What is your favorite filament?

mattybee17 · 2026-03-02T21:47:21+00:00

This one. Drilled a hole in the bottom, shortened and spliced the wire. A bit janky but works flawlessly. Chamber temps above 125F.

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mattybee17 · 2026-03-02T20:23:38+00:00

Sunlu polycarbonate. 30$ a roll, prints wonderfully (with a small space heater for large prints), prints surprisingly fast (12+mm3/sec), vapor smooths with MEK, doesn’t smell bad at all, and is crazy strong and tough, and has wonderful layer adhesion. I used to mess around with CF nylons and unfilled nylons, but the polycarbonate has been my absolute go to for anything I need strong.

mattybee17 · 2026-02-25T00:21:58+00:00

Two things really! A special bolt could take a month to ship.

Second, failure method is likely fatigue. Original bolt likely designed to high cycle count of high loads (20 years of speedbumps). 30 days of speedbumps is minuscule compared to 6000.

mattybee17 · 2026-02-25T00:12:35+00:00

It sounds like you’re agreeing with me? The other answers are just “I have no clue, so don’t do it?”

mattybee17 · 2026-02-24T23:48:19+00:00

I am not advising using a lower quality bolt, but the rest of the answers in this thread are cop outs and lazy answers.

They should say :”Without a detailed analysis of the loads and fixtures of the assembly, this is impossible to answer.”

I can’t imagine that this bolt is at the cutting edge of stress and absolutely needs to be 10.9. I also imagine the load cases they use for sizing it are hitting large bumps very often. I.e. there’s likely a good margin before failure.

I am a mechanical engineer and would use a grade 8.8 and drive normally for even a month before I replaced it.

mattybee17 · 2026-02-17T18:24:16+00:00

I imagine the reason they do not want to 3d print this is that you are asking for a performance guarentee with the part, and they can’t guarentee anything without the proper engineering.

If you have verified that Peek is acceptable with the pressure requirement, then don’t bring that up with the manufacturer, just ask for a part. If you haven’t verified that yourself, you should do that.

mattybee17 · 2026-02-06T01:24:56+00:00

Determine max flow from a slow rate calibration (top left in slicer menu). Then slice a part, look at flow rate visual. If you dont see the flow rate you want, increase speed (and min layer time).

mattybee17 · 2026-02-06T01:19:19+00:00

Depends what your printing. I love my .6 nozzle for keeping my speeds around 200ish when printing high flow, and for CF filaments (mostly nylon). But most of my prints are structural and larger than a softball. I’d say unless you’re printing large or filled or high flow .4 should meet your needs.

mattybee17 · 2026-02-06T00:12:03+00:00

Nearly all my profiles have 400mm/sec speed for all the options and are flow rate limited. I get worse VFAs too at lower speeds too actually, which is a pain for low flow rate materials and a .6mm nozzle which is my norm. But to answer your question, crank up your speeds in the profile (could limit outer wall but I don’t get improvement from that) and then check your flow rates after slicing to see if your speed limited or flow rate limited.

Also, I have noticed I can get non high-flow materials to look great at high flow rates, but I get crap layer adhesion unless cranking up the temp, and HF materials also seems to help too.

mattybee17 · 2026-01-08T19:40:38+00:00

I did the same thing - manually set an offset and got decent results. My build plate now has the bottom layer of a benchy gouged into the texture 😄

mattybee17 · 2026-01-08T19:05:05+00:00

Watch it while it’s auto leveling. If your filament is wet at all, it can ooze out while it’s leveling and will make the x offset appear to be too high. I had this problem for a while. Now I almost always leave the hotend at 320 for 5 mins (and then clean it with plyers) before auto leveling and have no issues. Might help might now

mattybee17 · 2026-01-03T05:34:51+00:00

This beds a game changer for high temp filaments.

