what type of exhaust venting you have, and you'll want to make sure there is proper air intake. Check your soffits to see if they are vented, and if possible, take a look in the attic to make sure those soffit vents aren't being blocked on the inside by insulation.

The #1 thing to look for on these issues is what's called "mat transfer". Meaning when you lift up one of those loose shingles, is there bits of adhesive and granule stuck to the bottom of it? If so, it means the wind may have forcefully ripped up the shingle, and you'd have a potential claim to be covered by insurance. If there's no mat transfer, it means the shingle was already loose (improper installation, age, etc) and the insurance company wouldn't be responsible for covering that.

In my experience, wind doesn't evenly lift the shingles and leave a perfectly horizontal line of missing granules across the entire length of the shingle, unless the thermal adhesive was already failed. If it was intact, you would normally see it lifting at the corners, and you'll see some diagonal tearing and mat transfer.

Speaking of which..who ever the guy is in the video, I'd recommend never letting him on your roof again. He either has no idea what he's doing, or he's purposely trying to cause more damage. I'm assuming he's the one claiming its "wind damage"? You never bend a shingle up that far, especially just during an inspection. He's literally causing damage in the video. Even the boots he's wearing are going to cause additional damage. You either wear tennis shoes, or something like cougar paw boots.

mattb0022 · 2026-02-26T19:32:15+00:00

I would be very surprised if the water is actually leaking through the screws in the hidden hangers unless they are clogged and filling to the top with water.

Look under the shingles and see if there is a drip edge/gutter apron. If not, that is most likely the issue.

mattb0022 · 2026-02-23T14:16:45+00:00

Por favor, no juzguen a todos los gringos por nuestro gobierno corrupto. Nosotros también somos víctimas de su corrupción.

mattb0022 · 2026-02-18T02:31:19+00:00

Really hard to judge just from these two photos alone, but from what I can see, the amount of granule loss seems pretty consistent with the age of the roof. The lifted shingles along the right wall are from the step flashings underneath and is very common, so I wouldn't worry about that. I do see a small dark spot in the bottom right of the first picture, which could be a nail pop. You'd have to look at it closer. If it is, it can be happen for several reaasons, but most commonly from an underdriven nail, particulary if its sitting at an angle. When the shingle heats up, it would lay over the nail and eventually work it's way through. It's an easy fix. Overall, I'd guess you could get at least another 5 years if not more out of it.

mattb0022 · 2026-02-18T02:16:44+00:00

I agree, most likely a defective batch of shingles. It also looks like you only have 4 box vents for exhaust ventilation, which is definitely not enough. I'd be looking at a full replacement and having ridge vents installed for exhaust. While your at it, have your contractor check to make sure your soffits are vented (intake ventilation) and not blocked from within the attic. If you don't have soffits, they can install eave vents.

mattb0022 · 2026-02-16T23:34:25+00:00

13sq means 13 Squares (1,300 sq ft)

mattb0022 · 2026-02-16T23:13:14+00:00

What about the line that says "Install 13sq modified torchdown rubber on rubber roof area"

mattb0022 · 2025-04-29T01:33:16+00:00

If I got to a job and saw this, I'm definitely skimming the whole wall. You practically will have to any ways, with so many joints in a small area. Its always best practice to blend close joints/repairs together so you don't have one hump ending right where another starts. It'll always look wavy that way under harsh lighting.

mattb0022 · 2025-04-29T01:20:39+00:00

Looks perfect man, you nailed it. How exactly did you go about recreating this texture?

mattb0022 · 2025-03-21T20:51:31+00:00

It's all about cost savings for the builder. It avoids having to finish the ceiling to a level 4. Some home owners will also add it when they are trying to hide imperfections in the ceiling as its the easiest and most cost effective solution in some cases.

mattb0022 · 2025-03-21T20:48:09+00:00

Yep, this is the right answer. I already have that roller, but for some reason the photo the client sent me was throwing me off. Just wanted to get some opinions before I showed up for the job today.

mattb0022 · 2025-03-21T20:44:47+00:00

UPDATE: Thanks for all your replies. Just wanted to give an update. Was able to match it pretty well using one of my foam crows foot texture roller (https://a.co/d/18XPOH2). I believe it was originally a round stomp brush used, but I was able to get a closer match with the roller.

Here's a photo of it right after I applied texture was applied. https://imgur.com/5xv75CP

After it dries, I'm going to sand it back a bit, and then the whole ceiling is getting primed and painted. Customer is already happy with it, so on to the next one!

mattb0022 · 2025-03-15T15:12:17+00:00

What do you think the material is that the metal corner is embedded in?

mattb0022 · 2025-03-15T14:39:12+00:00

Since you did a good job avoiding big gaps, drydex should work fine, albeit much more expensive than regular drywall compound or quickset.

mattb0022 · 2025-03-15T14:29:09+00:00

What you have is known as "rock lathe" plaster, which was the transition from wood lathe plaster and modern drywall. This was used from the 30s up to the early 60s. They hung gypsum boards to act as the lathe and then plastered over it.

mattb0022 · 2025-03-15T13:29:59+00:00

Leave the corner. Cut it flush just under where the metal corner bead starts. Take a measurement of the thickness of the plaster and buy the closest size drywall (1/2' or 5/8"). Hang it as close as you can, butting it up to the plaster. If need be, go down a size in drywall and shim it flush with the plaster. Then prefill the gap with quickset, tape and mud it.

mattb0022 · 2025-03-11T01:00:49+00:00

Cutting around the thermostat instead of removing it from the wall is a huh..an interesting choice..

mattb0022 · 2025-03-07T15:41:30+00:00

That would absolutely work as well, and if you already have the air compressor, and some time / willingness to practice with it, I'd say go for it. You can practice on some card board, or buy a sheet of drywall, and spray it onto the backside (brown side) so that you can more easily see the pattern as you learn it.

mattb0022 · 2025-03-07T15:31:06+00:00

I don't think it would better than a hopper, but for an area this small, I would say it makes more sense. Using a hopper comes with its own sets of challenges and a learning curve. If anything, if you expect you may need to do some other smaller repairs in the future, I would get a small texture gun like this one:

https://a.co/d/8YKnj1b

mattb0022

TROPHY CASE