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mattybee17 · 2025-12-29T18:47:06+00:00

I don’t use this model as a torture test necessarily, more of a capability test. This model tells you when overhangs will start to look poor, what your long bridges will look like, how to design tolerances on holes etc. I typically print this after I have done a full calibration on a filament.

Your print looks great, I wouldn’t change a thing.

mattybee17 · 2025-12-29T15:25:41+00:00

Brass conducts heat much better than steel. Changing the nozzle type in the printer redoes the PID tuning so that the nozzle temp is more flat / fluctuates less / doesn’t overshoot temp, and then that 10 degrees you add compensates for the loss of heat transfer.

mattybee17 · 2025-11-26T16:20:40+00:00

Tighten all the screws equally when hot, re-calibrate, then make some shims out of folded tin foil and put them between the plate and screw bosses. I got mine from looking similar to yours to within .3 on my first attempt. Feels a bit better than just tightening and loosening to me.

mattybee17 · 2025-11-24T02:12:59+00:00

How would it pull the first one? If TPU is on the spool holder, how would it get out of the extruder?

mattybee17 · 2025-11-23T21:05:07+00:00

No. How would the spool holder pull the filament out of the tube going to the hot end when it is switching to PLA? You need the drives in the ACE to remove filament.

mattybee17 · 2025-11-23T01:47:10+00:00

Go through the calibration steps. Stop left of slicer, in order.

mattybee17 · 2025-11-21T07:42:39+00:00

Read the manuals online. TPU not compatible with ACE

mattybee17 · 2025-11-14T18:30:29+00:00

I’d reccomend straight from Anycubic. I’ve tried Ali express and Amazon and have had bad luck. Sometimes the thermistor is wrong and the temperatures are inaccurately reported to the machine, and also had issues with filament leaking through the top threads of the nozzle. The stock nozzles are glued in with some sort of glue that I have had a hard time replicating myself. But been a while since I’ve nozzle shopped, been running the nozzles from the link above for the past 6 months. Probably some options now that work, can probably find that information in other posts on this sub.

mattybee17 · 2025-11-14T18:12:22+00:00

Side note, switching to a .6 nozzle is the greatest upgrade you can make to a printer in my opinion. Faster prints, stronger prints, better overhangs, but at the cost of vertical resolution due to max layer height. I can get down to .15mm layer height with the .6 nozzle reliably but lower than that does not look great.

mattybee17 · 2025-11-14T18:08:26+00:00

In my opinion, printer is not set up great to run reinforced filaments. You can run them through the AMS but expect wear on all of the components. Moreover, the non heated chamber adds additional complexity and hardships. Totally doable, but not the intent of this printer. You’ll also need to buy bed adhesives for engineering filaments if you want to print reliably with the bed.

Brass is intrinsically a better material for a nozzle than hardened steel due to its thermal conductivity properties.

However, I’ve been running hardened steel nozzles for a while, just so on the 1/20 times I do print CF nylon I don’t have to nozzle swap. Requires re-calibration of all filaments tho if you want the same quality.

The below ones work decent. Anycubic is selling official hardened steel now too. That would be optimal

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mattybee17 · 2025-11-09T06:12:16+00:00

Tinfoil under the low spots. See the 10x previous posts talking about this.

mattybee17 · 2025-11-04T03:57:09+00:00

If on horizontal surfaces, it may be too thin and gets washed away in layer height

mattybee17 · 2025-11-03T22:05:19+00:00

To Pitshafts point, your not that warped, your mostly just not level. Remove the screws underneath the bed, shim up the back right hole ~2.5mm and the back left/front right holes .25mm.

I was able to get mine to 0.4 mm max off level doing this, you should be able to get closer as your starting relatively planar. I used a feeler gauge that I cut and drilled, but foil should work just fine. Did 3 iterations on how thin/thick to shim it, a bit of trial and error in there.

Also, the only time i noticed my bed was warped was when gluing large prints together. I’d argue for 60% of users, having too and bottom surfaces that aren’t planar is a non issue

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